This
page is here to help you understand the basic needs of your pet rat. It
contains information on health, tendencies, socialization, habitats,
nutrition and toys. It is good to use as a refresher if you already own
a rat, or as a source of research if you are considering adopting. I am not a veterinarian, but if you have any questions, comments or concerns about proper rat care, feel free to contact me. I'd be happy to give my personal opinions and recommendations based on my experiences! Likewise, if you have any info that you think may be
helpful, or any questions regarding rat care, please contact me!
Note:
*The information on this page is written and edited by Ashley Kayser,
Co-founder and Breeder at The Dumbo Tree Rattery. The care tactics
explained here do not necessarily represent the care of all of the rats here at the rattery.
The scientific name
for our pet rat is Rattus Norvegicus and it originated in central Asia. Rats
have been domesticated as far back as the 17th century. This has continued to
the present day, resulting in many breeds and varieties of excellent pet
quality.
Professional and hobbyist breeders
are trying to breed the tumors and other potential health problems out of
pet rats. Inbreeding has tremendously shortened the life span of our
domesticated pet rats. Line breeding can improve temperament, markings and
health and is acceptable for 4 generation at the most then an unrelated,
healthy, out cross should be used.
| Rat Age | Human Age |
| 6 weeks | 10 years |
| 6 months | 16 years |
| 1 year | 30 years |
| 1.5 years | 38 years |
| 2 years | 45 years |
| 3 years | 60 years |
| 4 years | 75 years |
Rats have a gestation period of 21 days. They are weaned between 3 and 4 weeks of age, although it's a good idea to keep the mother with the babies until they are 5 weeks old. When breeding rats, you want the parents to be mature and healthy. Rats are full grown at 6 months of age. Females can be bred until they are 1.5 years old. Males can breed until they are no longer physically able, but it's best to keep the sires under 2 years of age. Remember, when left to their own devices, animals normally breed while they are in the prime of their lives. So, don't breed your rats too early or too late because it is simply unhealthy (and sometimes life threatening) for the parents and offspring- just as it can be for humans as well!
Body temperature: 99.5 degrees F to 100.6 degrees F.
Optimum room temperature: 68 degrees F to 78 degrees F.
Average body length: 8 inches (not including tail).
Average weight: Female = 7 to 12 oz. and Male= 14 to 20 oz.
Rats use all of their senses to communicate with each other. Vision is their weakest sense because they are mostly color blind and nearsited. They have an excellent sense of smell. They also have superior hearing and communicate with each other with sounds beyond the human range of hearing.
Because rats are nocturnal, they haven’t evolved to endure heat. Rats can't sweat or pant to cool themselves. Instead they use their tails as heat releasers, sending more blood to the skin surface to cool themselves down. Rats should be indoor pets only, especially wherever the weather gets above 90 degrees. If the weather turns hot and your house isn't air-conditioned, you'll need to take precautions to keep your rats cool.
Rats are pretty tolerant of cold if they have plenty of warm bedding, but if your power goes out and the temperature is going to be close to freezing, you might need to take special steps to keep your rats warm.
Be on the look out for:
Porphyrin is a red discharge from a rat's nose or eyes, sometimes confused with blood. It is produced in glands behind the rat's eyes. Overproduction of this discharge can be caused by stress or illness.
Diarrhea is caused by poor diet, stress, unclean housing or other illness.
Bumblefoot (ulverative pododermatitis) is
a bacterial infection caused by irritation that occurs on the
bottom of rats' feet, usually on the heel. It usually
first appears a reddish swelling which can progress into a yellowish
crusty scab. The scabs can break open and bleed. This is very
painful, as you can imagine. The best care for bumblefoot is
preventing it from occurring in the first place. If you use a wire
cage, cover the wire bottoms (usually with some sort of plastic or
vinyl covering that is easy to clean) so your rats do
not have to directly walk on the metal. Also, if you use a hard bedding
(such as wood pellets or corn cob) it is a good idea to use a
soft bedding with it in order to make it more comfortable to walk
on (such as wood pulp fiber, ex. Carefresh or Softsorbent). If your rat
does have bumblefoot, it is imperative to keep the cage clean.
The two most common health problems are respiratory infections and tumors. If you notice either or those or any of the symptoms above, getting your rat to a veterinarian immediately is advised. The most common injuries in rats are scratches and lacerations (usually minor). As long as they aren't serious, applying a topical antibiotic to prevent infection is all that is needed.
