Bristol County Rabbit Rescue
Saving Lives,One Bunny At A Time"
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Rabbits are intelligent, social creatures with busy mind and body.Rabbits also have a generous life expectancy of ten or more years. Adding a bunny to your family will result in many years of laughter,love, and learning. Before you add a bunny to your family, you must take the time to learn more about these amazing (not to mention adorable) creatures. Keeping an open mind to the habits and traits of companion rabbits will interest, inspire, and captivate any aspiring bunny owner.
Rabbits, like us humans, go through general life stages. We must fully understand these stages to fully understand our rabbits.
Young rabbits (8weeks-4months) are commonly referred to as "baby" or "young" rabbits. At this stage bunnies are just beginning to"open their eyes to the world". They are open to new situations and poses little fear and much curiosity. This is an ideal age in which to begin socialization. Yes, baby bunnies are cute and little and sweet.... but baby bunnies DO GROW INTO ADULT BUNNIES! Many people who obtain young rabbits are "disappointed" when their rabbits grow up and "start acting like rabbits". If you are interested in adopting a young rabbit (if available) please consider carefully and speak to an adoption counselor to learn all the "pros and cons" of baby bunny ownership.
Adolescence ( 4months-8months) is often labeled the "teen age stage". Just like teenage humans, rabbits tend to become a little "cooky"(behavioral wise) at this time. A male's testicles will drop and a female will become fertile within this time. If you are housing male and female rabbits together, even if they are litter mates, separate them at this time. Sexually frustrated males may begin to express hyperactivity, digging,chewing,and urine spraying. Females may become more difficult to handle,harder to socialize with other bunnies,express territorial behavior,and often exhibit "false pregnancy". These normal developmental behaviors are often undesirable and frowned upon by us human caretakers. It is critical to realize that with consistent proper care and socialization, you and your bunny will grow through the time of adolescence. It is often recommended having your rabbit spayed/neutered at this time, speak to your vet for more information on what is right for your bunny Many uneducated owners discard their pet rabbits during this life stage. They may not realize that after only a few months of consistent care, and a routine spay/neuter, a much more "manageable" relation ship will arise.
Normality really starts to set in at maturity (8 months-6 years). Your rabbit will really seem to "mellow out" in the destructive behavior department. Most of the rabbits within shelter groups are aged 8 months through 2 years, right at the peak of maturity! A mature, socially acceptable bunny may be waiting for you at your local animal shelter.
Senior rabbits are those aged 6 years and older. Don't let the label "senior" fool you! Older bunnies often have just as much love to give and are typically already litter trained and socialized. Though their reflexes may be slower and they may nap more, a senior bunny is still an inquisitive bunny!
a quiet pre-weaning aged baby bunny, mischievous young bunnies, mellow mature bunnies, and a sweet laid back senior bunny
Caging
Rabbits do require an adequate sized cage and a significant amount of "free time" of "run time" per day. You should always purchase the largest size cage for your rabbit as possible. There should be enough room in the cage for your rabbit to leap,stretch,and stand comfortably, with plenty of room to hop about and explore.
A "bunny run" can be constructed using puppy "play pens"(often referred to as Xpens). You may even want to place the play pen around the cage to create a "yard" for your rabbit. The door of the cage can be left open to allow the rabbit to enter and exit the cage and yard freely,during supervised hours.
Multi leveled cages allow the maximum use of minimum space. You may choose to purchase a commercially made multi level cage, or even make one your self. You can very easily make a multi level cage by adding levels to an exceptionally tall cage ( one or two levels can be added to shorter cages). Attaching wooden or plastic panel pieces at various heights in the cage will allow levels. This can be done most easily using wooden levels. Measure the width of the cage and cut wooden planks to that size. Drill holes along the plank's sides and attach them to the cage's wire sides using metal secures or heavy plastic ties. Always be sure the levels are close enough that your rabbit can safely venture.
* whenever using Xpens,be sure to purchase one of appropriate height. Be sure your rabbit is unable to leap out and injure himself.
The babies enjoying their multi leveled cage
Your rabbit will need accessories within his cage to keep him occupied and to allow comfortable living.Proper accessories include;
1) water bottle
2) heavy sturdy food dish
3) rack of dish for hay
4) "hide-a-way" house, of sturdy wooden box with a large hole for hiding/resting in.
