The 2004 Beijing Odyssey Rants

Vol 21 – The Rogue Beijing Bar Guide

Date: 12 Nov 2004

 

Bored with the ads (masqueraded as reviews) of bars and restaurants listed in the entertainment directory of Beijing’s mainstay expat magazine (think a monthly version of the Melbourne Weekly), I’ve decided to put my cynical caustic spin on the cause to provide readers with the first impartial, independent* guide to night life in the host city of the 2008 Olympics.  Given the size of the rant below, it’s (unfortunately) a pretty accurate indication of where I squandered most of my budget and time last semester here with a whole bunch of uh, like minded people.  Thankfully or otherwise, I have recently started giving my liver extended periods of rest, re-entered the gym (again), am earning some cash, and doing deadly banal things like grocery shopping, mopping the floor, and hassling the roomie him to pay his half of the utility bills.  Unbelievable.  

 

Wudaokou Pubs – Wudaokou, an urban area about 12ks NW of the Beijing CBD where I live and study, is essentially a student town hosting at least a dozen universities in the area (including the famed Beida & Tsinghua, China’s Oxford & Cambridge).  Teeming with local kids and seemingly an endless stream spoilt foreign brats who are more interested in downing beers than examining the finer points of the Chinese grammar, pubs in this area do a brisk trade during the week when most couldn’t be arsed trekking all the way down to Saluntun on the other side of the city where the bulk of city’s watering holes are. 

 

Lush – café/bistro by day and lounge/bar by night, this cosy wood panelled joint run by a couple of New Zealanders, is the expat free for all student hub of Wudaokou.  Go there and you actually feel strange sporting black hair and dark eyes.  Start speaking in Mandarin and you’ll get stared at.  Rock up in a suit and the crowd would think you’re from another galaxy.  That said, it is famous for Thursday night cocktails and legendary madness that is open mike on Sunday nights.  A form of glorified communal karaoke event with acoustic guitars thrown in, this is where wannabe invincible guitar masters (for we all know there’s only one, at most two invincible guitar masters on this side of the universe) take turns to strut their stuff in front of a crowd, ostensibly to score a free beer from the bar, but really just to impress the ladies/wannabe groupies in the audience.  It’s the absolute oldest trick in the book, but judging from the audience’s reaction, still a foolproof one, especially if you’re one of the more creative types who write and sing their own ditties – like my fellow jailbird’s rousing rendition of the ‘Wudaokou Blues’  with another ‘Apotment’ occupant. 

 

Propaganda – first mentioned in Vol 2 of the rants and a stone’s throw away from Lush, this risquély named establishment is a fixture in the Wudaokou pub scene synonymous with lots of R&B booty shakin and gratuitous boozing.  So popular is the place on Thursday nights (ladies night, go figure) it is positively claustrophobic, and some paranoid part of me always fears being crushed in the crowd on the downstairs dance floor as soon as someone yells ‘fire’.  A huge favourite of BJ’s Afro community, this is the place to go if you want to see lots of black guys dressed up as homeboys and gals in tight spray on pants shaking their (shapely, and gravity defying) bootylicious ass. And lots of people do.  As the popular cliché goes – once you go….nevermind. Personally, I stopped going there since they raised the price of screwdrivers from 10 to 15 kuai. 

 

Bla Bla – an absolute skank of a watering hole tucked inside the school campus, it was a personal favourite for no other reason than for the fact that I loved its Location, Location, Location – right next to dorm 7 where I happened to reside (hey, it’s not often where your room is 50m of the bar), which made it super convenient spot to while away some time whenever I didn’t feel like doing any work (which was often).  At least the stagger home was short trip if things ever got messy after one of those ‘quiet drinks’ that eventually degenerate into alcohol fuelled, navel gazing, self absorbed ‘aunt abby’ sessions.  Another thing I’ve got to be grateful to Bla Bla for is that this is where plans for Cams & Fortuna’s excellent adventures started after a couple of beers. 

 

Taku – Newcomer to the scene trying to steal business away from Lush and Propaganda, my recollections of Taku were vague thanks to the bottles of spirits a friend’s boyfriend managed to score for the night.  Needless to say it was a messy night for all participants and a few skeletons came out of the closet that night….from what I remember it was like an early 90s Melbourne night club – lots of black marble, flash lighting, booths……and very bad music.  Which was all fine after we’d all downed about 10 shots of vodka in the space of half an hour… Recently it seems to be consolidating its reputation by hosting a series of frat boy events such as Traffic Light Parties…and there you are thinking that (dis)Orientation week was something that took place sometime back in the last century…..nuff said. 

