Introduction:
Logistics: Driving in
Key Sites:
There are many potentially good sites on the island, but here are those which we found most productive, or which offer good chances of the island’s specialities. Common avifauna is limited, but abundant island birds of interest to the British birder include Red Kite, Sardinian Warbler, Hooded Crow, Spotless Starling and Serin.
1. Gorges de la Restonica :
In our opinion the number one site for mountain species, with a backdrop of breath-taking scenery. Access is off the N193 at Corte; follow signs for Restonica and take the D623 up the valley. From top to bottom:
· Lac de Capitello at 1700m is the number one site on the island for Alpine Accentor in the spring. These were not present on our trip but tame flocks of Corsican Citril Finch and Alpine Chough were observed. Note that two hard-going climbs are required.
· Berg. de Grotello is the furthest point to be reached by car and probably one of the two best sites on the island for mountain raptors. Both Golden Eagle and Lammergeier were seen here in the evening, after the heat of the day.
· Tuani is a tiny camping-restaurant complex approximately half-way up the valley, on your left if you are going up. The mature Corsican Pines around the river and bridge hold at least two pairs of Corsican Nuthatch, which were extremely active in the evening.
2.
Access is via the long and tortuous D147 off the N197, just N of Ponte Leccia. Allow at least 1½ hours to reach the top of the valley.
· Haut-Asco at the head of the valley is another traditional site for both endemics. We encountered several Corsican Nuthatch by walking straight up the valley for 200m from the car park to where you reach the most mature pines. Raptors are likely here.
· 6km below Haut Asco is a very narrow river bridge. Park up and look up the valley to an obvious rock pinnacle, which local birders inform us is a regular perch for Lammergeier. Almost any stop within the valley is guaranteed to produce Crag Martin. Doubtless a number of other mountain species could be seen in the valley in Spring.
· The orchards and farmland within a few miles of the N197 hold a good number of butterflies including Cardinal and Swallowtail.
3. Etang de Biguglia:
Rather disappointing on our visit, though Audouin’s Gull should be seen amid the gull flock at the north end of the lake, best viewed from the D107 just N of La Marana. Fan-tailed Warbler was common. Moustached Warbler is a regular visitor here though generally later in the year. A huge lake, with great potential for birds on passage.
4. Etang d’Urbino
One of a series of promising lakes around Aleria on the east coast. Access is via an un-mapped road which leads down the central peninsula, signposted off the N198. This is probably the best site for large waterbirds in
5.
Another site for mountain birdlife, though during our visit we found this an excellent site for endemic butterfly species, with good numbers of Corsican Heath and Corsican Grayling as well as Cardinal, Southern Grayling and “Mediterranean” Wall Brown (L.m. paramagaera). The Corsican race of Crossbill was abundant here.
6. The Bonifacio Area
By far the most exciting birding area on the island, especially as Mediterranean migration was underway at this time. A number of sites, all easily accessible, offer good birding with a good variety of species. Our visit coincided with an amazing movement of Bee-eaters, with up to 500 passing over our villa daily. Other highlights include the full range of Sylvia warblers and daily sightings of the spectacular Two-tailed Pasha butterfly. In order of priority:
· The Pertusadu Lighthouse is accessed off the D58 out of Bonifacio. Leaving the town, the road forks - take the D260 and continue to park at the customs building on the cliff. Walk across the scrub to the lighthouse.
· The D60 from the N196 runs through the maquis and is an excellent place to find the Sylvia species. We had several of each calling, and stunning views of at least one male Marmora’s Warbler. Woodlark is also present here. Park opposite the two gas cylinders about 1500m from the N196 and walk across the scrub on your left.
· Bonifacio itself is an excellent site. Blue Rock Thrush nest on the battlement walls and Rock Sparrow are present in the citadel itself, though we only heard them. Spanish Sparrow are present in small numbers in the gardens of the harbour car park and can be easily picked out from the local Italian jobs.