5) litter box
6) bunny-safe toys
Other supplies you will need for the cage include;
1) litter box material, newspaper,"yesterday's news" care fresh
2)suitable floor covering/substrate, hay, care fresh
*never use kitty litter or cob with rabbits, it can prove fatal*
You may want to use a different material litter box and flooring. This may help your rabbit distinguish the proper place to eliminate from the rest of the cage space.
If you are using an Xpen to allow a yard for your rabbit, you may choose to place an additional litter box within the yard area, to prevent accidents.
Play time
Your rabbit will need at least two hours of play/socialization time per day. This means allowing your rabbit to roam and explore in a bunny safe room/area. Bunny proof a room first by removing all heavy unsteady objects ( that expensive ming vase, for example), remove all harmful plants and other pets, be sure all doors and windows are safely bunny proofed/escape proof, cover all electrical cords with thick chew-proof covering (available at hardware stores), protect all outlets with safety "plugs"/covers and unplug all electric appliances ( T.V, radio, lamps, etc..). and double check that there is nothing harmful on the floor your bunny could chew on or be injured by ( Tacks, nails, glass pieces, old food pieces,strings, hair mattes,etc..). You may want to place a few litter boxes within the room for bunny to use ( and to spare your carpet). Place some old soil within the litter boxes first to familiarize your rabbit to their use. Out-of-cage litter box training takes time, but is a reachable goal.
When allowing your rabbit to explore his bunny safe area, always keep attention. For the first few days you should "hang out" in the area with your bunny. This will really give you an idea of how your rabbit acts "naturally" and allow him a little "security" in knowing that you are there.
Never leave a bunny unattended for prolonged periods of time outside of his cage! Your rabbit's safety should always be top priority, a keen eye and good judgment will result in many safe and fun "play times" together.
Duffy relaxing on the sofa during "free time"
Feeding your rabbit
The way we feed our rabbits has drastically changed over the years. The information provided seems to be what we are all "agreeing on" at the moment. Talk to your veterinarian to determine what diet plan is best for your rabbit.
Fresh water should always be available for your rabbit to drink.
Dark green leafy vegetables such as; lettuce (not ice burg), fresh herbs, leafy greens (collard, spinach,etc.), and green veggies (such as broccoli) should make up the main portion of your bunny's meal. You may also offer other types of vegetable and fruits in small gradual introduced amounts, to avoid stomach upset. Pellets should only make up a small portion of your rabbit's diet. Pellets often contain high amounts of calories and little "useful" roughage, resulting in an overweight bunny. However, pellets do assure that your rabbit is receiving the appropriate vitamin and nutrient percentages needed per day to assure safe and healthy development.
Hay (grass,timothy) should be available at ALL times. Hay is essential in maintaining a healthy balanced digestive tract.
Acceptable fruits veggies include;
1) apple
2) banana
3) broccoli
4) cabbage
5) carrot tops
6) carrots
7) celery
8) chard
9) cilantro
10) collard greens
11) dandelion greens
12) endive
13) kale
14) parsley
15) spinach
16) pears
17) peaches
18) plums
19) pineapple ( good for digestion)
20) papayas ( goos for digestion)
21) grapes
Never feed your rabbit;
1)beans
2) potato
3) rhubarb
4) avocado
5) crackers
6) cereals
7) bread
8) high sugar / high carbohydrate items items
9) meat of any kind ( but we hope you already knew that)
How much to feed your rabbit per day;
Rabbits Aged 7 weeks-7 months: unlimited alfalfa hay,some pellets,additional veggies and fruits (introduce them slowly and one at a time)
Rabbits Aged 7 months - 1 year: Offer grass hay (gradually eliminate alfalfa), limit pellets, expand fruit/veggie variety. Begin an adult diet of ; 4-6 oz of veggies per day, 1/2 oz of fruit, 1/8 cup of pellets (may be adjusted), and unlimited hay.
*measurements may need to be adjusted in accordance to your rabbit's individual needs*
Litter Box Training
A shot of Nelly using his litter box
Many people are pretty shocked when I tell them We litter train our rabbits, some just cannot fathum the idea of a rabbit using a designated "potty",But the rumors are true: Rabbits are able (and pretty willing) to use a litter box.
