Monster Rock climbing area

Come Slay These Beasties!

Status

Open daylight hours every day (Mon-Sun) for $5 day passes per person.  Call/text/email/facebook-msg me in advance or when you're on your way (512-658-2275; hogge@pobox.com).  Leave signed release forms and check/cash in the box near the port-a-potty. 

The annual cap on the $5 day passes is no longer available. Please pay $5 per person every time.

Rain Beta: Lovecraftian Madness Wall dries out as fast as Reimers.  The pit dries out fast like that only if winds are up and humidity is low; otherwise most of the pit takes a day of no-rain to fully dry. Typically the next day you can count on the following set of routes being dry:

  • the four routes just outside the pit (5.9, 5.9+, 5.10a, 5.10c)
  • five deepest routes in the pit; three on the right cliff, two on the left (5.9,5.9+, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.11c)
  • the fifteen routes & traverses on Lovecraftian Madness Wall (ranging 5.7 to 5.13).
  • also consider variations of that wall's traverse, which start at 5.10c

Warnings

  • In the pit between the two cliffs, climbers might contact the cliff behind them on a fall, on both lead and top-rope.  Consider carefully whether you want to take those risks.  Consider wearing a helmet.
  • Mrock's fall hazards (boulders, opposing cliffs)  leave no room for sloppy belays.  Belayers must be sharp, on their feet, and ready to take up fast.  Keep only a mild arc of slack in the rope; do not let the rope droop below your belly button. 
  • Never climb the pit's traverse without coordinating with everyone in the pit; lead falls from the traverse can strike climbers and belayers under the traverse.
  • Do not climb above the (super shut) anchors, since falls can easily “back clip” you out of both anchors.
  • If a rope is hanging on a top-rope route, assume it’s a static line (unsafe for lead climbing), use it, but don’t remove it.
  • Stay off of detached boulders on ledges and cliff tops.  Some (but not all) are wrapped in tape as a warning.
  • Climbing involves risks of injury and death.  You assume all responsibility for your climbing risks.
  • Climbing requires expert instruction and practice in the safety measures that reduce risks of injury and death.

 

Policies

No climbers under the age of 18 unless supervised by a parent experienced in lead climbingNo children visiting who would not be safe on the tall, steep ladders.

No dogs are allowed due to ladder access and limited space.

No glass containers.

 

Pack in/pack out, especially cigarette butts.

 

No illegal activities of any kind on the property.  

 

Do not trespass onto neighboring lots.  Avoid noise and congregation near their back-porches.

 

You must sign and deliver a release form before climbing here.  Click here: http://www.freewebs.com/johnhogge/releaseformguidebook.htm.

 

Thanks!

Equipment

Bring sport climbing equipment plus:

  • slings and caribiners for a few belay anchors over deep pits.
  • helmet (to protect head on opposing-cliff climbs and protect belayer from broken holds, especially in the Pit)
  • mesquito spray in case the pit's "lively".

Two stick-clips are kept on-site for your use.

Directions

Mrock access is by appointment only; all others are trespassing. 

From Austin/Dallas:

  1. I35 runs north-south through Austin.  From I35, take one of several roads (e.g. 45, Parmer, or 6th Street) west to Mopac (aka Loop 1).
  2. Go south on Mopac.
  3. Go west on Southwest Parkway.  It dead-ends into H71.
  4. Go right (west) on 71.  Go past a lot of trees, then strip malls and Bee Cave Rd (on the right), past 620 (on the right), past Hamilton Pool Rd (on the left), then past a lot more trees and assorted hill-funk businesses. 
  5. Look for a big Chevron on the right and a sign that says “Lake Travis / Pace Bend Park”.  The Chevron is at the corner of 71 and RR2322 (aka. Pace Bend Rd).  Turn right. 
  6. Go roughly a mile, passing under minor power lines and then slow down at the major lines suspended on steel poles.  Mrock is the 2nd lot on the left after the major lines.  Look for the mail box with “2208”.   

From San Antonio:

Take the loop to 281 and go North for 65 miles.  Go east on  71 for 16 miles.  Go over the Pedernales Bridge and take a left on 2322 (aka Pace Bend Rd.).  Then see #6 above.

Do not park on road right-of-way outside the gates—you’ll be towed.  If parking is full, chill at a nearby restaurant or head to Pace Bend park or Reimers.  Reimers is 35 minutes away.  Hamilton Pool Road is only 10 minutes away, so side-trips to Monster Rock cost only 20 minutes round-trip.  Pace Bend park (offering deep water soloing when the lake is up) is a few minutes away, at the end of Pace Bend Rd.  It also offers camping. 

 

The property is narrow and long with parking spots nestled in trees on both sides of the dirt drive, from the gate to the shed & shack.  Walk down hill between two houses to the Troll Bridge stairway spanning across a dark chasm, the Pitfiend Pit. Thou standeth over Dungeons and Dragon’s Wall. The bridge bringeth ye to Sauron’s Tower, a rock island with Horror Movie Wall in the pit facing D&D Wall and Lovecraftian Madness Wall and Mythology Wall facing towards the river.  Walk ye left to the two ladders and go down.  These ladders are impassible to dogs and young children. 

 

The ladders terminate at a big ledge with scramble-downs to access Lovecraftian Madness Wall and various boulder problems.  Or you turn back to the main cliff to access J.R.R. Tolkein Wall, which has just two pairs of routes separated by Earth Elemental Boulder.  Turn left and scramble down into the Pit Fiend Pit to access Dungeons & Dragons Wall and Horror Movie Wall.

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