Daily Summaries:
27.8.06: Etang de Biguglia to L’Ile Rousse:
Arriving in a pleasant 27ºC, we left
28.8.06:
An early morning walk provided some garden Sardinian Warblers, a singing Cirl Bunting, a flyover Fan-tailed Warbler, Spotless Starlings, a flock of twenty Serin and a profusion of Spotted Flycatcher (tyrrhenica). This species was amazingly abundant on the island throughout so won’t be mentioned again. In addition, we observed “Italian” Sparrow and the Corsican races of Blue Tit and Great Tit. A Lang`s Short-tailed Blue butterfly was a welcome lifer before we left the villa. Several Red Kite and some very large Buzzards (arrigonii) were noted as we entered the
29.8.06: Walk from
After howling winds all night, the morning got off to a better start with a pale-phase adult Eleonora`s Flacon in off the sea, being mobbed for a minute or so before leaving. We began a walk up towards the convent of St. Reparata, when we first noticed an interesting raptor, and realised that it was a Lesser Kestrel. Over the next two hours we observed at least one pair of these birds, and wondered, what with
30.8.06: Pointe de la Ravellata, Calvi:
31.8.06: Foret de Bonifato:
Two more Two-tailed Pasha butterflies flew past the car as we made our way inland from Calvi to start a walk in the forest. In a day’s walking, the island’s lack of overall bird numbers or species really kicked in - we recorded single Firecrest and a juvenile Crossbill (
1.9.06: Gorges de la Restonica:
The moment we cleared August, the birding picked up. Arriving at the Bergerie de Grotello at the head of the valley at
2.9.06: Reserve Naturelle de Scandola:
Today was notable for its volcanic formations and the wonderful sight of osprey nests sitting on top of them. The birds themselves would certainly have been appreciated, but the nests weren’t unattractive. A cracking Audouin’s Gull flew past, but the highlight was the sight of two Mouflon standing proud on a high precipice. For the Opsreys an earlier boat visit, from Calvi, would be needed and well worth it.
3.9.06: Etang d’Urbino; Calzarello & Bonifatio:
An good day’s birding today saw us move from our villa in the North to one in Bonifatio, via some wetlands on the East coast. A stop at Etang d’Urbino mid-way was the most productive, with a Greater Flamingo feeding in the shallows, a vast Great White Egret amid many Little Egret, a Marsh Harrier and a probable Whiskered Tern. We also encountered a field of Long-tailed Blue butterflies and a Clouded Yellow. At Calzarello, at the end of the D244, we immediately heard the amazing call of Bee-eaters and soon found five birds catching insects from a tree. Sadly these were nearly all juveniles but they heralded a mass migration of these colourful birds. A juvenile Balearic Woodchat Shrike shared the same tree. Arriving at our villa in the evening, a walk overlooking distant Bonifatio produced at least three long-range Alpine Swifts and a huge number of juvenile Cirl Buntings.
4.9.06: Capo Pertusadu, Villa near Bonifatio:
Together with Restonica, our only really excellent day’s birding. We arrived at the headland at the end of the D260 early morning to find a flock of at least sixty Bee-eaters migrating high overhead. As we walked towards the lighthouse, we got the bird of the holiday for us - a cracking dark-phase adult Red-footed Falcon flying right past us for about ten seconds. Out at the Pertusadu lighthouse, a range of different Sylvia were calling. The first one I finally saw was a Dartford Warbler, but soon we also picked up a female Subalpine Warbler while Dad had a male. Several juveniles complicated things, and several Sardinian Warblers popped up. Suddenly, an “all grey
5.9.06: Capo Pertusadu, Villa and Bonifatio:
We returned to the lighthouse this morning to gain stunning views of a female Marmora’s Warbler as it performed in the open for nearly twenty minutes. At least one Pallid Swift went over, and hundreds of Bee-eaters were calling, most too high up to see. Back at the villa, we noted Two-tailed Pasha and Swallowtail. In the evening at the fortifications at the very tip of Bonifatio, I eventually located a rather dopey juvenile Blue Rock Thrush as it sat on the battlement walls.
6.9.06: Ile de Lavezzi, Bonifatio, Villa & Plaza de St Amanza:
A boat trip to the Ile de Lavezzi was incredibly quiet with not a single shearwater seen, despite the fact that nearly four thousand Yelkouan Shearwater breed around the island. All we got was a juvenile Audouin`s Gull on a rock. Back in Bonifatio, we were lucky enough to locate a genuine Spanish Sparrow in the harbour car park amid a flock; despite lacking its full summer plumage, the breast streaking and richer head markings are characteristic. A Peregrine was also noted. Back at the Villa, over 100 Bee-eaters passed at
7.9.06: Bocca di a Testa, Figari and Villa :
A morning walk off the N196 produced a Southern White Admiral and Bee-eaters. After shopping in Figari we thought we might check out the airport area for Rock Sparrow. Repelled by the thought of arrest for suspected terrorist surveillance, we settled for birding a nearby orchard where we found a large number of Serin, Sardinian Warbler, Cirl Bunting and singles of Hoopoe and Hawfinch. At the Villa early evening, a cracking Firecrest frequented the trees and some particularly showy Bee-eaters caught insects over the wires.
