Ben Macdonald Birding

Southern Morocco: 2nd - 8th January 2007

Introduction: This much anticipated week in one of the Western Palaearctic`s most bird-rich countries was only ever going to provide a brief glance at its range of avifauna, but in a week we seen a good range of southern Moroccan species including some of the region`s best specialities. Though primarily a cultural holiday, we were allowed birding time thanks to our fantastic guide Said, who has in the past acted as guide for many tour companies, and who arguably knows more about where to find birds in this country than anyone alive. Culturally, Taroudant, and Morocco as a whole, is an assault on the Western senses and a must for those who want see the vibrancy of the third world.

Logistics:We were based at Taroudant, an hour inland from Agadir, and did daily excursions by car into the surrounding area. A driver is nearly essential to reach many key sites as signposts are virtually non-existent and the Moroccan way of driving demands a whole different psychology. Taxis can easily be hired from towns. Due to the nomadic nature of many species here, especially raptors, birding is done by driving and pulling over once something is sighted. We were too early for many specialities and were told that March is the premier birding month in Morocco. The weather in January is fantastic, permitting great photography and digiscoping.

Key Sites:

Any area of semi-desert in the Taroudant-Agadir area will offer good chances of Lanner, Barbary Falcon and the beautiful Black-winged Kite as well as common species such as White Stork, Cattle Egret, Southern Grey Shrike, Crested Lark and Moussier`s Redstart, whilst towns will provide many Common Bulbul and House Bunting.

1. Souss Massa National Park : One of the few sites we visited thoroughly, the massa has an amazing amount of species. Our first stop in the Southern Massa south of the park boundary produced many Plain Martin and the elusive Black-crowned Tchagra. The track between the Agadir-Tarfaya road and the reserve was very productive, notably for Barbary Partridge, Slender-billed Gull and the Glossy Ibis colony of fifty birds, which can be viewed through dense foliage on the left of the track that runs to the reserve. Spanish Terrapins can also be observed basking here. The National Park proper is great. Greater Flamingo and five to seven Marbled Duck can be observed from the picnic site at the car park. Glossy Ibis feed out on the inland estuary with a good range of waders including Black-winged Stilt. Double figures of Audouin�s Gull can be seen with the loafing flocks. Cranes regularly pass through.

2. Oued Sous: Another excellent wetland site near Agadir which can provide excellent birding from a few roadside stops. Large waterbirds include Greater Flamingo and Spoonbill and there is a range of waders. Birds in the sueda are varied and in addition to Black-crowned Tchagra included, on our visit, Bluethroat and Spectacled Warbler. Egyptian Mongoose can be seen crossing the tracks with luck and Greenish Black-Tip butterflies occur.

3. Tamri: Bald Ibis is the reason birders come here: the birds commute from their cliff colony to the North to feed on the beach here in varying numbers. The colony now numbers over two hundred birds. Osprey and Audouin`s Gull are likely here.

4. The Atlas Mountains: Home to a vast range of birds. In our tiny glance at them we found the area between the Sous Valley and the Tizi-n-Test pass good for Black Wheatear, Barbary Partridge Barbary Falcon and Rock Bunting.


Daily Summaries:

2.1.07: Taroudant:
Waking up after flying in the night before, a brief glance from the window provided our first vocal Common Bulbuls and several colourful House Buntings in addition to ticks of White Stork and Cattle Egret. Outside the Palais Salem where we spent just one night we saw our only Lesser Kestrel of the week high overhead. The Palais gardens provided hundreds of Common Bulbul as well as Blackcap. We arrived at our guesthouse at 2pm and a scan from the roof soon picked up a very distant falcon that could have been Lanner or Barbary. It was fantastic when the bird flew in close with a Spotless Starling in its talons before flying ten feet overhead - a Lanner Falcon. Later in the evening, a flock of fifteen Little Swift started catching flies overhead. Flocks of Cattle Egret
flew overhead to roost.

3.1.07: Taroudant & the Anti-Atlas:
One of the best birds of the holiday came just outside of the town when Said pulled over for a stunning adult Black-winged Kite
- one of our most hoped for species, it was even better in realoty than we could have imagined with its fierce red eyes in a white face. There were also Crested Lark and, close-by, a Southern Grey Shrike. We drove high into the Anti-Atlas where we were shown the harshness of life for the parched communities out there. We noted our first Moussier`s Redstart on the descent, another striking species. The Palm Oasis at which we spent lunchtime was hot and quiet, with calling Serin and a single Spanish Sparrow seen in flight. A Southern Grey Shrike caught flies next to the bus, and both Moussier`s and Black Redstart were noted at a nearby Kasbah. Back at Taroudant in the evening, a mind-blowingly distant raptor was eventually identified as a Long-legged Buzzard.

5.1.07: The Sous Valley to the Tizi-n-Test Pass, Atlas Mountains:
Heading out of Taroudant, we had soon passed another two Black-winged Kites on telegraph wires. Our first stop was for a Peregrine Falcon which surprised us all in this habitat. Next, Said called another kite but on stopping we found it to be a pinkish-tinted falcon like a small peregrine - a Barbary Falcon, which gave good views overhead. Soon we began to climb into the Atlas and in addition to the complimentary Southern Grey Shrikes placed on every other wire, we soon picked up a covey of Barbary Partridge on the rocky slopes. We noted Moussier`s Redstart on the climb, followed by a cracking male Rock Bunting. The best bird came during a higher stop in the form of a striking male Black Wheatear. After taking lunch at the Tizi-n-Test pass restaurant, we started a walk down into the valley with a guide from a local village. We soon picked up another Barbary Falcon and more Black Wheatears. After taking mint tea in the guide`s home, yet another example of the amazing Moroccan hospitality and warmth, we climbed out of the valley where we noted the Moroccan race of Crossbill and Bath White butterfly.