Most rabbits (beleive it or not) naturally litter box train themselves when a litter box is placed in the cage, while others need a little more guidence.
Acceptable litter boxes inclued: those commercialy designed for use with cats and kittens, low shallow sturdy plastic bins, and specifically designed bunny (or ferret) litter boxes (which are typically triangular in shape so they fit in a cage corner). Which ever box type you use, be sure your rabbit can enter and exit safely, and that you will be able to regularly and easily remove soiled litter. You will need to place a safe absorbant material inside the litter box. Suitable materials inclue: layed out paper towels, newspaper, care fresh brand bedding, yesterday's news brand bedding, shredded paper, and hay.Never use cat litter, cob, scented or fragranced materials, or any simular materials.
Observe your rabbit's cage, is there an area (most likely a corner) where your rabbit seems to be doing "all of his buisness"? if so, this is where you want to place the litter box. If your rabbit seems to eliminate in various areas within the cage, you can choose where to place the litter box yourself. Some rabbits tend to readily accept the use of the litter box, while others seem to rebel. If your rabbit does not immidiatly accept his new bathroom area, don't worry, he will eventually learn (with some help and patience form you). You may first want to try placing some soiled bedding in the new litter box, to accumulate your rabbit's scent. Do not change the litter box everyday until your rabbit realizes what he is supposed to be doing with it, if you do you will only be confusing your rabbit! Continue adding newly soiled bedding to the litter box on a daily basis. Eventually your rabbit should get the hang of it! If your rabbitis still reluctant towards the litter box try making it more appealing to him. An easy, affordable, and efficient way of doing so is by hanging a small hay holder/rack on the side of the cage next to the litter box. Place the hay rack in such a way that your rabbit has to enter the litter box to nibble the hay. While your rabbit is munching on his new found "jack pot" he will most likely eliminate within the litter box. This may trigger him to use the litter box more often and eventually completley.
You may want to train your rabbit to use the litter box when out of the cage also. This can be a bit tricky if you are unfamiliar with your rabbit's typical behavior. Unaltered rabbits will usually be more difficult to litter box train, as their "spraying" urrges tend to win them over. I usually start by placing approx 10 litterboxes filled with litter in various places (it is always better to use too many litter boxes than two few) within the bunny proofed area/room I plan on allowing my rabbit(s) free roam of. It is also suggested to start small! Do not simply allow your rabbit entire run of the house on the first training day, start small and progress slowly. I like to start with my living room ,as it is small in size and access to other rooms can easily be blocked using "baby gates." Put a little bit of soiled bedding (belonging to the rabbit you are training) within each of the litterboxes. This way your rabbit will smell his scent all over a room he has never been in! Since your rabbit already smells "himself" all over the place the chances of spraying decline.Allow your rabbit to explore all the new litter boxes independantly. Usually a rabbit will choose one or two boxes to use, although some rabbits will use any old box placed anywhere! When you have figured out what box(es) your rabbit favors, remove a few of the others, as you still want some extra boxes around to keep accidents at minimal. After a few days, remove a few more and so on. Remove the extra boxes until only your rabbits' one or two favored boxes remain.
If your rabbit is not using the litter boxes you have provided, but tends to eliminate in a single area (or several areas) ,place a litter box within thoses prefered areas, even though they may be in odd places. My rabbit Scooter will only used a litter box placed under the bed when roaming my bed room.Sure the location is weird, but I'd rather have an off beat litter trained bunny than have bunny poop all over my bedroom!
Rabbit hygeine and grooming
Longer haired rabbits, such as Pewter, one of the program's Jersey Woollys', require more frequent grooming than their shorter haired counterparts
Regular hygeine and routine health care can really make the difference between life and death durring an emergency situation.
Never give your rabbit a traditional bath, rabbits may easily chill and become ill if submerged in water. Instead follow some of the steps below to keep your rabbit clean and looking sharp!
