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Size
A horse should have enough room in his stable to be able to lie down comfortably for a nap. He should also be able to move around and be able to stretch his legs. A horse's stable should be no less than 12ft by 12ft, while a pony's can be a bit smaller, measuring no less than 10ft by 12ft.
Floor
A horse may stand on his stable floor for hours and hours. This is why it should be a non-slippery surface, and slope slightly so wetness can drain away. Dirt is the cheapest and easiest floor to install, and most horses do well on it. Unfortunately, hooves kick up dirt and make it uneven, so a dirt floor needs to be raked flat frequently. If your horse's stall has a concrete floor, you'll need to use plenty of bedding or rubber mats, because standing on concrete for long periods of time can be stressful to a horse's legs and hooves, and concrete is uncomfortable to lie on.
Bedding
All stable floors need to be covered with some kind of bedding. Bedding makes it comfortable for the horse to lie down, and it absorbs urine. There are three main types of bedding:
Shavings: You can buy shavings at the feed store. They are hygienic, absorbent and easy to clean out. They make a very comfortable bed, but they can be kind of expensive.
Straw: You can buy straw from the feed store or from a farmer in the summer. Straw makes a thick, comfy bed, but it can be difficult to keep a straw bed clean. Beware: fat ponies will often eat straw and balloon up!
Rubber mats: Mats add a layer of cushioning under your horse's hooves. Most people put a layer of shavings or straw over the mats to encourage their horse to lie down. Mats can be kind of expensive, but they last a long time.
Doors
A stable door should be wide enough that your horse or pony can walk in and out without any problem. It should measure at least 4 feet across. It should be at least 8 feet tall so your horse doesn't whack his head every time he walks out of the stable.
The door should have two bolts on it, one at the top and one at the bottom. Why? Because some horses are escape artists and can undo the top one. The bottom one prevents a horse trapping his leg between the door and the doorframe.
The stable door should be in two parts: a top and a bottom. Horses are social animals and like to see what's going on around them. If your horse is quiet and well behaved, he should be able to put his head out of the stall.
Ventilation
A horse is less likely to catch colds or coughs if his stable has lots of ventilation. If possible, the top of the stable door should be open at all times, and if it's possible to have a window in the stable, make sure it has bars over it so your horse can't break it.
Stable Fixtures
It's handy to screw one or two tying-up rings into the stable wall. You can hang a haynet on one, and tie your pony up to the other if you need to groom inside the stable. Make sure the rings are at least 5 feet above the floor, or your horse may be in danger of catching his hooves in an empty haynet.
Manger or Bucket
Ideally a manger or bucket should be in the corner of the stable, and positioned at the same height as your horse's chest. You should be able to remove the manger or the bucket easily so you can clean it regularly. You need a bucket for feed and a bucket or two for water.
Salt Block
Bolt a salt block holder onto the wall at the same height as your horse's head. Salt comes in small bricks that you can put in the holder.
Automatic Waterer
If your horse has an automatic waterer, check it every day to make sure that it is working. Sometimes the pipes get blocked.
There are lots of reasons why horse people have blankets in their tack rooms. A blanket is a little like a horse's coat. It can keep him warm in cold weather and helps him stay dry during a rainy spell. A blanket can keep a horse clean before a show and it can help to dry him off if he's sweaty after a work out. Horses that are clipped have to wear blankets to keep them warm out in the field and in the stable.
If you go to a tack shop or flip through a catalog, you'll see hundreds of different blankets. Which one does your pony need? Does he even need one at all? Let's check out some popular blankets. Then you can decide if one is suitable for your horse.
Stable Blanket
When a horse is outside, he can move around to keep warm. If he's stuck inside, he can't move around much and he may get cold. You can help keep your horse warm by putting a stable blanket on him. If he's clipped out for the winter, he'll definitely need to wear one when he's in the barn.
A stable blanket has a nylon shell with padded insulation underneath. Most stable blankets have a hook fastening in the front, on the horse's chest, two straps that cross under the pony's belly.
