Masked Shrike - Cape Greco - Cyprus 2005 - photo :Gary Messenbird

April 13th 2005, Gatwick Airport, the adventure starts here!This is it, departing England and not returning for six-months, quite a nice feeling really, but also quite daunting. Destination Larnaca airport, Cyprus, or should I say sunny Cyprus. Thats get things into perspective, I am going to Cyprus to work for the summer, not six months of complete freedom, to spend the time birding!Well when I mention work, I was going there to DJ which involves working at night, leaving daytimes free, too good to be true! Living abroad is something that has always appealed to me, but this opportunity arose somewhat short notice, so had limited time to do much research on what birds to expect to come across in Cyprus. Purchasing 'A Birdwatchers Guide To Cyprus' by Arthur Stagg & Graham Hearl and my uncle kindly handing me 'Finding Birds in Cyprus' by Dave Gosney, it wasn't long before I established that where I was based, neither book really covered the eastern side of the island which is where I was going to be based, except an area called 'Cape Greco' or 'Kavo Grecko'. This area was described as under-watched, this was the area that I decided would be my 'local patch'. To be fair all I knew was that I was gonna be staying near Protaras/Paralimini, so a lot of groundwork, map reading and getting my bearings together was in order once I arrived. A four hour or so flight later and putting the watch 2hours forward I was in sunny Cyprus, greeted by Swifts and House Martin's as I entered into the airport building. A forty-five minute taxi ride later I was at my hotel were I was staying for the next two-months at least. The following day, I decided to pack my bag with my bins, plenty of water and go for a wander. It's a weird feeling venturing out not knowing where you are exactly. Heading down the road I heard a call that I instantly remember from Spain, Fan-Tailed Warblers were calling everywhere!Also numerous Swallow's were hunting insects over the ploughed fields. Turning left at the first roundabout signposted for Agia Trias, I eventually reached the coastline. Here was a sheltered small sandy bay, as I reached the sand a Nightingale blasted it's presence from a dense thicket. Turning left here I ventured northbound towards Famagusta. Alomg this track not many birds were in evidence apart from plenty of House Sparrows in large flocks, but managed to flush a Hoopoe and Cetti's and Reed Warbler were heard singing from the reedbeds. Also Sparrowhawk seen hunting, seen well enough to rule out Levant Sparrowhawk unfortunatley!Also in evidence nemerous Crested Larks and more Fan-Tailed Warbler.Walking north from the Malama Beach Hotel reached a slight change in habitat, here in the bushes a female Blackcap was seen and more flittering further alomg revealed 2+Willow Warblers, it was whilst observing these two larger warblers were chasing each other, eventually revealing themselves, in the same field of view I had Icterine Warbler and Olivaceous Warbler, top stuff!

The following day, a similar walk which took in the same route as yesterday, had a medium sized warbler that couldn't get quite enough on it but looking at it now it was likely to be a female Orphean Warbler, but this bird had me scrambling through the Collins Guide with no obvious conclusion, one that got away!Otherwise there were less warblers in evidence, but butterflies were out in force and amognst the ones I could identify were Swallowtail, Clouded Yellow and Painted Lady. Ventured further south today from Agia Tria headed towards Pernera and managed to see 3 Black-Eared Wheatears, including two stunning males one very bright and the other more creamy in colour, two different forms. Added to my Cyprus list today with Kestrel, Wagtails overhead including Grey, Yellow and White + 2 Tree Pipits. The same route taken the following day, less birds around apart from Hooded Crows in greater evidence, 5 Swifts over Kapparis, Greenfinch, unusual sighting of a Purple Heron migrating northwards late evening. Feeling was that I had exhausted this area, Cape Greco was calling!