Mycoplasma pulmonis (a.k.a. myco) is probably the most common health problem for pet rats. Virtually every rat has been exposed to it, although some have higher resistance to the bacteria than other. Some rats will never have an active myco infection, while others will have chronic myco their entire lives. Myco is a serious health problem that needs to be treated immediately. Some ways to help prevent or ease myco infections: use a bedding with as little dust as possible (never use cedar or pine); clean cages and change bedding often; don't expose rats to dramatic temperature changes; keep them in a suitably sized habitat; feed them a well-balanced diet; offer plenty of mental stimulation.
Megacolon is a condition where the nerves to the large intestine do not work properly, so the rat has trouble moving his bowels. The rat's colon becomes backed up with the feces and the stool becomes larger than normal & also dries out, causing problems in passing stool & severe bloating. This is probably very painful (as you can imagine) and eventually will result in death from malnutrition or bacteremia. Megacolon is prevalent in rats with high-white markings.
Head tilt (a.k.a. wry neck) is usually an indication of an ear infection. If that is the case, the head tilt will go away after antibiotic and anti-inflammatory treatment is started, however, sometimes the head tilt will remain for the rest of the rat's life. If an ear infection is not the cause, it could be: pituitary tumor (no treatment, although anti-inflammatory drugs may help prolong life) or stroke (no treatment, although anti-inflammatory drugs may help prolong life).
Sendai is a highly contagious virus that can lead to deadly secondary infections. It is believed that colonies infected with Sendai continue to carry the disease (and therefore, always a threat to uninfected rats)... however, this is not a certainty. This virus doesn't have any clear symptoms, but the presence of pneumonia symptoms & fatalities is a sign that there might be Sendai. Other signs: sneezing, porphyrin discharge from nose and eyes, hunched posture and labored breathing. The only way to know for sure if there is Sendai is to have an ELISA test done on one of your rats. If the virus is detected, a complete and thorough quarantine is absolutely necessary to try to contain the virus and stop it from spreading.
Sialodacryoadenitis (a.k.a. SDA) is also a highly contagious virus that can lead to deadly secondary infections. SDA itself does not kill rats, but it does however destroy the rat's natural immunities for a week and allow secondary infections (such as myco) to flare up. SDA incubates for 5-10 days and is distinguished by two symptoms: swollen lymph nodes (especially in the throat) and bulging and/or ulcerated eyes. A rat that has been exposed to SDA can still shed the virus after all symptoms have subsided. There is no treatment for SDA because it is a virus, which means that it needs to run its course. It is very important to treat the secondary infections, especially respiratory infections, as soon as you know that your colony has been exposed. If the virus is detected, a complete and thorough quarantine is absolutely necessary to try to contain the virus and stop it from spreading.
Rats are prone to also tumors.
There are two main types of tumors: benign and malignant. Benign tumors
are usually encapsulated in a membrane (separate from nearby tissues)
and therefore, easy to remove. However, they do have a tendency to
reappear at a later date. Benign tumors don't metastasize (spread to
other areas of the body). Although benign tumors can grow so large that
the rat has difficulty moving, eating and performing
normal body functions. Malignant tumors (cancer) will usually
invade and damage nearby tissues, and also metastasize. Death is caused
by the failure of damaged organs. Since malignant tumors intertwine
with normal tissues, surgery is nearly impossible in rats. Euthanasia
is normally the only alternative.
Rats are extremely charismatic animals who make great companions for humans because they are willing to give their love and affection to us if we offer it to them. They are small, clean, intelligent, quiet, social and easy to take care of. Most rats are nocturnal (active at night and sleeping during the day), but they are more than happy to play with you at any given time of the day.
When a rat ginds their teeth, it is a sign of contentment. Their head with vibrate slightly as they grind their teeth. Sometimes, they will close their eyes a little or all the way. They do this when they are relaxed and happy, so feel flattered if your rat chooses to do this while you are interacting. Tail swishing is a sign of excitement when they are playing. You may notice it while they are on your shoulder and you end up with a tail in your face. Your rat thinks that they are playing with you. Rats use squeaks to communicate, but most of their sounds cannot be heard by humans. Some rats are more noisy than others; this is simply a personality trait.
