Home Sweet Home

Play is an important part of a cat’s day. Play helps a cat stay active and healthy, and it is a natural outlet for their hunting instincts. There are a few things to keep in mind that can make play better for both you and your cat. One of the most common problems owners have with their playful cat is that the cat becomes too aggressive and may bite or scratch them in the course of playing. This is most commonly results from being taught to play this way as a kitten. When playing with a kitten aggressively as their claws and teeth aren’t that painful or damaging, yet hey start to see fingers and hands as toys. Then it stops being cute when the kitten grows up becomes stronger and a more adept player/hunter. Cats need to be taught what appropriate play is. Stop playing with your cat and leave them alone if they are acting aggressive. Typically they mean no harm so if their playmate leaves they start to learn boundaries. The type of toy you use to play with them can also have an effect. If a cat is batting at a toy in their owner’s hand it is not uncommon for them to miss and accidentally scratch the person instead. If you use toys on a string or wand toys that can protect hands. Also toys that cats chase and bat around such as balls or most any small object can also keep fingers and hands safe. Another solution often used when cats scratch furniture or other items are caps that go on their claws which keep claws from causing damage or pain. These may be a wise choice if small children are in the house as this can protect against accidental scratches.

The other thing to keep in mind is keeping your cat safe. Cats often make items around the house their toys. This isn’t always safe. Be particularly aware of string or string-like objects such as elastics. These items can be very enticing to a cat yet also dangerous. If a cat swallows string or yarn it can cause a blockage, wrap around their tongue, or cause other significant health problems. Also don’t give them tiny toys that they could swallow. Cats are often very happy with very simple toys like a cardboard box, or a wadded up piece of tin foil. Everyone will have more fun if both pets and people are safe.

Aticle found at Doctor Dog

Holiday Safeguards

The winter season brings lots of fun holiday festivities, but pet-owners should keep in mind the following special precautions:

The holidays are not ideal for introducing a pet into your family. New puppies and dogs require extra attention and a stable environment, which the holiday season doesn't permit. Also, a puppy is not a toy or gift that can be returned. Instead, the AKC suggests giving a gift representative of the dog to come, such as a toy, a leash, or a bed.

Holly, mistletoe and poinsettia plants are pet poisons! Make sure they are kept in places your dog cannot reach.

Review holiday gifts for dogs to make sure they are safe. Items such as plastic toys and small rawhide sticks may be dangerous.

Remove holiday lights from lower branches of your tree. They may get very hot and burn dogs.

Watch out for electrical cords. Pets often try to chew them and may get badly shocked or electrocuted. Place wires out of reach.

Avoid using glass ornaments. They break easily and may cut a dog's feet and mouth.

Refrain from using edible ornaments. Your dog may knock the tree over in an attempt to eat them. Also, commercial ornaments may contain paint or toxins in the preservatives.

Whether your tree is live or artificial, both kinds of needles are sharp and indigestible. Don't leave your dog unattended in the room with the tree.

Tinsel is dangerous for dogs. It may obstruct circulation and, if swallowed, block the intestines.

Alcohol and chocolate are toxic for dogs, even in small amounts. Keep unhealthy, sweet treats and seasonal goodies out of reach.

The holiday season is a stressful time for dogs. Try to keep a normal schedule during all the excitement

DONATE TO MAKE OUR LIVES BETTER

Presents 4 Pets

Date: Supplies collected from October 17th through November 7th, 2009

Presents for Pets will be accepting donations via PayPal, as well as personal check, through December 15th.

Goal: To benefit local animal shelters and foster organizations by collecting and donating pet supplies to ease the financial strain these organizations and their volunteer?s experience. Additional goals include improving the quality of life for shelter animals, increasing their opportunities for adoption and recruiting foster homes for local needy pets.

Contact: Home Sweet Home Pet Sitting for more informatioin: hshps@earthlink.net

or call (541)479-0917

Items Needed

This is a list of always needed items for all types of pets:

Toys ? Treats ? Blankets ? Towels ? Rugs

Food ? Beds ? Leashes ? Collars ? Litter

Donation Locations

Those interested in making a donation can find drop boxes at participating establishments listed below. Home Sweet Home Clients clients are encouraged and welcomed to leave donations at their homes for their pet sitters to collect while they are providing pet sitting services.  All donations will be distributed to local animal shelters and rescue groups.

