For Personal use Only!

This tutorial and images are copyright to Beth's Babies Nursery.

MATERIALS

•1 Sleeping doll kit with ¾ limbs
• 7 well porcelain palette
• Odourless Paint Thinners
• Genesis Heat Set Paints:
• Flesh 07
• Flesh 08
• Pyrrole Red
• Dioxazine Purple
• Phthalo Green 06
• Phthalo Blue 02
• Burnt Umber
• Genesis Glazing Gel
Brushes and tools:
• 2 x 1/2 inch Maxine’s Mops
• 2 x 3/4 inch Maxine’s Mops
• 2 x Filbert brushes
• Size 00 round brush
• Size 1 round brush
• Fine line brush
• Fan brush
• Berry Maker
• 4 x wedge make-up sponges
• Pointed tipped cotton buds
• Paper towels
• Make-up remover pads
• 10 x 40G crown felting needles
• Mushroom pin vice
• 1/2 ounce of premium quality slightly wavy Angora goat Mohair
• Tacky Glue clear drying
• Doe suede 3/4 limb jointed body
• 1 kilo Polly Pellets
• 3kg bag of Hobby Fill or Polly Fill
• 3 x large thin cable ties
• 2 x small thin cable ties
• Pair of craft pliers
• 2 x Knee-high stockings
• Wide tooth comb
General items needed:
• Oven set at 130 degrees C
• Baking tray
• New tea towel
• Clock or timer
• Palette knives
• Sharp pair of scissors
• Craft knife
• Spray bottle with water and conditioner mix
• Outfit for your baby (size 0000)
• 1 Huggies newborn disposable nappy
• Pair of shoes or booties size 0000 or newborn
Finished size: 46-48cm (18-19 inches)


PREPARATION


Wash your doll kit thoroughly to remove any oily substance or dust and leave to dry overnight.
Setting up your work space:
Fill the middle well of your palette with Odourless Thinners.
Well 1:
Place Flesh 07 around 1/2 a palette knife full, (this is the colour that you will be using the most of).
Well 2:
Place Pyrrole Red 02 around 1/8th of a palette knife (this colour will be used for blotches, blush, creases and lips).
Well 3:
Place a very small dot of Burnt Umber (this will be used for eyebrows).
Well 4:
Place the same amount of Dioxazine Purple (this is used for the inside wash).
Well 5:
Place the same amount of Phthalo Blue (this is used for the inside blue wash behind ears, nose, eyes and temple area).
Well 6:
Place the same amount of Phthalo Green 06 (this is used for mixing with the blue for veins and also to
help if you have over blushed, you will need to apply a last finish of a green wash).
Lay your brushes out and some paper towels, also a couple of the make-up remover pads as they will be needed
when you do the veining. Place a clean tea towel onto a baking tray making sure no edges are showing without
overlapping the tray. Then place your head and limbs on top of the tea towel.
*Turn your oven on and leave it at 130 degrees C. Keep the oven on until all of your painting is finished.*

Step 1 - Inside Wash (only on older kits)



Dip your fan brush into the thinners and wipe it into Well 4. Repeat this 10 times then dab
your brush onto the paint and mix with the thinners until you have a nice transparent colour. Do not add more.
This is the only time you will be using any of this mix throughout the reborning process.

Place your fan brush inside the head and wipe a layer of the wash completely covering the inside;
only use a very thin layer, then place the head in the middle of the tray. Now apply the same to the
inside of the limbs – try not to put too much on the brush at one time, and always make sure
you have no paint on your hands.

Place the limbs onto the tray, making sure they do not touch each other, or the metal on the tray or
the bars in the oven. Place inside the bottom shelf in the oven.

Let them cook for eight minutes; no longer. Allow the kit to go cold.

**Every time you put pieces of the doll into the oven it is important to follow these steps**

1. The limbs should not touch each other
2. The limbs should not touch the metal of the tray
3. The limbs should not touch the bars of the oven
4. The tray holding the limbs needs to be covered
5. Cook for eight minutes (no more, no less)
6. Allow to cool completely.



