TUCANA

This is Q (Kew) seen here as a 6 weeks ol baby. He is a male tri coloured Abyssinian Guinea Pig. He is quite nervous and has never realy taken to being handled. He squeeks loudly when caught up and preferes the company of his four legged companions to the two legged kind. He is stroked and petted often but due to his shy nature we dont want to upset him to much so avoid catching him up daily and subjecting him to unwanted attention unless he decideds otherwise.

 This is C (Cee) pictured here when she was just 4 weeks old. She is a Sable tri coloured Coronet Guinea Pig. Taking her photograph from the other side with her colouring she looks like a completely different Guinea Pig!. Both the photos of Q and C were taken at the same time and although she is two weeks younger than Q she was bigger in size. She has a different temperment to Q completely. She loves to be stroked and cuddled and will sit contentidly on your knee, lapping up the attention. She squeeks wildly if she thinks food is in the offering. She loves to cuddle up to her mate Q and her two babies Gingernut and Doughnut.

 Pictured below is gingernut. This photo was taken when she was just a couple of days old.She is lively and noisy just like her mum. She loves her food most out of all four of them and is always the first with her head in the food dish if anything new is put in there. She is nosey and inquisitive and I am sure on day it will get her into trouble. Since placing this information we sadly lost Gingernut in December 2008.

Here on the right is Doughnut, Gingernuts brother again pictured when he was just two days old. He is the baby of the collony and seems very backward at coming forward! He takes after his dad and dosent take kindly to too much handling prefering the company of his parents and litter mate Gingernut. He is always the last in everything and always takes up the rear, he is a real slowcoach.

In this picture on the left the two, two day old babies Doughnut and Gingernut can be seen cuddling up together. Doughnut was rehoused when he was weaned as the plan is to build up a small colony of females. Doughnut was been bullied by his father dispite being moved to a large outdoor enclosure which he shared with his father away from the females.

Q and C have since been relocated within the bird aviary indoor enclosure where they are able to enjoy the spacious 3ft X 8ft enclosure. Come the summer they will also have access to the planted outdoor enclosure.

SHERRY

Rose is a smooth haired Tortoiseshell female (awaiting photo)

Cee had four babies on the 20th April. Cute as babies always are! Two boys (Boars) and two girls(sows).The two males have been rehomed but the two females are to stay with us.Names are stll to be chosen.

I have now aquired a new male named Fly. He is a coronet (awaiting photo)

Guinea pigs can make ideal pets for children and adults. They rearly bite but can appear nervous, and can sometimes wriggle and scratch, if not used to been handled or if handled incorrectly. They are  inquisitive, friendly and very vocal and talkative. They have different grunts squeaks and rattles for all sorts of communication. They will whistle and squeek when you approach or they hear the russle of a bag! Both males and females make good pets and live around 4 to eight years.

Guinea Pigs are neither pigs, nor did they come from Guinea. The scientific name for the guinea pig is Cavia porcellus , and porcellus means little pig in Latin. You may also hear of them being referred to as Cavies.Guinea pigs soon get used to a routine, and will reward you with welcoming squeaks as soon as they hear you approaching or the rustle of a bag! It is very important to handle and check on your guinea pigs at least twice a day, in the morning and evening. However guinea pigs love company and the more time you can spend with your pet the happier it will be.

Guinea pigs are social creatures, and very rarely fight or fall out with each other. However, if there is not enough food or conditions are cramped one dominant female may start to bully the others. It is important to provide several feeding bowls, water bottles, hay nets/racks as well as plenty of space and various boxes and tubes to hide in.

If there is a lack of food, particularly a lack of hay, then guinea pigs may start chewing the coats of the others or themselves. This is known as barbering! Barbering can also occur if the guinea pigs are bored. So provide them with plenty of hay and let them take lots of exercise and they are unlikely to start chewing each other. I have also known barbering occur even though plenty of the above are provided so maybe it could also be an inherited trait!

Guinea pigs are very friendly creatures, with an awful lot to say for themselves. Firstly there is the very loud welcoming weep weep. Try rustling a bag as you great them first thing in a morning!! They will make this noise to greet you, and to welcome the food you are bringing them. I find this is also used when they are separated or caught up, especially if babies are separated from their mum!

Then there is the deep throaty rumble or purr. This is made when they meet a new guinea pig for the first time, especially when love is in the air in a boy meets girl situation! If there is any falling out or bickering between guinea pigs then this throaty rumble may be accompanied by some teeth chattering.