Cost: $50-$150
Stable Sheet
This is a lightweight sheet that is made of nylon, polyester or cotton. A horse wears it in the stable so he stays clean. It's very annoying to wash your horse until he sparkles the day before a show, and then bring him out in the morning and discover that he's rolled in poop! This sheet is also used at shows, and when a horse is traveling in a trailer in cool weather.
Cost: around $50
Turnout Blanket
All horses should spend some time outside every day. But if the weather is cold and the field is muddy, a clipped horse or one with a thin coat should wear a turnout rug so he doesn't get chilly or wet.
A turnout blanket is made of tough nylon on the outside and has a woolen or acrylic layer on the inside to keep the horse warm. Sometimes people will buy a matching hood that attaches to the turnout blanket that keeps the horse's neck and head clean too.
Cost: $100-$250
New Zealand Rug
New Zealand rugs are very popular in places like New Zealand where the horses spend a lot of time outdoors, no matter how bad the weather is. They are made of heavyweight waterproofed canvas. A New Zealand rug has a fastening in the front, at the chest, and two leg straps that help to keep it balanced on the horse.
New Zealand rugs can get very heavy when they get wet or covered in mud, and they take a long time to dry, too. This is why it is important to have two New Zealand rugs, so you can put the clean one on your horse and hang up the other one to dry.
Cost: around $150
Cooler
A cooler covers a horse's neck, back and hindquarters. It is extra-long and reaches down to his knees. It has a fastening at the chest and a brow band that goes in front of a horse's ears to keep it in place. It is made of acrylic or wool. You put a cooler on a horse that is sweaty and hot, and it helps to cool him off. It absorbs dampness and prevents chills. You'll often see coolers at shows or at the barn on a horse that has just had a tough workout.
Cost: around $50
Anti-Sweat Sheet
An anti-sweat sheet is made of cotton web mesh. You put it on a sweaty horse, then over it with a stable rug or sheet. The stable sheet prevents the horse from getting a chill in cold air, and the anti-sweat sheet and its holes allow air to circulate near the horse's skin. An anti-sweat sheet has one fastening at the chest.
Cost: around $25
Fly Sheet
A fly sheet is a lightweight blanket made of nylon mesh. It keeps flies from landing on your horse and irritating or biting him. A lot of fly sheets are specially treated to block UV rays that bleach a horse's coat.
Cost: $50-$75
You're in the middle of a dressage test at a show. For once your horse is behaving. You know the test by heart. You might even get a good score! Suddenly, your horse starts shaking his head around like a maniac. Then you hear the buzz-a big old fly is attacking your horse's head, and there's nothing you can do about it. What are you thinking right now? We know - flies must DIE!
Flies can be very annoying in the summer months. Not only do they torment your horse; they can spread nasty diseases, too. That's why you must declare war on flies, and we're going to help! Check out our tips to help you keep your horse fly-free.
1. Keep your horse as clean as possible. Flies are attracted to mud and sweat.
2. Clean your horse's eyes every day with a damp cloth. Flies love to swarm around gunky eyes.
3. After giving your horse a bath, pour about a cup of cider vinegar into a bucket of water and rinse your horse with the solution. Flies don't seem to like the smell of vinegar.
4. Put a teaspoon of garlic powder in your horse's meals. The garlic is absorbed into his body and gives off a slight odor when he sweats. Flies don't like the smell of garlic and they stay away.
5. Mix one capful of Avon Skin So Soft in a bucket of water, then rinse off your horse with the solution. Bugs don't like Skin So Soft products.
6. Spray your horse from head to hoof with bug spray in the morning. Spray extra on his legs. When bugs land on a horse's legs, it makes him stamp. Too much stamping can result in loose shoes and lameness. Use a roll-on lotion around his eyes.
7. Keep a fly mask on your horse during the day. They cost about $15 at a tack shop. Take it off at night so it doesn't start to rub your horse's head.
