Despite the fact I am half Italian, Italy’s most planted red grape Sangiovese always passed me by. However I took a closer look this month and discovered some delectable examples…

            Sangiovese is the main ingredient in the Tuscan wine Chianti. It makes wines with good structure, though not always dramatic colour. Like most Italians it is notably capricious with flavours ranging from sweet tobacco to concentrated cherries, even wild herbs. Avoid anything in wicker-bound ‘fiasco’ bottles.

            I recently attended a wine master class at Decanter Magazine’s Italian Fine Wine Encounter. The host, Marchesi Piero Antinori, is Italy’s most influential winemaker. A bottle of his 1990 Solaia costs £274 (Berry Bros. & Rudd), and tastes it. His celebrated Tignanello caused sensation when it emerged in 1975 because it included then forbidden varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon in a Sangiovese blend. This lead to accusations from Italy’s winemaking authorities of “vinous treachery” despite the fact his ancestor used a similar practice at the beginning of last century. He has since been renamed a new wave winemaker of so-called Super Tuscans and achieved genius status.

            Fortunately you can glimpse Antinori’s brilliance without re-mortgaging. Slowly enjoy his elegant, oaky Villa Antinori, (£9.99, Majestic, Waitrose). It is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, a local variety that adds silkiness to this meditative blockbuster.

            I tasted another Super-Tuscan at the event: the sophisticated, toasty Dogajolo, (£7.99, Majestic). Like Tignanello it includes a little Cabernet providing a soft blackcurrant backbone.  It accompanies roast meats, particularly spring lamb with a sprig of rosemary. Independent family butcher G. J. Douglas of Newport Pagnell has a high-quality supply and can offer sound culinary advice, (T. 01908 610421). 

            I also discovered a seriously under-priced Sangiovese in the form of the excellent Marchesini Chianti (£3.99) from Central Wine Exchange, Exchange House, (01908 234484). Expect friendly service from this multi-faceted shop with an exciting range.  Glug it with fresh egg pasta tossed in butter, black pepper and sprinkled with shavings of the startlingly orange Mimolette Reserve hard cheese from Flanders. It was Charles De Gaulle’s best-loved fromage and is available from the deli equivalent of a treasure trove: Country House Fine Foods, Castle Ashby, (01604 696742). 

            Sangiovese can disappoint when planted outside Italy, so choose carefully.  However Fetzer’s slightly sweet organic Bonterra Mendocino from California (£9.99 Oddbins) is skilfully made, as is the mint chocolatey Step Road Sangiovese: an Italian with an Australian accent!  (Waitrose £6.99).