Then there is the background of chatter as they communicate with each other in their pen going around their daily business this is made up of various squeaks and chirps, no doubt talking about their food!

Hay and things to chew are an essential part of your pets welfare routine and things to nibble and gnaw should always be available as they help to prevent overgrown teeth, and boredom. Guinea pigs need vitamin c in their diet . Vitamins can be added to your pets  food or water.  As with any animal a healthy diet is essential to your pets health and well being. Hay as stated previously is  an essential part of the digestive process, as well as helping to prevent dental problems.

Regular handling and grooming can help strengthen the relationship between you and your pets, as well as highlight any health problems.. If you have a long haired Guinea Pig you will have to groom weekly to prevent hair tangles and mats.

As with many other types of animal Guinea Pigs can suffer from fleas or mites and skin problems such as mange. You should keep an eye out for constant scratching and  irritation, and take action if it is needed. Pets which are kept out doors could be vunerable to flystrike during the summer months so it is important to ensure that their hutches and cages are kept clean and dry.

HOUSING

Guinea pigs can be kept outdoors all year round but they should be given extra shelter during winter months. A shed or a disused garage is ideal. Never put your guinea pigs in a used garage as the exhaust fumes from your car can be very dangerous. If you are planning to keep your guinea pigs outdoors, ensure that the hutch is draught free and fully weatherproof. The hutch should  be raised off the ground to keep the floor dry and to give added protection  from cats and foxes. The base of the hutch should be covered with wood shavings to form an absorbent layer. A separate “bedroom” compartment should be provided and filled with straw.  Alternatively, you can keep your guinea pigs indoors in a cage specifically designed for either guinea pigs or rabbits. If you do decide to keep them indoors, place their hutch away from radiators or draughts. It’s important to allow your guinea pigs some time to run around every day – it’ll keep them happy and in good shape too. Use a run in your garden with items such as flat rocks, large terracotta plant pots, logs and toys for them to play amongst. The run can go straight onto the grass but remember to move it regularly to prevent overgrazing. Also remember not to use it in cold wet weather.

Guinea pigs are clean animals, but as with any animal their hutch/cage will only be as clean as you keep it!!. Their dropping are quite wet, and I find that they tend to be messier than rabbits.  Soiled bedding should be removed daily and replaced with fresh. Once a week the entire living compartments should be cleaned out using a disinfectant which is safe for use with animals .

Housekeeping of the hutch and living quarters is very important. Bedding should be changed regularly. Unlike rabbits, guinea pigs cannot be trained to use a litter tray, they will toilet anywhere. Mine tend to prefer to use the indoor secluded areas intended for bedding areas! May be it has something to do with feeling they should hide away and therefore that’s where they spend most of their time.

HANDLING

Your new Guinea Pig/s could be nervous when you take them home so you shouldn’t handle them too much initially. During the first few days stroke and  talk to them. When they have settled in after a few days and have got used to new sounds and have become to feel  comfortable and confident, you should start  to pick them up.  Hold your pet close to you so that it feels safe and to prevent it from  falling should it decide to wriggle free!. Once they get to know you they’ll love being handled.

Guinea pigs love human contact, as well as with their own kind. If they are used to it from an early age they will love to be picked up and cuddled. They must be picked up and carried very carefully so that they do not struggle, fall and suffer injuries as a result. Despite having round little bodies, and stumpy legs they do not bounce well if they are dropped!!!!

If your new guinea pig/s appear a bit frightened, running away when you try to catch them, then spend some time just stroking them and sitting amongst them when you feed them, so that they become used to you first. Guinea pigs are very friendly and will rarely bite when you try to pick them up.

It is usually best to support them with one hand under their chest, and one under their bottom, holding them near your chest as you move around. Very young ones can be scooped up in two hands.

Guinea pigs will sit on your lap for ages whilst been stroked, and make an ideal child’s pet.

HEALTH

A healthy diet and hygienic conditions will help to keep your guinea pigs in good health but there are a number of potential problems that you should be aware of. As with all rodents, guinea pigs’ teeth grow constantly so it’s important to provide them with safe wooden objects, hard vegetables, mineral stones or treats to gnaw on. Vitamin C is essential and should be provided in your pets’ food. A vitamin C deficiency weakens the immune system making your guinea pigs more susceptible to illness.  Healthy guinea pigs have a clean, shiny coat, are  alert with bright eyes and dry nostrils. There should be no sign of  bald patches or areas on the coat where the hair is thining.. Droppings in your pets’ hutch should be small, firm pellets. If your pet shows signs of being unwell contact your vet immediately.

