Woolies Sphynx & Devon Rex

SHOWING YOUR NEW CAT:

What is a cat show?

Show a kitten & earn rewards!

GENERAL INFORMATION:

Are Sphynx and Devons hypo-allergenic?

What are F1, F2, and F3 kittens/cats?

Are Sphynx really hairless?

Do you ship your kittens?

When can I have my new kitten?

What does my new kitten come with?

How Much Does a Kitten Cost?

TAKING CARE OF YOUR KITTEN:

How long will it take for my new kitten to adjust to it's new home?

How do I introduce my new kitten to my other cat(s)?

What kind of litter & box should I use?

Why must my kitten be kept indoors all the time?

Are there indoor dangers I need to avoid?

What about clawing/declawing?

What kind of care does a Devon require?

What kind of care does a Sphynx require?

NUTRITION:

What kind of food should I buy?

VACCINATION & OTHER HEALTH QUESTIONS:

Help! My kitty has diarrhea! How can I fix it?

What is a Special Needs Kitten/Cat?

Do you have a health guarantee?

What is HCM?

 

 

 These are terms used to define first, second and third generations in an outcross program.  The Sphynx are still a relatively "new" breed, and the gene pool is still limited.  Outcrossing is vital to a breeding program to introduce new bloodlines so cats are not inbred to the extent of producing unhealthy or defected kittens. 

     *An F1, or first generation outcross, is the result of a purebred Sphynx mated to an approved outcross.  In CFA, allowed outcrosses are American & Domestic Shorthairs.  In TICA, allowed outcrosses are American Shorthairs & Devon Rex.  I use Domestic Shorthairs (DSH) in my Sphynx outcross program.  F1 kittens are always fully coated, but carry the recessive hairless gene.

     *An F2, or second generation outcross, is the result of a purebred Sphynx mated to an F1 outcross.  Hairless kittens are expected in this litter, statistically 50% of the litter or more will be hairless.  I have seen both hairless, straight-coated, and even curly-coated kittens in F2 litters.

     *An F3, or third generation outcross, is the result of a purebred Sphynx mated to an F2 outcross.  The ratio of hairless to coated kittens in this litter increases, with 75% of the litter or more being hairless.

     *Subsequent breedings of F3 to purebred Sphynx are considered to be purebreed and are eligible to be shown in Championship status.  These litters will all be hairless.

 Just as in every aspect of life, sometimes we have babies that require more care & attention than others. Such examples of a Special Needs Kitten/Cat include, but are not limited to:  Kittens born with a fault such as a kinked tail, genetic ailment, chronic health issues, runts, etc.  They are wonderful kitties that deserve every ounce of love & adoration that of their "normal" siblings. They are priced less usually and cannot be shown in competition due to their faults. 

 There are several different Feline Associations throughout the world, the largest being: Cat Fanciers' Association (CFA), The International Cat Association (TICA), Federation International Feline (FIFe), American Cat Fanciers Association (ACFA), and Canadian Cat Fanciers (CCF).  My cattery is registered in TICA & CFA, however, I primarily show my cats in TICA.  This is due to the fact there are no CFA based clubs in Alaska, and we only have TICA shows in my area.  The purpose of a cat show is to get a 3rd person professional view on how well your cat(s) adhere to the entire breed standard.  Showing cats is very important for breeders, so they know that they are breeding cats of good form and excellent health.  For pet owners, showing is a very fun experience!  Your cat wins ribbons and can achieve distinguished titles ranging from Champion to Supreme Grand Champion as well as Regional & International awards! It also provides the opportunity to get to know other feline fanciers, other cat breeds, and other breeders. 

 Who doesn't like to be rewarded for their achievements?  I offer a very special incentive to owners who decide to show their cats/kitten from me.  If you decide to show your cat/kitten in TICA and achieve the title of CHAMPION, you will receive $100 cash from me! For every title achieved thereafter, you will get an additional $50! How cool is that?!  If you show your cat in CFA and achieve the title of GRAND CHAMPION, you will recieve $200 from me.  Showing your cat in competition is a very exciting, fun and REWARDING experience!  Now, let's go to the show! 