6.1.07: Taroudant to the Souss Massa National Park:
A rooftop scan before we left the guesthouse provided a very close Barbary Falcon and a more distant Lanner Falcon. En-route I frustratingly missed a Laughing Dove that Said called. We saw repeats of many species and glimpsed a Long-legged Buzzard just south of Agadir. Arriving at a wetland area to the south of the park, we immediately heard Cetti�s Warbler and saw Fan-tailed Warbler. Plain Martins flew overhead and were surprisingly joined by a few Crag Martins as well as some Swallows. Soon Dad had found a stunning male Black-crowned Tchagra perched atop a wall; it showed extremely well, flicking its tail for some minutes before diving into cover. In fields nearby a amazingly confiding Squacco Heron was catching worms and we noted another Moussier`s Redstart. Some tame Cattle Egrets also entertained. We now headed towards the actual national park across a semi-desert terrain adjacent to the delta. A stop for Moussier`s Redstart also provided five Slender-billed Gulls as they flew past on tern-like wings. A second stop was for the Glossy Ibis colony. Initially hard to see, all fifty birds were soon flushed by a passing Marsh Harrier and looked resplendent as the purple and green sheen on their wings caught the sun. Three Spanish Terrapins basked in the sun and another Black-crowned Tchagra popped up. At a third stop a little further on, a showy male Blue Rock Thrush. At the reserve car park, Greater Flamingo entertained whilst seven Marbled Duck, one of the reserves most important and rare species, looked small and brown in the heat haze. Walking along the estuary we encountered several Sardinian Warbler. Feeding with the Glossy Ibis which had moved out from the colony were a large flock of Black-winged Stilt along with a few British waders such as Spotted Redshank, Bar-tailed Godwit and Common Sandpiper. Looking back at the Greater Flamingo flock, it took two looks to realise that they had been joined by thirteen Common Crane, and the combination of the two was a memorable sight. Out to sea, Gannet and Sandwich Terns were seen.

8.1.07: Taroudant to Oued Sous, to Tamri:
 In the morning I took the chance to photograph our local friendly House Bunting before we set off towards Oued Sous. En-route we noted more of the usual species plus a Black-winged Kite which flew right over the car. Arriving the Oued Souss the most striking sight was that of over one hundred Greater Flamingo on the pans, along with four Black-winged Stilt and a Grey Plover. A second stop a little downstream added at least five Spoonbill, whilst an elusive Black-crowned Tchagra moved through the vegetation. Suddenly everything happened at once, with Moussier`s Redstarts popping up, followed by another bird which jumped into the scope: a pristine Bluethroat. It proceeded to sing right in front of us for a minute before moving off. As I scanned to relocate it, a small, pinkish and rufous warbler resembling a small Whitethroat popped up and I briefly registered it as my first Spectacled Warbler whilst an otter-like Egyptian Mongoose ran past us and a Greenish Black-Tip flew over. As we left, ten Slender-billed Gulls flew past and, after an hour and a half`s drive through some eerily quiet, uninhabited coastal desert, we eventually reached Tamri. A ten minute scan of the estuary immediately yielded a fishing Osprey and twelve Audouin`s Gull whilst a pair of Southern Grey Shrike caught flies close-by. Our target bird was obviously feeding elsewhere so we sat down for lunch, eyes fixed on the distant spot where they come down to feed. Then suddenly, about ten feet to our left, three Bald Ibis came sailing in to land on the cliffs right beside us. In the scope we were, for five minutes, able to enjoy this amazingly strange-looking, charismatic species, of which less than five hundred remain in the world today. It even allowed a photograph before moving off along the coast and out of sight. Another great end to a holiday, though we will certainly be returning here in the future.

Corsica:  27th August - 10th September 2006

 

Introduction: Corsica is principally an island of stunning scenery but few birds. Quality, specialist birds exist but require good site knowledge and the vast majority of sightings were made early morning or evening time. Over two weeks we connected with nearly all our target species, but be prepared for long, bird-less hours in between, especially in late summer. Flora aside, Corsica is an unbelievable place and a photographic paradise.

 

Logistics: Driving in Corsica takes much more time than maps suggest, so it is much less feasible to “site-hop” than on other Mediterranean islands due to the nature of the roads. We used the Michelin 1:150,000 mapping series, though a slightly smaller scale would have been better-suited. Randonées are not well-marked: despite the GR20 being one of Europe’s best-known trails, we suspect most walkers make it up as they go along.

 

Key Sites:

 

There are many potentially good sites on the island, but here are those which we found most productive, or which offer good chances of the island’s specialities. Common avifauna is limited, but abundant island birds of interest to the British birder include Red Kite, Sardinian Warbler, Hooded Crow, Spotless Starling and Serin.

