Arbroath Sport Climbs

Arbroath Sea-Cliffs, Scotlands Premier outdoor sport climbing venue!

 

LOCAL CONDITION UPDATE 

 

Friday 17th July 2015

Well its high summer again. At least its meant to be, awaking to nearly 15mm of rain overnight and it still chucking it down was not a pleasant experience.

So far its not been a really active summer over the whole of the Angus area. Some crags have been dry for ages due to generally low rainfall but the cold temps of May and June seem to have inhibited a lot of climbers. Some places like Balmashanner have had a lot of traffic. The coastal crags of the Elephant and the Arbroath seacliffs have seen a lot fewer visits.

Legaston has been undergoing something of a revival though with numerous vehicles present on some evenings. (please park considerately).

Hopefully the dry ground will be able to soak the heavy recent rain and not allow it to cause too much seepage.

At Kirrie Hill some new parking arrangements are in place at the crag top and a raft of new routes from a couple of years has filled in most of the crag though the rock quality is poorer in general than on the older, longer established lines.

Please also remember not to obstruct the turning area by inconsiderate parking at Robs Reed

Crag Conditions

The Seacliffs were in good condition until the dryish weather recently. This has caused the common problem of sandiness on many of the routes and a soft brushing will be required before an ascent is made in many cases. Or wait until autumn when the problem generally decreases.

Elephant Rock has been in great condition too back in May/June but can be prone to seacliff fickleness so typical of the NE. Gets the sun in the morning up to about 1pm so make an early start if its cold.

Robs is open until end of August.

Ley Quarry is in decent condition. especially on the most popular routes. Some of the less frequented ones might benefit from a light brushing/weed removal. Sheltered and dry, its game on at Ley. One of the few perma dry crags in Angus. If you get a bit of sun it can be positively scorchio. 

Legaston is pretty dry.  However this crag is in need of some serious traffic, Please!

Balmashanner is in good condition.Slight seepage on a couple of routes. Note here has been some ongoing work at the Shanner replacing lower offs, bolts and doing a general clean up. This has been funded exclusively by locals so don't hesitate to donate  It has really made a difference to the place and some tidying is still on going.

Kirrie Hill is buzzing and getting traffic. Mobbbbed!

The Red Head is about to open on July 31st though no one seems to know if the bird issue still occurs there.

Alan Cassidy looking relaxed on the lip of Reinforcer 17.03.12

 

Old Shots Wanted

We are keen to get together some old pictures of local climbing. If anyone has any pics that date back 20 years or more and would like to share them please send them in. To get us started we received this classic from Grant Patterson (sorry its taken so long to get it up!)

Jeans, tartan shirt and almost certainly a Whillans harness, a true classic. Despite the large rack it seems Grant forgot to tie in! However he can be forgiven because back then Sector Mini was a bouldering venue, no mats or spotters in those days....

 

AN ARBROATH CLASSIC     E'evil Dead 6c

The route starts up Buoys of Summer 6b+ and the pic above shows the moves to leave that route just after its crux.

 

After the deep pockets and jugs of the last few moves it starts to go wrong and gets all rounded and slopy. Thankfully the friction at Arbroath is incredible!

 

The final top out moves are a wee bit of a rounded mantle. Or of course you could follow the red coloured hangers round the arete at a lower level and finish up the thin groove to do Flesh E'eter a tricky 7a+

 

LOCAL ACCESS ISSUES (Updated 03.09.13)

From time to time local access issues raise their ugly heads (a bit like some of us local climbers I suppose  )

Here is a round up of the access issues that are on going in the area just now.

Red Head: open until March 2014 (presence of nesting birds in last few years not been confirmed)

Elephant Rock: No issues at present.

Legaston Quarry: New signs erected. On the perimeter of the quarry warning of dangers and at car parking declaring private road with no access or parking allowed. This would seem to be reaction to the fatality that occured here a while back. Access to climbing not affected and climbers have been parking as normal. If asked to move there is parking on the broad verge on opposite side of main road but please point out to those making the request that you moving will incur far greater danger with respect to traffic and will not prevent you accessing the climbing. Hopefully this will be short lived.      There have been NO reported problems with this since signs erected in 2011

Balmashanner Quarry: No issues but farmer/owner seems intent on filling the place in slowly but surely. The Left Wall has already seen encroaching detritus and may need debolted to at least save the hangers if situation worsens. Negotiations with owner may prove necessary in next few years. Update 2013. No further filling in in last 2 years.

Robs Reed: The position here is that access is officially banned and has been for past two years. However this has not been enforced on any occasion that we are aware of and of course under Scottish access legislation cannot be. Please do not damage the gate and park with consideration for other climbers and for the local farmers. I cannot emphasise this strongly enough. (see further below! ) Obviously Robs closes for Deer Rutting 1st Sept to 31st Oct and it is sensible to recognise and follow this guidance.

Kirrie Hill: No obvious issues at present. Changes to parking mean you now have to walk 100m further to the crag!

Ley Quarry: The only issue here is that dogs are banned. They have been from day one and are still (thats 21 yrs for those who dont know the local history) Please do not do anything to further contaminate the pool.

 

Visitors to Robs Reed please be aware  NEW PARKING INFO 17.04.11

Its beyond belief that some inconsiderate parking has still been creating potential difficuly with locals.

DO NOT PARK ON THE TARMAC AREA AT ALL!!!!      (Not even at the "side" under the tree ie behind the vehicle in the photo below!)

Please get your vehicle completely off the road. This large area is designed to allow long farm vehicles to turn. If the available verge is full then the other options are as follows:

1. Go round the hairpin and head uphill to park on the verge on the right before the private road sign. It is wide enough to get a car right off the road if you are careful (please ensure you are as LARGE farm vehicles come down here.) Room for possibly 2 or 3 cars here.

