Here are some interesting and helpfull Tips and articles for fishing enthusiasts. Feel free to send in your tips and articles. We'll be glad to include any good information. To submit your favorite tidbit go HERE
In this article I'm going to reveal some real world, practical tips for catching more trout. I have personally been using these same tips to help me catch more trout for more than 20 years, so I know for a fact that they work. My fishing mentor, JRW, taught these tips to me and he was the single greatest trout angler that I've ever had the pleasure to know. He fished rivers and streams that were heavily pressured and managed to catch flat out trophy trout out on a fairly regular basis. He caught all of his trout, whether they were trophies or not, using the tips that I'm going to reveal in this article.
Use Light Line - JRW believed in using light line for all of his trout fishing. He insisted on using four-pound test monofilament line, and that's what I use to this day. I've come to realize that six-pound test is tolerable as well, but any fishing line heavier than six-pound test should not be used if you want to catch more trout. The bottom line is that trout have very sensitive eyesight, and tend to detect any line heavier than six-pound test.
Use Ultra Light Gear - It almost goes without saying, but ultra light rods and reels should be employed when fishing for trout. Don't worry, ultralight gear and light line doesn't mean that you can only catch small fish. JRW regularly hooked and landed trout in the 3-6 pound class on ultra light gear and I do the same thing to this day. Just make sure that your using the proper gear and line, it can make a huge difference in your trout catching ability.
Use Gang Hooks - JRW used gang hooks for all of his live bait trout fishing, especially when live worms were involved. You see, gang hooks allow live worms to be presented in a completely natural manner, which makes a HUGE difference in the number of bites that are received. If you want to catch more trout, use gang hooks for presenting your live bait.
Be Efficient - If you want to catch more trout, you need to be as efficient as possible. Simply put, the more time your line can spend in the water, where the trout are, rather than out of the water while you search for gear or bait, the better. This is where things like a bait bag and retractors are so valuable. You see, a bait bag carries your live worms for you, so that they are always right at your fingertips. And retractors hold your much-used fishing gear like hemostats or nail clippers right on your vest for easy access. JRW was a big advocate of being as efficient as possible while fishing.
Clothing Matters - JRW believed that the color of your clothing mattered. It's not necessary to be in camouflage while trout fishing, but wearing drab colors, rather than loud colors most certainly works in your favor. If you stand out like a sore thumb along the stream, you can bet the trout will see you. And if the trout detect you, it's game over, at least as far as the large and experienced fish are concerned.
Surface Fishing For Carp With My Simple and Very Effective Method By: Steve Kempson
If you have not tried surface fishing for Carp you are missing out on a really fantastic and exciting method of Carp fishing There is nothing like seeing the big swirl around your bait and then that slurping sound as your surface bait is taken by what is usually the larger than average Carp.
I have tried many methods of surface fishing and can tell you they all work and one of the most interesting facts is that the Carp you catch are usually bigger that what you will take from a bottom bait, I don't know why this is but previous experience has always shown me when I take a Carp from the surface its a nice one and bigger then the average bear !.
We can use many different types of baits for surface fishing, dog biscuits, pop-up boilies, ready made floaters specially prepared with delicious flavours, the list is endless all of these work but my favourite is the old trusted bread crust. I have caught more Carp on floating bread than any other method and to set this up is really simple, I will explain this for you in a moment.
I see many anglers using what we call the 'controller float' this is simply a float that is heavily weighted for casting distance and we have a 3 to 4ft tail with our bait usually sitting on the surface behind the float. Now, don't get me wrong this is a good method you can cast virtually anywhere but I have always found one major problem with this method the float will not stay in the prime area where you want it, especially if its a windy day, you know the spot by the Lille pads where you have catapulted those free offerings and those carp are taking them like food is going out of fashion!.
I decided it was time for a change and tried something so simple it just could not work, or could it!, yes you are right it worked and it worked so well I could cast my bait out to the exact spot I wanted and it never moved, perfect!.
So, what method did I use, here it is, please do not under estimate this method because its looks to simple I have found this to be very effective whenever I have used it, this is what you do. You setup a simple ledger rig, free running, slide the ledger on to the line, add a ledger stop below the ledger, one side only we need this to be free running and then tie on our hook, for crust fishing I will usually use a size 8 or 6 hook.
Now we start with a tail of about 2 to 3 ft add some bread crust and cast out, id the bread does not rise to the surface our tail is to short and the depth of the water is deeper than 2 or 3 ft. We slide the ledger of another foot, re-cast until we can see the bread floating in top of the water. I have used this method in water that is over 10ft deep, so I had a ten foot tail but can still cast this out easily.
So, now we have our weight sitting on the bottom and out bread floating on the surface, and yes you guessed, it will stay exactly where you cast it, even if there is a gail force wind!.
Give this method a try, I guarantee you will have great success, there are many more tips on my website here www.fishingGuide4u.com May all your fish be big ones tight lines!
Article written by Steve Kempson, 30 years of fishing experience and a lover of the sport. For more great fishing reviews please visit http://www.FishingGuide4u.com
Scents and Attractants
Scents and Attractants Do They Really Work By: Carlton Holliday
Do scents really work? Do scents attract fish? I am asked these questions many times from novices and pro fishermen alike. I know that most any articles you read stress the importance of scent to one degree or another.