  HCM, or Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy, is a genetic, age-progressive heart disease that affects ALL cats, not just Sphynx or purebreeds.  Breeders use a tool called an Echocardiogram to take pictures & measurements of the heart to detect this disease in their cats.  It is recommended that cats begin screening at one year of age, and annually thereafter.  Scans are important as they assist breeders in detecting unhealthy cats in their program.

  Yes, and prevention is always better than dealing with a serious accident. Like human babies, kittens and
adult cats have little sense of danger and more driven by curiosity.  Some dangers and tips in keeping your
kitty/cat safe:

• Keep electrical cords out of the way if your kitten or cat tends to chew on them.
  

• Never give your kitten/cat any cow’s milk, only kitten milk or goat milk.
  

• Never give any medications to your kitten/cat without a veterinarian's approval. Even if someone you
  know thinks it is okay.
  

• Close the doors of the microwave, washing machine, dryer and oven in case a curious cat crawls
  inside. And, always check before you use appliances.
  

• Remember most household plants are poisonous to cats, except cat grass and catnip, so remove
  them or find ones that you know for sure are not poisonous to cats.
  

• Never allow anyone to flee dip your kitten/cat, they are allergic and some may die from this. Ask your
  vet about one of the once a month programs such as Advantage, they work and are safer to use.
  

• Strings, yarns, rubber bands, pins, sewing thread, delicate ornaments and dental floss may be fatal to
  you kitten or cat. Cats can swallow small pieces, causing intestinal blockages. Keep them in closed
  cabinets and discard in closed trashcans.
  

• Keep the toilet seat down; your kitten may climb in the bowl and drown.
  

• Take care of leftovers immediately and out of reach of your kitten/cat. Chicken bones can shatter and
  choke your kitty.  Chocolate is poisonous to cats.   Best rule of thumb: feed only cat food to your kitty.
  Always keep your trash can covered and do not leave food in the sink or counters.
  

• Keep all disinfectants and other chemicals such as antifreeze in a locked kitten/cat proof area.
  Antifreeze is one of the most toxic chemicals to cats and even a small amount is lethal.
  

• Take care to use disinfectants that are not harmful to cats. They can absorb chemicals through their
  feet or lick them off their fur. In general, avoid those that turn milky in water. Dilute disinfectants to the
  correct concentration, rinse well and let the area dry before allowing your kitty/cat in that area.
  

• Ventilate the kitchen if you are frying with oil. Fumes from burning oil can be toxic to your kitty.
  

• Guard open fires, cats often sit too close and may burn their fur.
  

• Leave burners covered with pans of water until they cool down and discourage your kitty from walking
  on the stove.
  

• Cat-proof your home very carefully. A kitten can squeeze through a tiny space, or pull apart screens that
  have not been fastened properly. Ensure that windows and screens are kept shut and are truly
  secured.
  

 Some of the dangers for cats that are allowed outdoors are: 

     *Being a meal for wild animals.

     * Traffic on the roads.

     * Risk of infection with feline diseases.

     * Risk of catching disease from infected prey.

     * Risk of getting shut into sheds or garages.

     * Risk of your cat being taken by someone else.

     * Risk of being trapped somewhere.  .

  I am very adamant that owners of my babies DO NOT declaw their kitties!  Cats that are declawed tend to develop other inappropriate behaviors such as biting and/or failure to use the litterbox.  Declawing is a painful procedure that cuts off the first joint of the "finger".  You can easily encourage your cat to use scratching posts (sisal are best, cardboard ones are great too!) by rubbing catnip on them and using deterrants on your furniture such as double-sided tape & other safe training aids.  I recommend you also clip your cat's nails every two weeks to minimize scratches.  Remember that scratching is completely natural and vital for the health of your cat's claws.  Always provide a scratch post or board for your kitties.