2. It is possible to get a car out of the way just a few metres along the track on the left side towards the access gate. Can be muddy but out of the way of machinery. The area further along on the left, level with the gate is often used by farm vehicles turning and to park here would require considerable care.

When parking "normally" ie nose in as you arrive please get as far over to the left as possible especially if you are first to arrive. This will allow maximum use of the space. Please do not take up the whole space with just one vehicle as was seen recently.

It may appear as though you could park just to the right of this vehicle but in reality due to the size of farm machinery passing this would not have been possible. If this van was further over to the left however.... 

 

 

ANGUS AREA GRADED LIST 7A AND UPWARDS

Amended/updated for 2011 to include feedback received and new routes 2010.

   8b+

Crag

Merchant of Menace Dt

Balmashanner

 

 

8b

 

Merchant of Menace Var.

Balmashanner

 

 

8a+

 

The Niche

Balmashanner

 

 

8a

 

Ossian

Arbroath Seacliffs

Tales of Creation

Balmashanner

 

 

7c+

 

Gravities Rainbow

Balmashanner

 

 

7c

 

The Reinforcer

Robs Reed

Putting Shame in your Game

Balmashanner

Essential Balmashanner

Balmashanner

Alien Breed

Elephant Rock

 

 

7b+

 

Digital Sclerosis (traverse)

Balmashanner

Vulgar display of Power

Arbroath Seacliffs

Made to Suffer

Balmashanner

Smells like Team Spirit

Elephant Rock

Charred and Damned Desire

Legaston

Haul or Nothing

Ley

Dead Pull

Robs Reed

Wavepower

Arbroath Seacliffs

Rectified

Robs Reed

 

 

7b

 

Holy Water

Ley

Manifestations

Balmashanner

Brian the Snail Dt

Legaston

Pushin’ the Limpets

Arbroath Seacliffs

Totally Trashed

Robs Reed

Savage Amusement

Balmashanner

Butt Ugly Martians

Elephant Rock

Magic Thumb

Ley

Hannibal

Elephant

Trailer Trash

Robs reed

Climb and Punishment

Robs Reed

Pretty Clitty Gang Bang

Arbroath Seacliffs

Trojan Gift Horse

Arbroath Seacliffs

Grotesque

Arbroath Seacliffs

Doigt Attack

Elephant Rock

It’s a Route Jim..!

Elephant Rock

Gatecrashers Galore

Robs Reed

Aerodynamic

Legaston

Knockin’ on Havens Door

Arbroath Seacliffs

Rust in Peace

Arbroath Seacliffs

Slim Pickins

Kirrie Hill

Makin’ the Grade

Ley

Enforcer

Robs Reed

Dennis Caravan

Robs Reed

 

 

 

 

7a+

 

Sweet Dreams are made of this

Arbroath Seacliffs

Delivery Man

Balmashanner

Nirvana

Ley

Big girls Blouse

Elephant

Spandex Ballet

Legaston

Cast adrift on the ocean….etc

Arbroath Seacliffs

Shockwave

Arbroath Seacliffs

Lost the Plot

Arbroath Seacliffs

Bodysnatcher

Elephant

Flesh E’eter

Arbroath Seacliffs

Mutton Dressed as Clam

Arbroath Seacliffs

Fretting over Nothing

Robs Reed

End of the Road

Robs Reed

Grounded

Arbroath Seacliffs

Uninvited

Robs Reed

Haul Anchor

Arbroath Seacliffs

Grand Theft Auto

Robs Reed

Car Pit Baggers

Robs Reed

Short Haul

Robs Reed

Pool of Despair

Ley

 

 

7a

 

Can’t see the F’in Elephant …

Elephant

Perts Buttock

Elephant

Half the Battle

Balmashanner

Twilight zone

Ley

7th Wave

Arbroath Seacliffs

Trial by Dimension

Legaston

Neptunes Kiss

Arbroath Seacliffs

Leyed to Rest

Ley

She Conceives Destruction

Legaston

Lost at Sea

Arbroath Seacliffs

The Codfather

Arbroath Seacliffs

Le Bon vacance

Balmashanner

Beyond the Call of Nature

Robs Reed

Whale of a Time

Arbroath Seacliffs

Out of the red and into…etc

Arbroath Seacliffs

Hanger 18

Elephant

Ever Ready Arete

Arbroath Seacliffs

Barrel of laughs

Ley

At the Crossroads……etc

Arbroath Seacliffs

Shapeshifter

Elephant

Drowning by Numbers

Ley

Air Raid

Arbroath Seacliffs

In at the Deep End

Arbroath Seacliffs

Les Morts Dansant

Legaston

Pilgrims Progress

Arbroath Seacliffs

Beware Geeks Bearing Gifts

Arbroath Seacliffs

Rockets Secret Machine

Legaston

Going Through on Aggregate

Robs Reed

Foundering on the rocks….

Arbroath Seacliffs

One foot in the Door

Robs Reed

Pitscandly Chainsaw Massacre

Robs Reed

Towed in the Hole

Robs Reed

Touch too Much

Kirrie Hill

Serious Beef

Kirrie Hill

 

 

Tides and Weather

 

Tides

You can get all the time and tide info you need for the coming week here.

The Weather forecast can be found here,

Contact us...

You can contact us by E-mail with any comments about the site or the climbing at he Arbroath sea cliffs. Also any good photos taken would be gratefully received (make them small-ish J-Pegs please  ).

 

arbroathclimbing@hotmail.com

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The 2011/2012 Hits