Additives used in Making Wax Candles

Additives are used to soften, harden, or change the opacity and colour qualities of your candles.

Stearic Acid (stearine) In two forms - an animal fat by-product, or a vegetable based fat, most commonly made from the palm. I do not know the difference in the results you will get (if any) using either form. Add 3 Tablespoons to each 1/2 kilo of wax you are melting (3 Tablespoons to each pound). Stir in until melted, and pour your wax when ready. You colours will appear pastel and the candles will be slower burning because the melt point of the wax has been raised. This may not be desirable in a container candle. Container candles require a lower melting point wax to burn off all the wax, and not leave wax around the sides of the container. Hence, I have found that it is better not to use hardening additives when making container candles.

Candle History

Lustre crystals. A wax polymer. They make your candle burn twice as long as plain paraffin wax candles. The candles will turn out more opaque, and your colours will appear brighter. The crystals have to be melted separately from the wax, and take a very high temperature to melt. When they are melted, add them to your melted wax and blend well. Again, I have found this additive not suitable for container candles.

Clear crystals. Also a wax polymer. These have the same effects as lustre crystals, but they won't change the opacity of the wax. Melt clear crystals separately and add to high melt point wax to form an overdip formula that is nice and hard, and almost clear.

Vybar forces the paraffin to form smaller crystals and provides an interlacing network to the paraffin's crystalline matrix. There are three positive results: 1) the oil holding capacity of the paraffin is increased, 2) the oil and dye molecules are anchored in place, 3) the denser crystalline structure is much stronger and resistant to flaws which appear as star bursts or mottling. Another beneficial effect is that the Vybar will also bind up any unwanted water molecules which may be causing problems. 1% Vybar is a starting point for experimentation assuming you are using scent in your paraffin. This will add whiteness to your wax which may or may not be desirable. It will add a creamy surface and consistency to the finished candle. Vybar will not raise the melt point of the wax so they should burn about the same as before. Too much vybar can inhibit scent and cause a wave like ripple effect on the surfaces of your candle. So if you are having problems getting a strongly scented candle, try cutting back on the vybar. There are two different vybars. 103 for moulded candles. 260 for container candles.


Mineral Oil: To get the mottling effect. 3 Tablespoons per 2 kilos (1 lb) of paraffin wax. Pour the wax at 70 degrees C (160 F) and don't use a water bath to cool the candles.

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Mottling additive in flake form. Add 1 to 4% of this product for large crystalline effect on candles. I have never tried this additive, and do not know what it is made from, but someone once said it works to stop smoking candles, caused by the use of lots of mineral oil and scent oils when trying to achieve the mottled effect.

Microcrystaline waxes come in at lest 8 forms (that I know of, there may be more). They range in melt points from 165 degrees to 240 degrees and are used for several reasons. Primarily as an additive to standard paraffin to increase or decrease melt point.
The sticky wax or wax glue you hear about is a micro wax.
Micro 180 seems to be the most often used one and is generally the one that is meant when people refer to micro wax. It is a hardener and usually extend the burn time of the candles they are used in. Some are used to make wax more workable for hand moulding and some help with layer adhesion for hand dipping and over dipping.