Animal Shelters and Rescue by David the Dogman The two studies, conducted by Colorado State veterinary epidemiologist Dr. M.D. Salman and sponsored by the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, reveal that moving and other lifestyle issues were the main reasons given by pet owners when surrendering their animals to shelters. But the majority of those pets--64 percent--are euthanized instead of adopted into new homes. The studies also found that the majority of pet owners who surrender their animals to shelters are under 30 years of age and that more dogs are taken to shelters than cats and all other animals combined. "Euthanasia of domestic pets in the United States is an epidemic," Salman said. "These studies give us the first glimpse of why so many pets are entering shelters and what happens once they are surrendered by their owners." About 1,000 shelters in the United States responding as part of Shelter Statistics Survey accepted an estimated 4 million pets each year in 1994, 1995 and 1996. Of those sent to the reporting shelters that participated in the study, about 64 percent--or 8.2 million pets--were euthanized. The survey also revealed that, on average, 42.5 percent of pets that entered animal shelters were submitted by animal control authorities and nearly 30 percent were surrendered by their owners. The remainder were relinquished by other sources. Twenty-four percent, or 3 million, of the animals taken to shelters over the three-year period were adopted by new families. Only 10 percent, or 1.2 million, were reclaimed by their owners. The studies mark the first, large-scale national effort to quantify pet overpopulation in the United States and identify reasons why pet owners relinquish their animals. With this information, the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy hopes to develop strategies to curb the epidemic of pets entering animal shelters. Of the 70 reasons pet owners could cite for relinquishing their pets, 15 percent said their animals were ill or old and needed to be Euthanized; 7 percent said they were moving; 5 percent felt they had too many animals; 4 percent said owning a pet cost too much; and 3.5 percent said the animals had soiled the house. In addition, the majority of respondents--62 percent--were under 30 Years of age and 52 percent had at least finished high school. "Some of the reasons pet owners cited for giving up their pets to shelters may be resolved through educational or other types of programs," Salman said. "Most of the problems are really not with the animals, but rather with pet owners who may not be knowledgeable enough about or prepared for the realities of owning a pet." The council is composed of 11 non-profit and scientific organizations. Members include the American Animal Hospital Association, American Humane Association, American Kennel Club, American Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, American Veterinary Medical Association, Association of Teachers for Veterinary Public Health and Preventative Medicine, Cat Fanciers Association, The Humane Society of The United States, Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, the National Animal Control Association and the Society of Animal Welfare Administrators. Colorado State University's Epidemiology and Animal Disease Surveillance Systems is the scientific co-ordinator for the council. The center is based in the department of environmental health in the College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences. Commitment, Firmness, but kindness. Brought to you by: World Wide Information Outlet - http://certificate.net/wwio/, your source of FREEWare Content online.

Do you have any problems with your pet? Then why not send your problem to DAVID THE DOGMAN. David is a Canine Behaviourist who works and lives in Marbella, Spain. Tel/Fax (00345) 2883388. His web site is located at: http://www.thedogman.net. David has his own radio and TV shows, and writes for many newspapers and magazines. David has been working with dogs for many years and started his career in Israel, working on the Border Police. He has been involved in all forms of training, including air sea rescue, air scent work, and has trained dogs for finding drugs. David has devoted the past 10 years to studying behaviour and the very passive approach. He does not use choke chains, check chains, or any form of aggression.

How Much Does it Cost to Own a Pet?
There's no doubt that owning an animal brings with it some serious bills. Shouldn't you know, before you buy, which animals you can afford to keep? (Info)



There is plenty of information out there about how to care for and train your pet. However, most leave out a very important factor: what it will cost!

The estimates below are expressed in US Dollars and based on prices of food, accessories, and veterinary care in the Pacific Northwest, USA; your expenses may vary. However, they are excellent guidelines. This list covers dogs, cats, rodents, ferrets, fish, birds, amphibians, lizards, snakes, tarantulas, and crustaceans. For each, we discuss the initial cost (when you first buy the pet), and the maintenance cost (which you will pay year-round).

These are also minimum figures -- you can, and are likely to, pay much more for any pet. All animals need toys, bedding, and food, but pampering them with expensive pet beds, multiple cages or kennels, and an abundance or variety of treats, toys, and foods will increase the costs below considerably.

You might also be surprised to see that we've included veterinary costs for pets like frogs and tarantulas. However, it is essential that you budget for these examinations! No animal should be a "throw-away pet," and all should receive proper medical care. Illnesses and accidents are a part of life, and will occur. Even the healthiest pet needs annual vet exams, to catch potential health problems before they become serious (and more expensive to treat). The vet costs below are for general exams, and do not include the more expensive, but less frequent, treatment for illness or injuries.

It's important to keep these figures in mind when checking out that cute little lizard in the pet store, on sale for only $5.99! Thousands of pet owners buy what they consider "cheap" pets, only to find out later that they are paying hundreds of dollars on habitat and vet care. You should also note that the costs listed here are purely money out of pocket, and do not include the amount of time you will need to spend training, cleaning, and interacting with your pet. Time is, after all, money.