8. If flies really bother your horse, he can wear a fly sheet during the day. A fly sheet is a lightweight, mesh sheet that keeps flies off your horse's skin.
9. If your horse spends all day stomping away flies, you can put special fly wraps on his legs. These wraps are made of lightweight mesh, and they have fly repellent on them.
10. Put fly repellent or medicine with fly repellent in it around cuts and scrapes on your horse's skin. Flies love landing on wounds.
11. Hang fly traps and strips around your barn to cut down on pests buzzing around.
12. Remove piles of poop quickly from the stable. Flies lay their eggs in manure. Pick up piles out in your horse's field. If you can't pick up piles, go out with a rake and spread the piles around. Once the manure is spread out, the sun will help dry out and kill off the fly eggs.
13. Lots of flies breed in water-and they especially love dirty water. Keep water tanks clean and get rid of puddles from the barn.
14. If flies really drive your horse crazy, or give him rashes, you may have to keep him in his stall during the day. Make sure he's got some hay to munch on and plenty of water to drink. Try to keep him inside as little as possible. Being stuck in the barn all day is boring!
15. Place the manure pile (and its flies) far away from the barn.
it's so important to make sure that your horse's tack fits properly. A badly fitting saddle can pinch a horse's back and make him unhappy. A bridle that is too tight can rub a horse's head and cause sores. And if your horse doesn't feel comfortable, he may behave badly, and you won't have fun riding him.
Next time you ride your horse, check his bridle and saddle to make sure they fit him perfectly.
A Suitable Saddle
Horses and ponies come in different shapes and sizes, and a saddle that fits one perfectly may be uncomfortable on another. You may have to try several saddles on your horse until you find one that fits him nicely.
Put the saddle on your horse, without a pad, and fasten the girth.
Stand on a block behind your horse, and look through the gullet (the tunnel.) It should be wide enough to clear your horse's spine, and you should be able to see out of the front of the gullet.
While mounted, you should be able to fit at least three fingers between the pommel and the withers.
You should be able to fit at least three fingers between the cantle and your horse's back.
Slide your fingers under the saddle at the front on each side. If you have trouble doing this, especially around the D-ring area, the saddle is too narrow and will pinch your horse.
The stuffing on the bottom of your saddle should be smooth-no lumps and bumps that put pressure on your horse's back. If the stuffing is completely flat take the saddle to a saddler to be re-flocked (more stuffing added).
You should be able to fit at least three fingers between the cantle and your horse's back.
A Fluffy Pad Won't Fix It! Don't try to make a terrible saddle fit better by using a fluffy saddle pad. This might be an okay emergency measure, but it doesn't work long-term. Just ask your horse!
Remember to pull your saddle pad up into the gullet (make a tent) to prevent pressure on your horse's withers and spine.
Bridles & Bits
Put on your horse's bridle and check it out. Have a hole punch handy in case you need to make some adjustments.
First of all, you should be able to slide a finger under the bridle, all over your horse's head. If the bridle is too tight, your horse will be uncomfortable and may shake his head while you are riding him.
Check that the noseband is in the correct position. A plain cavesson noseband should lie about two finger widths below your horse's cheekbone-the bone that juts out on the side of his face.
Make sure the noseband is not too tight, because it could interfere with your horse's breathing. You should be able to stick two fingers underneath the noseband.
A browband isn't adjustable so you have to buy the right size. It should be big enough to allow the headpiece to lie comfortably behind the ears. The browband should lie just below the base of the ears, without cutting in to them.
You should be able to fit the width of four fingers between the throatlatch and your horse's jawbone.
If your horse's bit is the right size, it should stick out about a quarter of an inch at each side of his mouth. If the bit is too wide, it will slide around and won't work properly. If it's too narrow, it will pinch and rub.
Where the bit sits in the mouth depends on how you adjust the bridle's cheekpieces. Ideally the bit should just wrinkle the corners of the mouth. Two or three wrinkles are about right.
