HUGE RABBITRY HERD REDUCTION CHECK OUT THE JR & SR DWARFS FOR SALE PAGE TO SEE WHAT IS LEFT. NOT ALL HAVE BEEN LISTED SO CALL IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A CERTAIN COLOR!! CLOVERLEAF RABBITRY
REGISTERED RABBITRY #B075
THROUGH THE ARBA
geneva, florida 32732
407-416-3334
since 1985
PLEASE READ THE TERMS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE
MEMBER OF THE ARBA and ANDRC ASSOCIATIONS
I have been raising quality rabbits for the past 20 years or so. i have just recently decided to raise only netherland dwarfs. I always have adults and babies for sale. i have a variety of colors and types. All are reasonable in price. pedigrees are available on most all. I also have hanging cages for sale for $10.00 a foot /length. all are 2ft in width and 2 ft tall with a 3 inch length at the base for a tray if needed or to attach sheets or felt in the winter. i also have a few indoor cages available.
I Strive to produce quality show, brood and pet rabbits. bunnies without nasty attitudes and other genetic issues. i also try to always offer my bunnies at an affordabe price that everybody can afford. i also include a pedigree on most all my bunnies. even a $15 brood quality only bunny can produce a champion some day bred to the right buck or doe. i guarantee every baby bunny that leaves to have a kind personality and excellent teeth for 1-3 years. if not i will exchange it for another baby bunny.
I decided to raise only the dwarf breed this year due to the many different colors available for the breed. however i am finding it very hard finding alot of the colors. i hope to have most of the colors available by 2010 or 2011. i at one time had most every color there was but sold them and or gave them away when i changed breeds a long time ago. now i wish i had kept them. the main colors i used to have were smoke pearl, siamese sable, bew, silver marten, blue, and the usual , otter, rew, fawn, and bkn patterns which at that time were not yet reconized by ARBA. Right now i have apx 40 producing rabbits one retired 14 year old buck and on average 12 babies.
3 GENERATION BLOODLINES INCLUDE
STYLES, SPRAGUES, SCHOTTS,RITTERS,MALIBU,GREENS,BONDS, DARKSIDE, J-TOPS, P.A.'S. BECKY'S,COWAN'S,JANSENS,BEV'S,ANDREWS,CB'S,COVERTS, GETITIAS, ROTHS,WOLLETS,HILLS,EM'S, RON'S,ELEYS, AND MANY MORE!
A Little About Me and My Beginning With Rabbits
i have raised many different breeds of rabbit. i first got started when a friend in school had to find a home for her dwarf bunny. I was 7 at the time. she was moving and could not take the bunny with her. i begged my parents to allow me to have a bunny of my own since we already had over 20 new zealand whites. they agreed and that was my first dwarf with a pedigree. she was a small perfect little BEW doe named cloud. soon after that i found a dwarf male to breed to cloud and well things snow balled from there. i got involved in 4-h and ffa. not with just the rabbits but with all my animals. i was then lucky enough to find a lady right around the corner from me who raised and showed rabbits for over 45 years. her husband had just passed away and the rabbity had become more work than what one person could do. so i helped her out 3 days a week in exchange for her knowlege and the experience. i owe alot to Victoria . she introduced me to several different breeds. some of which most people have never seen in person due to the lack of interest in the breed. they were widely raised and shown over seas but not so much here in the states. i continued to help and learn from her for many years until the year of the fires. remember when alot of florida was on fire a long while back , well a fire started near her house and and she was evacuated before she could get any of her bunnies out. they all perrished in the fire along with her house and other belongings. over 350 rabbits died that day and a legacy of some of the top show and pedigrees on the east coast. not to mention the rare breeds. I still stay in contact with her a little although her mind does not allow her to remember much anymore.
My Rabbits Nutrition
I only feed a show formula to all my rabbits. i have found this feed to be the best for what the bunnies need. i really like the results from the feed alot. i have noticed better weight. softer shiny coats and less shedding. i have purchased rabbits that go into a severe molt a week or two after i buy them. it takes about a month for the entire process but then afterwards they only molt a little in between seasons. i credit the feed for this since it has only been this way since i started using this certain type. i also have larger healthier litters. the does seem to produce the required milk output for the larger litters as well. i do supplement with calf manna 4 days prior to birthing and 10 days after. you could say the babies are bright eyed and bushy tailed. i also feed timothy hay or alfafa cubes , calf manna and a mineral salt. i only use liquid strongid ,piperzine or ivermec wormer and rotate every 6 weeks. i first worm the babies at 6 weeks, 8 weeks, 10 weeks and 16 weeks then every 6 weeks from there on. i feed 1-2 inches of celery or pineapple a week for hairball removal and i give .5 cc of mineral oil once a month. once a week i also add a quarter cup of wheat germ oil to 15 lbs of feed. the only treats i give my bunnies are dried open pine cones.
Some of the breeds i have raised in the past
BREEDS INCLUDE: lops (fuzzy, holland, mini, french), rex ( mini , standard), dutch, champagne d'argent, cream d'argent, checkered giant, britannia petite, new zealand, florida white, californian, satin( mini and standard), jersey wooly, palomino and polish.