DOGS

Initial cost: Bringing home a new puppy will cost you about $335. This includes $10 for puppy food, $150 for shots, $25 for sundries such as collar, lead, tag, and food dishes, $30 for toys, $20 for treats, $20 for grooming supplies, $30 for licensing, and $50 for the puppy itself.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $120 on dog food, $250 on vet bills, $15 on sundries such as collar, lead, and tag, $60 on toys, $130 on treats, $30 on licensing, $70 on medications like flea treatments or ear mite oil, and $55 on a short kennel stay, for an average of $730 per year, or $14 per week.

CATS

Initial cost: Bringing home a new kitten will cost you about $305. This includes $10 for cat food, $100 for shots, $7 for sundries such as collar and tag, $10 for toys, $5 for treats, $15 on grooming supplies, and $30 for the kitten itself.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $75 on cat food, $120 on vet bills, $10 on sundries such as collar and tag, $25 on toys, $25 on treats, $20 on grooming supplies, and $70 on medications like flea treatments or ear mite oil, for an average of $355 per year, or $7 per week.

RODENTS (includes rats, mice, gerbils, hamsters, and guinea pigs)

Initial cost: Bringing home a new rodent will cost you about $55. This includes $20 for a 10 gallon aquarium or small cage, $25 on cage accessories such as bedding and an exercise wheel, and $10 for the rodent itself.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $50 on food, $50 on vet bills, $45 on bedding, and $15 on sundries such as dishes and cage accessories, for an average of $160 per year, or $3 per week.

FERRETS

Initial cost: Bringing home a new ferret will cost you about $205. This includes $100 for an appropriate cage, $25 for cage accessories such as hammock and food dishes, and $80 for the ferret itself.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $100 on food, $150 on vet bills, $45 on bedding, and $15 on sundries such as dishes and cage accessories, for an average of $310 per year, or $6 per week.

FISH (includes freshwater and saltwater)

Initial cost: Bringing home a new fish will cost you at least $100. You can expect to pay $35 for a 10 gallon aquarium with hood and light fixture, $10 on a bulb, $10 on an automatic timer, and $25 on tank accessories like gravel and plants. The larger fish, like catfish and cichlids, will need at least a 40 gallon tank, which can cost about $200. Fish themselves run anywhere from $1 per goldfish to hundreds of dollars for the more exotic species.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $65 on food, $35 on water treatment chemicals, $40 on medication, and $60 for equipment such as filters and cleaning supplies, for an average of $200 per year, or $4 per week.

BIRDS (includes parrots, cockatiels, budgies, and smaller birds)

Initial cost: Bringing home a new bird will cost you at least $350. This includes $50 for a small cage, $25 for cage accessories like food dishes and toys, $250 for the initial vet visit, and between $25 to $2,000 for the bird itself. The larger birds, like macaws and amazons, will need a cage that costs at least $300, and some people spend $2000 or more!

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $300 on food, $350 on vet bills, $100 on toys and treats, and $20 on grooming supplies, for an average of $770 per year, or $15 per week.

AMPHIBIANS (includes frogs, toads, newts, and salamanders)

Initial cost: Bringing home a new amphibian will cost you about $110. This includes $20 for a 10 gallon aquarium, $20 for a light fixture, $10 for a bulb, $10 for an automatic timer, $15 for cage accessories like gravel, branches and plants, $5 for water treatment chemicals, $10 for cleaning equipment like brushes and nets, and $10 for the amphibian itself.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $50 on food, $50 on vet bills, $10 on cage accessories like plants and branches, $15 on water treatment chemicals, and $20 on lamp bulbs, for an average of $145 per year, or $3 per week.

LIZARDS (includes iguanas, monitors, bearded dragons, chameleons, uromastyx, anoles, skinks, and geckos)

Initial cost: Bringing home a new lizard will cost about 10 times the cost of the lizard itself, for a minimum of $100. For smaller lizards, you can expect to pay $20 for a 10 gallon aquarium, $50 on light fixtures and bulbs, $10 on an automatic timer, $25 on cage accessories like branches and plants, and a minimum of $10 for the lizard itself. The larger lizards, like iguanas, monitors, and water dragons will need a cage that costs at least $200, and some people spend $2000 or more.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $300 on food, $350 on vet bills, $10 on cage accessories like plants and branches, $20 on grooming supplies, and $60 on lamp bulbs, for an average of $745 per year, or $14 per week.

SNAKES (includes boa constrictors, pythons, corn snakes, king snakes, and others)

Initial cost: Bringing home a new snake will cost about 10 times the cost of the snake itself, for a minimum of $100. For smaller snakes, you can expect to pay $20 for a 10 gallon aquarium, $50 on light fixtures and bulbs, $10 on an automatic timer, $25 on cage accessories like branches and plants, and a minimum of $10 for the snake itself. The larger snakes, like boas and pythons, will need a cage that costs at least $200, and some people spend $2000 or more.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $300 on prey animals, $150 on vet bills, $10 on cage accessories like plants and branches, and $60 on lamp bulbs, for an average of $520 per year, or $10 per week.

