There are two distinct types of target shooting that we do in the OJRC: Smallbore and Fullbore. One is short-range, usually indoor and with small calibre rifles; the other is over longer distances, outdoors and with bigger rifles. Fullbore is the one where we tend to get wet (or sunburned).

While smallbore shooting is very precise it is usually not subject to the same variables as fullbore shooting and so the two offer quite different challenges. At Bisley we shoot over distances of 300, 500, 600, 900 and 1000 yards using rifles of .308" calibre. Aiming is achieved by means of iron, 'peep-hole' sights at the fore and rear of the rifle and a separate spotting 'scope is ususally used to help us see where our shots have gone.

  A Fullbore Rifle

Target Rifle is, like other target disciplines, a sport about precision. Using rifles that fire only one shot at a time, target shooters lie face down (prone), usually on a mat, and fire a series of shots at a circular aiming mark some distance away. Not allowed any contraption to steady the rifle, the firer wears a special, supportive jacket and a sling around one arm to help him keep his rifle as steady as possible.

After each shot is fired the target is marked so that the firer can see clearly where his shot fell and what value it scored. Judging the prevailing conditions and noting where his last shot fell, the firer must then try to make such adjustments to his rifle's sights as would make the following shot hit the target's centre, its 'bull'.

Target Rifle is open to everyone of good character and there are competitions for individuals as well as for teams. This is one sport in which the British Isles can honestly claim to be world class.

This is where it all happens. Many clubs have access to local ranges for the purposes of smallbore shooting but there are few venues in the UK where fullbore shooting can take place. Bisley in Surrey has long been the home of shooting in Britain and serves as the Mecca for shooters from around the world.

The governing body of fullbore Target Rifle is the National Rifle Association and, along with its smallbore counterpart (NSRA), is headquatered at Bisley. Here also are the ranges that hosted all the shooting disciplines in the 2002 Commonwealth Games.

Throughout the fullbore season Bisley plays host to the majority of Target Rifle matches and each July, for about a fortnight, hosts the major international competitions known as the 'Imperial Meeting'. Many clubs are based at Bisley and the NRA has a museum of shooting that is well worth a visit. While the journey may be prohibitively long for many people to make regular visits it is almost certain that you will visit at least once if you involved with shooting for very long.

The OJRC can often by found in the Surrey Rifle Association club house during the summer months. This club is one of the few at Bisley that operate all year round and is responsible for organising most of the matches in our calendar.

The Basics

If you've tried Target Rifle and think you would like to splash out on some kit then you will need a few basic bits and pieces; you don't really need everything at this stage. You will need:

• A Shooting Jacket. A top-of-the-range jacket can cost upwards of £400 but if you can find a second-hand jacket that is in good condition and fits you well, then save yourself the money. A good jacket should not be tight or uncomfortable but should be restrictive enough not to allow you to touch your elbows together. The jacket should have padded elbows with rubber grips so as to prevent your position slipping during the shoot.
• A Spotting 'Scope. Try to buy the best one that you can afford and don't overlook the 'scope stand (quality here will count for a lot). An angled eye-piece is usually seen as having the advantage over a straight eye-piece and a wide-angle lens will provide a better view of neighbouring targets.
• Shooting Mat. This provides protection from damp grass and gives a steady, gripping surface for your elbows.
• Sling, Glove, Hat, Shooting Box, Ammo Box, Bar Towel, Score Book, Cleaning Kit, Ear Defenders. These are cheap enough and will help no end.

Some More Advanced Options

• Spirit Level. Attached to the Foresight this ought to eliminate the problem of cant.
• Weather Proofing. Not just for you but for your rifle; a bar towel won't keep things dry forever - sooner or later you will want to invest in a range of specially made waterproof add-ons.
• Collapsable Chairs. Particularly if you are involved in teams, you may find yourself sitting around for ages (coaching, register-keeping, plotting etc.) and a chair is significantly better than sitting on the ground (though it means you will have more to carry).
• A 'Scope Stand Extension. For when you venture into coaching.
• Tool Sets. These can be costly, especially if you buy things like torque wrenches but they are a good long term investment.
• Mirage Bands. Oddly, not that frequently used in the UK but if you're touring in a particularly sunny country this may prove helpful (the same thing goes for glare tubes).

The Rifle

Some of the best shooters around today are using rifles that are twenty or thirty years old. A brand new, all singing, all dancing rifle may not be the best for you. You should buy a good-quality, second-hand rifle and get used to looking after it properly before spending thousands on a rifle that won't see the necessary maintenance. Swings and Paramounts are good makes and come in a variety of prices. Older rifles may be more questionable but look out for bargains. The kids today are buying Barnards and System Geminis but talk to a few people and try to decide on which rifle is best for you.