Before you know it, the days will get shorter, the temperature will start dropping, and your horse will get fuzzier! Winter is on its way. Are you prepared? Now's the time to get your stable and horse ready for the chilly months ahead, so you won't be running around like crazy when winter finally hits. What are you waiting for? Grab a trusty checklist and get to work.
Blankets
If you were very organized in the spring, your blankets and rugs should be clean and packed away nicely. But if you are like most of us, they are dirty and thrown on the tack room floor! Grab the stable rugs and throw them in the washing machine, or take them to a laundromat. Hose off New Zealand rugs, and when they're clean and dry, paint them with a waterproofing solution. If rugs or blankets are ripped, take them to a saddler to be fixed.
You should have two turnout blankets. If one gets wet or extra-muddy, you can put the other one on your horse.
Stable
Strip your stable of old straw or shavings. Throw down some hydrated lime to freshen up the floors. If the floor is made of dirt or sand, rake it flat. Then put down a fluffy, new bed of shavings or straw.
Grab a broom and get rid of cobwebs.
Wash out all buckets.
Check the salt block. It might need replacing.
Make sure that brooms, pitchforks, rakes, wheelbarrows and shovels are all in good condition. You'll need them for mucking out.
Buy a couple bags of kitty litter and store them away. Kitty litter comes in handy if the floor get icy around the stable. Sprinkling kitty litter on ice helps prevent slipping and sliding.
Grooming Kit
Start the season out right with a brand-new currycomb. You know you're going to use it a lot on your muddy horse!
Field
Oil gate hinges and latches to help prevent freezing during cold weather. You can also use spray lubrication like WD-40.
If gateways and areas around the water trough get muddy during the winter months, ask mom or dad if you can get a truckload of Class I sand (very fine gravel) delivered and spread where the mud appears. Class I sand can help prevent a gateway turning into a soupy mess.
Check the insulating tape on water pipes. You may need to wrap more insulation around pipes to prevent them freezing later on in the season.
Feed
Most horses eat hay during the winter months. By now you or your barn owner should have sorted out a supply of hay. It's best to buy enough hay for the whole winter from the same source/farm. You don't want to have to switch hay in the middle of the winter. Check that your hay is stored properly. It should be placed on wooden pallets in a dry place. Pallets let air circulate under the bales so they don't get wet or moldy.
If you use haynets, make sure they are still in good condition. Sometimes the string breaks and hay falls out of big holes in the net.
Riding Clothes
Time to hunt for your winter riding clothes. Winter coats should be washed and ready to go.
Check your chaps (if you wear them) to make sure they don't need to be repaired.
If you don't have a pair of rubber boots, go to a discount store and invest in some. You'll be happy you have them once the fields get muddy. They come in handy for mucking out as well.
Invest in a pair of insulated gloves. You'll need them when the weather gets cold. Earmuffs that can be worn under your helmet while you're riding are a smart purchase as well.
If you have a pony or take care of one, you'll know that the farrier is one of the most important persons in his life. Sure, you feed him and the vet gives him shots to keep him healthy, but if your pony's feet are in bad condition, you won't be able to ride him - and that's no fun. Like the old saying goes, "No hoof, no horse!"
The farrier is the person who trims your pony's hooves, and puts shoes on him if needed. A pony's hooves are like human nails. They grow about a quarter of an inch a month, so they need to be trimmed and filed (rasped) into shape regularly.
If your pony's hooves get too long, they could crack and make it difficult for him to move properly. His shoes could get loose and fall off. He could also become sore and lame.
So now you see how important the farrier is to your pony. That's why we decided to talk to a farrier and find out how you can help him do his job.
If you ride at a barn, you might notice that sometimes fashion wins over safety. People wear clothes that look good at the mall, aren’t the safest thing to wear when riding a horse or pony. At Young Rider, we want to make sure that our readers stay safe in the saddle, so we always try to show our models wearing proper riding gear.
Just in case you’re not sure what proper riding gear is, we’ve asked Andi Kelly and Megan Lynn to show off some fancy duds that don’t really belong at the barn!