TARANTULAS

Initial cost: Bringing home a new tarantula will cost about $95. You can expect to pay $20 for a 10 gallon aquarium, $20 on a light fixture, $10 on a bulb, $10 on an automatic timer, and $15 on cage accessories like substrate and hidey holes, and a minimum of $20 for the tarantula itself.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $50 on food, $20 on lamp bulbs, and $20 on cage accessories like substrate, for an average of $90 per year, or $2 per week.

CRUSTACEANS (includes hermit crabs and crayfish)

Initial cost: Bringing home a new crustacean will cost you about $93. You can expect to pay $20 for a 10 gallon aquarium, $25 for an undertank heater, $15 for thermometer and humidity gauges, $3 for a misting bottle, $25 for cage accessories like branches and gravel, and $5 for the for crustacean itself.

Maintenance: Each year you will spend about $30 on food, and $10 on cage accessories like branches and sand, for an average of $40 per year, or less than $1 per week.

Contributed by:
Steph Bairey
©2001, Steph Bairey of Practical Pet Care, www.practical-pet-care.com.
Email: zinos@practical-pet-care.com
Website: Practical Pet Care

Is My Child Ready For A Family Pet?
 by: Jennifer Gove

At some point every child asks that all time famous question. “Can I have a pet?” While owning a pet fosters responsibility and compassion, some children are just not ready to help take care of a pet. It is a huge responsibility and one that must be given careful thought.

There are many things you should consider as a family.

What kind of pet?

What kind of pet would fit into your life style best. There are many options from large dogs to little fish. You should carefully consider the needs of each and what you think will fit into you life style as well. The happiest pet is one with happy owners that don’t feel stressed by its care and needs. You should study into types as well as breeds so you know exactly what to expect breeds.

Can you afford the addition of a pet?

Now that you have decided on a type of pet. You need to consider the cost of owning a pet. Pets even if you are given on free are very expensive. If you have a dog or a cat there will be vet visits, food, licensing, toys and supplies and if your pet should become sick there are medications they may need. Owning a pet is very expensive.

Do you have the time?

Animals require attention just like we do as human beings. The need to be feed, groomed, walked, played with. They need to know they are loved. With out proper care they will suffer. Families that are going threw major changes such as a move or birth of a child or that work long hours may just not have the time.

My home

Do you live in an apartment? Is a pet ok with your landlord? Will you have to pay a separate pet deposit? Do you have the space? Is there room in the back yard for a pet to roam? Are there laws in your area regarding scooping and licensing? What are they?

My child

Is he or she ready? Owning a pet is a family matter. Never surprise your child with a pet they are not expecting. Expectations about the pets care and exercise should be laid out clearly. Many children loose interest in a pet after the first few weeks and leave mom and dad to care for the pet. Pets require gentle handling and understanding do you think your child is ready for that? How do they react to animals you see out in public? Are they rough, or afraid? It may be better if they learn some animal care before you add a pet to your home. Visits to the local animal shelter are a wonderful start and often the staff is willing to teach basic animal care to children.

Remember

A pet is a huge commitment. Many pets live for at least 15 years with proper care. Will you still want this commitment then? Puppies, kittens and such are cute, but they grow and have needs that must be met.

About The Author Jennifer is a full time mother of nine children.She resides in a small fishing village on the coast of Maine.She has been married for 12 years to her best friend whom is also her loving husband. You can find many more articles like this one at http://simplymoms.com as well as parenting chat and message forums. zjgim@hotmail.com

