*Note: Some springs require caster camber plates depending on the drop, but you wont know for sure until you get your alignment. I recomend getting an alignment 3 weeks after the install so the springs have time to settle.

Rear Springs

• Jack up the rear of the car, support it with jack stands, and remove the wheels.

• Place the jack under the rear differential and jack up the rear end a little bit.
• Using a 15mm socket and a 18mm deep socket remove the nuts and bolts holding the rear shocks on both sides.

• Next remove the 18mm nuts holding the quad shocks to the frame on both sides and pull the quad shock off of the stud.

• Lower the jack all the way so the rear end drops.
• Starting on either side, push down on the disk brake, caliper, or whatever you can get your hands on and remove the stock rear springs. Dont worry, they arent going to fly out at you.
• After the stock springs are removed, transfer the isolators onto the new springs. I recommend using both isolators.
• Install the new springs by first placing the top of the spring in, then push down on the rear end again like before and install the bottom of the spring into the spring seat on the LCA (lower control arm). Make sure that the pig tail on the bottom of the spring is pointing towards the drivers side. If you cant push down on the rear enough to install the new springs then jack up the opposite side of the rear end. This will make the side that you are trying to install the spring lower.

• After you have the new springs installed, jack up the rear again by placing the jack under the differential. Jack up the rear enough so that the holes on the rear line up with the shocks and reinstall the nuts and bolts on both sides.
• Place the quad shock back onto the stud and reinstall the nut.
• Put the wheels back and torque the lugs to 100 ft. lbs using the star pattern,  remove the jacks, and lower the car.

Front Springs

*You can only do one side at a time unles you have two jacks.

• Place the jack under the k member and jack the car up, the higher the better. Support the car with jack stands.

• After you have the jacks in place, put the jack under one a arm and raise it a little bit.

• Using a 15mm deep socket, remove the two nuts and bolt holding the strut.

• Using a 15mm deep socket, remove the nut and bushing holding the sway bar.

• Using a 15mm deep socket, remove the two bolts holding the caliper. It is easier to use a deep socket on the top caliper bolt, for the lower one it doesnt matter if the socket deep or not. Leave the caliper on the disk for now.

• Using needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin near the tie rod end. Using a 18mm deep socket, remove the crown nut near the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end from the spindle by hammering the spindle, not the actual tie rod. Keep hammering it until the tie rod falls out.

• Using a E8 torx bit, or small 12 point socket, remove the small screw holding the abs sensor. (Also pictured above). Unclip the ABS wire from the plastic clip and metal hook on the braket.
• Take the caliper off of the disk and let it hang for a couple of seconds. Slowly lower the jack so the a arm drops. Hold onto the strut while you lower the jack or else the top of the strut will get hung up in the fender well. After you have lowered the jack/ a arm, stick the caliper up into the fender well. You shouldnt let the caliper hang for too long.

• Once you have lowered the a arm, push down on the a arm and remove the stock spring. I like to pull the stock spring out with a hammer or something so my hand doesnt get all scratched up when the spring slides out. The spring wont shoot out, but it does come out kind of rough.

• Once the stock spring is removed, transfer the isolators. I always use the top isolator, however, I have never used the bottom isolator on my car or any of the other cars Ive installed springs on. This is so I can get the extra 1/4" or so drop. Ive heard of people complain of noise because they left the bottom isolator out, but I have never noticed it and neither have any of the other people whose springs Ive helped install. It is your choice whether you want to use the bottom isolator or not.
• After the isolators are on the new springs, install the new springs so that only one hole will be covered up in the spring seat. To do this I like to place the spring in the bottom seat first in the correct position, then I tilt the spring up, remove it from the bottom seat, and place the spring in the top seat. (It is harder to put the spring in the bottom seat first then the top). When the spring is installed I double check and make sure only one hole will be covered when I raise the a arm. 
• Place the jack under the a arm and start to raise it. Make sure you are holding onto the strut and guide it back into the strut tower. If you raise the jack without doing this when it will scratch your paint as you raise the a arm higher. Also, as you are raising the a arm back up, you will need to guide the rod that goes through the sway bar. I also like to check the spring one last time to make sure its only covering one hole.
• As you raise the a arm back into place you will need to remove the caliper and let it hang for a couple seconds.
• After you have raised the a arm back up, and guided the strut back into position, place the caliper back onto the disk and reinstall the two 15mm bolts.
• Reinstall the 15mm nut and bushing back onto the sway bar.
• Put the tie rod end through the spindle and reinstall the 18mm nut and cotter pin.
• Place the ABS sensor wire back onto the metal clip, then into the plastic clip, then reinstall the sensor and small E8 torx bit screw.
• Reinstall the two 15mm nuts and 15mm bolt back into the top of the strut.
• Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lugs as much as possible, you will torque them to 100 ft. lbs after you lower the car. Be sure to toque the lugs using the star pattern.
• Repeat these steps on the other side.

Toruqe Specs Front

• ball joint to steering knuckle nuts- 120ft. lbs
• strut to steering knuckle bolts- 150ft. lbs
• strut to strut tower nuts and bolt- 34ft. lbs (in case you decide to remove the strut totally, or remove it from the steering knuckle instead of the strut tower.)
• tie rod end nuts- 40ft. lbs
• caliper anchor plate bolts- 85ft. lbs (technically there are 4 bolts per side that hold the caliper on. For this install you need to remove the entire caliper, which would be the larger of the 4 bolts on the caliper. These connect the caliper to the steering knuckle. The torque is different for the smaller 2 bolts.)
• sway bar link nuts- 150ft. lbs

Torque Specs Rear

• quad shock to car bolts- 65ft. lbs
• quad shock to axle bolts- 65ft. lbs (incase you decide to remove it totally, or remove it from the axle instead.)
• shock to axle bolts- 65ft. lbs