 

1. Gorges de la Restonica :

 

In our opinion the number one site for mountain species, with a backdrop of breath-taking scenery. Access is off the N193 at Corte; follow signs for Restonica and take the D623 up the valley. From top to bottom:

·          Lac de Capitello at 1700m is the number one site on the island for Alpine Accentor in the spring. These were not present on our trip but tame flocks of Corsican Citril Finch and Alpine Chough were observed. Note that two hard-going climbs are required.

·          Berg. de Grotello is the furthest point to be reached by car and probably one of the two best sites on the island for mountain raptors. Both Golden Eagle and Lammergeier were seen here in the evening, after the heat of the day.

·          Tuani is a tiny camping-restaurant complex approximately half-way up the valley, on your left if you are going up. The mature Corsican Pines around the river and bridge hold at least two pairs of Corsican Nuthatch, which were extremely active in the evening.

 

2. Asco Valley:

 

Access is via the long and tortuous D147 off the N197, just N of Ponte Leccia. Allow at least 1½ hours to reach the top of the valley.

·          Haut-Asco at the head of the valley is another traditional site for both endemics. We encountered several Corsican Nuthatch by walking straight up the valley for 200m from the car park to where you reach the most mature pines. Raptors are likely here.

·          6km below Haut Asco is a very narrow river bridge. Park up and look up the valley to an obvious rock pinnacle, which local birders inform us is a regular perch for Lammergeier. Almost any stop within the valley is guaranteed to produce Crag Martin. Doubtless a number of other mountain species could be seen in the valley in Spring.

·          The orchards and farmland within a few miles of the N197 hold a good number of butterflies including Cardinal and Swallowtail.

 

3. Etang de Biguglia:

 

Rather disappointing on our visit, though Audouin’s Gull should be seen amid the gull flock at the north end of the lake, best viewed from the D107 just N of La Marana. Fan-tailed Warbler was common. Moustached Warbler is a regular visitor here though generally later in the year. A huge lake, with great potential for birds on passage.

 

4. Etang d’Urbino

 

One of a series of promising lakes around Aleria on the east coast. Access is via an un-mapped road which leads down the central peninsula, signposted off the N198. This is probably the best site for large waterbirds in Corsica, with Greater Flamingo on passage and good numbers of egrets.

 

5. Col de Bavella

 

Another site for mountain birdlife, though during our visit we found this an excellent site for endemic butterfly species, with good numbers of Corsican Heath and Corsican Grayling as well as Cardinal, Southern Grayling and “Mediterranean” Wall Brown (L.m. paramagaera). The Corsican race of Crossbill was abundant here.

  

6. The Bonifacio Area

 

By far the most exciting birding area on the island, especially as Mediterranean migration was underway at this time. A number of sites, all easily accessible, offer good birding with a good variety of species. Our visit coincided with an amazing movement of Bee-eaters, with up to 500 passing over our villa daily. Other highlights include the full range of Sylvia warblers and daily sightings of the spectacular Two-tailed Pasha butterfly. In order of priority:

 

·          The Pertusadu Lighthouse is accessed off the D58 out of Bonifacio. Leaving the town, the road forks - take the D260 and continue to park at the customs building on the cliff. Walk across the scrub to the lighthouse. Dartford, Subalpine and Marmora’s Warblers all occur, especially around the lighthouse itself. Alpine and Pallid Swifts are possible overhead, while other migrants could include Red-footed or Eleonora’s Falcons with Cory’s Shearwater offshore.

·          The D60 from the N196 runs through the maquis and is an excellent place to find the Sylvia species. We had several of each calling, and stunning views of at least one male Marmora’s Warbler. Woodlark is also present here. Park opposite the two gas cylinders about 1500m from the N196 and walk across the scrub on your left.

·          Bonifacio itself is an excellent site. Blue Rock Thrush nest on the battlement walls and Rock Sparrow are present in the citadel itself, though we only heard them. Spanish Sparrow are present in small numbers in the gardens of the harbour car park and can be easily picked out from the local Italian jobs.

 

Daily Summaries:

 

27.8.06: Etang de Biguglia to L’Ile Rousse:

Arriving in a pleasant 27ºC, we left Bastia Airport and drove towards Etang de Biguglia, noting our first Red Kites, Hooded Crows and several flocks of Spotless Starling. Finding “clear” areas to observe the lake was difficult, but a stop at Pineto produced song-flighting Fan-tailed Warbler & calling Cetti`s Warbler, but the lake itself only yielded a single Black-necked Grebe in summer moult, Little Egret, Yellow-legged Gull, and a distant view of the Corsican race of Sparrowhawk (wolterstorffi). We drove up the D107, stopping north of La Marana, where after a little searching we found a smart adult Audouin`s Gull amid the large numbers of other gulls. The drive to Ile Rousse was uneventful, the skies clear of the usual range of raptors you might expect in a foreign country. On arrival at our villa in Monticello, we observed several more Red Kite and a brief Sardinian Warbler. In the evening, Dad was gently menaced by a Hummingbird Hawk-moth as it fed close to his ears.