 

Say Yes Bar – one of those unremarkable bars tucked inside a hotel near school, it seems to be a perpetual (and exclusive, seeing as I never seem to notice anyone around) C8 class hangout during those final weeks of last semester.  Perhaps its merit lies in the fact that it seems to be always willing to put up with a pack of rowdy kids at any given hour.  Still, this always seems to be the place where I always end up having heated arguments with my Jap classmates over the fact that ‘Great Wall Wines’ do not qualify to be called ‘Wine’.  So nasty is that stuff (vinegar anyone???) you need to put ice cubes in your glass to water it down.  But even that isn’t enough to convince them…. Hey, who thought I was even remotely capable of being a wine snob????

 

Houhai 18 – Houhai, meaning ‘back seas’, it’s actually a lake area near the centre of the city surrounded by pubs and restaurants on its shores.  More an upscale precinct consisting of classy (read: expensive) bars and lounges than messy rowdy nightclubs, we stumbled across Houhai 18, this cute hole in the wall bar facing the lake one night while searching for some live music.  Baulking at paying for Long island iced tea by the glass at western prices, my friend Jess and I managed to sweet talk the barman (oh, the poor helpless confused boy who turned into putty in the face of Jess’ s batting eyelashes and charms) into giving us lethal jugs of the potions at the bulk price deal $100kuai ($16AUD) a pop.  Needless to say, we become VIP customers soon after that, and even convinced the (live) singers to take requests.  With that sorted it was inevitable that I would take my 25th Birthday Celebrations there……resulting in many participants walking away from the night with some very, very sore heads.  Much to my devastation, that was my last time there.   After a summer away, I recently returned to find they’d renovated and spiffed up the place which completely destroyed everything that I’d loved about my old haunt. 

 

Saluntunahhh…..located at the eastern of the city, this is basically Beijing’s red light/pub district packed with restaurants, bars, and pubs.  Undoubtedly an expat central, it’s kinda like HK’s Nam Kuai Fong extending over an suburb.  Synonymous with ‘clubbing’ and teeming with beggers, it is where elements of modern China’s extreme poverty and decadence collide in a neon drenched twilight zone

 

Vics – Conjure thoughts of noisy mid nineties clubs like Melbourne’s Twister (admit it, everyone’s been there at least once in their lifetime) in a slightly (albeit marginally) more upmarket setting and you have Vics.  (In)famous for its Wednesdy night (ladies night) shennigans where owners regularly hire models to pose as part of the crowd to perpetuate the urban myth that it’s packed with astonishingly good looking women who just don’t seem to appear on Beijing’s streetscape with the same frequency. To paraphrase Carrie Bradshaw, it is a Modeliser’s heaven, though the female population (on Wednesday nights anyway) are kept reasonably happy with free flow of alcohol before midnight followed by Billie Jean remixes by some flashy ‘DJ/Artiste’ behind the stage….which is just as well cos it is not the type of place to start entertaining neurotic Briget Jone-esque thoughts…..recent celebrity guests include the holy grail of Boy Band Bands BSB, who recently dropped by for some R&R during their China tour….just so you know exactly the kind of place it is. 

 

Deep – another one of those bars where I’m sure I’ve been to but can’t remember too much of.  From my vague recollections, it had something to do with a lot of free tequila….nonetheless, certain persons on this mailing list would find Deep a very memorable place in more ways than one…

 

MIX – what the hell is the deal with these monosyllabic names for flashy overrated bars anyway?  (Vics, Mix, Deep, Heat….) Across the road from Vics, the newly opened MIX is supposedly designed to usurp Vic’s place as Beijing premier beautiful people place….a place to see and be seen.  With a 50kuai door charge (I was surprised they even let us in), expectations were high but essentially all we got was basically one big people watching spectacle with Beijing’s local upper crust/glitterati/C-grade stars/wannabes and miscellaneous ‘professionals’ all eyeing each other at the bar and forgetting to actually have anything resembling a good time.  I personally lasted about 45min there after coming to the conclusion that I have had about ten times more fun people watching at a local footy game back home.  That said, I probably just have no taste.  Zheng Ziyi (the waif like perennial Kung Fu princess of arty Martial arts films coming out of China) was recently spotted doing some boggying on the MIX dance floor while resting between films.  Now all we need is for Beckham and some PA to make rock up and its reputation will forever be cemented. 