A lot of scientific research shows some fish are drawn to chemical sources from hundreds of yards away. Other studies indicate fish can recognize aquatic plants and other fish in the same school by individual smell. A fish?s ability to smell is documented to be approximately 1,000 times better than a dog. Fish Biologists also proved in some fish species that a fish?s system of smell can double and even triple as the fish age. So how does a bass smell?
Bass have two nostrils on each side of their snout. One is the anterior nostril and the other is the posterior nostril. Water flows into the anterior nostril, over the olfactory nerves, and back out through the posterior nostril. No link exists between the sets of nostrils and their throat. As the water holding the scent molecules flows across the olfactory nerves, a message is sent to the brain, where the scent is classified as a positive or negative scent. Bass then act on the sense by a conditioned response.
Let us look at the normal behavior of a bass. Bass find their prey by sight or sound first. The last sense activated is smell. It still plays a critical role in a bass?s life. When a bass hears or feels the presence of bait he comes over to investigate the movement or sound. As the bass moves closer to the bait, he is expecting the final stimulus, smell, to be coming from the bait. As he strikes and crushes the bait, he is expecting confirmation of the flavor of the prey by his sense of smell. Smell is an important final stimulus.
I also know that certain scents like gasoline or oil will repel bass. When reading articles, most of them will stress the point of keeping your hands free of such things as gasoline, oil, nicotine and sun tan lotion. You can buy hand cleaner specially formulated for fishermen to clean their hands periodically. If you eat in the boat while fishing, certain foods or sauces will provide a negative smell. The best advice is to use some of the hand cleaner and wash your hands frequently. In some research circles, thought is that when a bass is caught and released, it emits a chemical into the water that is interpreted by other bass as a negative smell therefore the other bass quit biting. I have seen this happen on numerous occasions. You are catching fish from one area, maybe two or three, and you release the last one caught and you get no more strikes. You know there are still fish there but they just quit you cold. This has happened to me more than once.
In response to a positive smell, bass generally will hold onto a worm emanating a positive scent for a longer time. This gives you an advantage of being able to get a good hook set and catching the fish. Three scents that appear to be positive scents are salt, anise, and garlic. Anise and garlic may be masking scents rather than attracting scents.
Now think about this: The smells or scents are transmitted to the fish by the water surrounding the fish. Now the old adage about oil and water comes into play. Many scents are oil based and although some of the oil molecules do disperse on their own, they frequently do not last long. This makes it necessary to add these scents quite frequently. Water based scents are just as bad or worse. These scents can, without drying the bait off, be thrown off the bait by casting. If you are buying these types of scents, it is going to get expensive. The scents that utilize fish oil as a base stay on the bait quite well and disperse readily in the water leaving a ?scent trail?. Baits that have the scents ?built in? like Yum or Gulp baits work very well also.
If you look at most worm packaging, you will notice that a lot of them have built in scents of one kind or another. Most of these contain garlic or salt and work well.
This is what my wife and I found out after a few years of experimenting. When we practiced for tournaments, one of us would use a scent product while the other would not. After 4 or 5 months, we discovered that the one using the scented worm was catching more fish. Not extraordinary numbers more but enough of a modest amount more to notice. We noted that the bass tended to hit the worm harder and hold on to the worm longer thus providing many more opportunities to get a good hook set. We obtained a sponsorship from Fish Formula and utilized the crawfish formula scent while we worm fished. We also found another product called ?Worm Oil? manufactured by Baitsense and used it with modest success. I honestly don?t know whether either product attracts fish, but I do believe the products do make the bass hold on just a little longer thus providing the time to get a good hook set. If scents work to any degree, that may give you an advantage thus putting a few more fish in the live well. I think it is worth a small investment.
One word of caution about using most scents. The scents can be messy and you must be very careful with some scents, as they will stain your boat?s carpet. I had better luck putting the scent into a round plastic container and just dipping the worm into the scented formula. When I finished fishing for the day, I would put a matching cover on the container and store it until the next trip.
Carlton ?Doc? Holliday and his wife, Darlene ?Dee? Holliday only tournament fished together for 5 years. In late 1992, Carlton had a heart attack thus the early retirement ended along with the professional fishing career.
All told, both individually and as a team, Doc and Dee won over 30 bass tournaments and placed in the top 5 in over 70 bass tournaments. The last 3 years of their career as professional bass fishermen were spent winning the Arkansas Guys and Gals Championship in 1991, Doc finishing seventh overall in the Arkie Division of the Redman Circuit in 1991 and becoming eligible to fish the Redman Regional Tournament in Columbus Mississippi where he finished 20th. Also in 1990, Doc fished in the Mr. Bass of Arkansas Championship on Lake Ouachita and finished third. Career winnings estimated over $85,000.00.
Carlton ?Doc? Holliday and his wife, Darlene ?Dee? Holliday are both retired and live at Joplin, Arkansas two minutes from Lake Ouachita near Hot Springs, Arkansas. Visit us at http://www.bassfishinglakeouachita.com or email us at carltonholliday@yahoo.com
Lure Fishing
Lure Fishing By: Allen Na
For me, nothing is more dynamic and no sport with more evolving learning curve than the art of Fishing. In fishing, you will never seem to stop learning something new with every single fishing trip. Fishing covers many changing variables and needs utmost skills to adapt and make use of the constantly changing conditions. With every experience and techniques gained we have to be on the learning curve and change our tactics and strategies. That?s where the fun begins, the uncertainties faced and the strategizing starts.
