Cedar Break Rabbits
Flemish Giants
History of Flemish Giants
A History Of The Flemish Giant Breed
No one knows the exact origins of the Flemish Giant Breed. Some people believe that the during the 16th and 17th century, Dutch Traders may have brought back giant Patagonia Rabbits from the Argentine Republic to Europe. The large rabbits of Flanders were well known at the time and may have been cross bred with the Patagonian. The name Flemish comes from Flanders. But because the Flemish exhibits the same body type and and appearance as the Patagonian, it seems obvious that our favorite Giant is decended from the wild Argentine rabbit.
There is no real record of the Flemish Giant Rabbit until 1860. Travelers from Flanders spoke of the giant rabbits raised in that country. English rabbit breeders, raising the typical 7-8 lb. rabbit, were having trouble meeting the demand for rabbit meat in their country. So some of these "Giants" were imported to England and it was only a matter of time before they began showing up at local rabbit shows. The original Flemish Giant was typically impressive in size, about 14 lbs., and of a dirty iron grey color with sandy or white bars on the legs and long ears with bent tips. Now, through the efforts of Flemish Giant Breeders Associations around the world, The Flemish have evolved into 7 varieties (colors) and sizes of 14-20 lbs.
Cage Size
Cage Size:
72" by 42" by 24" is a good size for a flemish doe with kits. 36" x 24" x 24" is a good standard size cage for a doe without kits or a buck. It is good for flemish to have a solid floor as they get sore hocks easy but I find that solid floors promote germ growth. A wire floor with boards to stand on and plenty of straw work great.
Flemish Giants can tolerate the cooler weather but don't do well with overly hot weather, a soda bottle filled with water and then frozen, put in with them to snuggle against and cool down is a good idea when the weather is hot.
Show Standards
Show Standard:
Varities: Black, Blue, Fawn, Light Gray, Sandy, Steel Gray, White
Showroom Classes & Weights:
Senior Bucks - 8 months of age & over, weight 13 lbs or over
Senior Does - 8 months of age & over, weight 14 lbs or over
Intermediate Bucks & Does - 6 to 8 months of age
Junior Bucks & Does - under 6 months of age, minimum weight 6.5 lbs
No animal may be shown in a higher or lower age classification than its true age.
Body: The body of a Flemish Giant should be as long and powerful as possible, with broad forequarters, hindquarters and chest. The body should gracefully arch from directly behind the shoulder blades, reaching its highest point just above the hips, and should continue to gracefully sweep, rounded and full, to the base of the tail. Senior Flemish Giants should be at least 20 inches in length.
Head: The head should be large, broad and in proportion to the body. Bucks shall be more broad & massive than does.
Ears: The ears should be in proportion to the head and body size, and should stand erect with a heavy ear base. Minimum ear length for seniors is 5 inches.
Breeding Flemish Giants
ALWAYS put the doe in the bucks cage! Does are very protective about their cage and may harm the buck if he enters her territory.
Breeding age for Flemish is 8 months or 14 pounds. Any sooner and the doe could have complications.
Breeding gestation period is between 28 - 31 days.
The nest box should be placed in with the doe at 28 days unless she is frantically looking to make her nest. Any earlier and she could use it as a litter box.
Does usually have their kits in the early morning hours, do not disturb them while they are giving birth.
It is recommended to take each baby out of the nest every day to be sure none have died. The Mother knows your scent and shouldn't object. Some does are very protective and may lunge at you when you investigate the nest. It is a good idea to pet Mom first, then remove the box to inspect the kits. Give mom a treat such as an apple to keep her occupied. Touching and handling the newborn kits from day one will make them more gentle and easier to handle.
Day One of a new kits life. They are born hairless and blind.
Day 7 to 10 they start growing hair and opening their eyes.
Day 10 to 21 the kits will start to wander out of the nest box and nibble on food.
Six weeks to eight weeks you can sex the kits and maybe start moving them to a new cage, but they can be left in with mom until she tells you they have to go. (usually around 3 to 4 months). It is sometimes best if you move mom instead of the kids, mom adjusts better to new surroundings. Bring one or two of the kits with mom so she can dry up slowly. ( usually the smaller ones that need a little more of mom's attention should be the ones to go with to a new cage, but I also was told to leave the bigger ones with mom so they grow better, either way it is up to you to decide)
Fur Mites
Rabbits can be infested with ear mites, fur mites, or burrowing mites (mange). Visual examination is not always sufficient to confirm the presence of mites. One can use the tape method, skin scraping (shallow if fur mites are suspected, deep if burrowing mites are suspected), or the vacuum aspiration method on a filter paper. Samples from scrapings should be spread on a microsope glass, dissolved in KOH, and examined under a microscope.
In my opinion in the treatment of fur mites, remember this is my opinion, I have found that using Neo-Dust From DaMars works. Just spray a little between the shoulder blades, try not getting any in the bunny's eyes, Clean his cage with cleaning solution and rinse well. I use Pine Sol floor cleaning solution mixed with water, then use the pressure washer to rinse. Repeat this once a week. My bun had fur mites where he was loosing his fur around his shoulders and it looked like a dandruff kind of thing going on. After one week he is looking much better. Remember this is only the opinion of this Breeder and may not work for your buns.
I have done plenty of research and have not found one place where I can actually find the product that others have said to use. I read that using a pyrothen (i believe that is the spelling) based agent that it isn't good for rabbits, that it can kill them. Well everywhere I have looked for Flea Powder that is the only ingredient listed. They say you can use Flea Powder Safe for Kittens, But where do you find that???? Maybe the stores around here aren't equipped to help out kittens! Ivermectin shots can also work, if you know how to give injections.
You can always take your bun to the vet (one that knows how to care for an exotic pet) (which around here is very hard to find without having to travel a great distance), and have the bun examined and then do the course of treatment suggested! Whichever method you prefer, remember I am only giving my opinion on what has worked for me and it may not work for you.