Most rats are silent until they are disturbed. They sqeak when they are annoyed or defensive, and screech when hurt or terrified. Some may even make a hissing or clicking noise. A rat that is chattering (a loud clicking noise) is usually annoyed at another rat. A rat that is very aggressive will puff out their hair and arch their back. If the rat is frozen in place with their tail shivering, shaking, or slapping the floor in quick movements, they are very angry, threatened or afraid. While fighting, the rats may push their shoulders against the other's as a test of strength before more violent fighting begins. They may also stand up on their hind legs and use their arms to box.
Rats groom themselves and each other so much that they are almost odorless. Rats don't need to have their teeth cleaned and they rarely need to be given baths. Occasionally, you can clean your rat with pet wipes or dust. Their hair can be brushed as often as needed to help with appearances. You may need to keep their nails trim if their regular activity does not keep them short.
If your rat is especially nearsighted, you may see them swaying their head from side to to side in order to improve their depth perception or focus on a stationary object.
Interaction with Other Rats
A rat should only be living alone as a last resort! It is not healthy for such a social animal to be alone. Rats that live together form bonds. They enjoy grooming, playing, sleeping and eating together. Humans are not able to spend 24/7 with their pets, so there is no replacement for a cage mate. It's necessary to have two or more rats living together in a suitable environment for their happiness. Single rats can develop behavioral problems or neurotic tendencies.
Also, rats should live in same sex groups. Only allow a male and female to live together if one of them is neutered or spayed, or unless you are prepared to deal with the babies!
If you need to introduce a new
rat to a rat that you already have, it must be done gradually! First,
your new rat must be quarantined for at least two weeks. Second, after
quarantation, place the 2 cages next to each other so that the rats can
see, smell and hear one another. Third, switch the rats to each others
cage. This will help get the rats get accustomed to smelling the
other rat. This can be repeated a few times. Fourth, introduce your
rats in a neutral place that neither rat is used to. This way, neither
rat will feel the need to defend their
territory. After they meet, give them some treats. The treats will give
them a chance to bond while eating as well as make the rats quite
satisfied. Don't leave them unsupervised! Fifth,
put the rats in an area that the resident rat is used to playing. Watch
them carefully as a fight may break out. If one or both of the rats
show aggression, separate them quickly. This will probably have to be
repeated until the rats are comfortable with one another. When the time
comes to put the rats in the same cage, make sure the cage is as clean
as possible (to get rid of any strong odors from the resident rat) with
plenty of food, water, treats, toys and places to rest.
You will find that your pet rat will enjoy the company of other rats as well as human company. A rat that is fully socialized will accept people as part of their family and interact with them as they would with other rats (this includes grooming, playing, sleeping and eating). They usually need at least an hour a day playing, exploring and interacting with a human because they are so social. You can even train your rat to come when called and do other tricks. Teaching your rat various tricks and games will help strengthen your bond as well as help develop the rat's brain and personality.
The socialization process should start from birth, but if you are not your rat's breeder then you will need to begin with frequent gentle handling to get them used to you. Start by petting them in the cage and offering favorite treats to get them to trust you, then invite them onto your hand. Try holding your hand out flat to see if they climb aboard. Pick up your rat by scooping them up from underneath with two hands (this makes the rat feel the most secure and trusting). If you need to pick your rat up with one hand, hold them around the chest with one hand and bring your other hand underneath their feet as soon as possible. They don't like to have their feet dangle. Once you are holding the rat, bring them close to your body. They like to have something solid to press up against.
Rats enjoy being petted just as cats and dogs do. Their favorite places are usually the top of the head, behind the ears, on the cheeks and on the shoulders, although some will have a different favorite spot.
Most rats will like having time to run free. It's important to pick a place in your home where your rat cannot get into the walls or get out of the house. Rat proofing the room or the house is necessary. All holes need to be boarded up in the walls, floor, cabinets, etc. Make sure all the heater vents are covered and secure. Remove access to electrical wires. If your rat can get in the bathroom, keep the toilet lid down. Medication, cleaners and other poisonous substances must be kept out of reach. Rats love to hide and sleep in clothes and blankets, but they have a habit of shredding their bedding, so be careful of what you leave lying around or it may end up with holes. Also, it's a good idea to have your rat trained to come when you call before you attempt this. If you cannot find your rat once they are loose, call for them and then listen carefully for where you hear little rat noises.