17th April, having seen the road signs and gradually getting my bearings together, I realised that now was the time to hire a bike and cyle the 15/20km to Cape Greco. Exhausting stuff, a journey that was to take me around an hour. Fortunatley on this route there are plenty of roadside cycle tracks, which did suprise me, but no complaints, hired a mountain bike for the week for £20cyp approx £25 English. Following the roadsigns, taking me past Protaras and heading of the main road taking me to the most South-Eastern tip of Cyprus. For me looking at the location, this place had to be perfect for stop-over migrants, and fortunatley I was right. Stopping off en route to see Spectacled Warblers, Whitethroat and Lesser Whitethroats, heading down the road towards the Cape itself, I suddenly noticed a small harrier hunting over the field next to the road I was following down, getting a quick glimpse I soon realised that I was watching a young Pallid or Montagu's Harrier. I was able to get very close to this bird as it hunted in front of me and in perfect light was able to establish it was a Pallid. The bird drifted further off and went down on some prey, so I ventured on. As I passed the fields the habitat turned very rocky with juniper scrub, this soon got even more exciting, there were pockets of migrants all along this track, obviously caught a fall, soon I was watching my first Cyprus Wheatears, and soon got familiar with thier buzzing call, stunning birds, soon as I was wondering where to look next a Isabelline Wheatear flew past me and landed looking at me cautiously standing very upright, also a lifer. Birds were flitting all over and the next patch of scrub contained many Whitethroats, Whinchats and then the 'gem' a super male Ruppells Warbler feeding up about ten yards from me, when it was joined by a male Subalpine Warbler, again another lifer showing well until they were both chased off by a pair of Spectacled Warbler! More treats were on store as I was getting to grips with these new species, if the day was to end now I would be more than happy!A few more Cyprus Wheatears were seen, along with a scattering of 'our' Northern Wheatears. Most of Cape Greco is fenced off due to a communication site which is a shame as looking through the wired fence there is plenty more scrub in which migrants are lurking, scanning this habitat I was soon feasting my eyes on my first Masked Shrike a female that was sitting out offering good views. Garden Warblers and Blackcaps were also seen here and was also treated to good views of Nightingale. Can this day be beaten?On the way back up-hill, I may add, the Pallid Harrier put on another show for me, then I was treated to a male Masked Shrike sitting on telegraph wires, actually singing for me aswell! Also of note on my cycle route to Greco there is a nature trail that is on the main road in-between Protaras and the Cape Greco turn-off, here I had a Peregrine Falcon, Sardinian Warblers and Goldfinches. Treated myself to a deserved pint or three on the way home as was well and truly de-hydrated!

Wednesday 20th April

Cape Greco again today where I had the time to explore that little bit more!Cyprus Wheatears were more abundant, and there were similar number of Warblers to that of my previous visit. Warblers included a male Ruppells. Whinchat were present in good numbers and also ten Turtle Doves in off the sea heading northwards. Another Isabelline Wheatear seen + my first Jackdaw in Cyprus!Woodchat Shrikes seemed to be on the move today aswell with 4birds being seen, but the complete highlight was discovery of a male Collared Flycatcher accompanied with a female Pied Flycatcher and two other female Collared Flycatchers, this find really was exciting as this was one of my target species for Cyprus

Sunday 24th April

More excitement again as I discovered my first Roller, one of many that I was to see in Cyprus but you can't beat the magic of not only seeing a bird for the first time, but to actually find your own. Quite a shy bird and was easily flushed but managed to offer top views before flew out of sight only for me to re-locate it, a top bird indeed. Also turned out to be another Flycatcher day with Collared, Pied and Spotted all seen in reasonable numbers. Common Redstart and a single Ortlan Bunting were noted. Another good day and other highlights included sightings of Isabelline, Cyprus and Northern Wheatear, Turtle Doves, Woodchat Shrikes, Black-Headed Bunting, Wood Warbler and several Bee-Eaters.

Bee-Eater - One of many seen in Cyprus, Photo : Nick Bond

Tuesday 26th April

Audouins Gull in off the sea on my local patch flying right over my head!Sand Martin and White Wagtail also noted along with migrating Bee-Eaters heard going over my appartments on several occassions.