 

28.8.06: Monticello and Asco Valley:

An early morning walk provided some garden Sardinian Warblers, a singing Cirl Bunting, a flyover Fan-tailed Warbler, Spotless Starlings, a flock of twenty Serin and a profusion of Spotted Flycatcher (tyrrhenica). This species was amazingly abundant on the island throughout so won’t be mentioned again. In addition, we observed “Italian” Sparrow and the Corsican races of Blue Tit and Great Tit. A Lang`s Short-tailed Blue butterfly was a welcome lifer before we left the villa. Several Red Kite and some very large Buzzards (arrigonii) were noted as we entered the Asco Valley. A stop approximately 3km into the valley in arid farmland produced a juvenile Red-backed Shrike, Ravens and a frustrating fly-over Corsican Citril Finch, which has a diagnostic one-note flight call and is canary yellow-green when seen from below. Butterflies were well-represented with a colony of impressive Cardinal, Green-underside Blue, Silver-studded Blue and Swallowtail. The spectacular scenery within the narrow gorge provided only Crag Martins and our first Corsican Grayling butterfly despite numerous stops, and it was 15:00 when we eventually reached Haut Asco. A walk up towards the most ancient Corsican pines immediately produced calling Corsican Nuthatch (a very distinctive call like a whistle being blown in slow motion) but views were terrible against the sun and we soon had to leave the site. We also recorded the local race of Great-spotted Woodpecker (parroti).

 

29.8.06: Walk from Monticello to St. Reparata to St Antonino:

After howling winds all night, the morning got off to a better start with a pale-phase adult Eleonora`s Flacon in off the sea, being mobbed for a minute or so before leaving. We began a walk up towards the convent of St. Reparata, when we first noticed an interesting raptor, and realised that it was a Lesser Kestrel. Over the next two hours we observed at least one pair of these birds, and wondered, what with Corsica’s lack of birders, whether they could have been an overlooked breeding pair. They made sorties from suitable ruined buildings, catching insects on the wing with great agility. A Swallowtail showed well here:

 

30.8.06: Pointe de la Ravellata, Calvi:

 A brief Two-tailed Pasha flew past the car here, but otherwise quiet.

 

31.8.06: Foret de Bonifato:

Two more Two-tailed Pasha butterflies flew past the car as we made our way inland from Calvi to start a walk in the forest. In a day’s walking, the island’s lack of overall bird numbers or species really kicked in - we recorded single Firecrest and a juvenile Crossbill (corsicana). Singles of Corsican Grayling and the attractive Southern Grayling were also seen. The theft of my beloved Nikon Coolpix 990 didn’t improve the day.

 

1.9.06: Gorges de la Restonica:            

The moment we cleared August, the birding picked up. Arriving at the Bergerie de Grotello at the head of the valley at 11:00, we soon found a very vocal “Corsican” Wren. At the Lac de Melo, thousands of Hirundines including both Crag Martins were on the wing, and a Wheatear was also noted. Having regained my breath I got up to the Lac de Capitello in under half an hour, where the birding immediately picked up, with five Alpine Choughs taking bread a few feet away. Best of all were a cracking flock of very confiding Corsican Citril Finches, thirty in all. At 6pm, scanning for raptors at the car park finally paid off when a cracking sub-adult Golden Eagle glided down the mountainside. Sadly, I had just picked up the distant but unmistakable, drooping silhouette of a Lammergeier when it disappeared from view. Our first stop  for nuthatch drew a blank, but two adult Short-toed Eagles passing overhead were good to see. We then pulled in at Tuani further down the valley and immediately heard, then saw, a Corsican Nuthatch frequenting the very tops of the trees. It soon became more active and made flycatcher-like forays to a favoured cone. Soon it was joined by a female and, over the next half hour, the pair gave stunning views to five metres, commuting from the pines to a dead tree where they appeared to store the seeds they had extracted. A very attractive bird.

 

2.9.06: Reserve Naturelle de Scandola:

Today was notable for its volcanic formations and the wonderful sight of osprey nests sitting on top of them. The birds themselves would certainly have been appreciated, but the nests weren’t unattractive. A cracking Audouin’s Gull flew past, but the highlight was the sight of two Mouflon standing proud on a high precipice. For the Opsreys an earlier boat visit, from Calvi, would be needed and well worth it.

 

3.9.06: Etang d’Urbino; Calzarello & Bonifatio:

An good day’s birding today saw us move from our villa in the North to one in Bonifatio, via some wetlands on the East coast. A stop at Etang d’Urbino mid-way was the most productive, with a Greater Flamingo feeding in the shallows, a vast Great White Egret amid many Little Egret, a Marsh Harrier and a probable Whiskered Tern. We also encountered a field of Long-tailed Blue butterflies and a Clouded Yellow. At Calzarello, at the end of the D244, we immediately heard the amazing call of Bee-eaters and soon found five birds catching insects from a tree. Sadly these were nearly all juveniles but they heralded a mass migration of these colourful birds. A juvenile Balearic Woodchat Shrike shared the same tree. Arriving at our villa in the evening, a walk overlooking distant Bonifatio produced at least three long-range Alpine Swifts and a huge number of juvenile Cirl Buntings.

