How do you set up for a corner? If you’re like most amateurs, you don’t. However, if you take the time to notice the techniques of the pros you’ll see that they make every second count, including their time in the air. Instead of going off a jump and straight into the "Dead Sailor" position like most goons, riders that know what they’re doing position themselves and their bikes for the landing and beyond.

Simple things like changing direction off the face of a jump or turning in the air can shave precious time off your laps by giving you a more direct route, and at the same time help keep all of your precious momentum going in the direction you want it to go—away from your competition.

We recently cornered new Team Honda rider Kevin Windham at Glen Helen while he was preparing for the upcoming Nationals and asked him his advice for making the most of air time. Windham is a multi-time National and Supercross race winner, but perhaps his most qualifying credential is the fact that he is the last man to beat Ricky Carmichael in a National moto. So without further ado, here’s K-Dub…

OFF THE LIP

"Changing your bike’s direction in the air is something you need to be able to do to go fast. Oftentimes there will be jumps with corners directly past their landings, so if you turn the bike while in the air and land with your wheels in the direction of the upcoming corner, you’ll have one less movement to make on the ground. This will keep your lines smooth and fluid and also keep your bike traveling in a direct and straight path with the shortest route.

"On a jump like the tabletop I’m doing in the photos, I leave the lip with my bike leaning over to the side that the upcoming corner direction goes. It’s important to familiarize yourself with the track and know exactly what follows every jump; many times, the jump face will block your view. If you know the track well, though, you’ll know ahead of time which way to turn in the air.

"As I leave the ground, I actually counter steer off the face. This causes my bike to gyroscopically turn in the direction I want it to go. Once in the air, by having the bike leaned over off the face and steering away from the turn, my bike whips around and sets me up perfectly for the next corner. It‘s kind of hard to see in the photos, but I actually hit the landing at close to forty degrees, to the right. This means that I am already beginning the turn the second my wheels hit dirt."

KICKED OUT

"Another more advanced way to help shave a little time off your laps is to stick your leg out in the air. If you think about it, a corner as tight as the one I’m about to hit will require me to take a foot off the pegs for balance and stability. Though it seems like a minimal task, removing my foot from the peg takes a second of my time and a sliver of my concentration. I scrub speed by using my "down time" in the air, where I can’t accelerate anyway, and take my foot off the peg before I even hit the corner.

K-Dub showing off his silky-smooth style. Click the image on the main page for a larger version.  credit: Garth Milan

"Like I said, it doesn’t sound like much, but it all adds up. Not only will you save some time and energy, you’ll also make your and your bike’s motion that much smoother and more fluid. This is a fairly advanced technique and a bit tougher than simply turning your bike in the air, so be careful. It’s easy to catch your foot on the ground and twist your ankle or knee when landing.

"With all of these little tricks, the most important thing to do is to look as far forward as you can. My best advice is to look towards the corner in the air, pick your line, and then look forward to the next obstacle. Always look ahead and don’t waste time debating your line choice. Once you pick your path, stick to it and don’t second-guess yourself."

We asked famed wrencher Chad Watts why cable lubrication is so important to a mechanic stud like himself, and Watts told us a number of things that can happen to a poorly maintained set of controls and cables, all of which could lead to a very unhappy Floridian redhead.

"If your cables aren't lubed right, they get dry, which causes them to drag. Sometimes they'll get so bad that they'll stick, which can cause them to bind up and make your clutch slip or your throttle stick. Cables can also start fraying on the ends, leading to even more problems and potential DNFs."

So how often does Watts recommend cable lubrication and inspection? "That really depends on the situation. In a muddy or sandy race, I lube R.C.'s cables every moto. In dry circumstances, I still lube them every race, and usually replace them after every couple of races."

Watts admits that this is above and beyond the call of duty for the average weekend warrior. "Most racers who aren't at a level like Ricky's don't have to go to such extremes. Once a month is good for most guys, but the more you lube it the better it will feel."

Replacing your cables isn't something that needs to be done as often as you might think, either. "Amateurs shouldn't need to replace cables very often. I would go until they are really kinked or starting to fray before replacement on an ordinary guy's bike."

In fact, Chad told TWMX that the longer you wait to replace a cable, the better feel you will get. New cables are harder to break in, and they won't have as easy of a pull until they have been loosened up a bit. Thus, Watts said the main reason to ever even replace a cable on your bike is for safety's sake.

Required Tools: Seal puller or flat-head screwdriver (poor man’s seal puller), scribe or small screwdriver, 10mm and 12mm box-end wrenches, ratchet and socket set for rear wheel removal (this can vary depending on your bike's manufacturer), and rubber mallet (optional).

STEP 1: While every step in this procedure is on the easy side as far as wrenching is concerned, the first step is probably the easiest, so don’t screw it up. Take your rear axle nut off with a 24mm wrench, or whatever your bike calls for, remove the rear axle, and pull the real wheel completely off the bike.

STEP 2: Once you have the rear wheel off you need to first remove the wheel spacers, and then using your seal puller or a flat head screwdriver, get up underneath the seal from the bottom side and pull the seal out. At this point you can inspect for any damage to the seal. If there is damage, you should be able to clearly recognize it. 

STEP 3: Now that the seal’s off, grab a scribe or a small screwdriver and pop the dust seal off of the bearing’s outer surface. Again, it’s easiest to do this by approaching the seal from the inside diameter (I.D.) of the seal cover. Inspect the dust seal for any damage, and clean off all excess dirt and grease.

STEP 4: Next, wipe off the old grease and dirt on the ball bearings. Inspect to be sure that the individual bearings are in place and moving freely. Once you’re satisfied that all is well, liberally reapply waterproof grease onto the bearings with either a flux brush or your finger. Once you have it completely full of grease, usually flush to the bearings themselves, push the dust seal cover back onto the bearing, and any excess grease will squeeze out. The dust seal should pop easily into place. During this process the cover will help to push grease further into the bearing for ultimate lubrication.

STEP 5: It’s now time to press the bearing seal back into place. If you didn’t already in step two, inspect your seal to make sure it’s not torn. Also, check to make sure the spring is still around the lip of the seal, and wipe out and clean all old grease and dirt thoroughly. With your waterproof grease, apply a thin coat around the seal’s outside diameter (O.D.) to help make it slide into the hub a little more easily. To press the seal into place, start by using your thumbs. More often than not it will press in smoothly, but if needed, a small rubber mallet can be used to tap it in flush. Before you put your axle back in it’s also good to put a thin layer of grease on the I.D. of the seal as well. This will allow the axle and wheel spacers to move into place smoothly. 

**Repeat steps two through five for the other side of the hub**

STEP 6: Now that the bearings are cleaned and greased and the wheel is ready to slap back on, you’ll want to take the axle and clean it with contact cleaner, getting all of the excess dirt and grease off of it.

STEP 7: Using a brush or your finger, re-apply grease to the shank of the axle as well as the threads, which will keep the nut working properly. Put your wheel back up into place, slide your axle back in, and just barely snug the axle nut for the time being.

STEP 8: At this point you can check for chain tension to see if your chain is too loose or too tight. A simple measuring guide to use is your fingers. For a normal person, a three-finger gap between your swingarm and chain, just behind the chain block, should be perfect. But for people with big sausage fingers like me, two fingers is more accurate. Use the indicators on your swingarm and your axle blocks to make sure that everything is lined up and square on both sides. Finally, before you tighten your axle, be sure to slide a towel or wrench between the chain and the sprocket in order to push the wheel and chain blocks up against the jam nuts. Other than that, spray on a little chain lube and you should be good to go.