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DOUGLAS BLYDE



Wine Journalism

Tasting at The Italian Embassy
2nd March 2006


Angelo Gaja

  • Alteni di Brassica Sauvignon Blanc 1998 (magnum)
    Pale in colour but with a deepish core with an instant fumé note on the nose (slightly stewed perhaps). Two magnums demonstrated the same characteristics (?) Nonetheless a high acidity prevails with a lingering aftertaste.

  • Gaia & Rey Chardonnay 1997
    Pale autumn straw in colour with a definite rim forming, absolutely full with a piercing intensity and a slight game quality on the nose. On the palate full greengages, high acidity and a dry but full mouthfeel. Awesome, with subtle multi layered oak intensity (with some caramel) and a staggering aftertaste. Overall very structured.

  • Ca'Marcanda 2003
    Purple in colour, intense with some toffee on the nose. Overall very pleasantly dry with good tannins and a slight boskiness. Very good indeed.

  • Barbaresco 2001
    Definite rim, very light in colour (sun-bleached brick) suggesting to me gentle pressing. Balsamic spice on the nose with good, firm (but supple) tannins.

  • Barbaresco 1989 (magnum)
    Somehow deeper in colour. Well-integrated nose with slightly sinewy sweetness, seemingly "more casual". An intense minerality with mentholated cherry fruit on the nose. Feels like the optimum window to be drinking this although there is plenty of tannin still very evident. Very dry and gentle with a long-lived aftertaste. Absolutely alive.

  • Sperss 2001
    Light coloured, a touch closed on the nose with a hint of parma violets and very subtle with a slight caramel edge. Soft, restrained intensity evocative of warmed Mediterranean rockpools. Soft stone fruits (ripe plums) on the palate with dry tannins. Seems quite a traditional wine. Needs the key of time to unlock its full potential perhaps...

  • Sperss 1990
    Approaching terracotta in colour and ageing gracefully, poignant sweet carpaccio on the nose with a riesling-like steel core. Very well made and harmonious. Good vintage. Somewhat of a full frontal assault (by a beautiful lithe lady). Angelic even. Feminine. Solid tannins nonetheless. Very good/delightful.

  • Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille 2000
    A strong wine, awesome, with intense penetration, silky tannins, a very well put together structure. Nontheless quite a simple wine with elegance, like a great Pinot Noir. Long tuning fork aftertaste. Very good indeed.

  • Promis 2003
    Blackcurrant, exceedingly accessible with a touch of white pepper. Zippy.


    Tenuta San Guido

  • Guidalberto 2004
    Deceptively rustic label obscures this dark wine which is full strength and brawny-ish with it (but a restrained fighter). I can't eschew fresh tuna in sunflower oil, which is also on the palate. Definite fructose-feel on the finish.

  • Guidalberto 2003
    More restrained on the nose, though the tuna is still there, this time only slightly. A touch of mild rubber and artichoke heart on the palate. Very dry tannins with a solid appetitsing aftertaste. Good.

  • Sassicaia 2003
    Medium red in colour with a little residiual sugar. Elegantly balanced with an edge of fresh watercress on the nose and a "racy vibe". On the palate, a hint of crushed stalks and a slight green bell pepper complement this wine's definite earthiness.

  • Sassicaia 2002
    Despite the year being overall pretty poor, this wine evokes a touching caramel sweetness, maybe mascarpone and caramel. Gently smokey with a lactic (yoghurt) side. Very lively on the palate with dry tannins and an aftertaste that is more of a procession. Ever so slightly reminiscent of amarone but without the overriding bitterness. Quite an honest wine (and somehow rustic) with berrys.

  • Sassicaia 2000
    Very elegant, superb, "liquid perception" with a very smooth quality and a long-lived (Duracell) aftertaste.

  • Sassicaia 1998
    Showing a brickiness in colour and again a touch of bell pepper, this is a very intense wine on the palate with white fruit flavours, and a warming blackcurrant leafiness. Slight TCA reduced the impact of an outstanding wine. Sharp aftertaste nearly trips one up. A suprising wine.

    Thank you to the Ambassador Giancarlo Aragona KCVO, Angelo Gaja, Nicolo Incida della Rocchetta and Armit for their kind invitation to this event.


    A Few Words on Vintage

    Because the united Italy offers such diverse terrain and climate, it is hard to generalise about vintages, however good years for Barolo and Barbaresco include: '85, '88, '89, '90, '93, and most of the late '90s. With Chianti many vintages of the late '90s have also been noteworthy, especially '97. '91 and '92 are thought best avoided.

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