Socialization is a lengthy learning phase during which the puppy acquires all the behaviors needed for life in the pack. This stage begins at the age of six weeks and ends arbitrarily around the age of four months. Mistakes in rearing or training during this period are possible and may jeopardize a happy and balanced relationship between the owner and his companion.
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The puppy is born into the world not knowing to which species he belongs. He has to identify with his species. He will acquire this information in a unique, almost irreversible learning process, which is called "imprinting." A poorly imprinted animal is a lost cause for the species.
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This learning process occurs through games with his brothers and sisters and his mother. As an adult, this will enable him to recognize his sexual partner and to avoid rejection or flight with other members of his own species.
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If, however, a puppy is raised with other species (humans, cats, rabbits, even a stuffed animal), he may end up identifying with the species with which he lived. If there is a complete absence of other dogs between three and more or less sixteen weeks, the puppy will identify with the nearest species (human, cat, rabbit), or even a decoy (stuffed animal). As an adult, this will lead to social preferences as well as courting behavior and attempts to mate with the species he identifies with and aggressive behavior towards his own species. In order to avoid this type of situation, the puppy must be raised in a group, with its mother, until he is at least eight weeks old.
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Dogs are not programmed to interact socially with a foreign species (cat, human, rabbit). They must be socialized to other species, as well as to humans. Thus, if a puppy is raised with cats, it will not ultimately attack them.
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The breeder must therefore put the puppy in contact with other species if possible and especially with different types of people (men, women, children). This interaction must continue until after two months of age. Interaction with other species during this phase will not prevent identification with his own species. The interactive presence of other species will lead to inter-specific socialization and attachment that goes against predatory behavior.
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Educating the Puppy |
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Acquiring a dog implies a certain number of obligations as well as knowledge of how to train the dog so as to avoid bothersome problems that in the future can result in unfortunate abandonment, even euthanasia. A puppy must be trained in order for a harmonious relationship to prevail between him and his owners. Training involves several areas such as house-training and obeying orders.
| How Do You House-Train A Puppy?
It is first necessary to understand the various learning stages in elimination behavior. From birth, the mother stimulates urination or defecation by licking the perineal region and then she ingests all the feces emitted. When the puppy starts to leave the litter, his mother continues to lick him under his tail, which stimulates urination or defecation. Ultimately, these reflexes disappear and stimulation by licking is no longer necessary. The puppy leaves the litter and eliminates his waste further away. Starting from the age of six weeks, he sniffs out the spots where he previously defecated and relieves himself in the same places. When a puppy is brought into a home, he is generally not house-trained. He does not eliminate in the place where he sleeps, but that is about it.
| A House-Trained Dog Is The Result Of Training
Starting from the age of two months, that is, after the puppy's first vaccinations, the puppy should be taken outside. He should be taken out every five to six hours when he first wakes up and after meals until the age of four months. At first, choose a place or even a newspaper that is saturated with the puppy's own odor. A newspaper that is placed into the gutter can be removed after some time. In the beginning, as soon as the puppy relieves himself at the desired place, he should be systematically rewarded either through voice or by petting. Despite the best-intentioned efforts of the owners, there will always be some accidents as the puppy is learning. If the owner finds stains in the house, he should never punish his dog (unless he catches him in the act). The technique of using newspaper inside the house should be banished because the dog will associate this with the place of elimination and stick to it. Even if he goes out, he will wait until he goes back inside the house to take care of his needs. When out walking, never end the walk as soon as the dog has taken care of his needs, because he will quickly learn to associate needs with the end of the walk.
| The Dog Must Also Be Trained To Obey. How? By Reward Or Punishment?
In order to be effective, the reward method must adhere to several principles. The reward should be significant for the dog. In other words, the owner should praise the dog through contact and abundant caresses and speak to him warmly. It should be exceptional in nature, such as giving unusual treats. Finally, when practiced systematically, it will become aleatory and the dog will no longer be motivated. Rewarding is, a posteriori, an ethological nonsense.
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As for punishment, in order to be effective, it should be used when the dog is caught in the act and should be given out at the same time. It must be unpleasant in nature for the dog and must be meted out systematically for every punishable act, which is sometimes very difficult since the owners do not always catch the dog in the act. Punishment after-the-fact will cause anxiety and will aggravate the situation. Punishment can be direct, for example, grabbing the dog by the skin of his neck, which replicates the maternal behavior and shaking him by lifting him up slightly. Contrary to popular opinion, it is possible to give the dog a slap of the hand. The dog is perfectly capable of distinguishing between the hand that pets him and the hand that hits. It is also possible to punish a dog from a distance by throwing a non-dangerous object that will make noise at him. Learning by reward requires more time than punishment, but on the other hand, it sticks longer. When punishing a dog, it is necessary to recognize the submission position because at that very instant, punishment must immediately stop. If the owner continues, the punishment will cause anxiety and will cease to be effective. Equipped with this information, the owner is now ready to begin training.
| Teaching Obedience (Sit, Lay, Etc.) Is Easy
The first thing to remember when giving a dog a command is to refrain from making speeches because the dog does not understand human speech. A simple, hearty "no" will suffice. Early on, the dog should become accustomed to wearing a collar and then a normal leash. Walking the dog on a leash can be started at home and performed several times a day, always for short periods. If the dog pulls, give a quick snap to the leash. Do not forget to reward the dog when he has done well.