Grange Co-op - 1710 Schutzwohl Rd

Farmers Feed - 1750 Dowell Rd

South 40 Feed - 2475 Williams Hwy

Purr-fect Pet - 1688 NE Lynda Ln

Rays Food Place - 1555 Williams Hwy

Rays Food Place - 1427 NE 7th St

Rescue Groups

Rogue Valley Humane Society

429 S.W. Scenic Dr

Paws Program

2001 N.E. F st

Many dogs like to graze every now and then. Eating grass is a natural instinct that may make dogs feel better. But occasionally this herbivorous habit can upset the gastrointestinal tract and cause vomiting.

Causes

Why do our meat-eating friends indulge in veggie snacks? Most experts agree that your dog is probably self-medicating—much as you do when you go to the medicine cabinet for an antacid.

For example, gastrointestonal parasite infections can give your pet a nasty stomachache. Some experts believe that wild canids (such as foxes, wolves, and coyotes) nibbled grass to soothe their tender tummies.

Another hypothesis argues that this strange compulsion evolved because of a condition called exocrine pancreatic insuffinciency (EPI) Some pets don't make enough pancreatic enzymes, which help them digest food and absorb nutrients. Pets with EPI may graze to relieve an upset stomach and supply their bodies with needed nutrients.

Veterinarians agree that these medicinal explanations seem to hold up. After all, dogs who suffer vomiting or diarrhea often will graze in the back yard. On the other hand, some dogs may just develop a taste for the green stuff—they eat it because they like it!

One word of caution: Experts still aren't sure whether grass prevents or causes vomiting, so giving your pet grass could make his stomach upset worse!

What you can do at home

There's no cause for alarm if your pet nibbles grass now and then and doesn't show other signs of illness.

But if your pet develops vomiting or diarrhea whenever he visits the back yard buffet, discourage his vegetarian impulses by restricting access to grass. And if you spray your yard with fertilizers, insecticides, or weed-killers, remember: Chemically treated lawns are dangerous for your dog, so don't let him eat the grass until it's rained or you've heavily watered the area.

When to call the veterinarian

Call your veterinarian if your pet continues to eat grass and shows other signs of illness, such as vomiting, diarrhea, or lethargy.

What your veterinarian will do

Your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical examination and look for signs of abdominal distress. Your pet will need to surrender a fresh stool sample so the doctor can test for intestinal parasites. If the veterinarian suspects other medical conditions, such as pancreatic insufficiency or gastrointestinal obstruction, then your pet may need blood work or X-rays.

For most dogs, however, eating grass is a normal activity—like taking a trip to the salad bar.

How do we keep a powerful breed humble, surrendering, submissive, and peaceful? We never reward excitement. We don't favor any one dog over another. Once you have a pack, you can't favor any particular dog. You need to favor the calm-submissive state of mind. That's what keeps a pack healthy.

When you're feeding three dogs, always choose the dog that is the most calm and submissive to receive the food first. If that happens to be the pit bull, then feed him first. But if he's too exited, he should eat last. Wait until he's achieved the state of mind that you want. That way, he understand that it's the calm-submissive state that makes him part of the group.

If you have a high energy pit bull and lower energy Labradors, then make sure that you challenge the pit bulls more than the other dogs. Always keep the powerful breed very, very tired. And when you�re taking them on a walk together, who gets the leash first? The most calm and submissive. When you open the door, who goes out first? Obviously, the human � and then the most calm and submissive. If all three of them are in a calm-submissive state, which is ideal, then you can take everyone at the same time!

If you have problems walking all three dogs together, then take them one at a time. Master the walk that way. Then add a second dog to the walk. Then once you have that down, bring the third along. Your goal is to make them a calm-submissive unit, working together.