Thankfully, guinea pigs are very hardy creatures, and if kept clean and fed well they rarely become sick. There are, however, some daily checks you should make, to ensure that your guinea pig stays well, it also helps you to notice any change very quickly, and visit your vet at the first sign of illness.

EYES
The eyes should be clear and bright, with no sign of cloudiness or any form of abnormal discharge. Guinea pigs do normally secrete a milky discharge from their eyes, which precedes grooming, as they use it on their paws to groom themselves, if you see this you do not need to worry about it. An eye that suddenly goes cloudy could mean that the guinea pig has an ulcer or other eye condition. Any eye problems require veterinary attention and you should not mess around trying to treat eye problems yourself as to delay seeking medical attention could result in the loss of sight for your guinea pig.

NOSE
The nose should be clean, with no wet discharge. Any discharge or sneezing could mean that your guinea pig has a cold.

FEET/NAILS Guinea pigs should ideally be kept on a soft surface, as they have no hair on the bottom of their feet unlike rabbits, and a hard surface may cause them to develop foot sores. Mine are kept on a concrete base but this is covered with wood shavings and hay. Check toenails daily and trim when required. If you don’t feel confident doing it yourself then a trip to the vet or breeder will be necessary.

Guinea pigs have four toes on their front feet, and three on their back feet, meaning that there are 14 toenails to manicure. Each nail has a blood vessel

(quick)  running down its centre. If your guinea pig has white nails this will be easy to see, and you can trim just the tip of the nail, avoiding the quick. The quick is harder to see if the nail is dark. If you are unfortunate enough to cut the quick then hold some cotton wool or lint on the end and the pressure will stop the bleeding. Alternatively you can buy some silver nitrate pencils from the chemist to keep in your fist aid box.

TEETH

Like rabbits, guinea pigs have teeth that grow all the time,  usually they are worn down by all the  chewing they do which is why it is very important to feed and provide plenty of hay and chewable things. The teeth are set   2 at the top and 2 bottom, you may be surprised at how long they are,….up to 1-1.5cm but they should meet evenly, which will help to wear them down evenly. Sometimes a tooth may break, or grow abnormally as if this is the case the other teeth may need to be trimmed to make them all even again.

As a guinea pig gets older the back teeth may become overgrown, although this is not very common. A common sign of tooth problems could be rapid weight loss and the inability to eat which is why you need to check on your guinea pig daily.

GROOMING

The fur should be dense and clean. Any excessive scratching, bald patches, hair loss or areas where the skin is red, sore or flaky may suggest that your guinea pig has mites. I like to treat all my guineas with “spot on” treatment at least once a year just as a preventative measure. Mites burrow under the skin and can cause mange. Daily handling again assists the owner in identifying problems early so that if any action needs to be taken it can be done sooner Rather than later.

As with all breeds of different animals some breeds of guinea pigs will need more grooming than others. However grooming is a way to handle and bond with your pet and look out for developing skin complaints.So whatever type of coat your guinea pig has grooming is advisable.

Some very long haired breeds will need daily grooming with a comb, as well as a brush. The Abyssinians are better groomed with an old tooth brush as their hair grows in many different directions.

It shouldn't really be necessary to bath your guinea pig, but in the event that you need to warm water and a little mild baby shampoo should be all that is required all guinea pigs have a grease gland where their tail should be, and in the older ones, especially males, their .

COMPANIONS

In their natural habitat guinea pigs live in colonies. They are socible animals and therefore they are happiest when they have another guinea pig for company. They are prolific breeders so it’s best to choose companions of the same sex. Male guinea pigs are often said to be friendlier than females. I am sure that each Guinea Pig keeper will have their own story to tell on this one! Two or more young guinea pigs that have been purchased around the same time and are of a similar age will usually live happily together.

FEEDING

As with rabbit food there are two types of guinea pig food, muesli and nuggets. Muesli is very nutritional, however, if your guinea pigs pick out the bits of muesli they prefer, they will miss out on essential nutrients. This is called ‘selective feeding’. In contrast, nuggets will prevent this problem. Whatever the supplier of your Guinea Pig is feeding  you should continue to feed when you take your new pet/s home. This will help to prevent stomach upsets caused by changing their food. If you do wish to change your guinea pigs’ diet, then introduce any new food slowly over a period of about 10 days, phasing out the old food completely. This gradual introduction will allow their digestive systems to become accustomed to the new diet. Guinea Pigs can not produce their own vitamin C and you will find that Guinea Pig "food" is enriched with vitamin C  ensure your pets stay healthy. For this reason do not be tempted to feed rabbit food, which will not have added vitamin C. If you would prefer it then Vitamin C supplements are also available and can simply be added to your pets water.