BREEDS I HAVE RAISED IN THE LAST 5 YEARS
zew zealand - red, white and black ( from john neffs stock) until 2007
holland lop - tort, bkn black, bkn tort, black, blue, orange, bkn blue, bkn chin, chin ( from gene styles stock)until 2008
mini rex- castor, bkn castor, blue, bkn blue, bkn black, black,blk otter, bkn blk otter ( from nighthawk /sommers stock) until 2008
dwarfs - most all the colors available now. (mostly styles stock so far)
Some Items Every Rabbitry Needs
*metal feed barrel - keeps rodents and moisture out
*feed store with a high turn over of fresh feed- always check the date on your feed, everytime , every bag!
*bbq pit scraper & wire brush - to clean cage boards and wire and feeders. clean 1-2 times a week.
*baby bottle brush - water bottles or bowls- scrub 2 times a week. dump bowls and bottles every day twice a day in the really cold and hot months. would you want to drink warm water on a hot day or cold water on a cold day.
*a local vet with rabbit knowledge
*adams flea spray - for lice ( that may come in on a new bunny)
*ivermec ( ivermec also kills & prevents earmites) and piperzine wormer
*box fans for the warmer months. have them on a timer. this will save on electric. you can also have them set to a certain surrounding temp.
*one nest box for every bunny- all my does have their on nest box and i do not use wire bottoms in them but instead change the bedding every week or twice a week. i also give all my bunnies boxes in the winter months so that they can get in out of the wind. when it is really hot i have a wire basket that i can place in the cage in front of the nest box. i will take the kits out of the box and lay them in the wire box/cage. this way they stay cool all around.
*large cube of pine FB horse bedding/ no dust
*mineral oil
*wheat germ oil
*mineral salt blocks or ground mineral salt
*an area to keep new bunnies away from your bunnies for at least a month
*vet rx rabbit remedy - for ear mites and colds.
*soft cotton swaps and rubbing alcohol- clean ears once a month
*small animal nail clips - dog toy breed sizes normally work best
*blood stop - incase you cut the nail way to short. clip once a month
*probios paste- for scours. even if you think you will not need this still good to have on hand just in case.
*lysol liquid mixed 60/40 to water - use to disinfect a cage or water bowl etc and every nest box after use. rinse throughly.
*lemon pine sol mixed 50/50 to water - spray on the ground to control flys. it is a soap based product and works very well. you can also use repel-x for horses to control and kill flies. avoid spraying the rabbits and their water. if you think you did dump the bowl or toss the feed.
*skin so soft - somtimes a mosquito can irritate a bunnies eyes, ears and nose and personal area. this product diluted with water will keep the mosquitoes away .
*plywood quarter inch boards cut 6 in x 6 in. or larger give your bunny something to stand on other than the wire floor. this will also help if a predator or dog tries to pull your bunny through the floor.
*cloths pins - use to attach felt or feed bags in winter months. they are easy to remove and hold very well.
*seven dust 5 %- safe for livestock and pets. helps with ants and flies. coat the legs or poles of your cages or barn and it will prevent the ants from climbing up to get in the nest box.
*small hand held blow torch- i use this once a year to burn the excess hair off the wire that i can not get off with water pressure and a wire brush. a quick sweep and the hair is gone. be careful anytime you mess with fire. also remove the bunnies from the entire section . bowls , feeders, boards and anything else in on or around the cage. i will aslo wet the ground under the cage. once done and cooled spray the cage with lysol , let sit and rinse throughly.
* 2 liter plastic cola bottles - freeze these and put them in with a doe in the dog day hot months while she is in labor or just use them on a bunny that looks to be over heated. even if they do not lay up against the bottle it will cool the air around them.
you may think some of these items are wierd or over kill but as you know it is better to have it and not need it then to need it and not have it!
PLEASE NOTE ALL THE ABOVE STATEMENTS ARE MY OPINION AND THINGS I HAVE FOUND TO HELP IN RAISING RABBITS. IN NO WAY AM I SAYING OR SUGGESTING THAT THIS IS THE ONLY WAY AND TO CHANGE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU OR TO GO AGAINST ANYTHING YOUR VET HAS TOLD YOU TO DO.
TERMS
All sales are made on a first come first serve basis. However, if you are interested in a particular rabbit I will hold it for seven days with a 50% non-refundable deposit unless it is a baby in which case time allowed starts at 8 weeks of age. Deposit must be recieved within five( 5 ) days of your commitment to purchase or rabbit will be relisted. When I receive your email or written commitment to buy, the rabbit will be marked as SALE PENDING. When I receive your deposit Rabbit will be marked SOLD. Some EXCEPTIONS do apply .