Here we have talked a lot about general fishing but in particular Lure fishing and the actual action of lure casting is more an act of active hunting rather than passive fishing. Many believe that baiting tend to have a higher change of landing a catch but I firmly believe now that a right lure in the hands of a good angler will definitely land a sizeable catch relative to baiting. Ardent baiters will tend to disregard luring as they believe that luring is too tiring and ?fishes don?t eat plastics? I have thought about this seriously and have studied the advantage of luring.
First of all a lure being retrieved right displays an aggressive motion where the fish is at its comfort zone will tend to strike the lure as a defensive measure. All animals especially predators tend to have their own territories. In luring we call them strike zones. And when we cast our lure into that area we are mimicking another fish invading the fish?s ?zone? enticing an attack. A lure imitates a baitfish and a hungry fish will strike Even though at an area where there are sufficient bait fishes available .. certain lures imitate an injured or wounded baitfish which is relatively an easier meal for the fish. Amidst the schools of bait fishes a lure will be singled out as a different animal/fish and anything that stands out from the crowd usually will be singled out and attacked first.
I read somewhere in a magazine that it?s a generally accepted statement that 10% of anglers catches 90% of the fish. There are published research that indicates the professional lurers have certain abilities or traits. They have the instinct or knowledge that allows them to locate the target fish through years of practice. The ability to impart action to their lure when retrieved or trolled very slowly so as to stay within the fishes strike-zone for as long as they could. Instead of just whizzing by the fish. To vary and change the lure retrieval speed and depth as often as required.
My color is better than yours! Remember my statement that we need to keep an open mind with fishing? When it comes to choosing a lure ..many of us will decide on color but are often unsure of which to choose and will go with the one that looks ?good?. We need to keep learning and stay on the learning curve.
There is however a rule of the thumb. Dark Day = Dark Color Bright Day = Bright Color
I have also discovered that purple/black lures and spinners work well in all conditions. Orange color tinted lure is also very effective all rounder.
What about dirty water ? casually known as Teh Tarik (Milk Tea) here locally. Obviously the fish needs to be very close to the lure to see it. Hence color doesn?t matter. We need to make use of two things- Noise and vibration. Use lure with strong action ? Chug bug works well.
Also like the Kranji reservoir, when the water is thick with sediment or algae, the oxygen concentration is far greater near the surface of the water so we need to start popping the poppers. Many anglers tend to choose lures to match the bait fishes ?but if there are plenty of bait fishes around why would the fish choose your lure then? I believe anything that stands out will have a higher chance of being attacked. Have you ever seen people landing huge snakeheads using poppers that look like your son?s toy or a marker pen?
Many anglers I speak to go for lures with red under the gills and near the tail ? bleeding and injured fish. Also as I mentioned before ? orangy tint at the belly is good. But with all these theories and suggestions ? think like a fish and choose the lure you like. Don?t bother with one that irks you because most likely you are going to keep using the one you like.
Allen Na is the writer for Gonefishing's Journal on http://fishforfood.blogspot.com These articles are unique and helpful to anyone interested in learning about angling or fishing. Please visit http://fishios.blogspot.com to view a variety of unique techniques and tips in fishing.
How to Fish With Live Worms
How To Fish With Live Worms By: Trevor Kugler
It perplexes me, but many anglers aren?t aware of how to fish with live worms. Fishing with live worms isn't difficult, however there are a few things that can be done to tip the odds in your favor, and those things don't involve "threading" a live worm onto a hook or creating anything that even remotely resembles a "worm ball". Threading live worms onto hooks has long been the standard for fishing with live worms, and this is crazy because it's not the most effective way. The most effective way to fish with live worms, or any live bait for that matter, is to have it look as natural as possible. This simply means that it should appear like it would in nature. And when's the last time you saw a live worm all "balled up" in nature? In nature worms appear outstretched, the way God intended.
So the way to fish with live worms is to have them appear outstretched and natural and the best way to accomplish this is through the use of a set of gang hooks. What is a set of gang hooks? A set of gang hooks is simply a pair of small hooks (usually 6, 8, or 10) that are tied in tandem, thus enabling the angler to present live worms in an outstretched and natural manner. Gang hooks are the most effective way to present live worms while angling and will out fish "threading" a worm onto a hook 2 to 1. This is especially true for larger, more experienced fish. If a "worm ball" looks strange to humans, what do you think it looks like to fish?
The other piece of fishing gear that needs to be employed if you fish with live worms is a bait bag. What's a bait bag you ask? A bait bag is simply a small bag that hangs from your fishing vest, belt, or shirt, and carries your live worms while fishing. This may sound strange, but if you move from area to area while fishing, like I do, then you need to use a bait bag to carry your live worms. Always knowing right where your bait is and having is literally "at your fingertips" is a godsend, not to mention a HUGE time saver. If you don't move around at all while you fish, then forget this tip, but if you are at all mobile while fishing and fish with live worms, do yourself a favor and look into a bait bag.
These simple tips will help you become a better live worm angler. To me, when done properly, live worm angling is every bit the art form that flea flicking has ever been purported to be. It's simply that many anglers think that "threading" a live worm onto a hook and chunking it into the water is live worm angling? I have to disagree. To me, there is much more to fishing with live worms than that.
Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country?..Montana!
Read On If You Would Like To Know By: Steve Kempson
I started fishing as a small boy around the Birmingham area, mostly on the canals and small lakes in the public parks. It did not take me long to catch my first Carp and of all things it came from the canal just half a mile from where I used to live. I can remember thinking what the hell have I got here as my little 6ft spinning rod doubled over and the line ripped from my reel at the speed of a roaring train. I landed the fish at it was a 10lb 2oz mirror, from that day I was hooked (excuse the pun!) and Carp fishing took over my life, as it does with many of us !.