8.9.06: The D60, the D368 near
After watching some settled Bee-eaters and Cirl Buntings at the Villa, we stopped on the D60 and walked into the maquis. The mammal highlight of the trip came when we startled a family of Wild Boar including a very vocal mother, which gave good views as they fortunately ran in the other direction. All four Sylvia warblers were calling in number but sadly we only stayed long enough to see a cracking male Marmora`s Warbler singing away right next to us and a female Black Redstart. A roadside stop near Ospedale produced a huge flock of ‘Corsican’ Crossbill, which are particularly stocky and with powerful bills. We also had another look at Corsican Citril Finches as they fed nearby. At Zonza we noted a Geranium Bronze and a Great Banded Grayling before moving onto the Col de Bavella, where butterflies included Swallowtail, many Cardinal, many Corsican Grayling, Southern Grayling and several Corsican Heath. Sadly the flight period of the Corsican Swallowtail ends in July, but this can be found on
9.9.06:Capo Pertusadu:
After a largely non-birding day, we decided to try the Cap once more in the hope of shearwaters. After two hours fruitless searching, I eventually picked out some mind-blowingly distant Cory`s Shearwaters passing by way out to sea.
10.9.06: The N200 at Aléria:
On the journey to the airport, a brief stop at the end of the N200 failed to produce any Rock Sparrows in the car park, a favoured spot for them, but a cracking Osprey flew past providing a good end to the holiday.
Introduction: This was a family holiday based largely in southern
Key Sites:
1. Briere Marshes
The entire area produced numerous sightings of such birds as Marsh Harrier, Black Kite and the inescapable escapee, the Sacred Ibis. Though this area is vast on the map, most of it is largely inaccessible except by boat.
At the Chausée Neuve Reserve, there is a small observatory at the end of the D127 from St Andre des Eaux. The main attraction is a huge colony of Whiskered Tern though no black tern were present, though these had probably dispersed. Spoonbill, Black-winged Stilt and Little Egret were nesting, as were Sacred Ibis in huge numbers.
The Reserve Naturelle at Rozé is just off the D50. Common breeding birds were Yellow Wagtail, Fan-tailed Warbler. Purple Heron breed far out in the reeds, affording distant flight views, but we achieved stunning views of Night Heron here. White Stork was seen, and Little Ringed Plover breed on the scrapes. Obviously in May-June, specialities such as Bluethroat will be easier to see.
Better than both of these sites put together was one we found ourselves - a tract of marshland just east of the
2. Golfe du Morbihan:
The official reserve at the Golfe is the Marais de Sene just south of Vannes, accessed off the D779, follow signposts to Sene. Again, late summer is not particularly productive but good numbers of nesting Avocets and Black-winged Stilts were present, as were Fan-tailed and Dartford Warblers. Since Geoff’s 2004 trip report, it might be useful to add that neither Bee-eater nor Roseate Tern breed in the Golfe anymore, but Larmor-Baden is an excellent passage site for the latter, with up to 50 present throughout August. We did not visit the Golfe extensively, but the Point de Penvins is a good site for Kentish Plover; we easily found them on the mudflats just N of the church.
3. Foret de Gavre & Nantes-Brest Canal:
This excellent forest is a fantastic site for woodpeckers - but not in July. Though Black and Middle-spotted were heard, neither were seen. There are numerous access points best mentioned in Geoff’s report, but an excellent walk is the Allée Forestière de la Chausée, the track running south from the Carrefour de la Belle Etoile in the forest centre. This produced good numbers of Crested Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and Bonelli’s Warbler and many calling woodpeckers. Clearings along the Route Forestière de Carheil from the D164 produced displaying Honey Buzzards, with calling
Other Sites:
The saltpans at Guérande will produce huge numbers of Avocet and smaller numbers of Black-winged Stilt, with passage waders in July. This is also an excellent site for Bluethroat, though again these are very elusive in July. As usual, we only scratched the surface on our visit, and would be glad to hear from anyone else visiting the region.