Pet Food Recipes

As a pet owner, no doubt you want to give your dog or cat the best care possible. And caring for your pet means feeding him the best diet you can. Animals, because they are color blind, choose their foods by smell. Most dogs like gamely flavors best, as well as liver, fat, garlic, onions, horsemeat, lamb, beef, cheese and fish. Cats enjoy chicken, liver, fish, turkey, lamb, and yeast, and prefer fresh to aged flavors. Remember that cats are fussy eaters and it is not wise to continually feed them their favorite foods. Soon they will refuse to eat anything else; it is your job to see your cat has a balanced diet. Animals do not need salt added to their diet as the natural salt in the food is enough for them. Dogs may eat any vegetable they want, but cats should not have any starchy veggies, like peas and corn. Some dogs and cats even enjoy fruits! It's a good idea to always add a grain, such as Kibble, wheat germ, cooked oatmeal or whole wheat bread to meat dinners. For dogs use 75% carbohydrate foods (grains and vegetables) to 25% meat; for cats use half carbohydrate foods to half meat. You will find, once you begin making your own pet foods, that it is really relatively simple and you will save some money as well. remember that all pet foods should be served at room temperature; don't serve food cold from the refrigerator nor hot from the stove. Incidentally, you should know that cats should be fed three times a day, while an adult dog needs only one meal a day. Here are some pet recipes you can make at home: SAUTEED LIVER Heat 1 teaspoon corn oil in a pan. Add 1/4 pound beef liver and fry on both sides until cooked but not dry inside. Add 1/2 cup water to the pan and mix it up with all the brown bits. For dogs, cut the liver into pieces and serve; for cats, grind the liver in a blender, using the pan juices. CHICKEN SOUP Combine 1 chicken liver, 1 giblet, 1 chicken heart, 1 chicken neck, 2 cups water and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley. Cover and simmer until the giblet is tender. Chop all the meat for dogs removing bones and mix with kibble; for cats, you may want to grind the meat in the blender. VEAL STEW Combine 1/2 pound stewing veal, 1 cup canned tomatoes, 1 cup water, 1 chicken bouillon cube, 1/2 onion (chopped), parsley and a dash of garlic powder in a pot and simmer. When meat is tender, remove all the bones. For dogs, cut the meat in chunks, and mix stew with kibble or some other grain; for cats, grind the stew in blender, adding a tablespoon of wheat germ or 1/2 slice of whole wheat bread. LIVER COOKIES Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Combine 1/2 cup dry milk and 1/2 cup wheat germ; drizzle 1 teaspoon honey on top. Add one 3 1/3 oz. jar of strained liver baby food or homemade blended liver and stir until everything is well mixed. Form the mixture into balls; place them on an oiled cookie sheet and flatten them with a fork. Bake 8 to 10 minutes. Consistency should be fudgy. Store in a jar in the fridge; freeze if keeping more than a few days. LAMB STEW Follow the recipe for Veal Stew, using chunks of lamb instead and leaving out the tomato if desired. MACKEREL DINNER Heat 1 tsp. corn oil in a skillet and fry 1 small mackerel until it flakes apart easily. Remove and cool. Pour 1/2 cup hot water into the pan and scrape the brown bits into it. Remove the bones from the fish and mix with the juice. For dogs, serve in pieces with kibble; for cats, grind with the pan juices. FISH COOKIES Follow the recipe for Liver Cookies but use instead 3 1/2 ounces of mashed and boned mackerel, either canned or freshly cooked. BEEF COOKIES Following the recipe for Liver Cookies, using cooked beef puree instead. DOG MORSELS 2 cups whole wheat flour 2 tsp. garlic powder 2 cups white flour 1 cup skim milk powder 2 eggs water 1/2 cup melted beef or pork drippings (or lard) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Mix ingredients together with enough water to make a stiff dough. Roll out and cut into Christmas shapes. Bake on cookie sheet until hard. KITTY TREATS 1 1/2 cups rolled oats 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup tuna oil, chicken broth or beef bouillon Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Mix all ingredients into a dough. Dust hands with flour and form small, 1/2-inch-thick, round "biscuits". Set on greased cookie sheet. Bake 30 minutes (or until biscuits are slightly browned). Cool 30 minutes before serving. BUDGIE BROWNIES < 1 cup cornmeal 1 tsp. finely ground cuttlebone 1 cup hulled millet 2 tbsp. liquid honey 1/4 cup whole wheat flour 2 eggs 2 tbsp. raw wheat germ 4 egg yolks (for larger birds add 1/2 cup peanuts or coconut) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place all ingredients into a bowl and mix well. Pat into a greased and floured baking dish. Bake for 30 minutes or until firm (if edges start to get too brown, cover with foil). Cool and cut into small squares.                                                                  Copyright © 1996 Deliver Books. All rights reserved.

HOW DO I GET MY FINICKY PARROT TO EAT A BALANCED, NUTRITIONAL DIET - IN SPITE OF HIMSELF?

(4/24/2002 R.S. Hines DVM PhD)

Over the years, the greatest problems I see in pet parrots, macaws, cockatiels and budgies all relate back to nutritionally imbalanced diets based on seeds – all of which are low in a crucial vitamin, vitamin A, as well as other vitamins and nutrients and which contain too much fat. This leads to obesity; lusterless easily damaged plumage, listlessness, increased susceptibility to disease and a shortened life span.