It was not long before I became obsessed with catching my first 20lb carp and I went everywhere trying, the canal did produce other carp for me but none of them hit the 20lb mark and I spent many lonely nights on the canal bank, sometimes feeling very isolated and scared, fishing the canals in Birmingham can be a scary thing and I would not recommend doing this these days, make sure you have some friends with you!
There were many day fisheries springing up all over the country boasting of 20lb and 30lb fish and I knew they were there but could I catch that twenty, NO I always ended up just short and went home disappointed to fight another day.
So, to cut a very long story short a mate of mine told me about Horseshoe lake which boated big fish and there were lots being caught, I guess part of the answer for me was if I really wanted to catch a twenty I had to fish where they were, and Horseshoe is where they were !.
Armed with every carp bait you could imagine off we went to Horseshoe, we had booked a mid-week session as we were not members and we fished from Monday to Wednesday, we were luck and managed to get the double peg in the winter bay. Horseshoe is exactly what it suggests and lake in the shape of a horseshoe, with a summer bay which is quite shallow and a deeper winter bay where the fish move into when the weather gets colder.
We were fishing in the winter bay on the double peg about half way up the bay. Horseshoe is very weedy and you have to find a gravel spot by casting out and slowly pulling your tackle back, I found my spot about 80 yards out, a clear patch probably no bigger than 3 foot long and 4 foot wide. I clipped up and put two rods out hitting the patch after about 7 or 8 casts!!.
I had read so much about complex rigs and super wonder baits but the truth is if Carp are in the mood they are in the mood and will eat anything, this has always been my experience. So, out went both rods with the same bait on tiger nut flavour boilies, my mate decided to use his tried and trusted Maze.
Having cast out the rods, then came the really hard work, horseshoe is no easy lake, you have to work hard, I know people who have spent a whole week at this lake and never had a run!!, this was my first visit and that was not going to happen to me, or was it!!
I had a spod mix of maze, hemp, corn and shopped boilies and I must have spodded out about 50lb well it seemed like that anyway, my arm was dropping off after the first night. So, the rods were out, Tiger nut boilies on both of them, the areas was baited up and the wait was on. The first night I had a run at about 02:00, yep she was on and I lost her, the hook pulled an I was devastated, she was a big-un I could tell. No action during the day so we eagerly await the next night, bingo my left hand rod went off like a train and i landed my first carp, was it my first twenty NO, she weighed in at 18lb, dam just two pound short !!.
I was beginning to think it was not going to happen, we were on our last night, this was my last chance was that twenty going to come. I sat up for most of that last night praying for a run, the last thing I remember was looking at the clock 04:00 and I must have fell asleep.
I was woken by my left hand rod screaming off at 06:30, I could not believe it, we were packing up in just two hours and I was in to what felt like a very big fish, no mad dashing around the lake just heavy thumping on the rod top. After about 10 minutes I had the fish in the net and I knew it was a 20lb yippeeee. The fish actually weighed 29lb 4oz so not only did I catch my first 20lb I nearly had my first 30lb !!.
Horseshoe was kind to me, two fish in three days and a 29lb fish to end with.
So whats the morale of this story, if you want to catch a twenty or thirty go and fish where they are !! keep it simple and pray...
Fishing Lures Spoons Spinners Plugs and Soft Lures
Fishing Lures Spoons Spinners Plugs Jigs and Soft Lures By: Dan Levy
LURE FISHING is one of the most exciting ways of catching predatory fish.The sight of the first predator attacking your lure and gobbling it is a sight you?ll never forget.
There are five main types of lures: Spoons, Spinners, Plugs, Jigs and Soft Lures.
Within each category there?s a huge diversity, in this post, I'll try to cover the basics.
Spoons:
Spoons are named so because of the shape of their head that resembles a spoon.
Spoons are excellent lures for beginners, as they are easy to use and relatively inexpensive.
The spoon lure?s action resembles a real fish, as it flickers and wobbles through the water. Its bright colors and random movement helps it attracts the predatory fish.
Spinners:
The spinner bait has one or more metal blades located close to the swivel or head.
When reeling the spinner in, the metal blades spin, rotating the lure as it?s being pulled through the water, making the blades shine and flash as the sunlight reflects off of it .
You can find spinners with additional feathers, plastic tassel or even a tail attached, to make the lure more attractive when targeting specific species of fish.
Plugs:
?A Plug? refers to a whole family of lures made of hard plastic or wood that imitates all manner of baitfish, usually attached with two or three treble hooks.
Plugs are designed to look and move in the same way as a small fish, which often swims in distress.
Plugs come in a great variety of colors, sizes and shapes, and are divided into a few ?families?: top-water plug, float diver plug, crank-bait plug, jerkbait plug and suspending plugs.
The plugs world is so rich; I?ll have a dedicated post for it in the next future.
Jigs:
One of the most basic and effective lures for targeting any predatory fish during any time of the year is the jig.
A jig is a heavy, lead-headed bait with a single hook. The jig?s color may vary between brightly colored to black, and may have additional feathers, tails or reflective parts (the additional parts? color can be altered to change the appearance of the bait quickly and economically).
Jigs are usually used for fishing close to the bottom of the sea, where the jig is bounced off the surface, giving the "jigging" motion to the lure.
When using a jig, it?s best to use a fast action, medium-heavy to heavy rod, in length of 1.80 meters to 2.4 meters.