Lots of jewelry is off limits at the barn. Earrings can catch on your helmet or other items. Stick with small studs-or no earrings at all.
Necklaces and bracelets can get snagged on things and break-and if they get caught on something, you could get hurt.
Belly shirts might look groovy when you’re hanging out with friends, but they aren’t really appropriate for the barn. If you fall off and land on something, you could scrape your exposed skin. Look professional at the barn, and wear clothes that fit properly.
Don’t worry about what other people are wearing at the barn. You need to wear clothes that will keep you safe in the saddle.Well-fitting shirts won’t get caught on things.
safety helmets. Don’t ride without one!
Gloves always come in handy. They protect your hands and give you extra grip on the reins.
Jodhpurs and britches look professional and won’t rub your legs.
Half chaps protect your legs and give you a good grip on your horse or pony.
Boots with heels help to keep your feet secure in the stirrups. And they help to protect your toes if a horse steps on your foot.
Take several pads of fresh, sweet-smelling hay and place them inside the haynet. Pull up the drawstring to close the mouth of the net and trap the hay inside it.Haynets can be heavy, so throwing it over your shoulder is a good way to lug it around the farm.A haynet is a handy thing to have if you have a horse. You can take a haynet full of tasty hay to a show, so your horse has something to nibble on in the trailer and in between classes.
If your horse tramples on hay on the ground in his stall, you can put it in a haynet and hang it on the wall and he’ll waste less hay.
If your horse has a dust allergy, you can soak a haynet full of hay in water and then give it to him. Soaking hay cuts down on dust spores that can make your horse cough and wheeze.
Haynets are made of rope or nylon, and you can buy them at a tack shop. Here’s how you use one.
Thread the haynet tie-string through the baling twine loop and then loop the end through the very bottom hole of the haynet. As you pull up the tie string, the bottom of the haynet should lift up towards the ring.
Loop the tie-string through the net again, an dsecure it with a quick-release knot.
If you've teid up the net correctly, you should be able to yank the end of the tie-string and undo the quick-release know instantly.
Twine
If you’re hanging a haynet on a ring in your horse’s stable or on a fence, it’s a good idea to tie a piece of baling twine to the ring and then tie the haynet to the twine.
Why? If your horse gets caught up in the net, and pulls back, the twine will break and the haynet will fall to the ground and the ring won’t fly out of the wall.
A haynet ring should be up high enough so your horse can’t get a foot caught in it, but low enough so he doesn’t have to stick his head and neck up high to reach it.
When the air turns chilly, horse lovers start thinking about blankets and rugs. We’ve got 20 tips that will help you to become brilliant about blankets.
1. Be super efficient and wash all of your blankets when you’ve finished with them in the spring. Hose off turnout rugs and take stable blankets to the Laundromat. Store them in a dry, mouse-free place so they will be ready for you when you need them in the fall.
2. If a blanket rubs your horse’s shoulder, it may be too big for him and is moving around too much. If it’s the correct size, you should sew some fleece or slippery material into the shoulder area so the blanket doesn’t rub so much. Blanket rubs happen quickly and it takes ages before the hair grows back. You can also spray a show conditioner (the spray that makes a coat shine) on your horse’s shoulders to help stop the blanket rubbing.
Always have two turnout blankets in case one gets wet.
3. If your horse wears a canvas New Zealand rug, you must waterproof it in the spring before you store it away. You can buy paint-on waterproofing solutions in tack shops and from catalogs. Simply brush on the waterproofing solution on a clean rug and then let it dry.
4. When fastening leg straps, loop one strap inside the other to stop the straps from rubbing the insides of your horse’s legs.
5. If your horse is clipped and you live in a cold area, he must wear a blanket when you turn him out. He should also wear a blanket when he’s in his stable. Stabled horses can’t move around to keep warm, so if they are clipped, they need to wear blankets.
