All about Bullmastiffs.
Originally Bullmastiffs were a combination of 40% English Bulldog and 60% English Mastiff. They were bred specifically to accompany gamekeepers on their rounds, being able to track well and having sufficient size and strength to tackle and overpower a poacher.
They are classified as a Working Dog. The English Bulldog from which the Bullmastiff is bred from is quite different from today's modern version. The English Bulldog of the 19th century was a more athletic dog than many of today's, although the loyal and calm temperaments are still the same.
They present an aristocratic, attentive and intelligent look. The Bullmastiff is distinguished from the English Mastiff by its smaller size and more compact face.
They have been described as: intelligent, loyal, stubborn, laid back, family oriented, stoic, and even-tempered. Bullmastiffs rarely bark unless there is a reason. There is a minimal amount of slobbering associated with a Bullmastiff, usually after eating or drinking. They are a dog that requires consistent and fair training. They do not take well to being bullied into something but will accept leadership. Obedience work with Bullmastiffs can be challenging as they are independent thinkers, but once learned it sticks!
The Bullmastiff seems to be very easy-going and as such tends to integrate well with other dogs. But as with any breed, you should start socialisation early. Puppy kindergarten type situations are definitely recommended. As far as the Bullmastiffs relationship to other animals (other than dogs) I can only draw on my own experience; my Bullmastiff is extremely gentle with cats, birds, hamsters, etc. (can anyone else give me any info?). I have heard from others that size rather than aggressiveness is often more an issue when being around other animals. Often Bullmastiffs don't realise their size and can hurt a smaller dog, or cat, with rough-house play.
In relationship to people, Bullmastiffs tend to be one family dogs. They bond extremely close with "their" people and can be suspicious of strangers. Early puppy interaction with lots of different people is key to overcoming potential problems due to this trait. This being said, if the family is loving and welcoming, getting a grown Bullmastiff dog through rescue contacts is a wonderful option, for those that don't want to go through the early "puppy" years. This is a quote from a long-time breeder of Bullmastiffs and rescue contact, "An overwhelming percentage of rescue dogs (dogs who have the most reason to be wary) settle in new homes with the greatest of ease. Almost all of the Bullmastiffs I meet in other people's homes are immediately outgoing and interested in being my best friend. Believe it or not Bullmastiffs can be quite cuddly and demonstrative. They must be integrated as a member of the family. I would say they are not very suitable for being an outdoor dog.
Bullmastiffs are also very good with children. Their easy going nature and calmness, tend to make them able to tolerate the energy of younger kids. But again, due to their size constant parental supervision is required.
They are a naturally protective dog. They have a suspicious nature in regards to strangers and "size" people up. Sufficient socialisation is extremely important due to this fact. They also naturally "guard" their family members. Bullmastiffs are constantly attentive and curious about their surroundings and will be alarmed if any danger is perceived to their pack. These two factors make, in my opinion, make on-going training and early puppy socialisation, all important. Without it, Bullmastiffs can become over-protective and over-aggressive towards strangers and other dogs, etc. The most amazing thing about Bullmastiffs is their ability to sense people's intentions - they seem to know instinctively the difference between a "bad" person and a harmless visitor to their property.
Bullmastiffs do not tend to tolerate LARGE variances in temperature. They do not like extreme heat or extreme cold. I have heard from people that some Bullmastiffs do like the snow.
The Bullmastiff is not a high-energy dog. One longish walk every day should take care of required exercise. But play sessions, trips to exciting places and other highlights should be incorporated as they will otherwise tend to get bored.
NOTE: Bullmastiffs do tend to have a high tolerance for pain and often will not complain about discomfort until the condition is quite bad.
Suitability for Working People
The Bullmastiff seems to tolerate being left alone well, and would fit into a family where both parties are working. Although it should be noted that any puppy will require someone coming home during the afternoon.
Please note that puppies of any breed are a LOT of work and require without a doubt, time, energy and love. On average a puppy requires at least 4 hours per day and probably more if you are into any type of training.
Grooming Requirements
Bullmastiffs are a short-haired dog which have minimal shedding. The brushes I have found that work the best are: rubber palm brushes used in a circular motion to lift out dead hair and bring the oil to the surface followed by a slicker brush to trap the hair. A grooming session at least once a week should be sufficient.
Ear cleaning is a must as is nail clipping.
Would recommend teeth cleaning using an enzymatic toothpaste.