Stay calm and assertive,

Cesar Millan

By Nikki Moustaki

Today, dog parks are as common as playgrounds. In fact, some people say that dogs are the new "kids," but it?s important to remember that dogs are very different than your average preschoolers. If you take your dog to the dog park, follow these safety tips:

? Before taking your dog to the park, visit it alone. Have a look at the park?s posted rules. Ask other dog owners about the vibe at the park?are the other dogs friendly? Are they mostly big or small dogs?

? Make sure that your dog is socialized to other dogs. Some dogs are afraid of or aggressive toward other dogs. If you have an anti-social pup, consult a behaviorist or trainer to help you socialize him before you become a regular at the dog park.

? When you first take your dog to the dog run, try to go during an off-peak hour. It can be very crowded after work or on weekends and your dog may be intimidated by all of the activity. Make sure his first experience at the park is fun!

? Be certain that your dog?s vaccinations are up to date before taking him to the park.

? Never take a female in heat to the park. Some parks have rules against intact males.

? Remove your dog?s leash as soon as you enter the park. Leash aggression is common when one dog is on a leash and the others aren?t.

? Keep a flat or rolled nylon or leather collar on your dog at all times. Remove a choke or prong collar if you use one.

? If you bring toys to the dog park, prepare to share them with other dogs. If your dog is not good at sharing, leave his beloved toys at home.

? If you bring treats, make sure they are secure in a pouch or pocket. Other dogs will hound you for a treat?ask their owners before you indulge them.

? Recognize the difference between play and aggression. Some dogs play roughly and growl or bark. Many dogs like this level of play, and those that don?t usually avoid the rambunctious player.

? Recognize aggressive behavior?this includes raised hackles, bared teeth, and growling. If your dog is being aggressive, call him to you and remove him from the park for the day. If another owner?s dog is the aggressor, let him or her know that you feel uncomfortable with the way their dog is behaving?but do it nicely!

? If a fight breaks out, don?t get in the middle of it! Throw something into the fray, like a coat, or turn a hose on the brawlers. If your dog is involved in the fight, remove him for the day. Do not grab your dog by the collar if he?s in an aggressive mode; this will only fuel his hostility. If your dog is not involved in the fight, grab him before he can join in.

? Dogs can team up on other dogs, so watch that a weaker dog doesn?t wind up on the wrong end of a gang fight.

? Watch your dog at all times. It?s inappropriate to leave your dog in the run by himself, talk on your cell phone, or read a book.

? Don?t bring young children to the dog park. If you do, bring an older child and enforce a few rules: Don?t approach a dog you don?t know until you ask the owner if the dog likes kids; don?t run around making loud noises, which could provoke the prey drive in some dogs; don?t try to take a toy or food away from any dog; and always keep your shoes on.

? Above all, have fun!

Published with permission of HomeAgain®, the original publisher.

     Fear of thunderstorms is common in dogs. Many dogs can sense a storm coming from the rapidly falling barometric pressure.. Thus, your dog may show anxiety even before the storm can be heard.

    Dogs can sense fear or discomfort from people, so it is important you develop a calm attitude toward storms. Let your dog stay close, and try to distract him with play. Do not try to comfort him in a sympathetic voice; this will sound like praise and may increase his nervousness and confusion.

     Keep windows and curtains closed to reduce noise and bright flashes. Turn on a TV or radio at normal volume to distract your dog from loud noises and help him to relax.

Provide your dog with a safe place to be during storms, whether inside or out. Create a special den-like area in your home where your dog always feels safe and secure. If a storm is brewing, lead your dog to his special place to help him feel calm and protected. If you cannot bring your dog inside, cover his doghouse with a blanket to offer some protection from the bursts of lightning and thunder.

     Keep windows and curtains closed to reduce noise and bright flashes. Turn on a TV or radio at normal volume to distract your dog from loud noises and help him to relax.

Dogs that continue to panic when a storm approaches may have to be reconditioned by creating an artificial storm with environmental recordings. While reconditioning can be a time-consuming procedure, it can have a high success rate. A qualified dog behavioral therapist such as a Bark Busters trainer can help your dog be calmer during thunderstorms. In some cases, medication may be the best solution to help your dog cope with his fear of storms. Consult with your veterinarian about possible treatments, in conjunction with training.