Soft Lures:
Soft lures are mostly made up of scented latex and are divided to two main categories: soft baits and soft sticks often referred to as fry worms.
The soft baits are featured with a thicker head and belly with a tapered tail, sometimes forked like a baitfish. When using soft bait it?s best to reel it back as slowly as possible.
The soft sticks do not have a defined head or tail; rather, they look like short blunt-end worms. These sticks are most often presented as drop or drag baits.
That was just an introduction to the lures world, a separate post for plugs and posts about lures fishing techniques are yet to come.
Safe Towing Skills Including Reversing a CaravanTrailer By: Ian Molloy
SAFE TOWING ON THE ROAD
Hopefully, by the time you commence your tour, much of the hard work of getting ready for your trip is behind you. Having said that, there are still plenty of things to attend to as you travel. You will have daily, weekly and ongoing checking to make sure your rig is well maintained. You understand and have practiced driver safe towing techniques needed for a safe trip. There are daily checks to be made, fuel use to be calculated, caravan parks to be selected and settled into, ongoing money matters, and daily health and safety issues to be considered.
The information contained on this page will help you take care of your safe towing tasks as efficiently as possible to allow plenty of time for you to enjoy your caravan holiday.
SAFE TOWING
Towing a caravan or camper is not just a matter of hooking up and heading off. Specialist driving skills are needed and regulations must be observed.
Towing Regulations
Australia has a set of national regulations for weight limits for towing vehicles. Speed limits may also apply. In most States, motorists are required only to observe normal speed limits as signed. On some of the Northern Territory?s outback roads where there are no limits, caravanners are asked to drive at a safe towing speed. In Tasmania a 90 km/h limit applies. In Western Australia a 90 km/h limit applies where the caravan weighs over 750 kg and 100 km/h for caravans under 750 kg
SAFE TOWING SKILLS
If you have not towed a caravan before, make sure you get some practice before leaving home. Waiting until you are on the road to perfect your safe towing techniques may result in you annoying other drivers, attract bemused spectators especially when you are trying to reverse your caravan into your camping site and you may have to contend with poorly maintained roads and bad weather conditions in an unfamiliar and possibly dangerous towing skill.
Learn to Reverse
Reversing is one of the most important towing skills. You will regularly need to reverse your caravan 90 degrees into a space, and often across a kerb. Before you leave on your tour, take your van to a large parking area (shopping centre or sporting complex car park) on a quiet day and practise until you feel confident. After that, all parking and reversing should not be a problem.
The simple rule of thumb is that steering works in the opposite way to normal, so if you want the van to go to the left, turn the steering wheel in your car to the right ('right hand down').
Overtaking
Another safe towing skill is overtaking. You will not have as much power as normal when you are towing a van, so allow adequate distance for the reduced acceleration of your car. Also make allowances of the extra length of you unit when veering left back into the driving lane. If you are being overtaken, slow down or at least maintain your current speed and keep to the left but not far enough to force the wheels on your van off the sealed surface.
Avoid Trailer Sway
Crosswinds can be a problem when towing because the caravan?s pick up the wind and they do not deflect any. The combination of high speed and crosswinds can cause trailer sway, which dangerously destabilises both towing vehicle and caravan. When you are driving you will feel it and a glance in the rear-view mirror will confirm the problem. Rectify the situation by easing back on your speed. Brake, if necessary, very gently to avoid compounding the problem and then increase your speed again gradually to a safe speed.
Be Courteous to Other Drivers
Caravans and motorhomes should travel as safely as they can with the flow of traffic. We have all seen cars towing caravans cruising along a main highway at about 60 km/h, with an endless stream of traffic following. If you desire to travel at a slower speed and the traffic does build behind you, you should regularly pull off the road to let the traffic flow by.
Allow for Extra Weight
Towing a van will make the acceleration and braking on your vehicle much slower. A couple of driving techniques can help. On long, steep uphill sections, select a gear that the towing vehicle is comfortable with. Keep the revs to the higher end of the operating range to help prevent overheating. Avoid letting the engine lug at low revs in a higher gear. On long, steep downhill sections, keep your speed under control and keep the brakes as cool as possible. Select a lower gear and let the engine do as much braking as possible. Increasing the efficiency of the electric trailer brakes on the controller will allow the van to help slow the towing vehicle. Many motorhomes are fitted with engine brakes, which work very efficiently on long downhill section.
Ian Molloy is the owner of Crikey Adventure Tours. Visit his website http://www.crikey-adventure-tours.com for more information about this article and other related topics. He not only has his tour business operating from Peth in Western Australia, but his site is full of very helpful information. Some of these includes tips on motorcycle holidays http://www.crikey-adventure-tours.com/motorcycle-holiday.html, driving cross-country, caravanning and generally lots of tips about having a "camping" holiday.
Fishing Berly Good
Fishing Berly Good By: Allen Na
Usually ground-bait or chum used to form a trail to attract fish to you or your bait. Mostly used by trolling anglers or anglers fishing from a boat. However I felt that this shouldn't prevent shore anglers (from piers or jetties) to use this very good innovation.
First the ingredients: The trick to successful berleying is to have the correct combination of ingredients, consistency of the flow and timing, and to my way of thinking those anglers who don?t use berley are mad, as it would have to be the most effective way of attracting the fish to you. But when using berley, no matter what the combination is, you need to use it as a technique of getting the fish to you. Not as something that feeds the fish or takes them away from you. The main thing that you have got to remember is that the largest object that is floating down that berley trail is your bait with a hook in it.