Daily Summaries:
30.6.06 : Birding around
A quiet day’s birding. In coastal fields at Bernière-sur-Mer, a Fan-tailed Warbler was in flight over crops, while some stops along the D83 near Fontaine-Henry produced a Short-toed Treecreeper and calling Turtle Dove. At the abbey of Thaon, we found a family of Marsh Tit, singing Nightingale and a pale-phase male Honey Buzzard. The afternoon was quiet too, with a stop at the River Dives on the D78 producing Marsh Harrier and more surprisingly, a single White Stork. A pair of Serins at the Pegasus Bridge Café finished the day.
1.7.06 :
Our stop en-route today was the Foret de Rennes. We spent three hours in an area off the D358 near some pools. Birding was appalling in the afternoon sunshine, but butterflies were excellent, with huge numbers of White Admiral and smaller numbers of Silver-washed Fritillary and Large Chequered Skipper, as well as a single Purple Emperor. Wood Warbler, Short-toed Treecreeper and Marsh Tit were seen. Normally French motorway journeys are made interesting by raptor sightings. Today, it was a Purple Heron flying over the N137 S of Rennes that provided the interest. We arrived at St Lyphard, Briere Marshes, early evening. A pre-dinner walk from the hotel produced a good range of butterflies including four Purple Hairstreak, a Purple Emperor, White Admiral and several each of Large Chequered and Silver-spotted Skipper. We soon came upon two Sacred Ibis. A Honey Buzzard overhead was presumably passing through, and there were four each of Marsh Harrier and Black Kite. Over the reed beds, we saw our only decent Purple Heron of the holiday, which gave excellent flight views. Soon, an adult Night Heron came flying in but a probable Little Bittern, flying low over the reeds, was too brief for a certain ID.
2.7.06 : Briere Marshes :
We left the hotel before
3.7.06 : Briere & Golfe du Morbihan :
This morning’s early morning start was hampered by light rain, and the only bird seen was a Night Heron, though both Bearded Tit and Savi`s Warbler were heard. Flocks of Sacred Ibis were an impressive sight overhead, and we enjoyed views of both Coypu and a more distant Otter. We reached the Marais de Sene Reserve at lunchtime, where we wondered if the combination of Turtle Dove and Cirl Bunting on the same wire would still be possible in
4.7.06 : Briere Marshes & Foret de Gavre :
The same morning walk provided excellent views of Night Heron again and prolonged if distant views of a territorial Bluethroat. Cetti`s Warbler joined Savi`s on the growing “heard” list, but several Coypu were a bit less subtle as they crashed across the path. The Foret de Gavre is a brilliant place filled with clear, well-marked paths. We walked south of the central crossroads, soon picking up families of Crested Tit which gave stunning views. Short-toed Treecreepers were quite common and Marsh Tit showed. Hours later, several woodpeckers had called, including at least one Middle-spotted and a Black Woodpecker, but neither showed. Much later in the walk, a pair of Bonelli`s Warbler was a personal highlight but a Spotted Flycatcher was good to see as well. A further stop along the Route Forestière de Carheil produced a brief Dartford Warbler, calling Melodious Warbler and Middle-spotted Woodpecker, and two Large Tortoiseshell around the pines. In the evening back at St Lyphard, we enjoyed excellent views of some quite cuddly Nutria - though initially mistaking them for beavers!
5.7.06 : Guérande, Foret de Gavre and Nantes-Brest Canal :
After a brilliant morning’s visit to Guérande, we had a brief look at the saltpans, where hundreds of Avocets outnumbered the less common Black-winged Stilt (two) and Ruff (one). It was too late for the Bluethroats in the scorching heat, so we moved on to the Foret de Gavre. Stopping at the Rond Point de Carheil off the D164, a pair of Honey Buzzard gave a brilliant aerial display, but another stop in a clearing produced the same “heard” ticks as yesterday. Giving up, we moved off the Guenrouet. As soon as we got out of the car, we heard at least two Golden Oriole calling from the poplars beside the Nantes-Brest canal, but the density of these trees made viewing them impossible. A walk south along the canal produced numerous Turtle Doves and calling Hoopoe. It was looking like a washout when a Golden Oriole suddenly fluted right next to us, and two birds shot away overhead. Half an hour later we were still struggling to see any, with at least six birds calling to each other from trees across the canal. Suddenly, a static gleam of yellow showed in an oak and there it was - a stunning male oriole sitting in the open, soon followed by up to five others - another male, two females and two juveniles. What a bird - best till last!