     By taking these precautions, you and your dog can enjoy a healthier, fun-filled summertime.

Because the puppy has spent his early weeks developing in the company of his mother and his brothers and sisters, his mental processes should be mature enough to handle the move from the breeder to your home, and he should be receptive to training. Still, just because your puppy has been socialized doesn't mean he doesn't still need your guidance from day one! Don't forget to get right to work setting your new pack's rules, boundaries, and limitations and consistently enforcing them. Your new puppy is easily influenced by your pack leadership, so keep it balanced and consistent! Housetraining and introduction to the sights and sounds of your puppy's new home should begin right away. Positive experiences associated with the various new elements of your puppy's life will help ensure a smooth transition. And don't forget that your puppy is still a social animal! If you have no other dogs or pets, try to find calm, vaccinated dog pals for him to interact with. This could prevent issues that may arise later on from lack of socialization

During this stage, the puppy will attempt to determine the social rankings within her new "pack". This may include the same kind of play-fighting that she engaged in with her brothers and sisters, but now directed at you and the rest of her new "littermates." In wild packs, these kinds of dominance games serve a vital function. Puppy is testing her boundaries within her social circle, seeing if she has what it takes to physically challenge her peers and even you, her pack leader. If you don't step in and discourage this kind of dominance-seeking behavior early on - or, worse yet, if you allow your puppy to "win" at dominance games such as wrestling or Tug-of-War - it could set the stage for more serious challenges to your leadership down the road.

Play-biting may also escalate during this stage, and it should be considered vitally important to correct this behavior rather than allow it to continue. Be sure to correct immediately to allow the puppy to connect the behavior with the correction, and be consistent!

Between months 4 and 6, you may find your puppy exhibiting signs of a return to the flight phase that she went through during or around week 8. However, unlike at 8 weeks, when the puppy's flight was fueled by her reaction to the startling new environment, this new phase will be more closely associated with the independent and rebellious stage that she's going through. A collar and leash will provide the crucial physical connection between you that can keep her from bolting when you approach. Do not allow her to roam off leash in any open or highly populated public area until she demonstrates to you that she is willing to accept your commands. And don't forget your most powerful tool: your calm-assertive energy and balanced pack leadership!

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Hide your designer shoes! During this stage, you can expect your puppy to begin teething, which means that unless you provide her with suitable chew toys to occupy herself and relieve her discomfort, she is liable to destroy some of your treasured belongings. Many people take this kind of destructive behavior as a form of "personal" rebellion by the puppy, but think about it. Doesn't it make sense that the puppy would seek out as attractive items that are most saturated with your scent? If your puppy does find and mangle a precious possession of yours, DO NOT react with anger! Remember to maintain balance and provide firm, calm corrections. Once you have corrected your puppy, immediately provide her with an acceptable substitute to make the connection in her mind. Frozen bones may provide pain relief for a dog in great discomfort and also a reward for responding to your corrections with calm-submissive energy.

During this stage, many new owners become concerned by the sight of blood on their new puppy's chew toys. Don't panic. This is a completely natural part of this phase of the puppy's development as she begins to lose her milk teeth. Still, if you have persistent concerns, be sure to discuss the matter with your family veterinarian. Ask about proper dental care - when and how to brush (ideally once a week or more) and which products to use. Certain products such as raw bones may be perfect both for soothing the dog's chewing instincts and for removing plaque and tartar buildup around her teeth and gums.

Finally, this stage will usher in the beginnings of sexual maturation in your puppy, which may lead to some extra frustrations. Marking and scenting can become a problem around the house even if the puppy has been successfully housebroken. The best and safest way to avoid these problems while simultaneously decreasing the chances of many future health risks is to have her sterilized if you haven't already done so. Sterilization is a still debated topic among many dog owners and veterinarians, but most veterinary professionals agree that a safe and optimal time to have the procedure done is when the puppy is about 6 months old.