Guinea pigs need extra fibre in their diet to aid digestion. Hay is a natural fibre and should always be available to your pets. It also helps to keep guinea pigs’ teeth in trim,  preventing them from growing too long and causing dental problems. Small quantities of fresh fruit and vegetables such as apples, broccoli, carrots ,or cabbage can be given to your guinea pigs but remember to introduce new food gradually to avoid stomach upsets. Never give them a frozen foods. Guinea pigs graze and eat little and often so make sure dry food and hay are always available. If you find that their food bowl is frequently empty, you’re probably not giving them enough food to satisfy thier needs. Fresh food should be given daily and any uneaten food removed at the end of each day. This is especially important in hot weather. Heavy ceramic feeding bowls are ideal for guinea pigs as they tend to be difficult to knock over. Claen fresh drinking water should be given daily preferably in a water bottle, which stops the water becomming contaminated.

When left alone in their cage or hutch when you are not around, your guinea pigs may get very bored. Providing toys for them to chew on and hiding treats around their cage will enhance their quality of life. small cardboard boxes, logs and "houses" holes will allow your pets to play, chew and snuggle up just at they would in the wild. Wooden or willow toys and accessories are not only fun to play with and chew but they help to keep teeth trim!

Guinea pigs are never happier then when they are eating, and boy do they eat! Feeding time always receives the loudest squeaks of all. Every morning i feed dried food with fresh veg and hay. They happily graze away all day and then on an evening they are given more fresh hay.

PRE BOUGHT DRIED FOODS
Ensure you get a one made specifically for guinea pigs, as it will have vitamin C included in it. Rabbit food is not the same!!

FRESH FOODS
Guinea pigs seem like they will eat anything! As well as grass, they can be given a variety of wild plants such as dandelions, chickweed and milk thistle. When wild plants are not available they can be given vegetables, herbs and fruit. You should introduce as many different fresh foods as you can to give them variety.

GRASS
During the summer, if your guinea pigs are allowed on the lawn, grass will provide the main ingredient of their diet. They will graze for hours. In the spring, when the first rapid growth of grass occurs, they should be limited to between 1-2 hours outside, as the grass can be very rich and cause digestive upsets. They can build up their grazing hours, so that by the summertime they can be outside all day.

HAY
Hay is the other most important daily component of their diet and for mine the most important as I do not allow mine to go on the lawn. Only the best quality hay should be fed, and it should not be dusty or mouldy. If you have somewhere to store it, it is often worthwhile as I do to buy a bale from a farm, of a quality that would be fed to horses. As well as eating it, they will use it as bedding as it is softer and not as sharp as straw.

WATER
Water is extremely important, and their water bottle should be refilled daily if the weather is cold the water may freeze, and need to be thawed and refilled more frequently. Over the winter soluble vitamin C can be added to the drinking water to make sure they are getting enough of this important vitamin.

TREATS
There are lots of different treats available from pet shops, many based on carbohydrates, or sweets like yogurt drops. These are all expensive gimmicks, and your guinea pig will be far happier (and healthier) with an extra carrot! The same for rabbits!!!!

The most important fact to know about guinea pigs is that, like humans, they must have a daily intake of Vitamin C. This can be provided in a variety of ways but the method I prefer is to use a balanced diet with plenty of fruit and vegetables. Carrots and Broccoli are great sources of vitamin C. Most good guinea pig dry mixes contain vitamin C.

CAECOTROPHS
The soft droppings that the guinea pig produces are called Caecotrophs again as with rabbits theses are usually produced overnight, and are full of protein and vitamins. They are formed during the process of digestion, and are designed to be eaten as soon as they are passed. Don’t be alarmed if you see your rabbit or guinea pig doing this it is perfectly natural for them to do this and they need to do it to stay healthy.

 BREEDING

 If you do intend to breed, the timing for the female is very important. The earliest age you should consider breeding a sow is 4-5 months, and she should be bred from before she is 10 months old. This is because after this age the bones in her pelvis fuse, and make it more likely that she will have problems delivering her babies. If she has a litter before 10 months of age her pelvis will stretch to allow for childbirth, and she shouldn't have problems with any further litters when she is older. You should remember though that guinea pigs can breed from earlier than 4-5 months but this should be discouraged.

Guinea pigs carry their babies for a long time (68-70 days) they are born mini replicas of their parents! Born fully furred within hours of birth they are running around eating and following their mother.