LOCAL CONDITION UPDATE
Wednesday 20th August 2008
This is what I said on the 5th of August: ITS OFFICIAL, summer is over! The days of rain and freezing your butt off are on their way back starting tomorrow!
Prophetic words indeed. Since then 150mm of rain have fallen (not counting tonights and tomorrows!) which to put in context compares to a whole months average of 55mm! Judging by the crowds at AVW tonight it suggests that a lot of people are getting back into the plastic! If this carries on its going to be a hell of a long winter....
CRAG ROUNDUP
At the seacliffs there have been few parties out sampling the delights of the sandstone. This is sensible as prolonged wet makes it very soft. Conditions have been wet according to our feedback.
Robs Reed was 90% bone dry on saturday. Enforcer and Dirty Harry/Make my Day were wet and my project is seeping again just when real progress was being made! There have been a lot of people at the crag and it is developing a well used feel.
Kirrie Hill has seen some huge gatherings in the evenings and large groups at the weekends. Angus answer to BennyBeg. This seems to confirm its popularity as a venue. Ken has done a new route just right of the mound "Caned and Unable" 6c and slightly eliminate but good climbing. Iain made a quick repeat in June.
Please keep emailing us if you have been out on the rock to allow us to update the crag conditions.
Crag Conditions
The Seacliffs and Elephant rock are damp and humid. If the wind gets up and the rain stops the Elephant will quickly come good. Avoid seacliffs until it has dried out. this could require several dry days on the trot.
Ley Quarry is scorching when the sun shines, which isnt often but at least it doesnt seep so game on at Ley..
Legaston is damp in places but still reasonably dry.
Balmashanner is soaking. as of today reports reach us that The mighty Shanner is awash.
Kirrie Hill is of course dry and proving very popular.
The Red Head is open for business. Get out there while you can. it doesnt seep so a nice breezy day should give a great outing on the classic Cock o the north 6c. Well bolted but wild exposure!
Robs Reed is open and dry (mostly).
ANGUS RE-EQUIPPING DONATIONS
UPDATE 17.03.08. PLEASE FOLKS DIG DEEP AS THE WORK IS NOT FINISHED! WE WOULD ALSO LIKE TO SEE IMPROVEMENTS MADE AT BALMASHANNER. SO IF YOU FEEL YOU HAVE ENJOYED THE CLIMBING AT ANY OF THE ANGUS SPORT CLIMBING VENUES AND WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE GEAR IMPROVED PLEASE GET IN TOUCH ALSO SUGGESTIONS FOR REEQUIPPING ARE WELCOME (SUBJECT TO THE NOTE BELOW!!!!)
Drop us an email at the site for details of where to send your donation.
A HEARTY THANK YOU
To everyone who made donations in 2005, 2006 and 2007. However the reequipping doesn't stop here and Balmashanner is crying out for some new gear. Some areas of the seacliffs are also needing lower offs so with luck that will get done. If anyone has any particular routes they think could do with new gear or changes made drop us an email. However.....
NOTE Please note that some routes dont have a bolt just where you might like one. This is due in nearly all cases to the rock quality not being satisfactory in the ideal spot. There is a far cry between rock which is strong enough to be climbed on and the strength required to take a bolt placement. Most experienced equippers realise that a bolt in poor rock but possibly in the most convenient spot gives a false impression of safety whereas a bolt in good rock but in a suboptimal position is more easily evaluated by all future users. So next time you are moaning about the bolt spacing spare a thought for the rock!!!
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