A Sea Turtle Adventure!
    


 
A Sea Turtle Adventure!
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My Daily Schedule!

Our daily schedule was posted on a board out in the courtyard.  (See photo)   The first task every morning was to get up and see what your job was for the day.  We all kept our fingers crossed, hoping we would be the ones out on the beach for the night!  WE WANT TURTLES!  Many shifts were assigned such as:

Hatchery, Morning Walk, and Beach Patrol (three beaches:  Ventanas, South and North!)

The daily tides were posted, the times for each shift and the name of the biologist who was accompanying you.

  Just look for your initials!

Daily Schedule posted on patio wall! (includes tides)

My creative Beach Diagram

:

Playa Grande was the largest beach.

Two X's mark the house and the hatchery.

 

We have to walk back and forth to breakfast and dinner everyday--Here's Kike's!

 

                             



Leatherbacks Nesting? Day One!

I was so excited.  My first night and I was going out on the beach.  I told everyone that I was going to see a turtle!  I had been up since 5:30 am and probably was delirious.  I was scheduled to go out at 7pm with Bryan, a biologist who has been at Playa Grande for 4 years. Here he is with a turtle with a satellite tracking device on it! (neato, huh!)  I doused myself in bug repellant (I hate it) and my Earthwatch volunteer t-shirt (required), pants, boots, and a baseball cap.  I carried a red headlamp in my pocket along with a bottle of water.  It was still so hot, but I was ready to go. 

We were heading to North beach. (the best turtle spot).  We hopped in an old, rickety, blue van with windows that wouldn't close and headed to the south end of the beach.  The roads were dusty,dirty and ridden with potholes.  We emerged from the bumpy ride and quickly walked into the woods on darkened paths illuminated only by our headlamps. 

                     

                                                                                                                       Clunky blue van!!

We exited onto the darkened beach.  The sky had a million stars.  We began walking North toward the hatchery.  Now, mind you, it is pitch dark, only stars, and a roaring tide.  A bit unnerving for someone from Hamburg, New York.  We arrived at the hatchery and sat for a bit and then proceeded South. (you basically pace the beach for 6 hours or so). 

About halfway back to our starting point, Bryan pointed out a turtle trail. (how he saw it in the dark is beyond me!).  But, it was there!  Here's a picture of one in the daytime.

Notice the huge gouges in the sand.  Sometimes you can see a tail drag mark.  You can decipher whether the turtle was going into or coming out of the ocean based on the marks.  It is shorter coming in due to high tide and longer going out due to the change between the two times.

I was going to see my first Leatherback turtle!  As we approached I was able to see her making her body pit.  That means she was digging a spot in the sand (about 12+ inches down).  She then began to dig an egg chamber by alternating her back flippers.  (it is amazing that such a huge beast can be so delicate as she reaches in and scrapes the sand.)  She then scoops out the loose sand from the bottom of the chamber and piles it on top.  The turtle will do this until the egg chamber is about 2 feet deep.

I was so excited.  While she was digging her egg chamber, Bryan showed me how to dig my own body pit behind the turtle.  I was going to count the eggs as they dropped out of the Leatherback into the chamber.  We set out the equipment on a sheet of plastic (the scanner, tape measure, tags). I put on plastic glove and was handed a counter.  Tourists were walking towards us in the dark (2 groups).  Guards communicated with red flashes.                                                                                     
                                                                                            Here's Biologist Bryan!





Time to get ready to count!  Laying flat on my stomach on the wet sand, head nearly in a turtle butt, I waited for her to start depositing eggs.  Tourists were standing over me and I was very nervous.  At the moment when she stopped making her egg chamber, I was to hold back her left flipper and using my headlamp (red, of course) and the counter, I was to count the eggs as they fell.   Yikes.  The eggs began to fall out of the turtle in groups of 2-3, white, perfectly formed spheres, still wet from being inside the turtle. (photo courtesy of Matthew Godfrey). Mucus was dripping from her--sounds yucky doesn't it.  It wasn't though...I never gave it a second thought!   Many people ask if it bothers the turtles when all these people are around.  Remember, the turtle goes into a trance-like state when she is laying eggs.  We did avoid going toward the head of the turtle, no one was allowed to walk in front. (Just to be sure!)

                                                    Leatherback Clutch       

          A mucous like substance occasionally dripped into the chamber.  Small egg-like spheres and misshapen ovals also are layed by the turtle.  These are called SAGS. (shelled albumen gobs)  Biologist still don't know why they are present!? Mind you, laying with your arms straight out, flat on your stomach in the sand, holding a counter and a flipper, with toursits crawling around, can be both strenuous and nerve wracking.  But, worth every moment!!!  This continued for 8-9 minutes.  When she was done, her flipper began to push strongly against my hand.  I let go and she began to fill in the nest with her back flippers. Push, push, pat the sand down... Push,push, pat down the sand...

                                                                                                                                                                
   photo courtesy of Noelle Rucinski     Isn't she a beauty! 

This process took about ten minutes.  She then covers/disguises the nesting spot by flipping LARGE amounts of sand everywhere.  This covers the eggs more and disguises the nest.  We sat for a moment or two next to her.  I touched her shell.  It was soft and leathery (shocker!)  She let out this tremendous SIGH!





This is a picture after the nest was disguised. 
                                                                                                         Somewhere under there is a nest of eggs.

In all, there were 66 eggs laid.  The average is usually between 65-75 per clutch. 