Routine grooming can help prevent hairballs,blockages, and other conditions. When grooming your rabbit you will also have the chance to notice otherwise undetectable conditions, such as; small discolored areas of skin, lumps, scabs,and fur mites/parasites.Rabbits generally shed through out the year, some shedding more heavily durring the fall and spring months. Some even report their rabbits entering a single heavy shed once a year. Durring a typically heavy shed your rabbit's fur will look particularily "patchy", it is best to groom your rabbit daily durring this time to remove any loose hairs.
As a general rule of thumb, short coated rabbits should be thoroughly groomed once weekly. Long coated rabbits should be thoroughly groomed every other day (more frequently with a young rabbit or heavy shedder). Soft bristle brushes are good for removing loose top layer hairs, while metal bristle or "flea combs" work well in removing any loose-about-to-shed fur under the top layers of fur. When grooming your rabbit be sure to keep stress levels at a minimum. Hold your rabbit firmly yet gently on your lap. Gently rub your fingers through the coat to check for any detectable lumps or scabs. Monitor the appearence of the fur, including the skin underneath. Check for any sign of injury, abnormal discoloring, and signs of parasitic infection (such as flea dander). Be sure to maintain a "freindly" disposition with your rabbit durring grooming, as grooming can be an excellent bonding opportunity. Begin by brushing the fur with a wire brush, be sure to move gently and slowly. After removing most of the fur with the wire brush do a "double check" with a soft bristle brush.
Now that you are done with the largest aspect of grooming, you can move on to the trickiest, nail clipping. When clipping your rabbit's nails always remian gentle and move slowly. You in no way want to frighten your rabbit into hateing his grooming sessions. When clipping nails you always want to locate the "quick" or vein at the base of the rabbit's nail. You in no way want to clip this as is could cause minor to severe bleeding and pain. On light colored nails you should be able to locate the "quick" very easily, it should be pinkish in color and run up as much as half way the length of the nail (depending on how long the nails are grown). On dark colored nails the "quick" will be harder to locate. To be on the safe side, you may want to illuminate the nail ,from either the front or back,to cause a transparency within the nail. You will be able to see the "quick" as a dark shadow. Using nail clippers, or grooming clippers, gently yet firmly snip off the long overgrowth of the nail located above the "quick". You in no way want to cut the "quick". If you do not feel comfortable trimming close to the quick, don't! Trim the nail with a little excess nail to form a barrier between your clippers and the rabbit's tender vein. If, in any way, you do not feel comfortable trimming your rabbit's nails, ask your veterinarian for help. Most rabbit savvy vets will readily clip your rabbit's nails at a reasonable rate, and may also show you how to properly do so.
While grooming your rabbit you may want to examine the ears. If you notice any waxy buildup wipe it away (gently) with a slightly moist (not wet) cotton ball. Do not clean the inner depths of the ears, only the easily reachable upper areas. If you notice any buildup within the inner ear contact your Veterinarian. Many "bunny parents" use otic chlorhexidine solution, diluted rubbing alcohol, or a commercial ear cleaning solution to clean their rabbit's ears.
Occasionaly you may need to clean your rabbit's rump and hindquarters. Do so by gently rolling your rabbit onto his back with his head gently resting on your chest. We call this the "baby hold" as it looks like you are holding a little baby. Be gentle yet firm, as you do not want your rabbit to injur him self by wriggling around, but you don't want to sqeeze him to death either (This is where trust and bonding come in, the more trusted and bonded you are to your bunny, the easier grooming and handeling will be). Examine your rabbits genitle area. Can you see (or smell) any fecal build up, this is fairly common in long haired breeds. If so, you will want to remove this buildup to prevent bacterial infection, sever matting , and (eeewwwh) maggot infestation. Use a wire tooth comb to GENTLY brush away any loose feces. If the feces is dried, try moistening it with a bit of diluted rubbing alcohol solution. Alcohol naturally loosens and "eats away" at feces. Continue removing the feces until it is easy to wipe away and clean the area. If your rabbit is long haired and has a matt of fur containing feces, try removing the entire matt useing scissors. Simply ( and very carefully) cut the matt free from the body, and be very careful not to nip any skin in the process! After you have removed all the soil from the genetal area, wipe clean useing an alcohol :water solution and rinse clean with moist cotton balls. You can "wash away" any other stained or soiled fur on the stomach, chest, and feet by useing the alcohol solution on the cotton ball. Some rabbits may even let you use a spray bottel to apply the solution, though I have met very few. If your rabbit lets you use the spray bottel, you can certainly use it. Whenever you apply moisture to your rabbit's fur, be sure to blot most of it back up with a piece of absorbant tissue.
