LEXCORN

Corn Snake Pantherophis guttatus (formerly Elaphe guttata)

Euprepiophis mandarinus                                  Rat Snake

Mandarina News '08

 

Description

Found in China, North Vietnam, North East India, Taiwan. A small- medium, smooth scaled, snake for the advanced keeper. Many animals are imported into the U.S. & Europe every year & very few of these survive. Captive Bred animals have improved this species reputation as a ‘delicate’ animal. Known to inhabit agricultural areas, preferring higher altitudes & cooler temperatures. A very secretive snake that spends most of its time in burrows searching for its prey of small rodents.

This snake is one of the more spectacular additions to the hobby in recent years. The wild caught specimen exhibits a pale grey background with glossy black diamond saddle markings interspersed with bright yellow. The head displays the bold chevron. Colour variants abound & many are enhanced with selective breeding.

Not a large snake, individuals range from 3’ - 4’, occasionally reaching 5.5’.

 

Average price

£250 single male - £750 pair

Lifespan

Insufficient numbers retained in captivity to qualify.

Size category

Small

Feeding requirements

Hatchlings will, often, refuse food until post-brumated (reduced heating cycle).

Defrost pinkies/mice (or rat pups) of the appropriate size for the animal (1.5 thickest part of the body).

Hatchlings/Yearlings - 5 day feeding schedule

Sub adult/Adult - 7/10 day feeding schedule

Housing requirements

Vivarium - 2’ x 18” x 18” or 3’ x 18” x 18”

(¾ of the adult size of the snake)

Heat mat - to cover 1/3 of the vivarium floor.

Thermostat - Day/Night or Pulse proportional. *Dth: 24C *Ntl: 21C

Furnishings - Hide, Water bowl, substrate (woodshavings, coir),

Individual hide with damp sphagnum moss (when coir not in use), branches & plastic plants (optional). Provide sufficient burrowing material.

Ailments

Captive Bred animals are, ideally, parasite & virus free. Wild caught specimens will require blood & feceal testing by a Reptile Veterinarian.

Wild caught animals do not adapt well to captivity & often refuse to feed with the resulting consequences.

Susceptibility to illness

Respiratory Tract Infections, Mouth Rot, Emaciation. With the exception of the starvation (only relative to w.c. animals) these ailments are, generally, caused by improper environmental conditions (too cold, wet, prolonged stress - provision of thermal gradient absent in enclosure).

Signs of Illness & Stress in Reptiles

Lethargy; Failure to eat over several weeks; Regurgitation; Prolonged soaking in water (may be indicative of parasite infection); Aggression (if, normally, a passive species); Prolonged gaping (open mouth); Loss of muscle tone/strength; Tremors; Abcess/blisters/scabs.

These are signs of an underlying condition. Refer to a qualified Reptile Veterinarian to begin a regime of treatment.

Choosing

Selection of a snake.

Look for an animal with a well developed body for age, no visible cuts or abrasions, clear alert eyes, tongue flicking, no signs of mites or ticks (usually seen in water dish in enclosure; & under chin groove, or visible as small black ‘dots’ on a white animal), no discharge from mouth, clean vent.

Energy

An alert & high-strung species. Will musk if disturbed inappropriately. Most active during evening.

Amount of exercise

A nocturnal species, most active in the late evening & overnight. Provision of a suitable substrate for burrowing & sufficient ‘hides’ are necessary to prevent stress.

Handling of this species is best kept to a minimum. The vivarium should be situated in an area that does not suffer from continual ‘traffic’ (I.e. people passing).

Distress caused if left alone

A snake is a solitary animal by nature. He/she will, actively, search for others of the species during the breeding season. There is no requirement to provide a companion unless you wish to breed the species.

It is advisable to allow each animal its own vivarium to monitor health, feeding & other health care issues.

Ease of transportation

Simple

Provide a ‘fun bin’, Contico box, Faunarium or some such suitable container (with air holes & locking handles) to transport.

Level of aggression

Low

However, they are not a snake that is an ideal pet due to their secretive requirements.

Compatibility with other animals

Not advisable.

Suitability for children

Low

A high-strung species which prefers solitude.

 

 

Hygiene

How we keep our pets can affect our own health.

Cleaning

General removal of debris (food, feceas, urates, blood, saliva etc) which helps reduce the amount of organic matter that contributes to the proliferation of bacteria & disease.

The best method is with hot, soapy water. Followed by a clean rinse which flushes any loose debris away. Complete rinse out by use of sponges, cloths or paper towels. To disinfect (use as manufacturer advises on product), generously apply solution to the clean surfaces with a saturated cloth, sponge or spray bottle. Leave for 10 minutes (15 - 20 is better).

To sterilize - leave solution for 30 minutes (check instructions on product dilution ratio).

Rinse out thoroughly prior to re-introducing reptile to vivarium.

N.B. Never mix Ammonia & Bleach. If using bleach to disinfect utensils, sink, water bowls. Carefully rinse all soap residue as many dishwashing soaps contain ammonia.

A separate set of cleaning equipment should be allocated for animal/reptile use.

Do not use soaps or cleaners which are abrassive, contain pine scents or phenols.

Reptile disinfectants can be purchased through animal supply catalogues or pet stores.

Always instruct children to wash their hands after touching animals or reptiles.

 

*Dth:  (Day Time High)

*Ntl:  (Night Time Low)