The problem results from your birds’ natural suspicion of new objects and new situations. It may also relate to addictive compounds – possibly lipids (fats) - present in certain seeds (sunflower, safflower, white and red proso millet and peanuts). None of these seeds are part of parrot’s natural diet in the wild. They seem to produce a “high” shortly after they are eaten and depression when they are not available. Just like a mom who prepares a wonderfully nutritious meal for her kids - and then placed a bowl of Snickers bars in the center of the table. Parrots and macaws will go straight for the candy bars and eat them until they are full. I have had so many clients prepare beautiful diets for their birds, only to have their little rascals carefully sort through the mix eating only the portions they like. The problem is worse in hand-fed domestic parrots who may have been fed one, monotonous oil-rich diet during hand rearing or those that were feed the bitter U.S.D.A. corn-based tetracycline-laced diet during quarantine. Birds also choose their diet based on appearance, size, and mouth-feel as much or more than taste. This is why I always suggest that pet birds be feed pelleted diets in which all necessary vitamins; minerals and nutrients are homogenously dispersed. Over the years, more and more reputable pelleted parrot diets have come on the market. Katee Exact, ZuPreem, Roudybush, Mazuri and LaFabers as well as others market them and most can be purchased through my web page.) I am always suspicious of supposedly “unique” formulas that are sold in few locations, contain miracle Swedish ingredients and of any brand, stored in feed store or hot conditions where rat contamination is likely. These diets are best purchased through a large jobber with high turnover so that the products are sold fresh. When a reputable extruded pellet is feed, no other vitamin supplementation is necessary or desirable other than when birds are breeding or in molt (see my article on molt). Too much vitamin A and D are as bad as not enough. However, the addition of antioxidants sprinkled from microcapsules seems to retard disease and prolong life in all species studied. I myself am a guinea pig in one of these studies, The Harvard School Of Medicine’s lifetime study of professional’s eating habits as they relate to longevity and disease.

The best way to convert birds to a pelleted diet is slowly with a lot of patience. I never recommend the “Drill Sergeant” approach. A few brave parrots will eat it immediately but this is not generally the case. Most parrots, macaws and cockatiels are creatures of habit. It is also unwise to force a parrot to switch from seeds to pellets. A lot of pellet companies give helpful suggestions on their packages. Birds can be very stubborn about changes in diet. It's just part of their natural wariness of change of any kind - like new toys, a new cage or a new owner. Basically, try any number of tricks and encouragement: extra feed bowels, crushed pellets, pellets dipped in fruit juice, pellets placed here and there in the cage, etc. Some of the more flashy Nutri Berries that Lafeber Co markets (usually available through my web site) can be helpful. If the bird is already suffering from health problems, (silent heart, liver or obesity-induced respiratory distress or multiple feather stress bars) one must be extra cautious and patient in making the change. Birds with life-threatening health problems should probably be hospitalized during diet change. A healthy parrot should be able to fly 15-20 feet without becoming exhausted, mouth breathing, or having its tail bob up and down. Some suggest placing newly acquired seedeaters in cages alongside parrots, which already are eating pellets. I hesitate to do this because the infectious disease status of birds is often unknown.

Usually, you can just mix the two diets 50-50 and after a month or so the bird will suddenly be eating both. Then gradually decrease the seeds to zero. Or, you may add a topping of brightly colored foods, like “Nutri Berries”, carrot scrapings, diced spinach or purple cabbage (not too much) that will make them boulder about testing the new foods. Or, offer the pellets early in the morning when the birdie is hungriest and the mix later in the day. Or start sprouting the same seeds he is eating now to encourage acceptance of variety. The more sunflower, safflower seed, proso millet and nuts the bird is on now, the more stubborn he will probably be about change. Remember, the color of the bird’s droppings will change on the new diet. Those with red pigments in them could be mistaken for blood in the stool. I prefer pelleted diets preserved with vitamin E, rather than artificial anti-oxidants like B.H.C. or ethoxyquin and brands that have no artificial coloring agents added. Most of the “natural” brands are brown.

For more bird-related advice and the diets, pharmaceuticals and supplements you may need, to keep your pets health and happy, visit Dr. Hines at: http://www.2ndchance.info or write him at: second.chance2@verizon.net

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Dogs From Animal Shelters
by David the Dogman

Often I am asked "Is it better to have a pedigree puppy or get one from the local animal shelter "? I always recommend that one should try to adopt a rescue dog from an animal shelter. These dogs have so much love and companionship and are so easy to train.

Before taking a dog from an animal rescue shelter, it is wise to visit with the whole family and no decisions should take place on the first visit. On the second visit after family discussion and of course making certain that you will not fall foul of any agreements you have with a rented property. Also if you live on a community then it is best to check with the President if dogs are permitted.

To avoid future heartbreak and heavy veterinary bills do insist that a medical certificate is given with your new pet and that your new pet is neutered. If this is not available at the time of collection do not take the pet and return when the medical certificate is ready. Unfortunately many dogs have an assortment of viruses, distemper and Parvo entering the shelter, and local shelters do not always apply quarantine rules before rehoming dogs and cats. This is in the interest of your family and any other pets you may have in the home.

I recommend that as soon as the dog arrives at his new home it is taken out of the car on a leash and walked quietly around the outside area, allowing plenty of time to absorb all the new sights, sounds and smells. A drink of water should be offered as soon as possible..

Introductions to all members of the household should be done whilst still outside in a gentle manner and the dog made to sit before being patted, it is best to start basic obedience immediately. If you have an existing pet it is better to introduce them away from the home, maybe up the road.

Dogs will no doubt want to urinate fairly early in the proceedings. If it performs in an acceptable area then praise is essential. Unfortunately a dog which has been kept in a shelter even for a few days will have learned to relieve itself on a hard floor, so he may well need some housetraining.

