Arbroath Sport Climbs
   Arbroath Sea-Cliffs, Scotlands Premier outdoor sport climbing venue!
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Welcome to Arbroath Sport Climbs!

With a 170 plus bolted sport routes (and no midges or ticks!) the Sea-cliffs at Arbroath have to be on your to-do list for 2008.


ITS HERE!

                                                                                                                                                                                            The new Robs Reed guide is now available directly from us here at the website. Plenty of Kirrie Hill in stock too. To obtain a copy please send a cheque for £3.50 (or cash if you trust the postal service) and an SAE (A5 if you dont want it folded) to me at West Port Dental Practice, 30-32 Keptie Street, Arbroath, DD11 3AF

The new Robs guide contains double the number of routes and full details of all the routes at the left end including the jewel of the crag, Dirty Harrys Cave. Forget all that vertical stuff at the right end and feel the thuggery of Skullduggery 6c, the steepness of the brilliant Car Pit Baggers 7a+, or perhaps sample the might of  The Enforcer 7b. Alternatively kick back with the technically absorbing Make my Day 6a and the exposed classic Dirty Harry 6b. All the details are in the topo.

Get a copy while they last either here or at AVW in Dundee. 

20.08.08: You had better hurry though theres only 10 days left until the crag closes for the rutting season, and no, thats the red deer rutting not the local climbers   

 


PARKING PROBLEMS

Visitors to Robs Reed please be aware.

Some inconsiderate parking has been creating potential difficuly with locals.

DO NOT PARK ON THE TARMAC AREA AT ALL!!!! Read your topo and get your vehicle completely off the road. This large area is not Tescos car park as one person seemed to think recently. (I will spare your blushes and not put the photo of your car on the site  )

This area is designed to allow long farm vehicles to turn. If all available verge is full then drive along the track towards the gate as there is another flat area along there.

However it has to be said that if the farmer stopped dumping rubbish on the verge then there would be less difficulty in getting off the tarmac.


LOCAL CONDITION UPDATE

Wednesday 20th August 2008         

This is what I said on the 5th of August: ITS OFFICIAL, summer is over! The days of rain and freezing your butt off are on their way back starting tomorrow! 

Prophetic words indeed. Since then 150mm of rain have fallen (not counting tonights and tomorrows!) which to put in context compares to a whole months average of 55mm! Judging by the crowds at AVW tonight it suggests that a lot of people are getting back into the plastic! If this carries on its going to be a hell of a long winter.... 

CRAG ROUNDUP

At the seacliffs there have been few parties out sampling the delights of the sandstone. This is sensible as prolonged wet makes it very soft. Conditions have been wet according to our feedback.

Robs Reed was 90% bone dry on saturday. Enforcer and Dirty Harry/Make my Day were wet and my project is seeping again   just when real progress was being made! There have been a lot of people at the crag and it is developing a well used feel. 

Kirrie Hill has seen some huge gatherings in the evenings and large groups at the weekends. Angus answer to BennyBeg. This seems to confirm its popularity as a venue. Ken has done a new route just right of the mound "Caned and Unable" 6c and slightly eliminate but good climbing. Iain made a quick repeat in June.

Please keep emailing us if you have been out on the rock to allow us to update the crag conditions.

Crag Conditions

The Seacliffs and Elephant rock are damp and humid. If the wind gets up and the rain stops the Elephant will quickly come good. Avoid seacliffs until it has dried out. this could require several dry days on the trot.

Ley Quarry is scorching when the sun shines, which isnt often but at least it doesnt seep so game on at Ley..

Legaston is damp in places but still reasonably dry. 

Balmashanner is soaking. as of today reports reach us that The mighty Shanner is awash.

Kirrie Hill is of course dry and proving very popular.

The Red Head is open for business. Get out there while you can. it doesnt seep so a nice breezy day should give a great outing on the classic Cock o the north 6c. Well bolted but wild exposure!

Robs Reed is open and dry (mostly).

ANGUS RE-EQUIPPING DONATIONS   

UPDATE 17.03.08. PLEASE FOLKS DIG DEEP AS THE WORK IS NOT FINISHED! WE WOULD ALSO LIKE TO SEE IMPROVEMENTS MADE AT BALMASHANNER. SO IF YOU FEEL YOU HAVE ENJOYED THE CLIMBING AT ANY OF THE ANGUS SPORT CLIMBING VENUES AND WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE GEAR IMPROVED PLEASE GET IN TOUCH ALSO SUGGESTIONS FOR REEQUIPPING ARE WELCOME (SUBJECT TO THE NOTE BELOW!!!!)

Drop us an email at the site for details of where to send your donation. 

A HEARTY THANK YOU 

To everyone who made donations in 2005, 2006 and 2007.  However the reequipping doesn't stop here and Balmashanner is crying out for some new gear. Some areas of the seacliffs are also needing lower offs so with luck that will get done. If anyone has any particular routes they think could do with new gear or changes made drop us an email. However.....

NOTE  Please note that some routes dont have a bolt just where you might like one. This is due in nearly all cases to the rock quality not being satisfactory in the ideal spot. There is a far cry between rock which is strong enough to be climbed on and the strength required to take a bolt placement. Most experienced equippers realise that a bolt in poor rock but possibly in the most convenient spot gives a false impression of safety whereas a bolt in good rock but in a suboptimal position is more easily evaluated by all future users. So next time you are moaning about the bolt spacing spare a thought for the rock!!!


Tides and Weather

 

Tides

You can get all the time and tide info you need for the coming week here.

The Weather forecast can be found here,


How to........

Ever wondered how to climb a particular route in the Angus area. Well here at Arbroath Sport Climbs we aim to help you out. 

We reckoned we should kick off this occasional series with many peoples nemesis and the original Angus sport route DRILLER KILLER at Legaston Quarry. This steady 6c, well 6c+ then, ok ok its maybe a soft touch 7a  should be on every aspiring hard man/womans tick list. So go to the "How to" page and see how its done!

Below a taster of the route....

If you have any particular requests for future inclusion in this series drop us an email. Ps dont ask for Balmashanner as the light there isnt too good for picture taking...  


Contact us...

You can contact us by E-mail with any comments about the site or the climbing at he Arbroath sea cliffs. Also any good photos taken would be gratefully received (make them small-ish J-Pegs please  ).

 

arbroathclimbing@hotmail.com

please remember everything on the site is copyright and may not be copied elsewhere without permission.


The Hits  


©N.Shepherd&J.Ross  2004

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How to...Driller Killer
Platform day out
Robs Reed
Kirrie Hill
The Power and the Heavy
Bouldering at Arbroath
Rut Traverse
Getting here
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Elephant Rock
Sector Mini
Shame in your grades...
Other Crags
Red Head
In-Situ Kit
The Needle's E'
The Platform
The Deil's Heid and Grannies
The Lost wall
Conning Tower Inlet
The Haven
The Battery
The Gargoyle
Doom Hole
Balmashanner
Balmashanner LH Wall rou
Legaston Quarry
Ley Quarry
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New Routes 2004
New Routes 2005
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