A habitat for any pet should have water, food, litter/bedding, shelter and enrichment. Also, the habitat should be large enough for all the animals living there. Rats can be housed within habitats made of wire, glass aquariums or powdered coated cages. Get the largest habitat possible because rats love to have move to run around and climb. Check out the Rat Cage Calculator.
For tanks, at least a 20 gallon long is recommended for one or two rats, but any more rats than that will need more space to run around. Tanks do not get the same ventiliation that wire cages do, but the rats cannot throw their bedding out of it. The tank will need a lid that is held securely in place so they cannot escape. Some rats are able to chew through the thin mesh of the lids, so getting the thicker wire lids is best. Tanks are good for mothers and their babies or older rats who cannot use the ramps in wire cages.
Wire cages are the preferred rat habitats by people, as well as most rats. Getting the powder-coated cages is better because they are ventilated, keep your rat healthy & more fit because they get more exercise, you can hang toys & wheels to occupy them, and they are the easiest to clean. Most of the messes will just wipe off with a wet cloth. With the galvanized ones, it's just a pain in the butt trying to get the wires really clean from the mess that rats make.
One thing that is sort of a problem for rats is the wiring under their feet. Rats are susceptible to bumblefoot (see Health).
In order to prevent this, most rat owners have to devise a way to put a
smooth surface over the wire for the rats to walk on. This only has to
be done on the floors and ramps made of wire. Some ideas for covering
the wire: Cardboard boxes (very cheap, but must be removed after a
couple days due to accumulated mess and odor), plastic or rubber
placemats (they can be taped down
to the wire beneath them, are easy to clean and inexpensive, however
they are not durable), and self-sticking vinyl flooring (same pros as
the placemats, but very durable! Available at hardware stores). For the
ramps, rats would prefer something easier to walk on than placemats or
vinyl flooring. Try waterproof bath mats or carpet so they have
something that isn't as slippery.
Cage cleaning usually is needed every couple days to every 10 days, depending on the situation. People with more sensitive noses, many rats or ineffective bedding will need to clean their's more often. All the litter & bedding is removed and replaced with new litter & bedding after the pan is disinfected. Clean all surfaces with a disinfectant that is pet safe. Replace any flooring, shelters (cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, etc), hammocks and toys that the rats have destroyed. To maintain the cage between cleanings, it's a good idea to tidy up to prevent any odors or insect infestations. Normally, rats have a particular place in the cage where they like to go to the bathroom, cleaning out this area every day or so will help the odor. Removing all uneaten people food and wiping down the floor surfaces will help with odors and keep the insects from feasting on the leftovers.
Rats require a water bottle or dish with plenty
of clean water. A bottle is preferred because it keeps it free of
contamination. You can add vitamins, minerals and/or medicines to the
water for the health of your rat.
Rats need a low-fat, low-protein and low-calorie diet to help keep them healthy. You need to make sure that it says that it is a complete diet though so you won't have to buy dietary supplements. Rats are omnivorous, which means they eat both plant and animal
material. Please do not try to convert your rats into vegetarians; they need
animal protein, and cannot live on plant protein alone! Rats love food in
general and will eat almost anything you put in front of them, savoring every
morsel. Try to keep their diet as healthy as
possible. There are many healthy treats that you can offer
your rats. However, eating the same thing every day can become boring just as it
does for people, so add variety in their diet!
It's extremely important to keep the protein range between 16% & 18% for healthy adult rats! Pregnant or nursing females, as well as babies up to 13 weeks old, can be fed a higher protein ratio up to 22%. If rats are fed too much protein this can lead to excess buck grease (orange flakes on the skin) and protein scabs (which are very itchy and can lead to scratches and/or wounds). Males are particularly prone to buck grease and protein scabs, but females are suseptible as well.
If you notice that your rat has scabs or too much
grease, you need to cut down on
the level of protein in the diet (go down to 14%). Try adding more grains and pasta to their diet
and bathing them in Palmolive or Sunlight antibacterial dish detergent (help cut the grease).
Lab blocks should be the staple of your rat's diet (such as
Harlan Teklad,
Hagen Nutri-blocks, Oxbow and Mazuri). Lab-blocks
are a complete nutritional diet that meets the nutritional requirements
of rats. They are a hard food made especially for rats, usually found
in most pet stores or feed stores. They also keep their teeth
from becoming overgrown.