France - La Brenne & Pyrenees : August 2005
Introduction: Having had our
Logistics: We took a camper van across to the continent, travelling down and staying in out of the way places. Accomodation for La Brenne is easily found at Mézières-en-Brenne whilst for a good exploration of the French Pyrenees, accommodation around the
Key Sites:
Parc Regionale de la Brenne:
All areas in the park are likely to produce such species as Whiskered Tern, Purple Heron, Cattle & Great Egrets and Osprey in August in addition to commoner farmland species, but we found the following sites the most productive:
· Etang de Gabrière: A large lake with much potential – notable for its Night Heron roost; birds fly over the hotel situated beside the lake each dusk. Good for egrets and herons and a breeding site for Eurasian Bittern.
· La Chérine: A designated nature reserve with a large Purple Heron colony which may be viewed on request from a locked hide; ask at the information desk. Pond Tortoise are easy to see here and may be observed around the information centre.
· Etange de Bellebouche: A large, popular lake whose surrounding woodland provides Hoopoe, Short-toed Treecreeper and woodpeckers. Another Purple Heron colony exists here, birds are most active at dawn. A large population of Long-eared Owls are apparently evident here in early summer.
· Etange de Blizon: A large egret roost of all three species can be seen here as well as other heron species and especially large numbers of Whiskered Tern.
· Foret Lacosme: To the east of the main body of lakes, a good site for Black Woodpecker though these were elusive in August.
French Pyrenées:
Griffon Vulture are evident throughout, and in August passage of Short-toed Eagle and Honey Buzzard will be evident anywhere, as will common Alpine species such as Alpine Chough, Water Pipit, Red Kite and Crag Martin. Here are some sites which offer a good chance of some Pyrenean specialities:
·
· Vallée d’Ossau: The site for Lammergeier sightings with birds observed throughout its length. Golden Eagles hold territory on the steep rocky outcrops to the right of the valley. Rock Bunting favour the scrubby area at the entrance to the valley. Excellent for butterflies even in late Aug, with Scarce Copper, Mountain Ringlet, Camberwell Beauty, Rock Grayling and Escher’s Blue.
· Barrage de Gloriettes: Sitauted in the
Daily Summaries:
Day 1: La Brenne:
We drove for most of the day towards Mezieres-en-Brenne in the Indre region and that evening set out into the Brenne for our meal, stopping en-route at our first étang, Gabrieu. Almost immediately we were greeted with four Cattle Egrets, obviously part of a post breeding flock. A Black-necked Grebe, a breeding speciality of these lakes, was on the water and best of all were the fishing Whiskered Terns hovering brilliant close to us revealing their short tails, grey belly and contrasting white cheek. A Marsh Harrier was an expected addition to the list. That evening we dined overlooking the Étang Gabriére, where even as we ate, an Osprey flew in to take a fish and, as dusk settled over the lake, Night Herons came flying in to roost, two juveniles circling the restaurant right over our heads before moving off.
Day 2: La Brenne:
In overcast weather we arrived at the Chérine reserve, where Cirl Buntings sang from wires and Fan-tailed Warblers called their “Zzit” from overhead. At the visitor centre, an incredible diminutive European Pond Tortoise was found sitting on a dried up bank. The drought has affected the water life of the Brenne much this year. We moved onto the hide, where some impatient scanning of the many Grey Herons almost immediately yielded a striking Purple Heron, sitting plumb in the open at the edge of a reed bed. The bird gave a great fishing display before flying off: the incredible snake like neck, colouring and plumes make this a wonderful creature to observe: a long-awaited lifer and a stunning species. We moved onto the Étang de Beauregard. A short walk showed passage in full swing; a post-breeding flock of Black-winged Stilts and huge numbers of Whiskered Terns including many young birds. Butterflies were beginning to emerge and we were able to photograph Great-Banded Grayling, Sooty Copper and Short-tailed Blue. We finished the day at a campsite on the Étang de Bellebouche.
Day 3: La Brenne:
The following morning we left the van for a pre-breakfast walk. The woods held another lifer – Short-toed Treecreeper, which finally uttered a call which gave it away. Large numbers of Pied Flycatchers were moving through, while three Hoopoes were an unexpected bonus here. A Purple Heron, as if to prove its status as an easily found bird, flew in from the nearby heronry to start fishing. We passed the Étang de Gabriére again towards lunchtime, picking up another Osprey and, totally unexpectedly, a rather early flock of Great White Egrets, presumably from