MY LANDROVER CARAWAGON

I BOUGHT THIS 2.5 LDV 400 DIESEL ENGINE LAST YEAR FROM A BREAKERS SO I A WAS NOT SURE WHAT THE MILAGE WAS ON THE BELT SO IT IS BETTER TO REPLACE IT NOW WHILE I AM WAITIN TO DO OTHER STUFF AND HAVE THE LANDY OF THE ROAD, I STRIPPED DOWN THE RAD AND THE WATER PUMP HOUSING ONLY TO FIND I NEED NOT TAKE OFF THE PRIMARY PULLY WHICH IS A STROKE OF LUCK AS ITS A BITCH TO REMOVE. THE BELT COVER SITS OVER THE CRANK AND IS EASY TO REMOVE [SEE PICS] THE BELT IS JUST AS SIMPLE TO REMOVE JUST MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE DIESEL PUMP PULLY BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OFF, REMOVE THE TENSIONER 2 X13MM NUTS AND WASHERS  IF YOU DO IT RIGHT IT SHOULD BE REPLACED INSIDE TEN MINUTES DONT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE TENSIONER WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK ON, THE ONLY PROBLEM I HAD WAS ACTUALLY GETTING A BELT FOR IT AS IT WAS NOT LISTED IN ANY BOOKS AT 2 DIFFERENT MOTOR FACTORS LOCAL TO ME. IT's 26MM ACROSS AND 124 TEETH ,I CROSS REFERENCED IE CHECKED THE WHOLE BOOK AND GOT ONE OFF A TOYOTA CORROLLA/STARLET 16V BELEIVE IT OR NOT ITS EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE 2.5 LDV 400 BELT, ITS ALL FITTED AND TIGHTENED AND FITS PERFECTLY SNUG AS A BUG, I WOULD ADVISE YOU TO CHECK YOUR BELT ASAP IF YOU ARE CONCERNED AS TO THE GENUINE MILAGE ON YOUR ENGINE, I HAVE BEEN USING THE MOTOR FOR OVER SIX MONTHS WHEN I TOOK THE BELT OFF IT LOOKED PERFECT BUT ON CLOSER INSPECTION IT HAD A HOLE ON THE INSIDE WHICH HAD STARTED TO SPLIT SIDE WAYS TOWARDS THE EDGE OF THE BELT A RECIPIE FOR DISASTER ANOTHER MAJOR JOB OUT OF THE WAY ....                                                                                                                                                           TIMING BELT TO SUIT LDV 400 SHERPA/FREIGHTROVER SAME AS TOYOTA CORALLA 1.3 16V 92-- STARLET 1.3 16V 96--        GATES POWERGRIP 5358XS --39124X26HSN

WHILE I WAS AT THIS I ALSO REPLACED THE SIX TRACK ROD ENDS IT TOOK A COUPLE OF HOURS BUT IT WAS WORTH IT THE OLD ONES HAD SEEN BETTER DAYS AND WERE KNACKERED  A NEW STEERING BOX IS NEXT AND THAT WILL BE THE FRONT END SORTED WITH NEW V8 BRAKE SHOES, RECONDITIONED HALF SHAFTS, NEW BRAKE CYLINDERS / SEALS,HUB BEARINGS/SEALS,SWIVELS/ SEALS AND NEW BRAKE LINES AND WHEN FINANCES ALLOW A NICE NEW SET OF WHEELS TO GO WITH THE NEW PIRELLIS I GOT FOR HER  I HAVE ALSO REPLACED THE CLUTCH AND BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS

1 st feb 2005

 I HAVE STARTED TO PANEL AND INSULATE THE REAR LIVING SPACE YOU WILL NEED LOTS OF PATIENCE TO DO THIS, ITS BEST TO DO IT IN SECTIONS,  I HAVE USED 6MM PLY AND ORDINARY ROOF INSULATION,KEEP IT LIGHT THE LESS WEIGHT THE BETTER

 MAKE UP THE PANELS FIRST. MAKE SURE IT ALL FITS DRILL AND SCREW IT DOWN

IT MIGHT LOOK CRAP BUT YOU WILL BE COVERING IT ALL WITH LEATHERETTE OR CARPET OR WHAT EVER YOU CHOOSE SO YOU WON'T SEE ANY JOINS OR GAPS MAKE SURE YOU USE FLUSH SCREWS I USED 15 MILL  AND ONLLY DRILL INTO THE RIBS ON THE PANELS DON'T DRILL THROUGH THE MAIN PANEL, 

YOU WILL NOTICE A DROP IN NOISE AND THAT HOLLOW DRUMMING SOUND WILL BE GONE WHEN THIS IS DONE AND IT WILL BE A LOT WARMER

 WHEN ALL IS DONE TAKE OFF EACH PANEL ONE BY ONE AND STUFF IT WITH INSULATION AND PUT IT BACK ON THAT WAY YOU DONT MIX UP THE PANELS GET RUBBER GLOVES AND A MASKYOU WILL FEEL A LOT BETTER FOR IT LATER , TO BE CONTINUED .......................

RIGHT SIDE 3/4 FINISHED                           TOP PANELS IN PLACE

INSULATION IN PLACE READY FOR PANELS 

YOU WILL ALSO NEED SOME LENGHTS OF 2 x 1 TO PLACE ALONG THE BOTTOM EDGE TO KEEP THE PANELLING OUT FROM THE MAIN BODY THIS KEEPS THE PANELS MORE OR LESS SQUARE TO THE MAIN OUT SIDE PANEL AND GIVES ROOM TO STUFF THE INSULATION IN

SO FAR COST ABOUT 60 EUROS FOR INSULATION/SCREWS AND TWO 8 X 4 6mm SHEETS OF PLY AND A COUPLE OF 2x1 LENGHTS OF WOOD I USED 3.5 x 20 MM SCREWS WITH A 2  mm DRILL BIT 

YOU CAN SEE HERE WHAT THE 2x1 IS NEEDED FOR THE MAIN FRAME RAIL BETWEEN THE UPPER AND LOWER BODY STANDS PROUD ABOUT 2 INCHS  IT'S EASIER TO FIT PRESS'S AND STUFF IF YOU HAVE THE PANELS SQUARE RATHE THAN GOING IN AT AN ANGLE