Culinary Quest

A Search for the Perfect Dining Experience

Fitzwater Café

Tucked into the Bella Vista neighborhood of Philadelphia, The Fitzwater Café, located at 728 S. 7th Street, offers fine food, great atmosphere, and great service to a varied clientele.  The Fitzwater Café originally served as a bakery, preparing pastries for the Fitzwater Saloon located across the street.  In 2000, owner Richard Santore saw the potential for another use for the building’s space, and the Café was established.  Not to worry; a wide assortment of desserts are still prepared in the kitchen for both the Café and the Saloon.

 

Seating 60, Fitzwater Café serves an Italian inspired menu for breakfast, a casual, light Italian lunch, and a more serious, yet still casual, dinner that features Italian cuisine.  Catering is available, too.  Due to the relatively small size of the restaurant, small parties are requested to make their reservations at the Saloon.  The restaurant is BYOB only, and it is smoke-free.    

 

The Fitzwater Café has not gone unnoticed by the public or the media.  It was named “Best Brunch” and “Best Gravy (Tomato Sauce)” by Philadelphia Magazine.  Pastry Chef Lawrence Irvin has received multiple mentions in numerous Philadelphia publications for his dessert preparation prowess, as well.

 

Gloria Santilli, a South Philadelphia native with 25 years restaurant experience, manages The Fitzwater Café.  Gloria got her start in the kitchen at home as a child, coming from an Italian family.  Her mom cooked, her dad was always in the kitchen, and her sister caters.  So she was always around cooking.  She has honed her skills at such establishments as The Chef’s Market, The Racquet Club, and Tiffany’s Catering.  These experiences and the training received at home in a traditional Italian (Abbruzese) family setting have allowed her to design a delicious menu of recipes for The Fitzwater Café’s patrons to enjoy.  Gloria is joined in the kitchen by Carmella Pizzi, a cook trained at home by her Sicilian family.  This combination of Italian cuisines exposes diners to a variety of traditional family dishes that you will not find in many other restaurants. 

 

I ask Gloria to tell me about her approach to the menu.  “It’s Italian every day.  There’s fish, meat, sandwiches, salads, and breakfast all day.  I aim for a little bit of everything.  I try to do light Italian lunch and, on the weekend, a special Brunch,” she tells me.

 

Would she say that The Fitzwater Café is more of a neighborhood restaurant, or a tourist draw?  “We’re very laid back, low-key, and friendly.  Ninety percent of our customers are repeat customers.  We know ninety percent of the customers.  Weekends are a crapshoot.  Then, it’s organized chaos,” she shrugs her shoulders.

 

I ask about the Wednesday dinner special.  “Wednesday is very informal.  Chef Oscar Reyes, the chef at the Saloon, does the cooking.  The meal is $30 for four courses.  It’s BYOB.  We suggest reservations in the Fall, after Labor Day.  You have your choice of menu items for each of the courses, including the fourth, dessert course.  It’s really very nice.”

 

“We are a nice, fun atmosphere.  We enjoy what we’re doing…I think you should come eat with us,” Gloria invites.

 

The Experience

After spending a fabulous night at The Bella Vista B&B, my girlfriend and I walk a few blocks to Fitzwater Café for Sunday Brunch.  We arrive late in the seating, so the crowd has diminished.  We are seated right away at a table by the window.  The host hands us three menus from which to make our selections:  breakfast, lunch, and brunch.  Deciding that it is too late for breakfast and a bit early for lunch, my girlfriend and I choose the brunch menu.

 

Our server arrives with water and asks if we would like some Italian coffee.  We readily accept the offer of caffeine.

 

The brunch menu is no ordinary listing of foods.  I sense an Italian tilt to the cuisine being served here at Fitzwater Café.  The use of cheeses, meats, and vegetables all speak of an Italian hand in the kitchen.  There are Nutella pancakes and French toast; great abundance of provolone; even broccoli rabe.  This excites my palate.

 

The dish that catches my eye is the sausage, roasted red pepper, broccoli rabe, and provolone omelet.  This is served with my choice of toast, sautéed potatoes, and a fruit/vegetable garnish.  The ingredients sound like a delicious combination.

 

Our server returns and takes our order.

 

I try the Italian coffee.  It is dark, full of flavor, and robust.  It lacks any unpleasant acidity or bite.  The coffee is very smooth.  The beans used are obviously of a high quality and have been roasted to the optimum level without having been burnt.  This is what coffee should taste like, not the overpriced garbage that has become so popular in chain stores found on every corner and in every shopping center.

 

As we wait for our order, I notice how comfortable it is sitting in Fitzwater Café.  The temperature is perfect.  The chair is not too hard, nor so soft that I am sliding down in it.  The color scheme is inviting and warm.  Fitzwater Café makes use of large windows to allow natural lighting and a view.  Mirrors and windows to the kitchen are employed behind the diner-like counter to provide a feeling of added space.  They even have a large dessert case, located next to the counter, showcasing their pastry chef’s creations.  The overall effect is very casual, welcoming, and friendly.