The dog should be allowed to inspect the whole house ( still on his leash) and prevented from doing anything undesirable. Lingering slightly in the dogs proposed sleeping area where his basket should have been placed and offering a small food reward is useful.

Possibly the most difficult message to convey to a new owner of a rescue dog is that entering a new environment is stressful and as far as is practicable the dog should be allowed to have time to adjust, but also ensuring that "House Rules" are established and enforced early. If a dog is not going to be allowed to jump on chairs or be allowed in the bedrooms then it should not be allowed from the start.

In my experience providing a regular routine from day one is probably the best way to settle a dog into a new home. Regular walk times, regular meal times, regular fun times with the family, regular settling down.

It takes about 12 weeks for a dog to completely settle into his new home. I always recommend that rescue dogs should be taken to your own vet immediately for worming even though you have a health certificate, and ask your vet for preventative treatment for heart worm and fleas.

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Brought to you by: World Wide Information Outlet - http://certificate.net/wwio/, your source of FREEWare Content online.
Do you have any problems with your pet? Then why not send your problem to DAVID THE DOGMAN. David is a Canine Behaviourist who works and lives in Marbella, Spain. Tel/Fax (00345) 2883388. His web site is located at: http://www.thedogman.net. David has his own radio and TV shows, and writes for many newspapers and magazines. David has been working with dogs for many years and started his career in Israel, working on the Border Police. He has been involved in all forms of training, including air sea rescue, air scent work, and has trained dogs for finding drugs. David has devoted the past 10 years to studying behaviour and the very passive approach. He does not use choke chains, check chains, or any form of aggression.

David The Dogman is available for private consultations in your home, for further details telephone; Tel; (95) 2883388

 

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Lessons From Star: Dealing With The Loss Of A Pet
	Written by: Valerie Zilinsky Web Site:   Raising Our Kids

Lessons From Star: Dealing With The Loss Of A Pet
by Valerie Zilinsky
http://www.raisingourkids.com

Last Christmas, my husband convinced me that it was time to get our children a pet, and to let them learn all the valuable lessons that come along with that experience. It wasn't long before we were welcoming Lucky Star, a 3-month old puppy, into our family and into our hearts.

As my husband anticipated, our children learned quite a bit from having Star around. Our son learned the joys of cleaning up after a pet, and having to take the dog outside in all kinds of weather, day or night. Our daughter learned that she had to put her socks on in her bedroom, and never remove them anywhere near Star, or those socks would quickly become a chew-toy. Both kids learned to clean up their toys more quickly, so that they wouldn't become 'doggie toys'. Our daughter learned how sweet a puppy's kisses can be. Our son learned how a dog can be a boy's best friend when he is mad at the rest of the world. And both kids learned how much fun it is to play with their new "little sister".

But recently, they learned the most difficult lesson in pet ownership, when we had to tell them about the unexpected loss of our dog. Our son, 11 years old, has had a very hard time handling his grief. He has been expressing it in anger, although not directed at anyone in particular. Our 6 year old daughter, on the other hand, has turned to her faith in God and heaven, believing that she will be with Star again someday, and that her puppy is in a happy place. We helped to comfort both of them the best we could, but my husband and I also had to face our own feelings of loss.

Here is some recommended reading on helping children cope with the loss of a family pet:

Rainbow Bridge - http://rainbowsbridge.com/Poem.htm
Death Of A Pet - http://www.petfinder.org/journalindex.cgipath=public/livingwithyourpets/counseling/1.30.1.txt
Pet Loss - Helping Your Child Cope - http://dying.about.com/library/weekly/aa022898.htm
Explaining Pet Loss To Children - http://www.griefhealing.com/article10.htm
Pet Loss - Understanding Grief In Children -
http://www.sniksnak.com/cathealth/grief-children.html
For Every Dog An Angel -
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0965922502/raisingadaughter
Dog Heaven -
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0590417010/raisingadaughter

Although we were all handling our grief in different ways, there was one thing that we were on the same page about... our home just wasn't the same anymore without a dog in it. So the kids and I have had the fun, yet difficult, task of trying to find another dog to bring into our home again. Now, a few weeks later, we haven't been successful yet, but we aren't giving up. I've learned a few lessons myself since we started this new search...

First, I found out the importance of not buying a pet from a "pet store". Rather than try to explain this myself, here are a few places you can visit if you'd like to know why you shouldn't give pet stores your business (be warned - these are heartbreaking, and may be graphic if you explore the sites at all):

http://www.puppymillrescue.com
http://www.kerryblues.org/RESCUE/WHYNOT.HTML
http://yorkieviews.com/puppymills.htm
http://www.hua.org/Prisoners/Puppymills.html

Secondly, I never realized how many pets there are out there already without homes. Take one look at websites like www.Petfinder.org and you'll see what I mean. There are tons of rescue groups (for example, www.brewbeagles.org) and shelters (such as www.MichiganHumane.org), with plenty of lonely animals looking for a family to love.

