ANIMAL CLIPPER BLADE & CLIPPER HINTS


FOR GREAT SHARPENING DEALS
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FOR GREAT BLADE PRICES http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m54/nicestman77/BladePrices2008.jpg |
Placing white blackboard chalk in your clipper tack box will absorb moisture, and help prevent rust to your blades.
If the hinge can be opened with your fingers, it should be considered too weak, and be replaced.
If you lose a nameplate screw, you can replace it with a screw from the bottom of your clipper blade.
If a nameplate screw hole is stripped out, replace it with a hinge screw.
If the thrust plate is worn slightly on one side, turn it over. The reverse side will work well as a new one.
If the top of the gear is too low on the shaft, just add another fibre washer to it instead of replacing the gear. The gear should be almost flush with the top of the gear shaft in the gearbox.
If a switch cap screw hole is stripped out (won’t tighten), try removing the lock washer. This will make the screw effectively longer and may be enough to work but don’t over tighten.
Brushes are made of the same material from one end to the other. Thus
they can work just as well as half size as they do when new.
When brushes are new, they all have to wear down to the curvature of the armature. It may take 2-3 hours of use to do this. During this process, carbon dust may build up on the brush face. This may cause the clipper to run rough or even stop. If this happens, just clean the brush, remember to disconnect the clipper from the power before you remove the brush cap screw.
When brushes wear down, their springs don’t exert as much pressure as new brushes do. By stretching the springs slightly, they will work as well as new brushes.
The brushes on the Golden A5 1/ 2 speeds clippers are designed to shut off the clipper when they are considered “worn out”.
If a clipper blade wears out, or if your clipper is beyond repairs, save all the good parts for future use .
If you are out of clipper oil, most light machine oils can be used just as effectively.
If you are out of clipper grease, use a lithium or Teflon based “non-melting” grease instead.
Make sure it is a “non-melting” type of grease or it will turn to liquid when the clipper warms up and may damage the clipper.
Blade coolant lubricant type sprays are NOT effective for cleaning new or just sharpened blades. A blade wash should be used instead. These sprays are only good for cooling, and slight lubrication while the blade is being used.
If you run out of coolant, try using 90% kero and 10% motor oil in a glass bottle lid only dip the front tines.
If you are out of blade wash, you can substitute rubbing alcohol, kerosene, or a mixture of the two. NOTE: if you use only alcohol be sure to oil the blades afterwards to prevent rust.
A good cleaning after sharpening will extend blade life, it removes the dust that has come from the fur.
If you are having rust problems with your scissors or clipper blades , try soaking them in kerosene for several days.
Blades will not cut dirt, so remember to wash and totally dry your animal before you start your clipping.
Approach your clipping the fur slowly or your blade may jam, by letting the fur between the top cutter and the bottom plate, to fix the problem run the clipper blade/machine, and squeeze the two plates together watching you don't cut yourself with the clipper blade. maybe the tension on the tension bar is to soft, and may need adjusting.

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