I used a used cheese cloth and dump some fish intestine, ground baitfish, some prawn paste (Belachan- for those in Asia) and some prawn heads. Then I simply tie this to my main line with a swivel. Obviously I can't be casting far with this setup hence i fish by the jetty ... and results were great.
I was also thinking of doing a modified "cable car" rig where the berly will trolley along my main line after casting till the depths I wanted.
Keep and open mind and stay ahead of the learning curve.
Allen Na is the writer for Gonefishing's Journal on http://fishforfood.blogspot.com These articles are unique and helpful to anyone interested in learning about angling or fishing. Please visit http://fishios.blogspot.com to view a variety of unique techniques and tips in fishing.
The Non-Boaters Guide To Fishing Tournaments
The Non-Boater's Guide to Fishing Tournaments by Nick Toman
If you're reading this article, chances are you're just beginning to fish tournaments, have your first tournament in the near future, or are curious about joining a club or association. What's worse is that you are probably a bit unsure about what to do, what to bring, what to wear, et cetera. No one wants to be the worried outsider prior to ooze-off, so here's a guide to help you get started and feel confident and comfortable on the water.
Finding a Tournament Appropriate to Your Interests
Most of us have already found a group of anglers we are comfortable fishing with, but for those who have not, here's a quick rundown. This step is far more important than most may think. If your first few tournament experiences are with a group of "hardcore" anglers and you are looking to just learn a bit and get on water once a month, chances are, you'll be turned off before you give tournaments a chance. Conversely, there are many leagues where it's more about meeting at Sammy's for a sandwich after the tournament, and people are very laid back - for those of us who are more competitive and really want to learn a lot, these anglers do not compose the group you'll want to join.
The best advice I can give you is to email the club presidents, or tournament managers and simply ask what there philosophy embodies. A simple websearch will turn up many clubs in your area ranging from local dealership tournaments, to BASS Federation, to American Bass Anglers draw trail, to the WalMart BFL and Everstart Pro-Am events.
If you are looking for an occasional tournament and are after more fun than competition, I'd stick with local tournaments run by boat dealers, bait shops, lure manufacturers and the like. The American Bass Anglers is a bit more competitive, but still embodies the philosophy of the "weekend angler." This is a true draw format where you will compete against both non-boaters and boaters alike. These tend to be smaller tourneys ranging from 10 to 50 boats. Chances are you can find an ABA division near you (http://www.americanbassanglers.com). The WalMart BFL tour is a Pro-Am, meaning you will only compete against other "amateurs" (non-boaters). These are great learning events once you are on the boat, but the hussle and bussle of a large tournament can be a turn-off of these events; often times, there will be a full 200 boat field, meaning 400 total anglers. As a first tournament, it can be a bit overwhelming Additionally, these events are geographically sparse and require a lot of travel (see http://www.flwoutdoors.com for locations). BASS Federation events have the most variance between a laid back and a hardcore composition of anglers - you really need to call club directors regarding their respective clubs. To obtain a list of BASS clubs, visit your state's Federation Web site at http://www.bassmasters.com/.
What Fishing Equipment Should I Bring?
The most important advice I can give you regarding equipment, is that you must always remember you are fishing out of another individual's boat. Chances are their boat cost them thousands of dollars and they DO NOT want to see it messy, cluttered, and treated poorly by someone they hardly know.
With that in mind, you still have a job to do, namely catch bass. In terms of rods, I'd recommend no more than five. The number of rods is highly conditional: if you use only spinning gear, I'd only bring 3-4 rods. If you prefer to use casting outfits, 5 is plenty. Most boaters will allow you to use the rear pole ties; these ties typically hold about 4 rods comfortably (you can usually squeeze in 5 however). You do not want to be running across the lake and having your rods not tied down, or laying loose - you will lose your equipment, damage the boat, or worse yet, injure yourself with unsecured equipment.
In terms of rod types, personally I try to use 4 utility rods and 1 flipping/pitching stick. The following chart summarizes the types of rods I will use and their typical uses. Keep it mind factors such as high wind, dense cover, water clarity, and methods such as fishing wood versus deep water finesse fishing. Ultimately these factors will pick your rods for you. Nevertheless, the following chart covers all the basics and will easily get you through a tourney.
Avoild Danger While Traveling on Your Caravan Hoilday
Avoid Danger While Travelling on Your Caravan Holiday By: Ian Molloy
Australia is a very safe and friendly country. However, it doesn?t matter where you go in the world there are things ? of both a criminal and environmental nature ? that can threaten your safety if you are not aware and do not employ some basic precautions.
PERSONAL SAFETY
When you are travelling around this magnificent country of ours, have a friend or relative at home who you keep in touch with at all times. Keep them informed of your travel plans and when you are leaving one place and travelling to your next spot. This is vital if you are travelling in remote or outback regions. Your contact person should have the responsibility of notifying authorities if you fail to make contact at a pre-arranged time. Discuss this thoroughly with them before leaving home. Make sure you both agree on a margin of time to allow for mechanical breakdowns, poor weather or some other unforeseen problems though. After all you do not want to be the cause of a false alarm.