 

Cloud Nine – finally, one bar that lives up to its name, reputation, and steep pricetag.  A decadent, opulent, post modern Opium den Shanghai styled lounge/bar on the lower floor for those who want to mellow about and down a few cocktails, and dead beat techo scene for those more inclined to substance abuse on the upper floor.   This place is truly something, and while the price list for drinks may raise a few eyebrows, you never forget the fact that you’re in Cloud Nine, even though 90% of the credits go to the interior designer. 

 

Saluntun South Street – rowdy, low-rent, cheap, and positively feral.  A classic case of getting exactly what you paid for.  Needless to say it is the scene of many a big/messy nights for Beijing’s expat/student community. 

 

Pure Girl – Ah, the original hole in the wall $5 kuai shot place first mentioned in the ‘Tight Ass Diaries’ rant has done so well it’s expanded…..without lifting the ambience up a notch.  You really can’t stoop much lower than this cheap, cheerful, and positively nasty place, though my mate ‘Marco’ is such good mates with the bartender he actually steps behind the bar to pour himself drinks, picking up two for one deals along the way.  One night, we got so ‘inspired’ we literally plastered our names and profound personal quotes on the wall (with the owner’s permission)….very, very classy indeed. 

 

Poachers – if there is anything worse than a meat market (namely, Vics, MIX and every other establishment in BJ), then it’s a meat market absolutely crawling with expat men (of all ages, but usually sporting US/UK/Canadian/Australia passports)on  fat packages looking to (sic) ‘make someone’s day’…..resulting in the occasional urge for one to unleash caustic comments like ‘I’m afraid you’ll need to find someone else in order to make somebody’s day – I already have my OWN degree, source of income, AND passport’.  Ouch.  Fortunately for them, that’s not a hard feat to achieve (let’s just say that drinks are not the only thing cheap there) though the consolation for the likes of me is that at least people watching here’s more interesting….or horrifyingly fascinating at the very least.  Which is good for the owners as this place does an absolutely roaring trade on any given night.   

 

Happy House –cheesy 80’s disco and Britney Spears tunes, big student crowd, matched by student priced drinks makes this a very happy house indeed.  If any ‘O-week type’ rumours start circulating about what happened between certain people on the weekend, this is the place where it most probably started.    

 

Chaoyang – Upmarket expat precinct on the far east side of the city – worth mentioning as it is host to one of BJ’s most (in)famous establishments, the World of Suzie Wong (aka Suzie Wong’s). 

 

Modelled to re-create the ambience of a decadent 30’s Shanghai Opium Den (before Cloud Nine came in and did an even better job of it), it is another venue for entertaining people watching, with a sizeable percentage of Poachers crowd/demographic often spilling onto here on Friday and Saturday nights.  The reasonably priced drinks here are actually quite good, but only if you can actually get past the door and find some room to breathe. 

 

Another notable feature here is a disproportionate amount of females there that seem a tad….underdressed (and by that I’m not meaning that they’re wearing torn jeans and a stained t-shirt). Accompanying some sunglass clad Armani suit wearing dude who looks like he’s got at least $30,000kuai stashed in that man bag/pouch of his as often as they are found chatting amongst themselves in small groups while obviously eyeing the crowd (and every male that steps through the door), you can’t help but come to the conclusion that the distinct difference between Poachers and Suzie Wongs is that you are more likely to have to pay for the women here….though sometimes it’s an incredibly fine line that’s hard to draw…As one visiting (male) friend from the Netherlands once remarked, ‘it’s like Russia, you never know if the women there are (for) real or not’….  The other thing I’m curious about is what cut does the place get for hosting such large numbers of pros….

 

Still, it’s a chilled place to hang out on Sunday night, when everyone seems to have gone home, or made enough for the week. 

 

And having offended enough people with my none too professional assessments of their favourite watering holes, I think it’s time to sign off before I get sued for defamation. 

 

Cheers indeed,

 

Cams

 

 

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