If you are looking to add a new pet to your family, here are a few articles that are worth reading:

Looking for a dog? - http://www.hua.org/Prisoners/dogs/buying.html
How To Pick A Winner? -http://www.petfinder.org/journalindex.cgi?path=/public/adoption/1.1.27.txt
Pledge For New Dog Adopters - http://www.petfinder.org/journalindex.cgi?path=/public/adoption/1.1.21.txt

Although this past month has been very difficult for us, I would never
change the fact that we became pet-owners, because the right pet can be like a good dose of medicine for a family that is stressed out from a hectic life. And the months of fun, happiness, cuddling, and wet puppy-dog kisses from our Star were well worth it. We will gladly take that journey again when we find the right dog for us.

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Valerie Zilinsky is a mother of two and webmaster of http://www.RaisingOurKids.com, the Internet destination for parents to reach out to each other regarding gender-specific parenting issues. Made up of http://www.RaisingADaughter.com and http://www.RaisingASon.com, the sites provide articles on every stage of childhood as well as an active community area. Visit RaisingOurKids.com for more support on showing your kids that you love them everyday.

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RABBIT AND RODENT TOOTH PROBLEMS AND CARE (03/18/02 R.S. Hines DVM PhD)   Rabbits, which are lagomorphs; and the rest of the rodent clan, are unique in that their teeth grow for the duration of their lives. Teeth are the most important part of a grass-eating animal. Elephants are born with four sets of them. Horses and camels have long tooth shafts imbedded below the gums that continue to move upward throughout life. But rabbits and rodents are the only animals I know of whose teeth are open-rooted and continue to grow throughout their lives. In the wild, where genetics, calcium levels, and constant gnawing occur – the teeth rarely give bunny problems. But in a house-rabbit- setting, teeth can become a life-threatening problem. Proper wear of teeth depends on exact alignment of upper and lower jaws. If the upper and lower incisors (front teeth) are misaligned even one millimeter in immature bunnies, the problem will exacerbate as the animal matures because these teeth grow three to five inches a year! . Soon the molar or cheek teeth become affected due to lack of grinding contact. It can take six months to over a year for you to notice a problem. The scientific name for this problem is malocclusion it’s also called “slobbers”, “wolf” “Scissor toothed” or “buck toothed”. It also mysteriously commonly occurs suddenly in older rabbits. The cause of this is unknown, but could include improper calcium/phosphorous diet ratio, broken molar teeth on the opposite side, kidney disease, and the fact that pet bunnies live so much longer now. The rabbits begin to drool and assume an open-mouthed, startled expression. A wet chin and dewlap are common. If incisor misalignment is caught very early, and treated with proper dental instruments rather than just breaking the teeth off, the problem can often be corrected for the rest of the bunnies life by slightly overcompensating the angle of the misaligned teeth in the opposite direction. It may take several attempts ant 3-4 month’s intervals to accomplish this. Under no circumstances (short of saving a weakened rabbit’s life), should the teeth be clipped with shears or pliers. The teeth have the consistency of glass and shatter – often below the gum line. Some veterinarians and most dentists have the equipment and expertise to smoothly cut the teeth into proper alignment. If the problem is not corrected, the Rabbit looses weight and mouth infections and abscesses occur. Despite my reluctance to administer antibiotics to rabbits, in severe cases it may be required – Particularly when the lower and upper molar teeth have penetrated the opposing gums. Thoughts differ on the use of general anesthetics for this procedure. When they are used, the dangers of the anesthetics far outweigh the dangers of the procedure. The temperament of the individual rabbit is most important, as are the specific teeth involved. Gas anesthetics require a tube in the mouth that obstructs view. When it is necessary, I prefer a very light dose of dissociative anesthetic or “tranquilizer” – one that make the bunny unaware of what is occurring but does not affect respiration. I do not suppose any two veterinarians or dentists use exactly the same techniques – so do not worry if advice differs. I prefer the use of post-operative oral disinfectants to antibiotics because of safety issues. I prefer not to extract teeth unless they are abscessed and devitalized. The bone between the tooth root and the nasal turbinates (passages) is tissue paper thin. I have seen several bunnies and squirrels that have had their incisors extracted and then developed nasal problems. Rabbits and rodents love to gnaw and I find it cruel to deprive them of this activity unless absolutely necessary. Not everyone needs a veterinarian or dentist to correct minor problems. I have four instruments I use for this procedure: A Bell International Medical Hand engine #1670, a Duro 6014470 grinder (no longer available) and a Handi Works Rotary Tool MHW550 (which cost the least and I like the best). Adapter collets are available at Wal-Mart. I purchase my mandrels and Aluminum Oxide cutting discs from Henry Schein Inc. (Faskut 8 7/8”x0.025, Dentisply, York PA and Faskut Mandrel #989001 respectively) . It cuts the teeth off perfectly. I saw similar aluminum oxide Dremmel accessories at Wal-Mart last month but I have not tried them. . I try to get the bunny used to the wine of the motor and have it steadily restrained in a wrapped beach towel by one person and another person with a steady hand (me) , wearing glasses, and his elbow steadying him on the counter makes the cut. Be sure to grasp the cut off teeth with a forceps before the rabbit swallows them! Dip the edge of the cutting disc in water from time to time to keep it cool but don’t let the mandrel become wet. The bottom incisor teeth of rabbits are double - so both must be cut off about 1/4 inch above the gum line. If the gums bleed, the teeth were cut too short. I have seen quite a few rabbits and guinea pigs and rats that not only had curling incisors (front teeth) but also curling molars (back teeth). This week, I had a 100 lb capybara come in with the same problem. If the rabbit still can’t close it’s mouth and has a kind of gaping expression after the incisors are fixed, one needs to examine the molars too. I do this with a Popsicle stick, nasal speculum, or, when I’m in a brave mood, do it with my little finger. If these back teeth are overgrown they are much harder to cut and the buccal (outer) edge of the tooth can be razor-sharp. . To correct these requires medical instruments called rongures and dental files. Because it is quite uncomfortable to the bunny it is best done at a veterinarian’s office under a little dissociative anesthetic (or gas). The bone between the tooth root and the nasal turbinates (passages) is tissue paper thin. I have seen several bunnies and squirrels that have had their incisors extracted and then developed nasal problems. Be sure to keep chew toys available for all your bunnies and rodents. For my personal bunnies, and agoutis, my favorite, it’s the base of deer and elk antlers or a cement parrot perch, with creamy peanut butter rubbed into it. Next best, I like hard-rock maple dowels and squares hanging from cords. Floor-grade, unvarnished red oak scraps are extremely hard and easily available – it is said to contain tannins that can be harmful to rodents but I have never seen problems identifiable to this. Any lumber that is greenish (impregnated with arsenic and salt) should not be used. If your breeder pairs consistently produce litters with this problem, your calcium/vitamin D ratios in the diets are off or they are genetically predisposed to the problem. It is also thought that tooth or jaw trauma in the pups can misalign the teeth. For more Bunny advice and the diets, pharmaceuticals and supplements you will need, to keep them healthy, visit Dr. Hines at: http://www.2ndchance.info or write him at second.chance2@verizon.net