Step 2 - Blotching



Dip your 1/2 inch Maxine’s Mop brush into the thinners and wipe it into Well 2. Repeat this 10 times, then dab your brush onto the paint and mix with the thinners until you have a nice transparent colour. Add more when you need it as you will be using a lot more of this mix throughout the reborning process), but make sure it is a very thin transparent mix.

Get your berry maker and snip off the top, it should be a flat surface with plenty of the foam still on it.

Swirl it around the mix and then using your paper towels dab the berry maker until it leaves a ring with a clear middle centre; dab the berry maker all over the entire kit in a random or brickwork pattern, repeat the swirling of the mix and dabbing onto the paper towels until you have completely covered the entire surface of the baby. On the inside corners of the eyelids try making it a little bit darker but not too much. Put the limbs in the oven for eight minutes and then cool.



Step 3 - Inside Colouring



Dip your fan brush into the thinners and wipe it into Well 5. Repeat five times then dab your brush onto the paint and mix with the thinners until you have a nice transparent colour. Do not add more. Place your fan brush inside the head and wipe a layer of the wash completely covering the back of the eyes, ears, temple and nose; only use a very thin layer, then place the head in the middle of the tray. Place the head in the oven for eight minutes and then cool.



Step 4 - Veins









Dip your #1 round brush into Well 6 and wipe it into the well with the Well 5 mix then add more thinners
until you have a nice transparent colour. Do not add more. This colour is only used for the veins. Have
your makeup remover pads ready. Dip your brush into the mix and do squiggly lines on the paper towel
until you can see that there is hardly any paint left on the brush.

Now look at your own hands and feet to give you an idea of where the veins would be on a baby. You will
notice that babies tend to have more visible veins on their heads than an adult. If you don’t have a
baby/child to look at, search under ‘Babies’ on the internet to give you an idea of where their veins go.

The usual places for veins are on the back of the hands and feet, the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands,
down the legs around the ankles, on the insides of the arms just above the wrists, also on the temples,
near the eyes and down under the cheeks, the neck and also more prominently on the baby’s scalp.

Have a make-up remover pad in your hand and lightly draw the veins with the #1 round brush, then gently
wipe straight away with the makeup remover pad. If by chance you make a mistake by putting too much paint
onto the limbs, immediately dip your make-up remover pad into the thinners and gently wipe the mistake
until clear. Then dab it with a clean dry make-up remover pad. When you have finished the veins, have a
look over the doll just to make sure you have not missed anywhere and also if it looks good and you are happy;
then again place the head and limbs in the oven for eight minutes and allow to go cold.



Step 5 - First layer of flesh tone



Dip your 1/2 inch Maxine’s Mop brush into the thinners and wipe it into Well 1. Repeat 10 times then dab
your brush onto the paint and mix with the thinners until you have a nice transparent colour.
You will need a lot more as you will using a lot of this throughout the reborning process.

Take one of your make-up wedges and wipe some of the mix onto it. Pounce the wedge onto every part
of the kit including the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands, as you go along try not to wipe or smear
where you have painted. The limbs and head should look as if they have tiny little spots on them, and
when you have finished again have a look over it (try not to go over the paint again before cooking
as it will only take the paint off).

When you are happy with the look, place the head and limbs in the oven for eight minutes.



Step 6 - First layer of blush



Mix the blush mix around, as the paint settles after a while. Dip your clean 1/2 inch Maxine’s Mop brush
into the blush mix then dry the sides of the brush on the paper towel making sure not to take the paint off the
tip of the brush, then lightly dab (with the very tip of the brush) the cheeks and the tip of the ear, making
a freckle look, then use a fresh make-up wedge and lightly blend the blush into the cheeks and ears.

Dip your brush back into the mix wiping the sides of the brush onto the palette and then just dab the wedge
with the blush. Start at the top of the head as if it is too dark it will not matter as it looks good seeing the little red patches underneath the hair. Then, when it is a bit lighter, go over the cheeks and ears where you have blended before.

The arms:  the main blush is on the palms of the hands, the tips of the fingers, and on the nails to give the nail bed a nice background colour and slightly on the elbows, then just lightly pounce around the arms randomly.