Wednesday 27th April

Shrike Day!Woodchat, Red-Backed and Lesser Grey Shrike all seen today and there was a general scattering of common migrants but worth mentioning 2 Eastern Bonnelli's Warblers, male Orphean Warbler, another male Collared Flycatcher, Spotted Flycatchers, Common Redstarts, Tree Pipits and Turtle Doves were present in good numbers. A Marsh Harrier was also hunting over roadside fields and Black-Headed Bunting were taking up residence. A pair of Black-Eared Wheatears were also noted

Thursday 28th April

Lots of the commoner warblers were seen in lesser numbers today, but Shrike numbers had increased with at least 12 Woodchat Shrikes seen and 6 Red-Backed Shrikes including some stunning males. Colour was the theme with Golden Oriole, Bee-eaters, Black-Headed Bunting and four species of Wheatear, Isabelline, Northern, Black-Eared and Cyprus all seen and a confiding Wryneck for good measure.

Black - Headed Bunting - Cape Greco - Cyprus May 2005 - Gary Messenbird

My uncle joined us on the 8th May for two weeks where we packed as much birding as possible aswell as allowing plenty of relaxation in the growing heat.

The following sightings are a combination of notes by myself and Gary Messenbird

Larnaca area, May 8th 2005 - 4 summer-plumaged White-Winged Black Terns, 3 Little Terns, 1st S Little Gull, 30+ Yellow Legged Gulls, 2 Greater Flamingos, 2 Red-Necked Phalaropes, 2 Temmincks Stints, 30+Little Stints, 5+Marsh Sandpipers, 10 Curlew Sandpipers, 5+Kentish Plovers, 5 Black-Winged Stilts, 1 Spotted Redshank, 200+Ruff, 1 Grey Plover, 1 Turnstone, a few Ringed Plover, Turnstone, 12 Squacco Herons, 2 Marsh Harriers, Little Egrets, male Garganey, highlight for me was finding a male Citrine Wagtail!.

May 9th 2005

Migrants thinner on the ground today, 3 male Cyprus Wheatears, Redstart, Whinchat, 10c Spotted Flycatchers, 3 Spanish Sparrows, 2 Lesser Kestrels, Hoopoe, Spectacled Warblers, Black-Headed Buntings and Turtle Dove all seen. Afternoon spent at the Larnaca area where the 1st summer Little Gull was still present, 1 White-Winged Black Tern, 3 Little Terns, 2 Common Terns, 2 Black-Tailed Godwits, 10+Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stints, 200+Ruff, 1 Golden Plover, 1 Red-Necked Phalarope and a stunning Black-Headed Wagtail.

May 10th

Locally there was a Cory's Shearwater seen offshore, 2 Common Sandpipers, 1 Shag and 2+Blackcaps, elsewhere migrants really starting to thin out but 1 Isabelline Wheatear, 1 Redstart, a pair of Subalpine Warblers, and a Flava Yellow Wagtail of the sub-species 'Superciliris' South-East Russian form. Spotted Flycatchers and Bee-eaters in good numbers today

May 11th

Larnaca area again where another good variety was on offer, treated to a single Spur-Winged Plover  here, pair of Black-Headed Wagtails, Pintail, Black-Necked Grebe, 15+ Wood Sandpipers, 5 Sanderling, also 4 Rollers were seen exploring a bit further inland in the hills just west of Larnaca.

Roller - Distant record shot

May 13th

Another major fall of migrants today, with counts of 4 Masked Shrikes, 6 Lesser Grey Shrikes, 1 Woodchat Shrikes, 30+ Red Backed Shrikes, 3 Rollers, 1 Hoopoe, 1 Corn Bunting, 1 Tawny Pipit, 1 Red-Throated Pipit, 5 Short-Toed Larks, 4 Blackcaps, 3 Olivaceous Warblers, 1 'Beema' Wagtail, 5 Bee-eaters, Black-Headed Bunting. Migration was in full swing with 35 Greater Flamingos flying east and another highlight a single Thrush Nightingale was seen skulkingly. Eleonora's Falcon a light phase bird also seen along with a single Hobby as photographed and showed on the birds of Cyprus. Locally 50+Bee-eaters moved through our hotel area and a evening trip rewarded us with a single Icterine Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Redstart, Whinchat, 2 male Masked Shrikes, good numbers of Red-Backed Shrikes still lingering and a female Marsh Harrier in off the sea.

