The Commonwealth Room
On a number of my visits to The OffCenter Grill, I have passed through The Yorktowne Hotel lobby on my way to my car. On these occasions, I could not help but to stop and read the magnificent menu of The Commonwealth Room, The Yorktowne Hotel's original formal dining room. The fare offered on this Winter menu is without compare, including such items as elk loin, barramundi, a Belgian endive and arugula salad, snapper soup, to name but a few of the less exotic dishes. (I would not want to tantalize your taste buds too much with my review just yet.) After my most recent breakfast at the OffCenter Grill, I was curious if anything had been done to update the restaurants' online menus for the new season, so I took a peek at www.Yorktowne.com. I was pleasantly surprised to find that The Commonwealth Room's Spring menu has been posted as a teaser, I suppose. The flavorful menagerie to be offered for our consumption is just too tempting for me to avoid making a trip to the restaurant to see how the flavors, textures, and presentations meld into one. Knowing the magic that Chef Mark Pawlowski is capable of working in the kitchen with his team of elf-like chefs, I am sure that I will not be disappointed. The choices of elk, ostrich, and quail are only the tip of the iceberg! The anticipation is killing me!
While thinking about this divine torture and growing hungrier by the minute, I decided that I should make a point to try the existing menu while I still have the 
chance, so I made reservations for the next night and contacted Chef Mark to get some insight into the menu he presents.
Chef Mark told me that he gains his inspiration for the exotic menu from doing a great deal of research, using books, the Internet, past experiences, menus, etc. "What we consider when making seasonal menu changes in The Commonwealth Room is what is in season, and then try to pair the fresh ingredients with the center of the plate item, which is where I like to incorporate some common haute cuisine ingredients as well as some more exotic things, like the ostrich or elk--things that are unique and not as common...."
I was glad to learn that Chef Robert Faucette's desserts, available in The OffCenter Grill, are also offered in The Commonwealth Room. Such housemade creations are a definite boon to any restaurant as they are not only delicious, but also creative and appealing to the eye as well. Such a unique ending to a meal provides the diner with a positive last impression to cap off what has hopefully been a tremendous experience all around.
The Experience
I arrived a bit early for my reservation so that I might explore The Hotel's lobby. I was pleasantly surprised to find that The Commonwealth Room offers a lobby bar with a table of crudites for Hotel guests and restaurant guests, like myself, who have arrived early. The mixologist was well informed about the various brands she carries, was as very matter of fact with the high quality of the speed rack, and knew her scotches and wines. I was quite impressed. This could be a good omen.
I asked to be seated at 5:45. From the moment I entered The Commonwealth Room, I was treated like a royal guest. This was a new experience. (I could get used to this!) My table was actually pulled out for me so that I could take the seat of honor in a rich, soft, leather booth (though that does not seem to be the correct word to describe this seating arrangement.) My water was poured, and my server asked if I would like to see the wine menu.
The Commonwealth Room's wine menu, ladies and gentlemen, is a book of more than 200 wines. It includes vintages from around the world in all price ranges for the discerning oenophile, as well as some more "fun" wines for the casual wine drinkers. The Commonwealth Room even offers a selection of fine Ports. A few wine tasting groups apparently meet here to enjoy the wines in the menu and compare notes. This, I suggest, would make for a great reason for friends to meet and enjoy the lush surroundings, taste the food, and have a grand time! While poring through the wine list, the General Manager, Mr. Mark Clossey, introduced himself and offered me a newspaper to read. I declined, but noted the kind indulgence.
I examined the menu for some time, but was unable to decide upon a meal. I noticed that the Room offers what is called "The Chef's Taster." This is a four course meal designed by the chef. I asked my server about this, and he informed me that almost always, these four courses are prepared off menu so that I will not recognize my meal as coming from the choices I have just mulled over. I was greatly excited by this prospect and ordered this choice right away! My server asked if I have any food allergies, so that the chef can safely feed me, I presume, and placed my order.
I spent some time talking with my server about the wine list. He had mastered this list in a way that makes him an asset to The Commonwealth Room. His knowledge of the various vintages, their colors, tastes, acidities, finishes, and how well they will complement specific dishes impressed me well enough that I asked him to choose a glass of wine for my entree. I was utterly unable to choose a wine from the tome of wines in front of me, but my server has impressed me enough that I want to see if he is able to live up to this impression. (I am familiar with wines and can identify a good wine vs. a bad wine, also I know when a wine accompanies a dish correctly.) In passing, I mentioned an Italian winery to my server just to see if he had heard of it. Not only had he heard of it, he was able to find one of their selections on The Commonwealth Room's wine list for me! Now, I knew I was in the presence of greatness. As it turned out, my server happened to be the Commonwealth Room's sommelier, so I was in for a sure treat.
My first course arrived: Foie Gras in apricot brandy infused demi glaze served with seared scallop served over an apricot-mango chutney, accompanied by a filo crisp. The delicate foie gras was succulent. The flavors of the goose liver cascaded over my palate with the soft apricot brandy demi lifting it gently. The scallop, seared on the outside, was just rare inside, as it should be. Combined with the sweet, sticky chutney, this was not only pleasing to the tongue with the melding of flavors, it was also an aromatic adventure. The filo crisp was a perfect medium for carrying both the demi and the chutney once the main characters to the course had been eaten. The light, crispy dough absorbed the flavors without overpowering them, making for a wonderful finish to the course.