The feet:
again the main blush is on the soles. Look at your own feet and see the pattern of the foot itself – you will see
that it goes from the big toe around to the little toe then down and across the heel in almost a ‘C’ pattern on the left
foot and the right foot is a back-to front ‘C’. Then pounce the toenails, the ankles and the knees; then randomly pounce anywhere, as this will give a dimension in the skin texture. When you are satisfied with the look, place
the head and limbs onto the covered tray and cook for eight minutes. Allow to go cold.



Step 7 - Flesh blending

Now we repeat the flesh, so dip your 1/2 inch Maxine’s Mop brush into Well 1. Take your flesh make-up wedge
and wipe some of the mix onto it. Pounce the wedge onto every part of the kit,= except the soles of the feet and
the palms of the hands. As you go along try not to wipe or smear any flesh on those two parts. The limbs and head
should look a pale flesh tone with a pinkish blush; you should see the effect now on the skin from these three
steps. When you are satisfied, place the head and limbs onto the covered tray and cook for eight
minutes and allow to cool.



Step 8 - Blush detailing

Now we repeat the blush – again dip your 1/2 inch Maxine’s Mop brush into the well with the blush mix (stirring
as you go along) then wipe onto a paper towel and then onto your blushing make-up wedge and again start at
the top of the head, then the cheeks, nose, chin and ears. With the legs, blush the soles, ankles and knees and again
 randomly if you wish. With the arms, blush the palms, the elbow and randomly again but lightly. Again place
in the oven for another eight minutes, then allow it to go cold.



Step 9 - Last flesh

Now we repeat the flesh, so dip your 1/2 inch Maxine’s Mop brush into Well 1. Take your flesh make-up wedge
and wipe some of the mix onto it. Pounce the wedge onto every part of the kit, except the soles of the feet and
the palms of the hands. As you go along try not to wipe or smear any flesh on those two parts.

The limbs and head should look a pale flesh tone with a pinkish blush; you should see an even better colour now
on the skin. When you have finished again have a look over it (try not to go over the paint again before cooking
as it will only take the paint off). If it looks good, place the head and limbs onto the covered tray and cook
for eight minutes and then cool.



Step 10 - Detailing the creases

Here we use the larger 3/4 inch Maxine’s Mop brush and the #1 round brush. Stir up the blush mix (if you find
your blush a bit dark, blend it with more thinners to weaken it) then dip your #1 round brush into the mix and
do squiggly lines on the on the paper towel until you can see that the brush is not dripping, but enough paint
is left on the brush to get onto the kit (look at the sculpt and you will see many lines, creases and dimples –
every one of them you have to detail.

Try to hold your Round brush as you do when you paint, and in the same hand, hold the 3/4 inch Maxine’s
Mop facing down (it sounds a bit awkward, but once you get the hang of it, you will find that it is the easiest
way to do this). Now as you paint a crease you blend it with the 3/4 inch Maxine’s Mop brush, paint every
crease from the bottom of the feet to the top of its head, the nail beds and inside the nose and ears.

As soon as you do this step you will find your sculpt is turning into a little person; this is my favourite step
as you yourself will find. After all the creases are done check to make sure you have not missed any.



Step 11 - Nails, lips and eyebrows

Nails:
take your #00 round brush and dip it into your Flesh 08 jar, you use it straight from the jar so you don’t
waste any, as I only use a small amount on the nails. Paint a very fine line across the tips of every nail trying to
keep it inside the nail bed itself and if you go outside the bed carefully wipe it off with the pointy side of the
cotton bud as soon as possible.

Lips: again take your Filbert brush and go over the lips again with your blush mix.

Eyebrows: place around one to two drops of Odourless Thinners into Well 3. Take your fine line brush and just
dab it into the Burnt Umber, then mix it with the Thinners in the well. When it is mixed it should be a thicker
consistency than your flesh or blush mixes. Carefully paint the eyebrows, one hair at a time, lightly and as
fine as you can. Place the eyebrows on the brow line, not too far above and not too far below as the eyebrows
have that feature that either makes the sculpt beautiful or makes it ugly.