Rabbits are living breathing animals, therefore I do not guarantee show quality, (how a rabbit will place in a show), reproductive ability or quality of offspring, as these depend on many factors beyond my control. No rabbits with known disqualifications for show will be offered for sale as show quality. Those with DQ markings, color, etc. will be offered as brood or pet quality only. It is the purchaser’s responsibility to examine the rabbit before taking possession for defects and ARBA disqualifications. All rabbits are in good health at time of sale. You have 7 days from the date you take possession of the rabbit to notify me of any illness or death. This must be done at the first sign of illness or immediately after death. If the illness or death occurred because of negligence on your part no replacement will be offered or made. A replacement rabbit or refund will be offered at the time of the contact. If there are no replacements at that time your name will be put on a replacement list and you will be contacted when one becomes available. You will have one week after you have been notified that replacement is available for pickup to pick up your replacement rabbit. Anything that occurs 7 days after the sale is not covered by any warranty, written, expressed or implied pertaining to illness or death. You must contact me as soon as the rabbit appears ill in any way. You will be asked to bring the rabbit back immediately. I am not responsible for any vet bills that may occur on any bunny you purchase from me. If you wish to take your bunny to a vet for a full exam at your expense you have 48 hours to do so starting at the time of purchase. If the rabbit does not pass the exam by a licensed vet then you may either ask for a refund and or replacement. Exam is still at your expense. I will need the written exam form from the vet acknowledging that the rabbit was in poor health. You will also need to bring back the lifeless body of your bunny if it does die in the 7 days. Unfortunately I have made this a rule due to buyers sending pics of the bunny they lost prior to purchasing one from me and attempting to get another bunny for free.
IN SHORT I ONLY OFFER A LIFETIME OR 1-3 YEAR EXCHANGE ON A BUNNY IF YOU DECIDE YOU WANT ANOTHER BABY AND YOUR BUNNY IS STILL IN GOOD HEALTH.OR IF BUNNY HAS A ATTITUDE ISSUE, AGRESSIVE, MEAN , BITES SCRATCHES TOO MUCH ETC. A RABBIT CAN DEVELOPE A PROBLEM WITH ITS TEETH IF THE TOOTH OT TEETH ARE BROKEN AT SOME POINT. I DO NOT GUARANTEE OR WARRANTY A BUNNY FOR THIS. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE BREEDING OF THE RABBIT. MOST LIKELY THE RABBIT CAUSED THE PROBLEM PULLING ON THE WIRE WITH HIS TEETH. THIS IS BEYOND MY CONTROL.
Please note if you buy a bunny from me that has button/butting teeth or any teeth issue none of the above apply except IN CASE OF death or illness rules (7 days). In which case I will replace the bunny for the same purchase price of the first which is either $3-$5 or refund your money or allow the amount towards another bunny. Please also note any bunny whose teeth are in question are sold for $3-$5. I will not knowingly sell any rabbit with a genetic teeth fault without telling the potential buyer first of the required upkeep. You will be informed that the bunny will need regular vet visits for the teeth to be trimmed. Also no pedigrees will be given on any such rabbit and said rabbit is requested to be spayed or neutered or not to reproduce at any time. The final purchase decision of the said rabbit will be the buyers.
I DO NOT CURRENTLY OFFER SHIPPING but i am willing to meet you in osteen, sanford, oviedo or titusville for a min purchase of $45. i will meet you 45min to an hour from my location for a $100 min purchase. and i will meet you 1 1/2 hrs -2hrs from my location for a $150 min purchase. 1/2 deposit is required for all over $50 before delivery. travel and fuel fee is currently .18 per mile or $4.50 per 25 mile round trip plus tolls. payment is cash only ( i have received a few bad checks so i will no longer accept a check as final payment w/bunny) if paying deposit by check you will have to wait until the check clears for delivery. if check is returned NSF you be asked to pay my banks fee . all e-mail agreements are final and are a binding contract . therefore all deposits are non refundable unless a rabbit falls ill or dies while in my care. addendum: HOLD POLICY as of 12/20/2008--> if you see a bunny that you like and or call me and would like for me to place a bunny still in the nest box on hold the following applies. if the bunny is ready to go when you wish to place it on hold you will need to pay a deposit of 1/2 non refundable within 48 hrs. the bunny will then need to be picked up no later than 24 hrs from the agreed pick up date. after which if not picked up the bunny will be relisted and you will loose your deposit. if you live out of state or area a check for 1/2 the purchase price must arrive priority mail within 3 days including saturday but not sunday. same 24 hr rule applies for pick up date. if the bunny is younger than 6 1/2 weeks and/or still in the nest box no deposit is required at the time you wish to place the bunny on hold. however if someone else shows interest in the same bunny and wishes to purchase it a deposit of 1/2 the purchase price is required . same time frame as above. if the deposit is not received within the allowed time the bunny will go to the next interested party. with the above . you have 24 hrs to reply once you have been informed that your bunny is ready to go or a deposit is needed. if you do not reply the bunny will be relisted. i do apologize for the bluntness of this policy but i have had way to many people take advantage of the previous hold policy and therefore i had to change it. i am way to trusting at times and still take people at their word. there is also a limit of only two bunnies per person on hold at any time. i will supply you with an agreement to mail with your deposit and then i will e-mail you a receipt once the check has cleared. once i receive the check you will get a temporaryreceipt pending the check clearing showing check number, amount and bank it is drawn on. deposit is only refundable in case of bunnies death and/or injury that will prevent it from preforming at a show etc.