 I use non-covered pans and a clumping, dust-free litter.  Examples of such litter are:  World's Best, Feline Pine, and Swheat Scoop.  The rule of thumb is to have at least one litter pan per cat in the household.  Remember to place the pans in a ventilated area, yet away from drafts and also away from their food & water dishes.  Keep the pans well scooped and sanitize weekly. Part of your new kitten kit includes a free 1 lb. sample of World's Best Cat litter and some coupons to get you started. Your kitten will be enrolled into a special rewards program with WBCL so you can continue to receive discounts off their litter!

  Introducing your new kitty to your existing pet(s) should be a very deliberate introduction over a period of several weeks or a month as opposed to just kind of tossing them together. Since your resident cat may not be quite so pleased about the addition to your family as you are and most likely your new kitty will be scared by the unwelcoming resident kitten/cat(s).

At first, separate your new kitty from your other kitten/cat(s). Providing a room for your new kitten with several clean cozy beds, water bowl, food, new unused litterbox with litter and hopefully also a baby blanket from your kitties original home with the scents of home during this scary transition time. Try to keep noises and visits from friends and family to a minimum during the first few days when your new kitten arrives. After the kitty’s well health check from your vet, rotate toys and beds between your new kitten and existing cat(s). As you rotate the beds, place lots of treats on the beds where each cat's scent would be.

When you bring your new kitten and existing cat(s) together it's very important that you supervise and only bring them together for moments at a time - and distract with a treat that each kitty/cat likes. You may need someone else to help in giving your cat(s) or kitty the same treat. Hopefully, the cats learn this good treat occurs when the other cat is around. Gradually, over a period of at least a week - add the time they're together from about 20 seconds (at first) to maybe a few minutes. Always try to leave the putting together sessions, which can occur as many times a day as you have the time for on a good note. As you build the time they're together, aside from food, play with your new kitty using a fishing pole
type toy, or feathers or fabric or other type of toy. Your new kitty needs to chase and play and you don’t want him/her playing or chasing your existing cat(s) before they are ready, if both cats or all cats want to participate as a team, all the better.

  Nope!  Sphynx are described as not truly hairless, yet covered with a fine impercievable down.  The texture ranges from "rubbery" or likened to the feel of a warm peach.  Climate changes, fluctuating hormones, and genetics cause a fine "fuzz" to come and go as the cat ages.  True hair is only found on the bridge of the nose, ears, testicles, tip of the tail and sometimes the feet.

  In my opinion, Devons are a very easy breed when it comes to maintenance.  Their fur is very short with minimal to no shedding, so frequent baths & combings are not necessary.  However, their nail beds & ears collect a dark brownish to black "gunk", just like the Sphynx.  This can be easily removed with a baby wipe containing Lanolin.  Trim the nails as needed, only removing the "hook" of the claw.

  Due to the lack of fur, Sphynx are a fairly high maintenance breed.  They require frequent baths to remove dirt, oil and dander that collects in the folds of their skin.  Depending on how "greasy" your Sphynx is, they need to be bathed weekly or less often.  Any type of body wash soap can be used, just be sure to do a "spot test" in case of allergic reaction.  A dark brownish-black "gunk" collects on the nail beds and in the ears.  You can easily remove this with baby wipes that contain Lanolin.  Trim the nails as needed, only removing the "hook" of the claw.  Do not use any type of lotion, sunscreen, or body oils on your Sphynx!

Watch this short video of a Sphynx enjoying it's bath!

  My cats eat a blend of Iams Hairball and Wellness kibble as well as canned Wellness.  You will receive a sample of their food with your kitten kit.  If you decide to change the brand of food, you must mix the sample with the new brand over the course of one week or so before solely feeding the new brand.  If you do not do this, it may upset your kitty's tummy resulting in vomiting and/or diarrhea. It is important to continue feeding your Sphynx and/or Devon Rex a high quality food to ensure a long, healthy life while reducing skin issues, fur loss, and dental problems.

