Mulino, meaning 'Mill', is located amidst one of Milton Keynes' more sympathetic architectural developments - the Warren Farm office village at Wolverton Mill. It is run by Marco, who took over the restaurant eight months ago. Despite being somewhat out of the way, it was approaching full capacity when my father and I dined there on a blustery grey Tuesday afternoon. Indeed it is advisable to book.

On arrival, we were impressed by the engaging welcome and the ensuing polish of our waiter, who sat us in the bright, warm open plan dining room overlooking a large terrace. Instead of partaking of aperitifs, we were recommended a Gavi, ‘Villa Sparina’, a classic sprightly white made from gnarled Cortese vines in Italy’s Piedmont region. We ordered from the fixed price menu (£11 for three courses, £9.50 for two). The choice was plentiful enough to cause us pause for thought. However our waiter was more than happy to provide an enthusiastic explanation of the dishes. We both chose ‘Pesce Spada Affumicato’ (Smoked Swordfish with Rocket Salad and Pomegranate dressing), followed by ‘Orata Rossa in Guazzetto con Patate’ (Sautee Pink Bream with Potatoes).

The swordfish had been lightly smoked, and then sliced into silky fins on a grade one setting (similar to carpaccio). These had then been artistically arranged over a stack of verdantly fresh rocket leaves. The pomegranate dressing, which featured large, bright seeds, was then drizzled around the perimeter. This speciality, which is rarely seen on British menus, originates from Lampedusa.

The pink bream was elegantly cooked, retaining its succulent, flaky texture. The plum tomato sauce and small, buttery potatoes, worked in perfect harmony.

Overall my father and I were struck by the quality and freshness of both dishes. Far better prepared, and better cared for, than the impoverished selection of fish in the supermarkets.

We followed on with a homemade apple tart, featuring crisp, thick pastry, and then a shot of grappa, and the best espresso macchiatos sampled outside of Rome.

Marco told us about the emerging program of events he is planning at Mulino. One such, which he is keen to build upon the success of, was the recent ‘Art Gallery’ at the restaurant. Local contemporary artists were encouraged to exhibit their canvasses against the lofty stone walls of the restaurant. Alongside, a tailored menu was served. Highlights included ‘Cezanne’s Soup’ (yellow squash and pak choi with sweet chilly and cream), and ‘Giotto’s Circle’ (mixed herb crust fillet of salmon with warm salad of orange and fennel in parsley and tarragon dressing). Another Art Gallery is planned for July.