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             This piece is intended to be a decorated cloth to cover my square hand basket. I have not found any examples of embroidery used to make linens for this use but I enjoy knot work in it's many forms and so chose this project for it's esthetic value.

            The knot work for this project was taken from a commercially available pattern book. There is much precedence for an embroiderer using patterns that were pre-drawn onto the ground fabric. If you look closely at some medieval embroidery, you can see the lines that were drawn on the fabric for the embroiderer to follow. (3) A good example is in the book by Kay Staniland, "Medieval Craftsmen, Embroiderers".  Where the stitching has worn away you can see the design on the ground fabric underneath. (1) You can also see the design drawn on the fabric of The Antependium with Passion Scenes (2) that is housed at the Musee Dupuy in Toulouse. When the piece had 19th century repairs that covered the original medieval embroidery, removed, detailed split stitch and the drawings of the pattern were found underneath.

            Knot work as a design form has been found as early as the 7th century in many cultures of Europe. It can be seen in Spanish manuscript (4), Celtic art, and Viking metal work, to name just a few. One of the most well known examples is the Book of Kells that was produced at the abbey of Kells about 850 AD. Its pages are filled with knot work of all shapes and sizes. The Tara broach is an example of knot work used in jewelry design. This Pseudo-Penanular brooch was covered front and back with knot work and interlaced animals. Knot work similar to what I used in my project can be seen in the Book of Darrow (9). This book is dated to Ireland in the late 7th century.

The materials I have chosen for this project are cotton and linen. Both materials existed in the time frame covered by the SCA but not in the form I am using.  Traditionally this type of needlework might have been worked in silk or wool thread on a pure linen ground fabric. My choice of materials is strictly because I enjoy working on this particular linen/cotton blend fabric.

            Split stitch is a free form embroidery stitch that covers areas of fabric quite well. The stitch (5) is worked by using a sharp needle to bring the thread to the front of the ground fabric and then back down to the back approximately 1/4 of an inch away.  The next step is to once again pierce the fabric from the back at about the center of the previous worked stitch to "Split" this stitch. You then pierce the fabric again and take the thread through to the back 1/4 of an inch ahead, completing the second stitch. Split stitch was used on the Syon Cope, dated about 1300-1320. This stitch was also used on the Bayeux Tapestry, dated around the 12th century.

            The color scheme for the knot work design is inspired by Spanish Illuminations of 9th and 10th century. These show knot work that are a solid tan color and are outlined in a contrasting color. Most examples I saw were a yellow or tan center with a red or black outline. One example is the Madrid Bible, Lives of the Saints,  NAC, 822, folio 22v. It shows the Letter "D" drawn in this color scheme of knot work (4).

    There are many examples of needlework that can be copied stitch for stitch, but I got a special sense of satisfaction in exploring medieval art and developing a project with the knowledge I had gained. I also now have a unique piece that is my own. I recommend that everyone try to embroider a one of a kind project.