 

4.9.06: Capo Pertusadu, Villa near Bonifatio:

Together with Restonica, our only really excellent day’s birding. We arrived at the headland at the end of the D260 early morning to find a flock of at least sixty Bee-eaters migrating high overhead. As we walked towards the lighthouse, we got the bird of the holiday for us - a cracking dark-phase adult Red-footed Falcon flying right past us for about ten seconds. Out at the Pertusadu lighthouse, a range of different Sylvia were calling. The first one I finally saw was a Dartford Warbler, but soon we also picked up a female Subalpine Warbler while Dad had a male. Several juveniles complicated things, and several Sardinian Warblers popped up. Suddenly, an “all grey Dartford” popped up in the scope and I just realised I had a Marmora`s Warbler when it went down. Returning satisfied to the car, we didn’t get far before a territorial male Two-tailed Pasha soon asserted his presence, allowing some good photo opportunities. The Villa provided some typical Med birds this afternoon, the best one being a class Hoopoe that flapped slowly down the adjoining road after being startled, and two Pallid Swifts over the pool, in the company of several flocks of Bee-eater. After dusk in Bonifatio, Alpine Swifts could be heard calling high over the old barracks but were too high to see.

 

5.9.06: Capo Pertusadu, Villa and Bonifatio:

We returned to the lighthouse this morning to gain stunning views of a female Marmora’s Warbler as it performed in the open for nearly twenty minutes. At least one Pallid Swift went over, and hundreds of Bee-eaters were calling, most too high up to see. Back at the villa, we noted Two-tailed Pasha and Swallowtail. In the evening at the fortifications at the very tip of Bonifatio, I eventually located a rather dopey juvenile Blue Rock Thrush as it sat on the battlement walls.

 

6.9.06: Ile de Lavezzi, Bonifatio, Villa & Plaza de St Amanza:

A boat trip to the Ile de Lavezzi was incredibly quiet with not a single shearwater seen, despite the fact that nearly four thousand Yelkouan Shearwater breed around the island. All we got was a juvenile Audouin`s Gull on a rock. Back in Bonifatio, we were lucky enough to locate a genuine Spanish Sparrow in the harbour car park amid a flock; despite lacking its full summer plumage, the breast streaking and richer head markings are characteristic. A Peregrine was also noted. Back at the Villa, over 100 Bee-eaters passed at 10:30, with the next highest count of eighty over the pool at 15:00 and many others flocks, often totally fifty birds each. In the evening at Plaza St. Amanza off the D58, a cracking Eleonora`s Falcon came flying right overhead on extraordinarily fast wingbeats.

 

7.9.06: Bocca di a Testa, Figari and Villa              :

A morning walk off the N196 produced a Southern White Admiral and Bee-eaters. After shopping in Figari we thought we might check out the airport area for Rock Sparrow. Repelled by the thought of arrest for suspected terrorist surveillance, we settled for birding a nearby orchard where we found a large number of Serin, Sardinian Warbler, Cirl Bunting and singles of Hoopoe and Hawfinch. At the Villa early evening, a cracking Firecrest frequented the trees and some particularly showy Bee-eaters caught insects over the wires. 

 

8.9.06: The D60, the D368 near Ospedale, Col de Bavella, Villa:

After watching some settled Bee-eaters and Cirl Buntings at the Villa, we stopped on the D60 and walked into the maquis. The mammal highlight of the trip came when we startled a family of Wild Boar including a very vocal mother, which gave good views as they fortunately ran in the other direction. All four Sylvia warblers were calling in number but sadly we only stayed long enough to see a cracking male Marmora`s Warbler singing away right next to us and a female Black Redstart. A roadside stop near Ospedale produced a huge flock of ‘Corsican’ Crossbill, which are particularly stocky and with powerful bills. We also had another look at Corsican Citril Finches as they fed nearby. At Zonza we noted a Geranium Bronze and a Great Banded Grayling before moving onto the Col de Bavella, where butterflies included Swallowtail, many Cardinal, many Corsican Grayling, Southern Grayling and several Corsican Heath. Sadly the flight period of the Corsican Swallowtail ends in July, but this can be found on Sardinia. Back at the villa we observed a single flock of 150 Bee-eaters, nearly all juveniles, and heard our first Scops Owl of the holiday as it called half-heartedly near the pool.

 

9.9.06:Capo Pertusadu:

After a largely non-birding day, we decided to try the Cap once more in the hope of shearwaters. After two hours fruitless searching, I eventually picked out some mind-blowingly distant Cory`s Shearwaters passing by way out to sea.

 

10.9.06: The N200 at Aléria:

On the journey to the airport, a brief stop at the end of the N200 failed to produce any Rock Sparrows in the car park, a favoured spot for them, but a cracking Osprey flew past providing a good end to the holiday.

 

Northern France: 30th June – 7th July 2006

 

Introduction: This was a family holiday based largely in southern Brittany around the Briere. Considering most birding was done on hot July afternoons, we found most of the area’s species that you would expect to see at this time of year and some good butterflies. Many thanks to Geoff Dicker for his excellent 2004 trip report from the area, at www.surfbirds.com. The Michelin 1cm: 2km mapping series was also invaluable.

 

Key Sites:

 

1. Briere Marshes

 

The entire area produced numerous sightings of such birds as Marsh Harrier, Black Kite and the inescapable escapee, the Sacred Ibis. Though this area is vast on the map, most of it is largely inaccessible except by boat.

 

At the Chausée Neuve Reserve, there is a small observatory at the end of the D127 from St Andre des Eaux. The main attraction is a huge colony of Whiskered Tern though no black tern were present, though these had probably dispersed. Spoonbill, Black-winged Stilt and Little Egret were nesting, as were Sacred Ibis in huge numbers.