While grooming, if you motice any discharge from the eyes,ears,nose, mouth, or anus, notice any extremely foul odors, notcie any flakey, dry, or "crispy" skin, or anything else that just "isn't normal" contact your veterinarian. Check your rabbit's teeth also, contact your veterinarian immediatly if you suspect misalighnment or abcess.
Befriending your rabbit
Many people who obtian a pet rabbit often have the misconception that their rabbit will become a little "floppy eared kitten", although some rabbits do act as if they are "kitty cousins", most act like rabbits (which they naturally should). We must always remember that rabbits do not naturally live with humans. Many thousands of years ago humans domesticated rabbits, and bred them to their likeing. Eventually humans started to truly domesticate rabbits by allowing them to enter and reside within the same homes as their humans.We have altered the wild rabbit and transformed him into a little cuddly mold of what our imaginations can only fathum. Although domesticated rabbits do not look exactly like their wild cousins, they still do indeed hold on to much of the basic instinct and behavior they originated with.
Understanding this basic behavior helps us to befreind and bond with our pet rabbits,earning their trust and their likeing.
Rabbits are, by nature, social creatures. In the wild they live in groups called warrens, where they interact and socialize with eachother.Within a human enviroment rabbits will interact with other domesticated rabbits, other pets, and their human caretakers. To fully enjoy the company of your rabbit you must first earn trust and form a bond. Rabbits are prey animals by nature, meaning they are pretty low on the food chain, and must always stay on the look out for other animals trying to make a meal of them! Domestic rabbits (especially rabbits recently added to your home) may view their human care takers as predators, that is until you earn their trust!
Rabbits rely on predictability. The more predictable your behavior and actions when around your rabbit, the better.For the first few days after your rabbit joins your household, resist holding him and playing with him fully: Feed your rabbit around the same time each day, interact with him gently and offer him a few treats or a toy to play with. Each day extend the amount of time you spend with your rabbit to get him more used to your frequent presence. Before actually holding your rabbit, you may want to use the fail proof bunny-bonding method "let hime come to you. Bunny proof the area surrounding your rabbit's cage and open the door. Sit still and quietly in the middle of the area, keep your arm,hands,legs,feet, and head reasonably still ( rabbits don't quite understand/realize that our arms and legs are an extension of our body just like their legs and paws. Excessive movement of your limbs may lead your rabbit to beleive you are a mean predatory monster!). Your rabbit won't be able to help himself, his desire to explore and express curiosity will get the best of him, he will eventually exit the cage. Rabbits are too very curious creatures, they will explore, sniff, and even nibble just about everything if allowed.
Eventually your rabbit will approach you just to "check you out". Don't be hasty, remain still. Your rabbit may sniff you then run away quickly. He will return, he has to by nature! Your rabbit may also put his front paws on you, lick your skin, or even nibble your clothing. Some rabbits even hop right into their owner's laps. Once your rabbit has hopped into your lap be still. You may want to vocalize in gentle soft tones to your rabbit, to reassure him and get him used to the sound of your voice. Never force a rabbit to come to you or sit on your lap (or force him out of his cage, he should always exit his cage willingly), This will only regress any trust you have earned with your rabbit already! After a few "sit and stare" sessions with your rabbit (in the manor discussed) your rabbit will become more "testy" and "risky" with you. When your rabbit initiates he feels comfortable in your presence, you can stroke his fur gently and move about a bit more, always progress slowly and remain patient! After much time and patience your rabbit will want to sit and nuzzle with you and may actually enjoy your company.