Your Child's Goldfish ~ easy, inexpensive care ~ Written by: Stephanie Olsen Web Site:   Family Life Abroad   Goldfish are popular starter pets for children and a good parental choice when it comes to budget and time considerations, although you should take note that goldfish can grow to be anywhere from 6 to 12 inches and may live for as long as 10 years. Getting Ready The day before you take your child to the pet shop, fill clean buckets with 10 gallons (that's 16 quarts or nearly 40 liters) of water so that it has 24 to 48 hours in which to allow chlorine, lead and any other toxins to evaporate and in order that the water is room temperature. Goldfish can survive in a wide range of temperatures, from above 50 to below 80 degrees Fahrenheit (that's 10 and 27 degrees Celsius respectively). It's the sudden change in temperature that kills them. Add about 2 teaspoons per gallon of uniodized table salt (the big crystals, not the fine stuff from your saltshaker). What to look for Remember to look for a lively fish when choosing, and to stay away from tanks with any obviously sick fish in them. If the owner catches the fish without a net, either by scooping or using his hand, that's a sign that you're dealing with a professional. Fish have a slimy protective coat (that's why they feel so slippery in your grasp) and using a net can cause damage to this surface. The Aquarium If you've got a spare 10 - 20 gallon size aquarium at home, that's great. If not, any similar size waterproof container will do as long as it's got enough surface room for the fish to breathe. Standard glass fishbowls are inappropriate as they are obviously too small; furthermore, they do not provide enough oxygen: every inch of fish (head and body measure) needs 20 square inches of surface (multiplying the length and width of your container will give you the area, so a 12" x 8" rectangular tank has a total surface area of 96 sq in., enough for a fish four inches in head/body length). Put the tank near a window so it gets plenty of indirect sunlight. A cover (which can be foil loosely placed over top) helps keep out dust and also keeps an active fish in! Sand or gravel bottoms look nice, but make work in that they must be cleaned. If you have a clear aquarium, just put a placemat under it and you'll have an instant sea floor or sandy base. A little mirror propped up on the outside of the tank will give your fish "company". Clean Water means a Healthy Goldfish Change the water every second day, replacing the old with water that's been aged and salted. It just takes a minute and means that you don't have to buy a filter or air pump - a substantial savings. Scoop your fish out of the aquarium in a holding pail, dump the dirty water from the aquarium, rinse a few times, re-fill and return the goldfish. Feed Sparingly and Wisely Soak the food you buy from the pet shop so that it sinks to the bottom of the tank when you feed your goldfish. Feed a tiny amount every time you change the water and, if you like, supplement that with some plants you find growing wild in fresh water rivers and ponds such as anacharis (which is probably the most common aquarium plant and readily available in any pet store). Have Fun You and your child will not only have fun but will learn together while caring for your little golden water creature. And I'll bet you'll name her "Goldie"!      .