Place in the oven for eight minutes, then allow to go cold. Wash out your Filbert brush
thoroughly with warm water and detergent.



Step 12 - Glossi

Take your clean Filbert brush and wipe it into the jar of Glazing Gel. Go over the lips first, followed by the eyes
(just the slits of the eyes and a touch in the inside corners), then the nostrils, (NOT TOO MUCH) then all the creases,
inside the ears. Then go over the nail beds, taking care to stay in the nail beds. Again place in the oven for eight
minutes, then allow it to go cold. You will probably have to repeat this, especially on the nails and lips.

Take note: With every step throughout the painting and gloss you must heat set the paints in your oven set at 130
degrees C for approximately eight minutes; no less as if it is not heat set and you need to wipe off any
mistakes, you will actually be wiping off all the work you have done.



Step 13 - Rooting the hair

With a lead pencil, lightly draw your hair line. Place a small amount of the Mohair onto the top of the head.
Load your pin vice with a felting needle. Make sure it is tight or it will keep going back inside the vice, and hold
it as shown here. Now try taking one hair at a time, pull it down to the hair line and holding it at an angle close
to the scalp, press the needle firmly inside, then pull it back out; you should see a hair in the head.

Do this evenly spaced and all around the hairline, when you have done that repeat it again in a brick work pattern
similar to this: ,’,’,’,’,’,’,. Repeat this all around the head and continue until you have reached a circle about
the size of a five cent coin; tilt your needle to an angle, and then keep turning the head as you go,
keeping the needle on the same angle to make the swirl pattern of a baby’s crown.

As soon as you have completed the hair, the eyelashes need to be micro rooted as well. Very finely, and spaced
evenly, root the lashes on the slit part of the eye, from one corner to the other. Now you are done. Once
all the rooting is finished, put your baby’s head upside down in a coffee mug, now pour around the size of a 50
cent coin again of Tacky Glue, evenly spread the glue with your fan brush all over the inside of the head
where you have put the hair and don’t forget the eyelashes need to be glued on the inside as well.

Put the head in the mug on a window sill or somewhere it will get the sun. It should not
take longer than two days to dry.

After the first day, have a look and if it looks like it is almost dried take your brush again and spread the
remaining wet glue around, just so it will dry evenly. This step you must do at least two times as you don’t want
all that hard work you just finished on the hair to just fall out when you are brushing it.

Now last thing, comb through some conditioner to get all the knots out but do this gently – the hair can still break.
When it can be combed through, get your scissors and cut the hair to a length you are happy with. Now you c
an style it and have fun before you start finishing the body and assembling her.



Step 14 - Filings

Place all your parts to your baby on your work bench. Get her body, and thread the large cable ties through
the neck and legs, and then the small cable ties through the arms. Fill the arms and legs with Polly Fill
so it is full but not too stuffed, then fill one of the stockings with Polly Pellets but do not overfill; then
tie a knot and fold the remaining part of the stocking over the filled piece again so then the bag of
pellets is stronger. Place the filled bag inside the body and then put a small amount of Polly Fill over the bag
 – just enough to give it a soft cover as shown in the pictures below.

Take your legs and fill them to just above the knees. Fill the rest of the leg with Polly Fill tightly; do the same
with the arms, just above the elbows then stuff the rest again with Polly Fill. Take another stocking and place
around a handful of Polly Pellets into it then tie and fold over again. Place this bag inside the head. Now fill the
spaces inside the head with Polly Fill tightly. Now you are ready for the assembly of your new little baby.



Step 15 - Assembling the baby

Place your filled body in front of you with the belly facing up (cable tie ends are at the back of the body). Now take
the legs and make sure you have them in the right leg joint, thread the cable tie and tighten it until it is very close;
do not over tighten it as you need to be able to move the limbs freely but not too loose to be able to come apart;
now do the same with the arms and the head. Snip the edges of the cable ties with your craft pliers, and now
enjoy dressing and naming your baby.





Congratulations
Your baby is now ready for plenty of cuddles and love.




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