Avoid danger by keeping your vehicle and caravan locked when you are not around, even if you plan to be absent for only a few minutes at a service station, public toilet, shop or lookout: petty criminals are attracted to such places. You may even be at your campsite and just going to the local shop for an ice-cream or something. Do not leave expensive items on display. Keep your lap-top computer, cameras, handbag etc out of visual range. If you have valuables, such as cash, cheques, papers and jewellery, you may consider buying one of the small, fibre-style car safes available. Take care when withdrawing money at ATMs and only withdraw small amounts of cash.
Be cautious while you are driving on the road. To avoid danger do not pick up hitchhikers ? in some state it is actually illegal. If someone flags you down on the road, keep your doors locked and talk to them through a partially opened window until you can find out what the problem is. Report any suspicious behaviour to the local police.
Some of these may sound a bit harsh, but it is your safety you are trying to protect and avoid danger.
Then of course there are the normal personal safety issues.
Avoid the danger of sunburn. Australia is a beautiful country but the sun can very quickly give you sunburn and sunstroke. Apply sunscreen regularly (SPF30+).
Lives are lost every year from rock fishing. Be aware of waves and slippery rocks ALL THE TIME.
We have over 10,000 beaches in Australia but most of them are not patrolled, beware of rips and tides. At patrolled beaches only swim between the flags.
Make sure your boat is suitable for the conditions you are using it for. Be careful of bars and rips at entrances between estuaries and the ocean, they are hazardous for boats.
When you go bushwalking know your own capabilities.
I could go on and on, but the main thing is THINK SAFETY at all times and avoid danger.
CREATURE HAZARDS
Australia has a diverse range of creatures. Some of them are unique and appeal worldwide (kangaroo, emu) but some species are extremely dangerous and direct contact with them should be avoided. There are some fairly simple precautions that you can take to avoid danger.
BOX JELLYFISH (STINGERS)
Found in Australia?s northern tropical waters from October to May, these creatures have a sting that can be fatal to humans. Avoid swimming on beaches north of Rockhampton and Exmouth during the stinger season (varies but normally from November to June). Outside of the season, check with locals first before entering the water.
STONEFISH
These fish are another resident of Australia?s northern waters with a very poisonous sting. Wear sandshoes in the water and do not overturn rocks and coral.
BLUE-RINGED OCTOPUS
Common in rock pools all around Australia, these small creatures about the size of a golf ball have a sting that can cause paralysis followed by death. Wear shoes to explore rocky areas and avoid danger by not handling the marine life you come across.
SHARKS
The best way to avoid sharks is to swim at patrolled beaches. Otherwise, avoid areas of low visibility, do not swim at night and check with locals about whether or not they consider an area safe. If you are surfing, surf with someone else.
CROCODILES
Two varieties are found in northern Australia. Saltwater crocs are extremely dangerous and are found on the coast and in rivers up to 300km inland. Freshwater crocodiles are less dangerous and tend to avoid humans, but are aggressive during mating and protecting their young. Both varieties lurk beneath the surface of the water. They are hard to see and, if you are not an expert, hard to tell apart. Heed local warning signs. Do not swim or paddle in crocodile areas. Do not feed or clean fish by the water?s edge.
SPIDERS AND SNAKES
Leave them alone and they will generally not bother you. Avoid contact by wearing sturdy boots when walking. Check your shoes before putting them on and check your bed before crawling into it and check any other likely spots for stowaways.
WATER SAFETY
Most of Australia?s coastline is un-patrolled and dangerous, not just because of harmful creatures but also because of powerful rips and currents. The only safe way to swim in coastal waters is between the flags at patrolled beaches. Know your swimming ability and watch out for warning signs and beach closures.
Having said all of that about how to avoid danger, Australia is a magnificent place to visit and by taking a little bit of care and thinking safety you will generally be fairly safe and have a great holiday.
This is the twenty-second page of 23 with related information about making the most of your caravan holiday. Check our website at www.crikey-adventure-tours.com/caravan-holiday.html for the other articles.
Ian Molloy is the owner of Crikey Adventure Tours. Visit his website http://www.crikey-adventure-tours.com for more information about this article and other related topics. He not only has his tour business operating from Peth in Western Australia, but his site is full of very helpful information. Some of these includes tips on motorcycle holidays http://www.crikey-adventure-tours.com/motorcycle-holiday.html, driving cross-country, caravanning and generally lots of tips about having a "camping" holiday.
Poisonous Plants To Avoid On Your Camping Trip
Poisonous Plants To Avoid On Your Camping Trip By: Darren Lintern
The three most notable toxic plants that you are likely to encounter on a camping trip are poison oak, poison ivy, and poison sumac. All of these have the potential to cause an itchy and painful rash. Being able to identify poisonous plants could be a useful skill.
Poison ivy is perhaps the most widespread of the three, as it has become well established all over Northern America. Poison ivy can be a low-growing shrub or vine that grows along the ground or as a high climbing woody vine. The leaves are typically a dull, dark green colour, but can become vivid red during the fall. It seldom appears above 5,000 feet, but the majority of campgrounds are below this altitude.
Poison oak also has multi lobed leaves, with white or tan berries on the branches. Often the leaves have toothed or scalloped edges and appear to be creased rather than flat as noticed on the poison ivy leaves. The leaves are divided into three leaflets, but five lobed leaves are present as well.
Poison oak is found in the sandy soils in the regions of southern New Jersey to Florida and common in western areas of the U.S. as well, such as Texas, Kansas, and Oklahoma. Some species are also noted in Washington, Oregon, in the Columbia River gorge, and Nevada.
Poison ivy is most notable in the east, whereas poison oak is typically more common in the south and west.