May 14th

Migrants still trickling through with 2 Rollers, 5c Red-Backed Shrikes, a pair of Masked Shrikes, 5 Beema Wagtails flew overhead, male Redstart, 5c Spotted Flycatchers, Icterine Warbler again, 5 Woodlark, adult female Honey Buzzard being mobbed by a Kestrel and the resident Fan-Tailed Warblers, Spectacled Warblers, Cyprus Wheatears, Crested Larks and Chuckers all in evidence today.

May 15th

A visit to the local sea caves with my sister and brother-in-law brought an un-expected Alpine Swift with a single Sand Martin in off the sea, parading for a short while before moving swiftly north

May 16th

What a day. Very actioned packed with plenty of good birds, here it goes!

Took the car to the Limassol region where we planned on visiting key sites to see some specials today. En route to this area my uncle spotted a male Black Francolin singing whilst sitting on top of a hale bale, offering great views. At our first location the target species was Eleonora's Falcon and Cyprus Warbler. We were not dissapointed. Within an hour had excellent views of Eleonora's Falcons with at least five different birds noted. Also at least two Cyprus Warblers were present with the male showing and singing superbly. Other birds noted were a minimum of 5 Alpine Swifts, 2 Cyprus Pied Wheatears a female Woodchat Shrike and a scattering of Sardinian and Olivaceous Warblers thrown in. On to the next site where we visited one of the larger salt lakes and surrounding pools, here we found a large variety of birds which consisted of the following :1 adult Night Heron, 1 Glossy Ibis, 1 Great White Egret, loads of Greater Flamingos(too many to count)! 20+Little Egrets, 10+Curlew Sandpipers, 8+Little Stints, Ruff, Kentish + Ringed Plovers, Dunlin, drake Garganey, Whiskered Tern, female Marsh Harrier, Eleonora's Falcon, Cetti's, Fan-Tailed and Olivaceous Warblers.

Moving to our final site of the day we were treated to a pair of Cretszmars Buntings which at times showed down to few feet, whilst watching these gems we were treated to 2 Rollers, Cyprus Warblers and Wheatears. As by reading this, you would agree, what a day!

May18th

A days rest was at hand after the day trip out on the 16th with a morning and afternoons trip out locally produced a few migrants with a female Golden Oriole and a male Citrine Wagtail the highlights with a supporting cast of Red-Throated Pipit, 'beema' Wagtail, Tree Pipit, 1 Woodchat and 5 Red-Backed Shrikes, Northern Wheatear, Whinchat, female Marsh Harrier and a Hobby.

May 19th

A day trip again, this time to the mountains where we were spoilt by good views in beautiful scenery, I cannot describe in words, you will have to experience this yourself. Throughout the day we made our way around the mountains taking in the birds and the scenery as we stopped on many occassions. A pair of Crag Martin's were located at a suitable site, and as we toured the mountains we added the 'chocolate' Coal Tit to our list aswell as Short-Toed Treecreeper, Crossbill with a female and juv showing well, Jays that also appearing different to our race, 15c Eleonara's Falcons including a couple of dark phased birds catching insects on the wing above the trees. Serin's were also seen aswell as 3 Cretszmar's Bunting's, 2 Hoopoes, Woodlark, Olivaceous Warblers, Cyprus Wheatears and 10c Red-Rumped Swallows. In one of the picnic sites great views were to be had of Masked Shrike, other highlights were Nightingale, Pallid and Common Swifts.