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Some dogs do not come when they are called. They come to within a few meters of their owner and stop. As soon as the owner approaches the dog to catch him, the dog runs away again. Above all, remain calm. Do not become annoyed and certainly do not punish the animal. You should never get angry. Even if the dog takes his time, you should not punish him when he returns. This is undoubtedly the most frequently committed mistake. The dog will associate punishment with having come back to his owner. On the contrary, when he comes back, you should praise him, pet him and above all, you should not immediately put him back on the leash. Instead, let him go back to playing. If every time he is called it means putting the leash on and going back inside, it will be a punishment for him. If you want him to come back, you must adopt a welcoming and calm attitude and you should definitely not run after him. You will never be able to catch him! Rather, you should pretend to leave and turn around and walk away when he returns.
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Dogs must be taught to come when they are called and the ideal age to start is four to five months. Here again, you must be patient. This training can start inside the home. Call the dog with a short command and praise him when he comes to you. Once obedience is mastered inside the home, continue in a closed space if possible and finally, end up in an open space. Be aware that sometimes the dog will revert backwards once outside because there will be a lot of distractions. Do not get angry but start the sessions again inside. The sessions need to be short because puppies tire quickly. He must also be taught to stay out of mischief (tearing up curtains, chewing on table and chair legs, tearing shoes to shreds, etc.).
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Each time he is caught in the act, scold him with a hearty "no" and even give him a little slap. Even better, take him by the nape of his neck if possible and shake him. This will remind him of his mother.
| The Need To Be "Detached"
When a puppy is brought into a home, he becomes attached to a person and vice versa. By the age of four to five months, owners must prompt separation. If this is not done, as soon as the puppy is separated from the person to whom he is attached, he will become panicked and distressed. He will look for his owners and disaster ensues: ruined furniture, accidents on the carpet and howling! The dog is not trying to take "vengeance", he is simply anxious. He must learn to stay alone and to be detached from his owners. Start ignoring him 30 minutes prior to departure. When you return, if the dog jumps all over you, push him away and do not respond. As soon as he is calm, then act happy to see him and pet him. If he has caused damage, act as though you do not see him, even though you may want to punish him. The dog must learn to be separated from his owners and the only way to achieve this is to refrain from responding to his requests to play and to be petted. You must push him away. Owners must take the initiative in the relationship.
| He Must Learn The Rules Of Living With Others
He must eat alone. His food should be given in the kitchen. He should not be allowed to beg at the table, but he should have the right to be present when his owners eat. He should not be allowed to jump up on beds or the sofa without permission from his owners. He should quickly be given his own place to sleep, which should not be a high-traffic area or a strategic point where he is able to survey the comings and goings of the pack, i.e. his owners. His sleeping area should be located in a quiet spot where he can rest. If he nips at hands, you should stop him from doing so (if he is a big dog, nipping will ultimately hurt) and firmly push him away. You should also avoid tug-of-war type games (with a toy, a piece of stick, a rag) because this encourages biting, which is far from desirable for a future companion animal. You should not pet a puppy on demand. As with play, it is up to the master to decide when to play and to initiate contact and petting.
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The Rules of the Game |
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When puppies play "loser takes all", they are learning about hierarchy. The puppy adopts many postures with his brothers and sisters. Rolling, "move over and let me in", etc. At the age of one month, his body is in constant motion. Even his mask is expressive - no more stiff baby puppy face! He curls up his lips, flaps his ears and moves his facial muscles. So many visible signs in the life of the group. Lying on one's back is the best way to get attention: the whole gang runs over, ready for trouble. At five weeks, the puppies start to play little war games. They chew on each other's ears, grab each other by the nape of the neck and nibble on each other's muzzle (the mouth is truly a multi-purpose receptacle). Not only are the puppies being initiated into combat games, they are also learning the rules of life in a pack. The puppy tests attitudes of domination and submission. If he lies flat on his back with his hind paws spread apart, it means he lost the battle! What a feeling! Games that involve pushing and hard struggle reveal the first signs of sexual activity (the young male thrusting his pelvis).
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At three months there is a change of partner. Now the puppy wants to play with humans. He invites them to share in his delirious fun. He has ways and means to convince them. He looks up reverently, his eyes riveted on his owner's and wiggles around as though doing a belly dance. His lips drawn back, jaw slightly open - mimicking a smile - he uses every means of seduction. He skips about, wriggles his body, runs, jumps, leaps, etc. When at last he wins, he gets to play ball. He catches it and brings it back. A stick is thrown to him. He catches it between his teeth, runs off with it and does not let it go.
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Play, which lays the foundation for the hierarchy between dogs, helps prevent fights involving serious biting, soften aggressive tendencies and strengthen ties with the owner. This is a life-long pleasure since in dogs, the desire to play increases with age.
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