After picking up the equipment, we again started north to the hatchery.  We passed a guard on the way back.  They stand out on the beach to keep away tourists and to protect the turtles..  They station themselves near the turtle as it nests. Bryan talks to them like he has known them forever.  His Spanish seems as good as his English.  You can tell the people like him.

Over the radio, while on our way to the hatchery,we heard that there was another turtle in!  As were were quickly walking back, Bryan yelled to us to hurry!  Turtle # 1 was returning to the ocean.  What a treat, to watch such a phenomenal beast returning to its natural environment.  It was going back to where it belonged. (photo courtesy of Matt Godfrey)

 

We headed for turtle 2 who was just making its body pit.  We unpacked the equipment.  My job was going to be to measure the turtle and scan for PIT tags.  To see what a PIT tag is click here:(http://www.seaturtle.org/tagging/pit.shtml)  I knelt by the side of the turtle (away from the head) and felt its soft leathery shell.  I was to help Bryan measure the carapace from the front to the peduncle using a measuring tape.



How Big Is A Leatherback Turtle?

They are BIG.  We measured the turtle and it was about 5 feet from the front of the shell to the peduncle. (tail)  We then scanned for the PIT tags that identify the turtle.  They are placed in her shoulders.  The data is then recorded on a data sheet and kept track of for further use.

Into nearly every nest, a thermocouple is placed to monitor temperature.  It is a film canister with a wire sticking out.  The wires are placed carefully in the nest and the film canister at beach level.  It is then covered with a thin layer of sand and marked with a coconut or piece of driftwood to be found later. 

I sat next to the turtle and listened to her heave several large sighs as she covered her 66 eggs.  Brian illuminated the turtle tracks so we could see them returning to the ocean.  You can infer the true size and weight of the turtle by looking at these. 

 

We were radioed that hatchlings were making their way to the ocean, but it was too far to get there on time.  We were able to however, see three little trails to the sea left behind by the little buggers.  How awesome is that!  (photo by Gene Bednarek)

 

 

                              This is what their cute little tracks looked like!                         

                                                                         (but at night)                                     (photo  Noelle Rucinski)



Day Two: What was I Thinking?

I awoke at 10 am--feeling pretty rested.  Chatted with other volunteers--an amazing group of people. Here you have to walk for your breakfast!  It is all ready SO hot outside.  We walked to Kike's--a great little restaurant about a half mile down a dirt road.  It is amazing how fast you adapt to not having the luxury of driving everywhere. (and its not really that big of a deal!--especially when you are hungry!). 

You choose breakfast from the Earthwatch menu--lots of choices and each delicious.  My favorite was beans and rice and scrambled eggs with funky green sauce added.  Yummy! 

See the beans and rice selection!!!

Walked back to the Marine Station and replaced Dave for awhile in the hatchery!  You sit out under and umbrella in the blistering sun "guarding" the nests!  Why?  Tourists and predators (at night--especially racoons).  During the day you sit there for a tan (JUST KIDDING).  You sit there to just keep an eye on the nests, watch for tourists etc..

Here's a picture of the hatchery!  

Each nest that is in danger from high tide, too close to the vegetation or has other problems, is dug up and moved to the hatchery.  A new nest is made and the eggs placed in it.  It is then surrounded by chicken wire, hooked up with a thermocouple and covered.  It is given a number and monitored until the hatchlings emerge!



Never volunteer??

Anyone want to go help Erin check temperatures?  That was the question asked.  Wanting to get the most out of my "volunteer" experience, I said, "I will."  Why not?  It will be fun...Wee, maybe not...

 

We were driven down to beach marker 36...way South...walked through a hotel parking lot and onto the beach.  Our job was to walk from 36, north towards the house and check nest temperatures--IT WAS 3 pm...Seems I forgot my Earth Science lessons of when the HOTTEST part of the day was...

Now for a quick lesson---

1.  Look at the list of nests to be checked (it was endless!)

2.  Go to the data book (lists the temps that were taken on previous treks)

3.  Example--nest IS0061--26.2 (location on beach)

--in the secret data book is the super secret marker for each nest (they are very unique...some examples are as follows:  coconut, half coconut, log, log that looks like alligator...)  Sometimes, you are lucky and the nest is marked with a tag in the vegetation (pink/orange tape)..

4.  So now, you've located the nest (using the super-secret clue).  What do you do?

--Dig up the thermocouple, plug it into the machine (in backpack) and it reads the temp--

--Turn to the data pages and write down the temp...

WHY? I thought you'd never ask...That's how they predict when the nest will hatch---So ALL THIS TORTURE IS WORTH IT!

Things to realize:

These nests are not always easy to find on a big beach...some need to be located (like the ones created last night by the turtle I saw).

How do they locate a nest?  Not so easy in 85 degrees, tromping through sand looking for a coconut or a stick with knots...What if a culprit ran off with the knotty stick or half-a-coconut...??Then what??  What would we do????

Well, for even more fun, you would use three measurements previously taken to re-find the nest...

The four measurements are from the nearest two beach markers, then to the vegetation, then to the high tide line.  A long process when you are walking through the loose sand.

BUT, these little guys are worth it!

 



Was it really worth it?

Of course, all the walking was tiring, but actually Erin was great fun!  I really understood alot more about what they were doing.  I got a new perspective on how persistent these people are and dedicated.  Not one person ever didn't finish the job they set out to do.  Very impressive to say the least!  We returned at about sunset...I was very tired but my head was full of ideas.

This is why the group Leatherback Trust is so concerned about saving Playa Grande:http://playagrandeinfo.org/pages/threat.htm