If you have an exceptionaly "stubborn" rabbit you may need ta take a more extreme approach to the bonding process. Try offering your rabbit a treat while he is in his cage a few times a day, such as a piece of apple of romaine lettuce. After a few days (or possibly more) your rabbit should realize you are not "out to get him", instead you are leaving him little treats! When you truly feel as though your rabbit feels comfortable with you occasional "gifts" you may advance in your approach. Now, instead of simply giving your rabbit the treat and leaving, stay! Kneel down to his level yet remain a safe distance as not to frighten your rabbit. Offer a small treat (keep several on hand). Your rabbit should feel comfortable enough to take the treat from you. Some rabbits at this point hop happily out of their cage to explore their owners, while others still seem reluctant. If your rabbit hops out and loves you almost instantly, good for you! If not, sit and stay a while. Sit or kneel at level with your rabbit and remain fairly still. Try not to keep constant eye contact, instead look around at other objects and act as if you could care less about your rabbit. Sometimes when a rabbit thinks you are not looking at him he will feel confident enough to approach. Stareing heavily at your rabbit will only lead him to beleive you are a hungry predator eyeing him. After a few minutes offer another treat. continue to do so every 5-10 minutes. If your rabbit does not approach you within 30 minutes of you "not" watching and offering treats, call it quits for now. It is best to make this coaxing a habit, preferably for the same length of time at around the same time of day. Your rabbit is amazing at predicting behavior, and if he sees you as a predicatable creature he is more likely to feel comfortable around you! Eventually your rabbit will become so tempted by your offered treats that he will hop right out of his cage on his own. When this happens remain calm, do not act over excited as this will break your rabbit's understanding of your "predictable behavior". Continue offering treats as your rabbit approaches you (remember moderation however). After a few sessions in which your rabbit willingly approaches you, begin talking softly to him and attempt to approach him slowly and rub his forehead with only one or two of your fingers. Eventually with much persistance and patience your rabbit will willingly explore you and your surroundings, which will lead to more "owner bunny contact" in which your rabbit will learn to trust you and you to trust your rabbit.
Lifting bunny
Sometimes lifting your rabbit/picking your rabbit up is necessary. Rabbits typically do not like being picked up and handeled against their own accord. Some rabbits despise being held so much that they will try everything within their power to wriggle free from their carrier's arms and may even hurt themselves in the process! Only lift and carry your rabbit when you truly need to. When ever lifting your rabbit, firly but gently grasp and support him under his chest and rump. Then hold him against your chest firmly untill you reach your desired destination.
Pet Rabbit Care.
Background
They can be trained to use a litter box, they’ll come when called, and some will engage their owners in a daily game of tag! Domestic rabbits are delightful companion animals. They are inquisitive, intelligent, sociable and affectionate—and if well-cared for, indoor rabbits can live for seven to ten or more years.
There’s a lot of variety among domestic rabbits. The more than 60 breeds include the Dutch, who’s very popular in the United States, droopy eared German lops and furry Cashmeres. Rabbits range in size from teeny two-pounders to the 13-pound Flemish Giant.
Rabbits and Children: Some Words of Caution
Our culture is so filled with images of children and rabbits together (think the Easter bunny and Peter Rabbit) that many parents see rabbits as low-maintenance starter pets for kids. Nothing could be further from the truth. Rabbits are physically delicate and fragile, and require specialized veterinary care. It’s true that children are naturally energetic and loving, but “loving” to a small child means holding, cuddling, or carrying an animal around—precisely the things that frighten most rabbits. Rabbits can’t cry out when distressed. Instead, they may start to scratch or bite to protect themselves from well-meaning children. Thousands are abandoned at animal shelters every year for this reason. Many rabbits are also dropped accidentally by children, resulting in broken legs and backs. While a rabbit may be a great pet for your family, an adult should be the primary caretaker.
Cost
When you first get your rabbit, you’ll need to spend about $90 for a cage, $30 for a carrier and $25 for a litter box. Food runs about $125 a year, plus $25 annually for toys and treats, $125 for veterinary care and $400 annually for litter and bedding material.
The best place to get your bun? Adoption is your first, and best, option! There are many homeless companion rabbits at shelters and rescue groups all across the country.
Housing and Exercise
Where’s the only place for your rabbit’s cage? INDOORS! Although an outdoor hutch has been the traditional housing for a rabbit, today we know better. A backyard hutch forces these social critters to live in unnatural isolation. Furthermore, rabbits can die of heart attacks from the very approach of a predator or vandal. Keep your bunny safe indoors, where he can have plenty of interaction with family members.