Of the three mentioned toxic plants, poison sumac is the least established. As it favours especially wet soils such as peat bogs and swamps. The leaves have a bluish green tint, often with red tones. The fruits on the bush are small white or grey coloured berries. Although, the least common, it has the most toxic poison of the three.
All three of the plants produce a toxic resin called urushiol, which is the cause for the unpleasant irritation to humans. In view of the fact that urushiol is oily it can quickly become spread across other parts of the body, such as the hands, and face just from casual brushing. The oil tends to bond to the skin cells it comes into contact with, and then stays there.
The irritation can vary from mild to severe and a cream like corisol is often used to treat the symptoms. If you suspect that you become into contact with Poison ivy, the first step is to avoid spreading it. Don't make contact with your face or other body parts.
Thoroughly washing the exposed skin with soap and water is the primary treatment, but once contact has been established some degree of effect is inevitable. Within fifteen minutes of the initial contact, the urushiol has become chemically bonded to the skin.
Applying a pharmaceutical product, such as a cream or spray will help to treat the effects, and avoid the temptation to start scratching. This can lead to a secondary infection. The rash will need up to two weeks to run its course, but it treated effectively the irritation will settle within a week.
Darren Lintern writes extensively for http://www.andallabout.com, a popular informational website that provides helpful tips, advice, and resources on many camping activities including Pup Tents, and Fly Fishing Vactions
Is Your Outdoor Gear Ready?
Is Your Outdoor Gear Ready By: James Veach
With the summer months just around the corner, now is the time to get your outdoor recreation gear out, dust it off and make sure all is in good working order.
North Dakota is one of the finest places in America to enjoy outdoor recreational activities. Whether it is camping, hiking, boating, horseback riding, or fishing, now is the time to get things ready.
If recreation camping is your thing checking your tent for damage would be a good idea. If a damaged area is found, it is rather inexpensive to be repaired at sewing shop.
Also waterproofing your outdoor camping tent is a very good idea. Here in the Upper Plains you never know when a thunder boomer may dump 2-3 inches of rain. Nothing I hate more than getting wet while camping in a tent.
Hiking national parks is a great way to get away from it all, and also a great source of exercise. A good pair of hiking boots is a must here. A good pair can be purchased at a reasonable price. No need in paying top dollar.
The main thing is to get a good fit when purchasing new hiking boots. A pair to large can cause blisters and a pair to small can make feet hurt and cramp up.
Fishing is my favorite pass time. Now is the time to get your outdoor fishing gear ready for the upcoming season. Oiling reels and checking rods for any malfunctions is good idea. Remember to get that tackle box organized and ready to go.
Mountain biking on the trails of North Dakota is a challenging adventure and becoming more and more popular all the time. Our state parks, state forests and grasslands have some great biking trails, for the novice to the seasoned pro.
Give your bike a good visual look over and check to make sure everything is secure and in place. Keep the chain lubricated and make sure the tire pressure is sufficient.
Now the most important, your outdoor recreation gear is now ready, your ready, the time has come "Get Out And Have Fun." Discover what is being offered here in North Dakota.
James Veach, Webmaster of Excelloutdoors North Dakota. A website all about the Great state of North Dakota. History, tourism, travel, outdoor recreation, and so much more.
The Importance Of Having More Than One Fishing Rod
The Importance Of Having More Than One Fishing Rod By: Trevor Kugler
There are some anglers who have just one fishing rod, and think that this fishing rod should suffice for all fishing situations. To me, this kind of thinking is the very definition of an amateur. The only way an angler would need only one fishing rod is if they only fish one small lake, and if they fish that lake in the exact same manner very time that they go fishing. And how many anglers do this? I would imagine not too many. If you're the person that I just described, then there is no reason to read this article, if you're not that person then read on.
Having more than one fishing rod is incredibly important, especially if you're anything like me. I spend 90% of my fishing time fishing the same river not only because I catch fish, but also because I just love the river. I'm primarily a wade fisherman and wade up and down the river, crossing it as I go, fishing the entire time. This is my favorite type of fishing, and it's what I spend 90% of my fishing time doing. But even though I fish the same river, for the same type of fish, having more than one fishing rod is amazingly important. Why? Because, as water conditions change, many times my fishing rod needs to change.
The type of fishing that I engage in is ultra light trout fishing. So as the water conditions change, which mostly means whether the water is high from run-off or low from drought, my rod needs to change with it. For this reason I have two ultralight rods. On that?s five feet long, and one that's six feet six inches long. This is very important because I've learned that the higher the water is the longer my rod needs to be. In high water, if I use my five-foot rod, feeling my bait and keeping it near bottom (which are both important) are all but impossible. However, if I simply switch to my six-foot six-inch rod, I can feel my bait and keep my bait near the bottom. Without having two fishing rods for fishing on my favorite river, I would catch half as many fish as I do.
The importance of having more than one fishing rod is incredible. This is true for almost every angler, and you know what? The cost of having a few extra fishing rods is minuscule. As a matter of fact, I almost never spend more than fifty bucks on a fishing rod, and mine last me quite a long time. If you want you can even switch your reel from rod to rod, which will help save money as well. However in a perfect world, just have at least two rod and reel combinations that simply have different rod lengths, just like I do. It will mean that you'll catch a lot more fish if you can simply change your rod length as water conditions change. It surely does for me.
Trevor Kugler Co-founder of JRWfishing.com Trevor has more than 20 years of fishing experience, 15 years of business experience and currently raises his 3-year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country......Montana.
Site Navigation 
