Neutering/spaying your rabbit.
Why Neuter/Spay?
Rabbits are social creatures, they love the company of another rabbit, and given that many people believe it’s ok to have a rabbit housed outside it will be a lonely life for that rabbit. Therefore it is always best to house rabbits in pairs or groups.
To be able to do this, and to avoid accidental litters rabbits need to be spayed/neutered.
Female rabbits have an 85% chance of contracting uterine and other reproductive cancers, spaying prevents this.
Rabbits can be controlled by their hormones, this can make them aggressive and territorial, having them ‘fixed’ calms them significantly and they can lead a calmer much happier life. Many rabbits end up living a lonely life and can become bored and develop behavioral problems, having another rabbit as company increases their quality of life.
Is it safe to neuter/spay rabbits?
The risk is higher with small animals when it comes to anesthetics say, compared to a cat or dog.
However these days’ anesthetics are much safer Isofluorene is commonly used.
What age should I neuter/spay?
Male rabbits can be neutered no younger than 4 months of age, females ideally 6 months of age, if a male and female rabbit are living together separate them at 3 months of age to avoid the chances of them breeding, mistakes are often made when sexing rabbits (even by vets and pet shops), this cuts that risk down.
You must have them living side by side so they can still see each other, this helps greatly when re-introducing them once they are over their operation.
How do I choose a good small animal vet?
As said above it is very important that you choose a vet that is experienced with rabbits, there is no point in taking the rabbit to a large animal vet etc. unless they specify that they have experience with exotics.
Phone around; ask questions before choosing a vet you feel comfortable with. Here are some questions which should be asked.
Ø Do you regularly have rabbits both male and female in for neutering/spaying? – Answer should be yes
Ø Should I fast my rabbit before taking him/her in for his/her operation? – Answer should be no, rabbits should never be starved.
Ø Have you an area in your surgery that is quiet and away from noisy animals where your rabbit can recover in peace with little stress - Answer should be yes
Ø Will you be providing my rabbit with a heat pad or similar to keep them warm after their op –Answer should be yes
Ø Will my rabbit receive a pain killing injection – Answer should be yes, a rabbit in pain may not eat and can deteriorate quickly
Ø Will my rabbit have a buster collar on after the operation – Answer should be yes, most rabbits will try and pick at their stitches
What should I do before my rabbit goes in for his her neuter/spay?
Make sure all your rabbit’s vaccinations and worming etc are up to date. Some vets will do a health check just before the operation but it is best to go in a couple of weeks before hand so the vet can give the rabbit a thorough health check.
Don’t change the rabbit’s routine. If your rabbit gets stressed in the car or carrier then it might be a good idea to take your rabbit for a very short spin once a day and gradually build it up so the animal gets more used and relaxed when traveling.
A cat carrier with a metal door is best and secure.
You can add a dab of lavender oil on the outside of the carrier, and two drops of rescue remedy in the water bottle starting from the day before.
What should I do with my rabbit after his/her operation?
It is important to get your rabbit back to familiar surroundings as soon as possible after their op.
They must be kept indoors for the entire time of their recovery. Keep the animal warm, Snuggle Safe heat pad and vet bed are excellent for any ill or recovering animal.
Keep the rabbit confined to a small area to avoid splitting stitches, a dog crate is excellent for this purpose.
Encourage your rabbit to eat and drink straight away, offer them their favourite treats.
If your rabbit has not eaten or drank within 12 hours you must take them back to the vets.
It can be awkward for them to master eating with the buster collar so they might require some help; they usually get used to it and manage themselves after a day or two.
Stitches are taken out after 10 days. Leave the buster collar on for one more day if possible, as the area can be a little itchy.
What’s the best bedding to use?
Nothing beats good old fashioned (and cheap) newspaper, however to make your rabbit extra comfortable and to keep the wound area clean I highly recommend vet bed, it’s excellent, reusable/washable and safe.
Never use straw or woodchips use hay.
Care Fresh bedding litter, although expensive, is also a good general bedding.
Rabbits also love soft cat beds to hide and sleep in.
The cost?
Rabbits are not a low maintenance pet, they require large housing especially if not living as a free- range house bunny.
The right veterinary care does not come cheap. You can expect to pay anything up to 75 Euro per rabbit for their spay or neuter, but it can be much more, vet charges vary. This does not include their pre op health check, their previous vaccinations and worming etc.
Before you consider getting a rabbit you must weigh up the costs involved, there is now rabbit insurance in Ireland however do be prepared for unexpected bills.
Don’t forget to have your rabbit vaccinated against VHD as well as Myxomatosis (leave 2 weeks between each vaccination).
Can you recommend any vets?
We have a list of veterinarians that deal regularly in exotics, please contact us cavycare@eircom.net for a vet in your area or if you have a vet you would like to recommend.
What’s a good combination?
Generally people put a neutered male and spayed female together.
Male/male or female/female combinations are also possible if neutered.
Some rabbits bond straight away generally it takes more time, be prepared however, sometimes rabbits can have personality clashes and may not get on, you have to be prepared to have enough space and housing for the two or more rabbits you have should they fall out or not hit it off.
For more detailed information on neutering, rabbit introductions and general care visit http://www.rabbit.org/faq/index.html
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RABBITS AND GUINEA PIGS - WHY THEY ARE A BAD COMBINATION.
On the rare occasion that we take in rescued guineapigs looking for new homes we have a strict rule that we do not rehome guinea pigs and rabbits if they are to live together.
Our rules are guinea pigs stick with guinea pigs and rabbits with rabbits. Visit this link to know why we don't approve of this practice wether they get on well together or not.
http://www.oginet.com/pgurney/rabbits.htm no exceptions.