Most
seasoned rat owners find that making their own dry rat food mixes is
not difficult or expensive to do, and is much more beneficial to their rats. I have
listed recipes for two of the most popular homemade rat diets (in the
U.S. and Canada, although there are variations of these diets in the
U.K. and Australia). Both of these diets require a staple food such as
a high quality lab block or Innova Senior Dog Food. You can make your own rat food by choosing one recipe or combining both.
Recipe One:
Recipe Two:
The dry food should be hung in a food dispenser or put in a heavy ceramic
dish that won't tip over.
Some rat-friendly fruits: strawberries,
grapes (seedless), banana, pear, apple, watermelon, cantaloupe, kiwi
fruit, papaya, raisins, tomatoes, nectarines, peaches, plums, honeydew
melon, mango and blueberries.
Some rat-friendly vegetables:
squash, mustard greens, collard greens, romaine lettuce, spinach,
cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel
sprouts, carrots, celery and fennel.
Fresh fruits and vegetables should be given at least 3 times a week. Remove the pits from any fruit. Some vegetables such as
asparagus, broccoli and cauliflower can cause gas, so feed in moderation.
Too much fruit or roughage can lead to diarrhea.
Whole protein sources: chicken, beef, tuna, salmon, oysters, shrimp and liver.
Some rat-friendly treats: cereal, bread, rice cakes, cheese, baby food, mixed baby cereal, chicken bones, dog biscuits, soya milk, fish sticks, cooked rice and pasta, active yeast cultured yogurt (contains good bacteria that aids digestion), chocolate (in small amounts, i.e. one chocolate chip per rat, chocolate is a good bronchio-dialator, which helps rats with respiratory problems).
Keep the people food to less than 15% of the rat's diet; the dry rat food (especially the lab blocks) is what is most important!
The following should never be given to rats:
| Food | Why not? |
| blue cheese | contains toxic mold |
| licorice | contains a suspected neurotoxin |
| raw dry beans or peanuts | contain antinutrients, cause red blood cell clumping (note: the peanuts that you buy in stores are almost always roasted so are okay.... frozen beans from veggie mixes are okay because they've been pre-cooked) |
| raw sweet potato | contains cyanide-forming compounds |
| raw red cabbage and brussel sprouts | contain an antinutrient that destroys thiamin |
| raw artichokes | inhibit protein digestion |
| green bananas | inhibit starch digestion |
| green potato skin and eyes | contain solanine (toxin) |
| wild insects | could carry parasites |
| rhubarb | high levels of oxalates which bind up calcium |
| raw bulk tofu | can contain bacteria (packaged tofu is safe) |
| oranges |
contains d-limonene which can cause kidney cancer in male rats |
| raw onion | can lead to anemia and an upset stomach |
Foods that should be fed with caution:
| Food | Why? |
| carbonated drinks | rats can't burp! |
| chocolate | It contains stimulants that can lead to heart failure or neurological poisoning in high quantities. A bit of chocolate is okay and can actually temporarily alleviate respiratory distress |
| peanut butter | This can cause choking in rats. If you want to give your rats some, mix it with jam or something liquid to make it less sticky. |
| avocados | These are high in fat and are a good treat to feed rats that are in need of "beefing up" (make sure the fruit is ripe). However, the pit, rind, skin and leaves of avocados are toxic. The part of the fruit in contact with the pit has a higher concentration of toxins. |
| dried corn | It can have high levels of fungal contaminates which can lead to liver cancer. A little fresh corn is fine. |
Foods that should be limited:
| Food | Why? |
| beets | high in nitrates and oxalates |
| spinach | high in nitrates and oxalates |
| eggplant | high in nitrates and oxalates |
| lettuce | high in nitrates and oxalates |
| cucumber | high in nitrates and oxalates |
| radishes | high in nitrates and oxalates |
| celery | high in nitrates |
| collards | high in nitrates |
| turnip greens | high in nitrates |
| almonds | high in oxalates |
| Swiss chard | high in oxalates |
Nitrates and amines combine into carcinogenic nitrosamines in the stomach. Oxalates are toxins that bind up calcium.
Many rat owners find that yogurt drops are a must have for treats.
Rats love them! Some of the more popular brands are: Yogies, Kaytee and Vitakraft. They make lots of flavors. Remember, rats should only have a couple per day! A lot of rat-friendly treats can be
found in the ferret, rabbit or hamster/gerbil section as well as the
rat/mouse section of pet stores.
If the above feeding recommendations are followed, malnutrition and related problems are very unlikely among pet rodents.