6. If a blanket needs an emergency repair, use duct tape to cover rips until you can get it to a repair shop.
7. Pay attention to the weather if your horse wears a turnout blanket. If it’s sunny and warm he might not have to wear a blanket. If you’re afraid of him rolling and getting dirty put a lightweight blanket on him when you turn him out.
Fasten the front of a blanket before sliding it back.
8. You should always have two turnout blankets per horse. If one gets wet or extra-muddy, you can put the other one on your horse until the first one dries out. Never put a wet, clammy blanket on a horse because it can give him a chill and make him sick.
9. When putting on a blanket, fold it in half and put it over the neck then fasten the neck straps. Then slide the rug back and cover the horse’s hindquarters. Then fasten the stomach and leg straps.
10. If your horse lives outside all of the time and wears a blanket, visit him every day to make sure his blanket hasn’t shifted. Sometimes a blanket can slide to one side and scare a horse. Check that the blanket isn’t ripped, too. Take off his blanket and check that he’s OK under it.
11. Blankets usually come in two-inch increments. To figure out your horse’s size, use a tape measure and start at the center of his chest and continue around the widest part of his hindquarters to the middle of his tail. If your horse falls between sizes, go with the larger size.
12. Once a blanket is on, you should be able to fit your hand around the neck opening. It shouldn’t be tight. There should also be v his stomach and the straps.
13. Keep your horse’s neck clean, by using a hood that attaches to D-rings on the blanket.
Put a cotton sheet under a blanket to keep it clean.
14. Use a lightweight cotton stable sheet under a stable blanket or turnout blanket. Clean this light blanket regularly and you won’t have to wash the thicker blankets as often.
15. Always cross the stomach straps. This helps to keep the blanket in place.
16. When taking off a blanket, unfasten the straps farthest back and work forwards.
17. When trying on a blanket, put a thin stable sheet under it so the blanket doesn’t get dirty. If it doesn’t fit and it gets dirty, you might not be able to return it.
18. When trying a turnout blanket, it’s a good idea to lunge your horse in it for a minute to see how it fits him while he’s moving around. After all, he doesn’t stand still out in the field, does he?
19. When you take off a blanket, hang it up somewhere so it can dry out properly.
20. When washing a blanket, cover the metal surcingle fasteners with socks so you don’t scratch up the inside of your washing machine.
Measure your horse before shopping for a blanket.
Don’t let your horse put his head down to eat grass. He might step on his reins and break them. Then you’ll have to dismount and lead him home.
If you plan to stop and picnic, bring along a halter and lead rope for your horse so you can tie him up safely. Never tie a horse up with the reins because he might pull back and break them.
Don’t jump any objects unless you’ve checked out both sides of it. There might be a hole on the other side of a log that could make your horse fall.
Try to avoid riding through livestock. Young cows might chase you and scare your horse.
Always walk the last mile to the barn. If you gallop it every time, your horse will get in the habit of this and jog and act silly if you ask him to walk.
Don’t try to gallop away from aggressive dogs. Try your best to stay calm and walk away from them slowly. Don’t make eye contact with a wild or aggressive dog.
Always ride with a friend.
If a gate is tricky to open, dismount and open it carefully. You don’t want to get pulled off your horse while trying to open a gate. Remember to shut gates behind you.
Don’t trample over newly planted crops. Stick to the outside of fields if you want the farmer to stay friendly.
Call your state’s department of wildlife to find out when the hunting season is in your area. Avoid riding in the woods during hunting season.
If your horse spooks at something scary on the trail, don’t let him turn away from it. Make him walk by it slowly and then continue on your way.
If you’re riding on trails where hunters shoot, wear bright colors like red or yellow.
Look on both sides of a jump before leaping.
If you spot a hunter near you in the woods, call out so he knows you are nearby. Keep calling until he looks at you or waves back.
If you spot a creek or pond while riding, don’t just trot into it with your horse. You don’t know how deep it is or what’s on the bottom. Enter a creek with care.