The second course was quite creative and very refreshing: Belgium endive and arugula salad. This consisted of Granny Smith apples, poached D'Anjou pears, Roquefort crumble, and Balsamic syrup glaze. The chef used the arugula to create the bowl, around which he arranged the Belgium endive and the D'Anjou pears. The endive was a treat, crisp and flavorful The pears were fabulous! Sweet and slightly softened by the poaching, these fanned out morsels absolutely melted in my mouth. Inside of the bowl, the crisp, fresh Granny Smith apples had been diced, with the Roquefort crumble, fresh mixed greens, and more arugula. The Balsamic syrup glaze added a piquant finish to the salad.
My server surprised me next with an Intermezzo of a Pecan & Black Cherry Sorbet. This flavor explosion, in my opinion, should be added to the dessert menu in a larger portion size. The nuttiness of the pecan mixed with the full-bodied cherry flavor was fantastic. Freezing this concoction was a stroke of genius.
My entree arrived soon thereafter, served with a glass Sebastiani 1999, a full-bodied, well-balanced Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, California having strong cherry and oak flavors. The presentation was tremendous! Built into a small peak was the chef's version of Veal Marsala. But this was not like a veal marsala I have ever had before. The chef used grilled veal tenderloin, cooked medium, arranged into the peak over a medley of Pennsylvania mushrooms--shitake, porcini, and portobello--in a rich marsala wine sauce. The veal was perfect! Not overcooked as is so common in restaurants, the meat retained its juices and was moist and flavorful Piped around the veal were chive mashed potatoes. This was a nice addition in their simplicity; not an overpowering flavor, and the potatoes went well with the marsala wine sauce used with the veal and mushrooms. The plate was finished with fresh steamed spring asparagus. This was a fantastic addition. The crisp, vibrant color and flavor of the asparagus provided just the right juxtaposition of crunch to the dish's otherwise soft textures. Compliments to my server for having chosen just the right wine to accompany this course. Bravo! I could not imagine how the chef could possibly cap off such an extraordinary meal.
Chef Robert has outdone himself this time. The fourth and final course was a Cashew Crusted Pomegranate Cheesecake with Grilled Pineapple Salsa. Now
this is no ordinary cheesecake, ladies and gentlemen. The cheesecake is served in the form of three balls, encrusted in cashews. The cashew crust was sweet and nutty, as one would imagine. Inside, however, was a soft, sweet, pomegranate flavored cheesecake center. This is much softer than other cheesecakes I have tasted. It absolutely melts on the tongue. The mix of the crunchy outside with the soft inside makes this a wonderful dessert. (You can compare this to the Key Lime Cheesecake also found on the Pastry Menu.) The grilled pineapple salsa mixed well with the other elements of this dessert, providing a firm counterpoint to the cheesecake's softness, and another layer of sweetness to go with the cashew crush and the cheesecake. It was a challenge to mix all three elements at once, balancing them on my fork requiring some effort. This dessert was a special for the week, apparently. I can only hope that Chef Robert chooses to make it a permanent addition to his Pastry Menu.
Here is where I get to grade my dining experience. I grade on 5 factors: Atmosphere, Service, Presentation, Taste, and Value. These areas are scored on a 0 to 10 scale with 0 being the lowest and 10 being the highest.
Atmosphere: 10 Everything was magnificent: The period decor (c. 1925), the unobtrusive music, the room temperature, the leather seats, the wood tables. Everything was spotless, right down to the stemware and silverware on the tables. (The servers could be observed polishing both when not serving patrons.)
Service: 10 The service was beyond compare. Everyone from the maitre'd, to the general manager, to the server made sure that I had everything I needed and then some. My server anticipated my every need. He was an expert at the finer points of his career, having mastered the Room's wine list such that he could discuss it knowledgeably and choose a wine for my pleasure. I encountered people who were professionals at their crafts, not people doing their jobs. The Yorktowne Hotel is to be commended in its obvious painstaking hiring practices.
Presentation: 10 Again, Chef Mark and his staff truly are amazing masters in the kitchen. The dishes were beautiful to look at, sometimes surprisingly so in their creativity. The configuration of the Veal Marsala; the creation of a bowl using the arugula; shaping cheesecake into balls; even the use of the curled filo crisp; all of these created sculpted images that made the dishes appealing to the eye, enhancing their appeal to the palate.
Taste: 10 There is no way to properly quantify the level of delicious that this meal has risen to. Every bite, every morsel, every garnish was magnificent. The way that the flavors played with the textures, and with each other both within each dish and from one dish to the next was magical. This meal was a wonderland of flavors. There was not a single thing that was not an experience of culinary ecstasy.
Value: 10 This meal was a value beyond compare. I was treated like a king, fed like a king, with foods meant for a king. Even with a glass of very very good Pinot Noir, I did not spend an exorbitant amount on my dinner. I could not dine here every night, but for very special occasions, this would be my very first choice, as it should be for you.
I just realized that The Commonwealth Room has received a perfect 10. Congratulations! I do not believe that has ever occurred before. This is a very special place indeed. But do not take my word for it. Check out the menu online at www.Yorktowne.com (it takes a wee bit of navigating) and make reservations of your own. You will not be disappointed. I promise.
The Commonwealth Room has a semi-formal dress code, so a minimum of business casual is appropriate. Because of the nature of the room, reservations are suggested, but are not required. The Room will accomodate 72 people and is available for private parties. Finally, The Commonwealth Room operates Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30pm to 9:30pm.
30 March 2007