 

The Reserve Naturelle at Rozé is just off the D50. Common breeding birds were Yellow Wagtail, Fan-tailed Warbler. Purple Heron breed far out in the reeds, affording distant flight views, but we achieved stunning views of Night Heron here. White Stork was seen, and Little Ringed Plover breed on the scrapes. Obviously in May-June, specialities such as Bluethroat will be easier to see.

 

Better than both of these sites put together was one we found ourselves - a tract of marshland just east of the village of St Lyphard.  Access is off the D47, opposite the Chaumières-du-Lac Hotel. Walk towards the poplars and turn left along a narrow grass lane to reach a wooden bridge. You can walk left or right alongside the marshes. Dawn and dusk were very productive, with watches from 6-8am producing Bluethroats, Savi’s Warblers, Bearded Tit, Night Heron and Spoonbill. Evening watches over the reedbeds produced many Night Herons, Purple Heron, Little Bittern and many egrets all flying to roost. Mammals in this area included Coypu, Nutria and Otter.

 

2. Golfe du Morbihan:

 

The official reserve at the Golfe is the Marais de Sene just south of Vannes, accessed off the D779, follow signposts to Sene. Again, late summer is not particularly productive but good numbers of nesting Avocets and Black-winged Stilts were present, as were Fan-tailed and Dartford Warblers. Since Geoff’s 2004 trip report, it might be useful to add that neither Bee-eater nor Roseate Tern breed in the Golfe anymore, but Larmor-Baden is an excellent passage site for the latter, with up to 50 present throughout August. We did not visit the Golfe extensively, but the Point de Penvins is a good site for Kentish Plover; we easily found them on the mudflats just N of the church.

 

3. Foret de Gavre & Nantes-Brest Canal:

 

This excellent forest is a fantastic site for woodpeckers - but not in July. Though Black and Middle-spotted were heard, neither were seen. There are numerous access points best mentioned in Geoff’s report, but an excellent walk is the Allée Forestière de la Chausée, the track running south from the Carrefour de la Belle Etoile in the forest centre. This produced good numbers of Crested Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and Bonelli’s Warbler and many calling woodpeckers. Clearings along the Route Forestière de Carheil from the D164 produced displaying Honey Buzzards, with calling Dartford and Melodious Warblers in the scrub. Out of interest, up to 15 Nightjars were seen here by another observer one evening. Very close to the forest is the excellent Nantes-Brest canal at Guenrouet. Park off the D2 and walk south along the canal towpath. You can easily see double figures of Turtle Dove, we had calling Hoopoe too. By far the best bird is the Golden Oriole - these are present in both the poplar plantations at Guenrouet and further south near Carheil but in July family parties move into the surrounding oaks, becoming easier to see.

 

Other Sites:

 

The saltpans at Guérande will produce huge numbers of Avocet and smaller numbers of Black-winged Stilt, with passage waders in July. This is also an excellent site for Bluethroat, though again these are very elusive in July. As usual, we only scratched the surface on our visit, and would be glad to hear from anyone else visiting the region.

 

 

Daily Summaries:

 

30.6.06 : Birding around Caen :

 

A quiet day’s birding. In coastal fields at Bernière-sur-Mer, a Fan-tailed Warbler was in flight over crops, while some stops along the D83 near Fontaine-Henry produced a Short-toed Treecreeper and calling Turtle Dove. At the abbey of Thaon, we found a family of Marsh Tit, singing Nightingale and a pale-phase male Honey Buzzard. The afternoon was quiet too, with a stop at the River Dives on the D78 producing Marsh Harrier and more surprisingly, a single White Stork. A pair of Serins at the Pegasus Bridge Café finished the day.

 

1.7.06 : Caen to Briere Marshes :

 

Our stop en-route today was the Foret de Rennes. We spent three hours in an area off the D358 near some pools. Birding was appalling in the afternoon sunshine, but butterflies were excellent, with huge numbers of White Admiral and smaller numbers of Silver-washed Fritillary and Large Chequered Skipper, as well as a single Purple Emperor. Wood Warbler, Short-toed Treecreeper and Marsh Tit were seen. Normally French motorway journeys are made interesting by raptor sightings. Today, it was a Purple Heron flying over the N137 S of Rennes that provided the interest. We arrived at St Lyphard, Briere Marshes, early evening. A pre-dinner walk from the hotel produced a good range of butterflies including four Purple Hairstreak, a Purple Emperor, White Admiral and several each of Large Chequered and Silver-spotted Skipper. We soon came upon two Sacred Ibis. A Honey Buzzard overhead was presumably passing through, and there were four each of Marsh Harrier and Black Kite. Over the reed beds, we saw our only decent Purple Heron of the holiday, which gave excellent flight views. Soon, an adult Night Heron came flying in but a probable Little Bittern, flying low over the reeds, was too brief for a certain ID.