Always carry a hoofpick with you when trail riding in case a rock gets caught in your horse’s hoof. If you’ve got a small cellular phone, keep it in your pocket when trail riding in case of an emergency.
If your horse isn’t shod, try to stay off rocky paths or hard roads so his hooves don’t break up or get sore.
If your whip has a wrist strap, don’t wrap it around your wrist. It could get caught on a branch or fences post and pull you off your horse.
Always wear a helmet when trail riding-even if you ride western style. Western riders can fall off and hit their heads, too!
If a car is trying to pass you on the road, stay in single file, and wave them by slowly. It’s better to keep walking with your horse. If he stops, he may whip round to face the car and you might end up in a ditch!
Always give drivers who slow down a friendly wave to say "thank you."
Check the depth of water before walking in.
Have you been taking riding lessons for a while? Think you're just about ready to buy a pony of your very own? If your answer is "yes," you need to stop for a second and think seriously about how much money its going to take to buy and look after a pony properly. Ponies don't just appear out of thin air - they usually cost money. And once you've got the perfect pony, the bills start rolling in. He'll need tack, blankets and safety gear. He'll need regular feeding, and visits from the farrier and the veterinarian. And he'll need a place to live. You and your parents have to think about all of these important things before you even begin a search for a pony. Let's take a look at some of the normal expenses that will occur when you buy a pony.
The Pony (or Horse)
A pony or horse can cost anywhere from $500 to $10,000 (or more if the pony is a proven show winner!) A pony's price depends on his size, breed and experience. As a rough guide, you should be able to find a good pony that can jump a bit, go trail riding and win you a ribbon or two in a show for around $1000-$1500. Reasonably priced ponies are out there, but you may have to look hard to find them. Once you've found your pony, here are just a few of the essential items that you'll need (all of the prices are approximate - prices can vary depending on where you live.):
Bridle and bit: $75 Saddle: $350 Saddle pad: $25 Tack-cleaning equipment: $10 Grooming kit (brushes; shampoos; combs): $25 Halter: $20 Leadrope: $8 Buckets: $4 each First-aid kit: $30 Shipping boots: $60 Stable blanket: $50 Turnout blanket: $85 Hay: $2.50-$14 a bale depending on where you live. Feed: $8 a bag Salt block: $4 De-wormer: $10
Farrier Costs
Shoeing four hooves: $75
Trimming hooves: $15
Veterinarian Costs
Visit: $25
Yearly shots: $30 Teeth rasping: $30
Stable-Related Costs
Shovel: $12
Wheelbarrow: $25 Pitchfork: $15 Broom: $12 Straw: $3 a bale Shavings: $4.50 a bale Stall mats: $45 each (you'll need several for one stall)
Boarding Costs
If you have to keep your horse at a barn, it'll cost ya!
Self care or pasture board: about $25 a week - you feed and turn out your pony Full board: $350 - the barn staff feeds and turns out your pony
Riding Lessons
Group: $25
Private: $30
Cutting Costs
Sure, owning a pony can cost lots of money, but there are ways to cut costs:
Buy used tack and gear. Look on the bulletin board at your barn or riding school and see if anyone is selling any used tack. A used saddle, if it's been looked after properly, might fit your pony perfectly.
Buy your winter's supply of hay all at once in the early summer from a local farmer. You might have to go pick the bales up off the field, but it will be a lot cheaper.
If you board at a self-care barn, get together with other boarders and when the vet comes, have him treat all of your horses together. He might give you a discount. The same goes for the farrier.
If you board at a barn, you might be able to help out in exchange for a reduced boarding fee. If it saves you money, we bet you won't mind mucking out a few stalls!
Take lessons with a pal or two. Group lessons are always cheaper than individual ones.
Don't clip your horse in the winter. Let him get fuzzy. Then you might not need to buy any blankets.
If you live in an area where flies are a problem, you know it can be difficult to keep the pesky little devils away from your horses. Your barn will probably never be completely fly free, but here are some things you can do to slow down the fly invasion.
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