They may be small, but rabbits require a lot of room for housing and exercise. They have powerful hind legs designed for running and jumping. Get your pet a cage that allows him to move freely. The minimum recommended cage space for a single rabbit of a small- to medium-sized breed is four feet wide, two feet deep and two feet tall. Although wire-bottom cages are common, they can ulcerate a rabbit’s feet. If you have a wire cage, cover the bottom with a piece of wood or corrugated cardboard. Better yet, buy a cage with a solid bottom. Please put down plenty of straw, hay or aspen shavings so your pet can make a cozy nest..
Did you know that many rabbits have been surrendered to shelters because of destructive behavior? In most cases, their owners failed to provide them with appropriate toys to fulfill their natural urges to dig and chew. Safe chew toys include cardboard boxes, an old telephone directory (that’s no joke!) and commercially made chew sticks. You bun will greatly appreciate his own digging box, such as a cardboard box filled halfway with soil or shredded paper.
Your rabbit needs a safe exercise area with ample room to run and jump, either indoors or out. Any outdoor area should be fully enclosed by a fence. Never leave a rabbit unsupervised outdoors—even for a few minutes! Cats, dogs and even predatory birds can easily get around fencing material. Also, rabbits can dig under fences and get lost. You can rabbit-proof an indoor area by covering all electrical wires and anything else your pet is likely to chew. Recommended exercise time for pet rabbits is several hours per day.
Diet
The most important component of your rabbit’s diet is grass hay, such as timothy or brome. This is crucial for keeping his intestinal tract healthy. Unlimited hay should be available at all times.
You’ll also need to feed your bunny good-quality rabbit pellets. Opt for a formula with at least 15 to 19 percent protein and 18 percent fiber. Until your pet is fully grown (around six months), he can have all the pellets he wants. After that, pellets should be limited to 1/8 to 1/4 cup per day per five pounds of bunny body weight. Pellets should be fresh and plain, without seeds, nuts or colored tidbits.
Fresh leafy greens make up a third component of your pet’s diet. He’ll enjoy dark leaf lettuces, collard greens, turnip greens and carrot tops. We recommend a minimum of two cups per six pounds of rabbit.
Clean, fresh water, dispensed in a bottle or sturdy bowl, should be available at all times.
Litter Training
Rabbits are very clean by nature, and will do their best to keep their living quarters clean. Most rabbits will choose one corner of the cage as a bathroom. As soon as your rabbit’s choice is clear, put a newspaper-lined litter box in that corner. Fill it with timothy hay (or any other grass hay except alfalfa) or pelleted-newspaper litter. If the litter box is changed daily, your rabbit’s home will stay fresh and odor-free. Don’t use pine or cedar shavings! The fumes may affect your rabbit’s liver enzymes, which can cause problems if the animal needs anesthesia for surgery. Avoid using clay cat litters (both clumping and non-clumping), as these may result in respiratory or gastrointestinal problems.
Handling and General Care
Rabbits can be messy, so you’ll need to clean your pet’s cage once or twice weekly. Put your rabbit in a safe room or alternate cage as you sweep out the cage and scrub the floor with warm, soapy water.
Pick up your rabbit by supporting his forequarters with one hand and his hindquarters with the other—failure to do so can result in spinal injuries to the rabbit. Never pick up a rabbit by his ears; this can cause very serious injury.
Brush your rabbit regularly with a soft brush to remove excess hair and keep his coat in good condition. Brush from the back of the head down to the tail. Ask your veterinarian how to clip your pet’s nails.
Health and Veterinary Care
Rabbits should be spayed or neutered by a veterinarian experienced with rabbit surgeries. Spaying or neutering prevents unwanted litters, spraying in males and uterine cancer in females.
You should bring your pet to the vet for a check-up once a year. If your rabbit stops eating or moving his bowels for 12 hours or longer or has watery diarrhea, don’t wait--seek expert veterinary care immediately. Other signs of illness include runny nose and eyes, dark red urine, lethargy, fur loss and red, swollen skin.
Credit: www.aspca.org
Check out this House bunny care video!: http://www.abc.net.au/creaturefeatures/facts/housebunnies.htm