 Photo : Nick Bond

Red - Rumped Swallow's - Always a delight to see, either in flight on on the ground

August 14th

A visit to the Larnaca sewage works produced a suprising find with a spectacular White Pelican that was sat on the main causeway. Otherwise very quiet here today with the odd Calandra Lark showing. It is the first time I have seen the species at this site.

August 28th

Information received from the Cyprus birdline ensured a early morning two-hour trip across island to the Akritori salt lakes just south of Limassol. I was making this journey as a small group of Demoiselle Cranes had arrived and roosted over night there. I was advised to get there first light and thats what I did and through the bins I could see a small group of distant Cranes. I knew these had to be Demoiselle as Common Cranes do not pass through in number until later in the year. I noticed a small group of birders furter around the lake so I drove and joined the friendly group and was soon having scope views of Demoiselle Cranes. I counted 21 birds, and within the hour the were off taking off high continuing on their journey. These were joined in the air by a further 7 birds which seemed to arrive from the Lady Miles beach area. Fantastic stuff, and a White Stork was a welcome bonus aswell. Demoiselle Cranes were recorded on passage at Akritori for only three consecutive days as they use this as a 'stop-over' whilst on migration.

 Driving back I felt like I still had a full day in front of me so visited the Larnaca sewage works again. This proved a lot more rewarding than my visit two previous. The White Pelican was still present, and performed a lot better today as was reguarly seen in flight and on water (where was my camera)! Spectacular sight.

Main highlight though was six Spur-Winged Plovers calling and landing directly in-front of the hide offering fantastic views of this elegant species. A male Marsh Harrier also showed well as did 2 Greater Flamingoes, a single Black-Winged Stilt.

Migration was getting back in swing with hundreds of hirundines present mainly Swifts, Sand Martins and Swallows. 3 Marsh Sandpipers and a single Common Sandpiper passed through. Terns were also numerous and provided some tricky id challenges. I recorded a single White-Winged Black Tern, 3 Black Terns, 2 Whiskered Terns and a single Gull-Billed Tern so a nice variety but many moulting into winter plumages. 2 Red-Backed Shrikes were seen one adult, one juvenile, 1 Whinchat and Spectacled Warblers and Crested Larks were present.  

Also of note nearby there were 70c Kentish Plovers on Sphiro's Pool which had virtually dried out.

Birdline Cyprus reported another 136 Demoiselle Cranes came into roost this evening.

August 31st

Poss Desert Wheatear seen at Cape Greco, looked good for one but just could get enough to clinch this very flighty Wheatear, also 20c Willow Warblers in the area 2+ Spotted Flycatchers, 3 Red-Backed Shrikes all adult males, and plenty of hirundines moving through.

September Round-up

Red-Backed Shrikes reguarly seen until 15th, large movement of Bee-eaters all throughout the month, with some flocks of over 100 at a time, stunning! Hoopoes seen 13th,15th. Isabelline Wheatears featured with 2+ on 17th with Black-Eared Wheatear, 2 Red-Throated Pipits, Lesser Whitethroat and Red-Footed Falcon seen on the same date. 19th onwards produced large movements of hirundines and good number of Whinchat, Redstart, Cyprus Wheatear, Spotted Flycatchers, Willow Warblers and Chiff Chaffs were seen on most dates. Another 3 Isabelline Wheatears were seen on the 20th Eleanora's Falcon was obseved, 2 Red-Backed Shrikes, 1 + Masked Shrikes, 10c Cyprus Wheatears, 30+ Whinchats, Red-throated Pipits overhead, and a Yellow Wagtail sp all on this date.

After a storm on the 29th again large flocks of Bee-eaters were on the move and large number of migrants noticeably grounded all around the local area. Had a flock of at least 4 Red-Footed Falcons which posed on a telegraph wire for long periods, no males amongst them, but these birds are delightful whichever age and sex. A single Honey Buzzard was also heading south.

October 2nd

Flew back to London