1. As with any large to very large breed, hip dysplasia is a problem. Suggestions are to make sure that both parents and grand-parents have been screened for hip dysplasia, either vet-cleared or OFA-cleared.
2. OCD "osteochondritis dissecans" - in the elbow can be particularly bad. They now OFA elbows.
3. Hypo-thyroidism - this can cause many problems and you should ask about this in parents and grand-parents. Although it can be controlled with medication I would not knowingly buy a puppy or dog at risk for this disease.
4. Eye problems "cherry eye" - can develop problems with the bottom lid poking through - this can be corrected with surgery. Entropia - eyelashes growing inside the eyelid. This can be corrected with surgery. The symptoms are: puffy eyes with discharge, eyes that look half closed.
5. Renal failure - probably mostly due to the hypo-thyroid condition if it is present.
6. Lymphoma Sarcoma - have talked to some Bullmastiff breeders who are seeing an alarming trait in some lines with the development of Lymphoma Sarcoma. I would talk with the breeder to make sure that this trend did not exist in past litters of both parents and grand-parents.
While this seems like a large list it should be remembered that the occurrences of some of the above conditions is rare. Hip dysplasia probably being the most common condition. As far as the breed as a whole, my vet has said it has very few commonly occurring medical problems as far as her vet science books are concerned.
British Breed Standard
General Appearance. Powerful build, symmetrical, showing great strength, but not cumbersome; sound and active.
Characteristics. Powerful, enduring, active and reliable.
Temperament. High spirited, alert and faithful.
Head and skull. Skull large and square, viewed from every angle, fair wrinkle when interested, but not when in repose. Circumference of skull may equal height of dog when measured at top of shoulder; broad and deep with well filled cheeks. Pronounced stop. Muzzle short; distance from tip of nose to stop approx. one third of length from tip of nose to centre of occiput, broad under eyes and sustaining nearly the same width to end of nose; blunt and cut of square, forming right angle with upper line of face, and at same time proportionate with skull. Under jaw broad to end. Nose broad with widely spreading nostrils; flat, neither pointed nor turned up in profile. Flews not pendulous, never hanging below level of lower jaw.
Eyes. Dark or hazel, of medium size, set apart the width of the muzzle with furrow between. Light or yellow eyes highly undesirable.
Ears. V shaped, folded back, set on wide and high, level of occiput giving square appearance to skull which is most important. Small and deeper in colour than body. Point of ear level with eye when alert. Rose ears are highly undesirable.
Mouth. Level desired but slightly undershot allowed but not preferred. Canine teeth large and set wide apart, other teeth strong, even and well placed.
Neck. Well arched, moderate length, very muscular and almost equal to skull in circumference.
Forequarters. Chest wide and deep, well let down between forelegs, with deep brisket. Shoulders muscular, sloping and powerful, not overloaded. Forelegs powerful and straight, well boned, set wide apart, presenting a straight front. Pasterns straight and strong.
Body. Back short and straight, giving compact carriage, but not so short as to interfere with movement. Roach and sway backs highly undesirable.
Hindquarters. Loins wide and muscular with fair depth of flank. Hind legs strong, and muscular; with well developed second thighs, denoting power and activity, not cumbersome. Hocks moderately bent. Cow hocks highly undesirable.
Feet. Well arched, cat-like, with rounded toes, pads hard. Dark toenails desirable. Splay feet highly undesirable.
Tail. Set high, strong at root and tapering, reaching to hocks, carried straight or curved, but not hound fashion. Crank tails highly undesirable.
Gait/movement. Movement indicates power and strength of purpose. When moving straight, neither front nor hind legs should cross or plait, right front and rear left legs rising and falling at the same time. A firm back line unimpaired by powerful thrust from hind legs denoting a balanced and harmonious movement.
Coat. Short and hard, weather resistant, lying flat to body. Long silky or woolly coats highly undesirable.
Colour. Any shade of brindle, fawn or red, colour to be pure and clear. A slight white marking on chest permissible. Other white markings undesirable. Black muzzle essential, toning off towards eyes, with dark markings around eyes contributing towards expression.
Size. Height at shoulder: dogs63.5-68.5 cms ( 25-27 ins. ); bitches 61-66 cms ( 24-26 ins.). Weight: dogs 50-90 kgs ( 110-130 lbs. ); bitches 41-50 kgs. ( 90-110 lbs. )
Faults. Any departure from the forgoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to the degree of fault.
Note. Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Put together by Miss Tracie Wilson with many thanks from Emma.