 

The order arrives, and our server says that she will be right back with more coffee.  She returns with this almost before she has left the table.  She refills our water, too.  She asks if there is anything else that we need before leaving us.

 

The aroma of the omelet is fantastic!  The egg, sausage, provolone, and broccoli rabe can all be discerned distinctly.  The more delicate roasted red pepper comes through as a mere nuance. 

 

I take a bite.  Oh, the flavors dance in my mouth!  The sausage is Italian sausage as it can only be found in South Philadelphia.  The flavors are powerful, meaty, spicy, and fresh.  The provolone has melted perfectly.  It is full of flavor that wraps itself around the other ingredients perfectly.  The broccoli rabe’s slight bitter taste is a welcome addition to this dish.  Rather than being a contrast, it works in complementary fashion, toning down the predominant egg flavor and taming the spice of the sausage.  And the sweetness of the roasted red pepper cannot be forgotten.  Although this is the most delicate of the flavors involved, it comes through marvelously.  The peppers add a taste that enhances those of the sausage and provolone, while helping to tone down the bitter greens.  What a fantastic recipe!

 

I had chosen whole wheat toast.  This is served buttered with choice of jellies.  I decide to eat mine with just the butter.  The bread has been lightly toasted with no signs of burning.  There is what appears to be a pad of butter on each slice of toast.  The slices are cut diagonally.  The toast is very good.  It tastes like the bread is freshly baked, which would not surprise me given that Fitzwater Café still functions as a bakery. 

 

The sautéed potatoes are magnificent!  They are not greasy in the least.  They are cooked perfectly—soft on the inside and brown on the outside.  This is a very simple preparation, being little more than a properly sautéed potato, but how many people are able to do just that? 

 

The fruit/vegetable garnish is fresh and delicious.  I realize that it is a garnish, but it looks too good to waste.  There is a strawberry, a slice of honeydew melon, a thin, lengthwise slice of cucumber, and a slice of tomato.  Each is sweet and fresh. 

 

 

Here is where I get to grade my dining experience.  I grade on 5 factors:  Atmosphere, Service, Presentation, Taste, and Value.  These areas are scored on a 0 to 10 scale with 0 being the lowest and 10 being the highest.

Atmosphere:  10  Fitzwater Café has obviously gone to great lengths to create a welcoming atmosphere for its diners.  It presents a comfortable place to eat in cozy surroundings.  The decor makes use of Tuscan colors, blending in with the Italian motif that they wish to present.  And with a non-smoking environment, this becomes an ideal dining experience.

Service:   10   We were fortunate enough to have Gloria Santilli, the restaurant's manager, as our server.  She was magnificent.  No glass was left empty for more than a few moments.  Our coffee never went cold.  She made polite conversation with us, and answered all of our questions knowledgeably.  I watched all of the staff, not being aware that Gloria was manager, and can honestly say that they were all top-notch.  They flew around the restaurant seeing to every customer's needs.  If something needed to be done, someone took care of it, regardless of whose responsibility it may have been.  As a team, the Fitzwater Café service staff works extremely well together.

Presentation:   10  My breakfast looked at least as good as it tasted, and it tasted terrific.  The omelet was enormous and colorful.  The toast was not burnt, or over-buttered.  The potatoes were a work of art, and the garnish was a gorgeous, and delicious, addition to the plate.  Even the coffee's deep, dark brown was a thing of beauty.  The aromas, the textures added to this presentation to create a magical meal.

Taste:   10   If you have made it this far in my review, you are aware how much I enjoyed this meal.  Everything tasted beyond delicious.  The flavor combinations were well thought out and conceived, and the dishes were properly prepared.  Even the garnish was created from fresh ingredients.  I have to ask Gloria where I can purchase their coffee!  That was heaven in a cup!

Value:  9.5  You can get an omelet somewhere else, but  you cannot get an omelet made with the same ingredients somewhere else.  Fitzwater Café even offers a crab and asparagus omelet!  But you are going to pay for the pleasure.  The experience is well worth it, though.  So when you are in Philadelphia, you MUST go to Fitzwater Café.  You will be doing yourself (and your taste buds) a real disservice if you don't.

Business Hours:

 

Open 7 Days a Week

for Breakfast and Lunch

7:00 AM to 2:30 PM

 

Tuesday thru Saturday

5:00 PM to 9:30/10:00 PM

 

No dinner served Sunday or Monday

 

Wednesday informal 4-course dinner, prepared by Chef Oscar Reyes.  $30/person.  BYOB.  Reservations Strongly Suggested.

 

Fitzwater Café  |  728 S. 7th Street  |  Corner of 7th

 

and Fitzwater Streets  |  Philadelphia, PA  19147  |  PH  215.629.0428

 

 

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