 Diarrhea is most commonly caused by an upset stomach and/or food sensitivity.  Did you recently change the brand of food you'd been feeding? If you change brands too quickly, upset stomach occurs with diarrhea and sometimes vomiting.  Was your kitty recently on antibiotics? If yes, or you suspect food allergy, try this simple recipe and continue to feed until the stools return to normal:  Mix pure, canned pumpkin (not the kind for pies, make sure it's pure pumpkin), a probiotic such as acidophilus (can be bought in any grocery store in capsule or liquid form), and powdered Colostrum (found in health food stores) with your cats' wet food 1-2 times a day until you see improvement.  Pumpkin provides added fiber, probiotics replace the good flora back into the GI tract that is lost with diarrhea, and colostrum boosts the immune system. 

If the diarrhea is mucousy, bloody, and has a horrible stench, then take your kitty in to your vet to be checked for parasites such as Coccidia, Giardia, worms, and T. Foetus.  These can only be resolved with special medications.

 The pricing of my kittens is in line with what other reputable breeders charge.  Sphynx kittens are $1200, Straight Coated outcross kittens are $100, and Devon Rex kittens are $800.  Special needs kittens or Retired adults may occasionally be available for less. 

 

  No!  A common misconception, Sphynx and Devon Rex are NOT hypo-allergenic.  However, there are many people with feline allergies that do very well with either or both of these breeds.  The Sphynx require frequent bathing which remove dirt, oil and dander that cause allergies.  Devons have very short, curled fur with minimal shedding which also prevent some allergic reactions.  Please remember that no breed is truly hypo-allergenic when searching for your new pet!

  Yes.  I offer a one year health guarantee against genetic defects, and a 72 hour guarantee from date of arrival against viral & fungal infections. 

  Yes, I do offer shipping, but only in Canada and the United States.  Shipping costs within the USA are included in my kitten prices.  You may also elect to fly into Anchorage and pick up your new kitty.  I will ship during the winter months, however, there are some restrictions that we follow through the airlines:  the temperature outside MUST be ABOVE 10*F in order to ship your kitten out, and the temperature must remain above 10*F throughout the entire trip, this includes all stops (if applicable) and the final destination.  If any leg of the trip is below 10*F, I cannot ship your kitten until the weather warms up.  Sometimes it may take several weeks before the temperatures get above 10* in Alaska during the winter months!  Winter in Alaska begins in October and ends in April.  Most of the time, we ship with a counter-to-counter VIP service.  This service is more expensive than shipping cargo, however, I find this type of shipping more satisfactory.  Your kitten rides in a climate controlled area instead of the cargo hold with the baggage. I use the following airlines to ship your kitten, depending on the area in which you live:  Continental, Delta, and Alaska Airlines.  I cannot ship world-wide because most airlines will not ship live animals out of Anchorage to foreign destinations.  I apologize for this inconvenience!

  My kittens do not go to their new homes until:  they are between the ages of 16-20 weeks (4-5 months) of age, have had at least 2 sets of FVRCP shots, their Rabies vaccine, dewormed twice, and fully healed from their spay or neuter.  If either myself or my vet suspects your kitten is ill, I will not allow the kitten to leave until it has finished all medication and has a final clean bill of health from my veterinarian.  This policy is in the best interest of both you & your new kitty for a lifelong healthy relationship!

  Each kitten leaves my home with a "new kitten kit".  Each kit contains:  a carrier crate, bed, toy, blanket, food sample, health certificate, vaccination/deworming record, a 1 lb. sample of World's Best Cat Litter with coupons, and a bag of kitten food. 

 It is difficult to give an exact time period but all kitties need time to adjust to a new environment and more in
terms of several weeks or months then days. Your kitty has lost every thing and everyone familiar to him/her.
Be patient. Allow your kitty to learn that you are a source of love and nurturing and not a threat to him/her.

Before you first bring your new kitty home, prepare a separate room with a clean comfy place to sleep and their baby blanket that came with them, food and water, and a clean litter box. Have only one person with your new kitty when it first comes home. Then, slowly introduce him/her to one family member or friend at a time, over a period of week or longer.

"Love thy neighbor as thyself." Mark 12:31