A quick guide to photopolymer printmaking
For more detail go to the
BEGINNERS COMPENDIUM
and INTAGLIO MANUAL
and the websites of the following experts
Keith Howard, Munch's Scream Missing, 2006
4 Colour Intaglio Type 32 x 48 inch (hand printed with 8 plates)
The Film
Most
printmaking suppliers stock photopolymer
film such as ImagOn and ZAcryl film (see PRINTMAKING RESOURCES). You may also want to research your own source of
circuit board film - it may well be suitable for the process.
Artwork
Use
any kind of black or tonal artwork created on a clear transparency. A
wide range of positives is suitable for the process: use a photocopier,
inkjet printer or laser printer for reprographic stencils. The more
opaque the marks the better, you may double up copies to obtain a
better transparency. Follow expert instructions on how to make high
definition transparencies (websites listed at the bottom of the page). Alternatively paint and draw on Mylar using waterproof felt-tip pens, crayons, acrylic, or toner washes.
METHOD
Prepare the plate as follows:
- Evenly
sand a metal plate/ thin PETG or Plexi plate, or similar
- De-grease the plate with dish soap or Comet
- Rinse well then dry
- Cut a
piece of film slightly larger than the plate
- Peel back the soft layer
of clear Mylar (use a piece of sticky tape as an aid)
- Sandwich the
plate between sheets of newsprint, cover with opaque smooth paper, and
run through the press, preferably twice
- The emulsion is heat and
pressure sensitive so heat the plate now
with a hairdryer or heat gun on the low setting or use a lightfast
drying cabinet
- Immerse the
plate and film in a water bath then squeegee for the best lamination
- Trim
the plate edges with a blade or scissors
METHOD
Expose the plate as follows:
Aquatint screen exposure (non-etch)
- Turn
on the Exposure Unit.
- Place the plate with the emulsion facing the
light source on the bed
- Cover with a suitable random dot aquatint
screen (see AQUATINT SCREEN)
- Expose for about 10 to 15 Light Units; this should yield a good black.
If in doubt use the Howard testing method for exact determination of
the screen exposure (The Contemporary Printmaker, Write Cross Press
2003).
- Close the lid of the exposure unit and engage the vacuum pump
- Press start to expose
The light exposure will now convert the
semi-liquid monomers of the acrylic polymer emulsion into hard plastic.
All areas that are covered by marks will stay soluble and will wash
away during the development process. In a sense the process equates to
traditional acid etching of a metal plate, only in this instance it is
the polymer emulsion that is being eroded to create the intaglio
printing surface.
Image Exposure
After following the steps outlined above, remove the aquatint screen and repeat the procedure at a slightly lower
setting for your artwork (about 7 to 10 Light Units tends to work
well). A homemade set up using photo floods would require longer
exposure times, say 5 minutes for the screen and 3 minutes for the
image.
Halftone
If your transparency is a halftone made especially for this process no aquatint screen exposure is required (about 7 to 10 Light Units tends to work well).
METHOD
Develop the plate as follows:
The
standard developer for photopolymer films consists of a mild solution
of sodium carbonate in water.
- Make up the developer using a ratio of 10g of sodium carbonate
crystals per 1 liter of water - this has been successful in many print shops.
Always make sure there is ample developer in the bath, say 5 liters or
1½ gallons. This ensures that plates develop well. Plates tend to
be under-developed if there is an insufficient volume of developer in relation
to the surface of the plate. Follow Keith Howard's advice on making up
a developer and testing the water for perfect results.
- Place the
plate face-up in the bath and develop for 9 minutes. If you decide to
agitate the plate or brush it with a sponge development will be quicker
but more intuitive. A slightly under-developed plate can always be proof
printed and then redeveloped for perfect results.
- After 9 minutes
rinse the plate with water, then spray with a mild vinegar solution to stop development and stabilize the plate.
- Now, quickly blot the
plate then blow dry it until the plate surface feels hard
METHOD
Print the plate as follows: RIT grad students registering an ImagOn plate
Bevel the plate (very thin plates may not require
bevelling) - Print the plate in the usual intaglio manner using oil-based etching ink or the new Akua waterbased intaglio inks (these are easier to wipe). After squeegeeing on the ink use scrim (tarlatan) to remove the bulk
of the ink. Then do most of your wiping with
newsprint or yellow pages, using a flat wiping action. All or most of the ink should be removed
from the surface making the image fully visible against the blue
polymer surface. Make sure you clean the underside of the plate as well
the edges to ensure a clean print.
RIT grad students registering an ImagOn plate
NEW METHODKeith Howard's new "upside-down" method
of printing transparent plates using waterbased ink, allows for perfectly registered full color intaglio prints (see PERFECT REGISTRATION).