Arbroath Sport Climbs

Friday 5th June 09         

Things were shaping up really well here in Angus sport land until the middle of this week. Last weekends summer weather has given way back to early spring and they are talking about possibly 6 degrees C tomorrow!! Brrrr The rain from the start of may really set back the crags condition and it is only now that some of the Robs routes over the roofs are drying again. The word from the Shanner is SOAKED! Despite this there has been a lot of activity around the area and we have received a lot of feedback, keep it coming folks. If you dont send it in we cant let people know about it!                     

May has truly flown past (thank goodness) and june is often one of the best cragging months for Scotland. Though I remember saying that about May so perhaps I should just keep quiet. If you are making plans for the weekend then the strong NE wind thats forecast will probably mean looking for a sheltered spot. I would avoid the coast thats for sure!   

A visit to Kirrie Hill should hopefully give a sheltered, laid back days climbing. With grades from 3+ upto an eyewateringly hard 7b (Slim Pickins) there is something for the whole family here. The youngsters can sample the delights of The Kirrie Beach Ball, All Chalk and No Traction, then Black in't Back all around the 6c mark in the Bay before sprinting up What Every Woman Wants 6c+ and finishing off with the aforementioned Slim Pickins. If mum and dad are lucky the kids might stick the draws in a couple of routes for them too....  

Robs reed of course needs no further publicity from us, the quality speaks for itself. If you havent been yet you need to get there as its in good condition though there is still a bit of seepage under some of the roofs at the left end. Dirty Harry's Cave is becoming dry again and on wednesday night Iain and I did Enforcer ok. I needed to towel dry some of the holds on my project though but serious progress was made on the crags hardest lined. However it quickly became apparent that someone had snapped off an important hold on the first roof.    Please come forward and confess..... more importantly though have some patience! It will be publicised when the project goes!

Below Iain McDonald gets to grips with a sunny and dry Robs reed. The route in question is Fire In the Hold 6a+

Motivational Talk Bit  (dont miss this out as its not the same as last months!!)

So..... everyone is getting out (when the sun shines anyway) What you need to focus on now though is keeping things going if (or when) the weather kraps out. Dont be too proud to head back indoors. Its easy to say "thats just for the winter" but instead of going for a walk in the rain outside get to the wall and actually train! Try to make up moves that resemble cruxes you have failed on and work on them.

 I know that sounds pessimistic and that the season has arrived (and is rapidly going by) so its time for commitment and dedication if you want to do those routes you have been dreaming of! Yes you might have trained hard, you might have fingers of steel and gathered every scrap of Beta you can on your years goal but do you have the head for it, the desire and the drive? Are you going to go out and grab it by the scruff or let it slip by again this year because its a bit cold, or a bit cloudy, or you have to put up a curtain pole at home.... etc etc (add your own excuse here as we all have them)

Hopefully not.  It will be great to see lots of people out this spring sending those routes they have been avoiding. I hope to join you (once my dodgy finger has healed properly of course..... ) Iain and I are trying to institute a new mind set this year where we no longer have routes that we tactfully "avoid". Its actually proving more difficult to push the head to go on routes you know will be testing or humiliating than to push the fingers!!

CRAG ROUNDUP

At the seacliffs there has been a steady stream of people climbing and also getting arrested "tombstoning"  the local police seem to be taking a very heavy handed approach to this activity. I am unsure whether it will also apply to deep water soloing but it might so you have been warned!! You should be ok with a rope....I hope! The Platform and the Haven have been taking a hammering from several strong teams.

Kirrie Hill  has amazingly seen a great deal of popularity through the winter. Hendo keeps us updated. upto 15 teams out some days! The picture below shows a topless Mr Morrison (steady there ladies calm down  ) on Where theres Muck theres Brass 6c+ (Another one for your kids to send while you belay!!)

Though rumours abound regarding the accident that occured there earlier last year. To put the record straight there was no failure of any insitu gear and the rockfall that occured was due to the climber being well off the route near the top and into some real choss. Whilst we extend every sympathy to those involved, climbers with many years experience, it is a salutory reminder to all of us that outdoor sport climbing is not "just like a trip to the wall" and the unforseen can lead to serious injury. 

At Robs Reed the "M team" of Morrison and Moir have hammered the crag   Fresh from a week of Pre Robs training in Spain they were up for it. Finding the cave dry they both sent Enforcer and Car Pit Baggers. The week before Iain and I had made the first ascents of these routes for the season. Frettin Over Nothing was similarly dealt with along with several others. A second visit saw them tidy up the remaining routes including the rarely climbed Gatecrashers Galore 7b.. The well named "Head of the Queue" has seen just that recently, as Scotlands official easiest 7a (read 6b+) queues have spotted stretching back down the hill  

Balmashanner had seen action in April, a strong ladies team was out. But since May it has been wet and strong Mike reports heavy seepage as recently as last week.

Legaston Quarry, neglected over the last couple of years due to Robs and Kirrie has seen a revival. Most of the usual trade routes have had ascents. It would be nice to hear of a few of No Remorse, Spandex, Charred and Damned Desire and the like. On some recent evenings the parking has been very challenged and parking across the road on the verge has been observed. This is ok but keep right off the road as its a bad bend.

There has been a lot of activity at Elephant rock. conditions have been quite good.

 We have had no recent feedback from Ley Please keep emailing us if you have been out on the rock to allow us to update the crag conditions.

Crag Conditions

Ley Quarry is in prime condition. Sheltered and dry, its game on at Ley, indeed into summer may prove too hot! We should be so lucky!

Legaston is drying rapidly! 

Balmashanner is wet.

Kirrie Hill is of course dry and proving very popular.

The Red Head is closed until July due to the usual nesting restrictions.

Robs Reed is open and seeing a great deal of action. 

ANGUS RE-EQUIPPING DONATIONS   

UPDATE 17.03.08. PLEASE FOLKS DIG DEEP AS THE WORK IS NOT FINISHED! WE WOULD ALSO LIKE TO SEE IMPROVEMENTS MADE AT BALMASHANNER. SO IF YOU FEEL YOU HAVE ENJOYED THE CLIMBING AT ANY OF THE ANGUS SPORT CLIMBING VENUES AND WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE GEAR IMPROVED PLEASE GET IN TOUCH ALSO SUGGESTIONS FOR REEQUIPPING ARE WELCOME (SUBJECT TO THE NOTE BELOW!!!!)

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