Individual Shooting

When you are not a part of a team there is a lot to do and a lot to remember. Try to leave time for tackling any problems that you might encounter – without a captain or an adjutant you will have to take care of everything yourself.

Find out from the range office which is your target (if you are shooting in a competition or series of competitions then the organisers will have booked the targets and will often be able to tell you all your range details in advance).

Check your kit and especially your rifle in the armoury before you head down to the range – this will give you a chance to address any problems and not be caught out on the firing point where you may not have the necessary equipment to fix things.

When you reach the range, wait to be told by the Range Officer that you can ‘dress forward’ before you put anything on the firing point. Then put your 'scope down first, align it with the target and set up the rest of your kit around it. Before you lie down you should prepare your score diagram and ensure that your sights are set for the correct distance. Make sure you have with you a shooting mat; a jacket (wear it if it’s too much to carry); a 'scope; a score book with appropriate score diagrams; ammo (unless it is issued on the firing point); one or two pounds in loose change (in case you decide to ‘challenge’ the score that you have been given); a glove; a hat (if you use one) and ear defenders.

Consider what other kit you might need. You are already carrying quite a bit and if you want to carry much more then you may need a kit-bag. Other useful odds and ends would include a full set of waterproofs; a jumper; spare pencils; allen keys; screwdriver; Nurofen; a variety of foresight elements and possibly even a torque wrench. At any moment something might go wrong with your rifle or other kit but it is impractical to carry a full armourer’s tool kit so keep everything in good condition and check it thoroughly before leaving for your shoot and you should be all right with just a basic couple of tools.

When competing as an individual you will usually share a target with two other competitors. You should leave enough room for you new friends on the firing point and should always check that they are ready to proceed before you start shooting. You will keep score for each other and fire alternate shots, with the shooter on the right firing the first shot. When waiting for the competition to start, you must not load your rifle – do this only when the Range Officer says that you may proceed.

You should be set up on the firing point so that you are naturally pointing at the target and can easily see through your spotting 'scope without too much movement (here is where the angled eye-piece comes in handy). When the rifle is in the shoulder the sling should be doing all the work of supporting the weight – if you are exerting muscular effort to keep your aim on target, then you are doing something wrong.

The aim is for consistency – minimal movement of your position; careful trigger release and a good shooting rhythm. Unlike team shooting you will have to keep your own score diagram; judge the wind; adjust your own sights and keep score for one of your fellow shooters. This means that, unlike smallbore shooting, you would probably benefit from resting the rifle between shots; just be sure to keep the elbow of your supporting arm (i.e. your left elbow if you are a right-handed shot) fixed where it is – inconsistency here would be disastrous.

When aiming at your target remember that your first sight picture is usually your best – don’t take too long over a shot or you will ruin it (in some competitions there is a 45 second time limit for each shot but you should try to fire within 5 to 7 seconds of taking aim). Centre the black, circular aiming mark of the target in the foresight and the foresight in the rearsight. The rearsight is too close to focus on and the target is too far away so focus on the foresight. Breathe normally but just hold your breath briefly on an outward breath when you take your shot.

When the target goes down for marking, unload your rifle, take a look at what the flags are doing (NB – are they saying the same thing as they were when you last looked? or might the shot you just fired have been affected by a change in the wind?) and if you had changed your sights prior to taking the last shot then be sure to make an appropriate note in your score diagram. When your target comes up, have a look through your spotting 'scope and note on your diagram the value of the shot and where it fell. If you have time it may be useful to plot an elevation graph and in strong wind or at long range a wind graph may also be helpful.

Team shooting is soooo much easier as you have a lot less to worry about. You are still responsible for your own kit so make sure it is all ready to go before the shoot. You may not need your score book but make sure you know your range ‘zeros’ if you intend to leave your book behind. You can also usually get away with leaving your 'scope behind.

If you aren’t used to coaching then you may be expected to help out in other ways when you are not firing. This can be by helping the coach (as ‘plotter’ or ‘sub-coach’ responsible for keeping score, plotting the fall of shot, plotting graphs and recommending elevation changes) or by ‘register keeping’ (i.e. being an official score-keeper for another team).

The best thing about team shooting has to be that you can concentrate wholly on the shooting – in some teams the coach will even load your rifle for you. Your adjutant should check with you that your sights are set properly for each distance. You don’t need to worry about adjusting your sights during the shoot or about what the wind is doing. You don’t need to know where your last shot went or what it scored. You don’t need to know how many shots you have left to fire. All you need to do is focus on firing the best shot you can.

Keep your kit tidy behind the firing point; make yourself useful to your captain and adjutant and be ready to shoot as soon as your turn comes. If there is a drastic change in the wind and the firers on the point have been stopped by their coaches in the middle of their shoots then another firer, further down in the order, may be called-up to fire one of his ‘sighters’ (i.e. one of his two non-scoring shots) in order to determine what the wind is doing.