 

2.7.06 : Briere Marshes :

 

We left the hotel before 6am this morning with a beautiful sunrise over the marshes and some less appealing horse flies and mosquitoes thrown in too. Turtle Dove was purring, and emerging onto the marsh we found three Spoonbill feeding close-by with the ibis. As we walked around the marsh, a Bluethroat popped up right next to me - sadly it had its back turned so the best part of the bird went unnoticed as it soon dived into cover! Two Night Heron flew overhead and soon the dull reeling of a Savi`s Warbler was heard. Over the next two hours, we got closer and closer until they seemed right next to us, but despite at least four birds singing at the same time not one was seen. A pair of Yellow Wagtail flew over, a Black Kite flew in to catch fish and another Bluethroat gave excellent views singing from bush tops within the reeds. A Cirl Bunting was in a nearby tree. A very productive morning visit. After breakfast we visited the Chausée Neuve, where the colony of Whiskered Terns - easily up to 80 birds - was in full action. Three pairs of nesting Black-winged Stilt were present, as was a nesting Spoonbill. Turtle Dove and Little Egret were common here. The heronries mentioned in previous reports were only very small, consisting entirely of Greys, though a tree-full of Sacred Ibis was an impressive sight. In the afternoon we took a trip to the reserve naturelle at Rozé, stopping en-route for the cormorant colony N of Saint-Joachim. At the reserve we soon found Fan-tailed Warbler, with Spoonbill, Little Ringed Plover and Green Sandpiper on the scrapes. Over the marshes we picked up a single Black Tern, some very distant Purple Herons, a flying White Stork and many Black Kite. Returning down the path, a Night Heron gave stunning views - first flying, then in a tree 10ft away, as did a Yellow Wagtail. To avoid any more heat, we took a walk in a small wood near Herbignac, which produced two Cuckoo and a very brief female Hen Harrier flushed off a haystack, as well as more White Admiral and Silver-washed Fritillary.

 

3.7.06 : Briere & Golfe du Morbihan :

 

This morning’s early morning start was hampered by light rain, and the only bird seen was a Night Heron, though both Bearded Tit and Savi`s Warbler were heard. Flocks of Sacred Ibis were an impressive sight overhead, and we enjoyed views of both Coypu and a more distant Otter. We reached the Marais de Sene Reserve at lunchtime, where we wondered if the combination of Turtle Dove and Cirl Bunting on the same wire would still be possible in England. The marshes held limited species; many Avocets, two flying Black-winged Stilts, a Greenshank and calling Dartford Warbler in addition to a showy Fan-tail.  Our last birding stop of the day was the Point de Penvins, where Sandwich and Common Terns were fishing offshore. Kentish Plover was soon picked up on the large area of mudflats - at least three in total - but these were quite distant as the tide was out. This evening back at St Lyphard, the roost provided three Night Heron, a Spoonbill and a reeling Savi`s Warbler, but the best sighting was an Otter that popped up right next to us before taking a fish.

 

4.7.06 : Briere Marshes & Foret de Gavre :

 

The same morning walk provided excellent views of Night Heron again and prolonged if distant views of a territorial Bluethroat. Cetti`s Warbler joined Savi`s on the growing “heard” list, but several Coypu were a bit less subtle as they crashed across the path. The Foret de Gavre is a brilliant place filled with clear, well-marked paths. We walked south of the central crossroads, soon picking up families of Crested Tit which gave stunning views. Short-toed Treecreepers were quite common and Marsh Tit showed. Hours later, several woodpeckers had called, including at least one Middle-spotted and a Black Woodpecker, but neither showed. Much later in the walk, a pair of Bonelli`s Warbler was a personal highlight but a Spotted Flycatcher was good to see as well. A further stop along the Route Forestière de Carheil produced a brief Dartford Warbler, calling Melodious Warbler and Middle-spotted Woodpecker, and two Large Tortoiseshell around the pines. In the evening back at St Lyphard, we enjoyed excellent views of some quite cuddly Nutria - though initially mistaking them for beavers!

 

5.7.06 : Guérande, Foret de Gavre and Nantes-Brest Canal :

 

After a brilliant morning’s visit to Guérande, we had a brief look at the saltpans, where hundreds of Avocets outnumbered the less common Black-winged Stilt (two) and Ruff (one). It was too late for the Bluethroats in the scorching heat, so we moved on to the Foret de Gavre. Stopping at the Rond Point de Carheil off the D164, a pair of Honey Buzzard gave a brilliant aerial display, but another stop in a clearing produced the same “heard” ticks as yesterday. Giving up, we moved off the Guenrouet. As soon as we got out of the car, we heard at least two Golden Oriole calling from the poplars beside the Nantes-Brest canal, but the density of these trees made viewing them impossible. A walk south along the canal produced numerous Turtle Doves and calling Hoopoe. It was looking like a washout when a Golden Oriole suddenly fluted right next to us, and two birds shot away overhead. Half an hour later we were still struggling to see any, with at least six birds calling to each other from trees across the canal. Suddenly, a static gleam of yellow showed in an oak and there it was - a stunning male oriole sitting in the open, soon followed by up to five others - another male, two females and two juveniles. What a bird - best till last!

France - La Brenne & Pyrenees : August 2005

 

Introduction: Having had our Austria trip pulled at the last minute due to the Heathrow strikes, it turned out to be an incredible stroke of luck as, two weeks later, we looked back on a brilliant trip through France and North Spain that yielded many overdue and sought-after species. Our target species on this trip were principally Purple Heron in La Brenne and Lammergeier in the Pyrenees as these were some of the very first species on my birding “wish-list”.

 

Logistics: We took a camper van across to the continent, travelling down and staying in out of the way places. Accomodation for La Brenne is easily found at Mézières-en-Brenne whilst for a good exploration of the French Pyrenees, accommodation around the Gavarnie area is ideal though in season you will struggle to find anything below the mountain village of Gedré. As always, the Michelin mapping series proved invaluable.

 

Key Sites:

 

Parc Regionale de la Brenne:

 

All areas in the park are likely to produce such species as Whiskered Tern, Purple Heron, Cattle & Great Egrets and Osprey in August in addition to commoner farmland species, but we found the following sites the most productive:

 

·          Etang de Gabrière: A large lake with much potential – notable for its Night Heron roost; birds fly over the hotel situated beside the lake each dusk. Good for egrets and herons and a breeding site for Eurasian Bittern.

·          La Chérine: A designated nature reserve with a large Purple Heron colony which may be viewed on request from a locked hide; ask at the information desk. Pond Tortoise are easy to see here and may be observed around the information centre.

·          Etange de Bellebouche: A large, popular lake whose surrounding woodland provides Hoopoe, Short-toed Treecreeper and woodpeckers. Another Purple Heron colony exists here, birds are most active at dawn. A large population of Long-eared Owls are apparently evident here in early summer.

·          Etange de Blizon: A large egret roost of all three species can be seen here as well as other heron species and especially large numbers of Whiskered Tern.

·          Foret Lacosme: To the east of the main body of lakes, a good site for Black Woodpecker though these were elusive in August.

 

French Pyrenées:

 

Griffon Vulture are evident throughout, and in August passage of Short-toed Eagle and Honey Buzzard will be evident anywhere, as will common Alpine species such as Alpine Chough, Water Pipit, Red Kite and Crag Martin. Here are some sites which offer a good chance of some Pyrenean specialities:

 

·          Col de Tourmalet: An excellent site for high alpine species such as Alpine Accentor (early summer) and Snowfinch, which flock around the car park, allowing stunningly close views.

·          Vallée d’Ossau: The site for Lammergeier sightings with birds observed throughout its length. Golden Eagles hold territory on the steep rocky outcrops to the right of the valley. Rock Bunting favour the scrubby area at the entrance to the valley. Excellent for butterflies even in late Aug, with Scarce Copper, Mountain Ringlet, Camberwell Beauty, Rock Grayling and Escher’s Blue.

·          Barrage de Gloriettes: Sitauted in the Heas Valley, the rocks around the barrage are excellent for Rock Bunting whilst Rock Thrush nest on the boulders above. A Lammergeier nest is the real highlight if you can find it: stand on the dam and look up to the vast mountain-side above the reservoir in line with the dam. A pale brown fissure in the rock is the general area, look for a small recess in the rock and beware the bird will appear tiny at first! Excellent for butterflies including Iolas Blue, Queen of Spain & Marbled & Red-Underwing Skipper.

 

Daily Summaries:

 

Day 1: La Brenne:

We drove for most of the day towards Mezieres-en-Brenne in the Indre region and that evening set out into the Brenne for our meal, stopping en-route at our first étang, Gabrieu. Almost immediately we were greeted with four Cattle Egrets, obviously part of a post breeding flock. A Black-necked Grebe, a breeding speciality of these lakes, was on the water and best of all were the fishing Whiskered Terns hovering brilliant close to us revealing their short tails, grey belly and contrasting white cheek. A Marsh Harrier was an expected addition to the list. That evening we dined overlooking the Étang Gabriére, where even as we ate, an Osprey flew in to take a fish and, as dusk settled over the lake, Night Herons came flying in to roost, two juveniles circling the restaurant right over our heads before moving off.

 

Day 2: La Brenne:

 In overcast weather we arrived at the Chérine reserve, where Cirl Buntings sang from wires and Fan-tailed Warblers called their “Zzit” from overhead. At the visitor centre, an incredible diminutive European Pond Tortoise  was found sitting on a dried up bank. The drought has affected the water life of the Brenne much this year. We moved onto the hide, where some impatient scanning of the many Grey Herons almost immediately yielded a striking Purple Heron, sitting plumb in the open at the edge of a reed bed. The bird gave a great fishing display before flying off: the incredible snake like neck, colouring and plumes make this a wonderful creature to observe: a long-awaited lifer and a stunning species. We moved onto the Étang de Beauregard. A short walk showed passage in full swing; a post-breeding flock of Black-winged Stilts and huge numbers of Whiskered Terns including many young birds. Butterflies were beginning to emerge and we were able to photograph Great-Banded Grayling, Sooty Copper and Short-tailed Blue. We finished the day at a campsite on the Étang de Bellebouche.

 

Day 3: La Brenne:

The following morning we left the van for a pre-breakfast walk. The woods held another lifer – Short-toed Treecreeper, which finally uttered a call which gave it away. Large numbers of Pied Flycatchers were moving through, while three Hoopoes were an unexpected bonus here. A Purple Heron, as if to prove its status as an easily found bird, flew in from the nearby heronry to start fishing. We passed the Étang de Gabriére again towards lunchtime, picking up another Osprey and, totally unexpectedly, a rather early flock of Great White Egrets, presumably from Eastern Europe or dispersing from the colonies on the Atlantic Coast. As we passed on, we met a flock of 80+ Cattle Egrets and a another Purple Heron flew past. At the Étang Massé things were very quiet except for a criminally brief Southern White Admiral which flew over and a single Wat