AmberBrook Shelties
AmberBrook Shelties
SO YOU WANT TO BUY A SHELTIE
Before I go into the "ways and means" of finding the best sheltie, I must caution you to think long and hard before buying one. Please keep in mind that dogs have needs (food, health care, exercise, love, etc) and they are approximately a ten to fifteen-year commitment. "Impulse" buying is for trinkets, <g>. RAISING YOUR PUPPY RIGHT EXERCISE 1 - Elevation DOMINANT SIGNALS AND BEHAVIOR SOCIALIZATION CONTROL IN YOUR ABSENCE HOUSE TRAINING During house training, it is advisable to feed the pup at certain times, rather than leaving food down all the time. This way, you will be able to estimate when the pup will need to eliminate. Stick to his dog food; don't add table scraps, this can cause him to be picky or give him digestive upsets. Do not vary his diet, or change his food suddenly. WHEN DO YOU TAKE HIM OUTSIDE? BARKING - KEEPING IT UNDER CONTROL CRATE TRAINING
A puppy, born and raised in a barn, kennel or outside, is not usually a good choice if you are looking for a house pet. The first few weeks are very significant! Puppies raised in the house adapt more easily to a new "house" environment and they get more human interaction which I truly believe enriches the temperament they inherit.
Ask A Breeder
The following suggested questions would apply to any breed. They are designed to gather information about the breeder as well as the dogs bred so that you can use common sense in determining where to get your new puppy.
1. How long have you been breeding shelties? While the newbies may have the best intentions, the well-established breeders have much more experience and should have uniformity in their lines.
2. Why do you breed shelties? How many litters do you produce annually? Do you produce any other breed of dogs and/or cats? If "for profit" is mentioned, run don't walk to another breeder. Be cautious if a breeder works with more than two different breeds and/or if they have multiple litters each year.
3. Where was the litter whelped and where were the puppies raised? Are you keeping one of the puppies from this litter? At the beginning, I mentioned the value of home-raised puppies. If indeed the breeder is planning on "growing out" one or two of the puppies in a litter and/or placing one or two with another reputable breeder, you can rest assured that the litter was well-planned and more likely than not all the puppies will be of good quality.
4. Have the parents of the puppies had the recommended tests to ensure that the hips, thyroid, eyes and vWD (re a bleeding disorder) are okay? If the parents are screened and pass the grade for these, it is less likely that their puppies would develop problems in these areas.
5. Have the puppies been dewormed and vaccinated? What further shots, etc. are required within the first year and after that? A eight-week old puppy should have been dewormed twice and given one vaccination (shot).
6. How would you describe the temperament of the puppies? Have they been around children? The breeder should have formed an opinion of the differences in temperament of all the puppies in the litter.
7. What size do you think the dog will be as an adult? In Shelties, this is hard to determine, but the breeder should be able to give an approximation (within one to two inches) based on experience with the lines.
8. Does a sheltie shed much? How much grooming (bathing, brushing, etc) is required to keep a sheltie in clean and tidy? Shelties do shed occasionally but a weekly brushing will keep it to a minimum. A puppy will "blow" coat around one year of age. A warm bath will loosen the undercoat - brushing and/or combing the hair out will avoid having hair all over the house.
9. Do you do any of the following activities with your shelties: conformation shows, obedience, agility, herding, or any other? The answers given to this question gets you information on how active the breeder is with the breed and maybe a clue into what they try to produce in their puppies.
10. At what age do you let your puppies go to their new home? The normal age for a sheltie would be 8-10 wks of age. If a breeder say 6-wks - be cautious.
11. Do you belong to any dog clubs? Are your dogs registered with the Canadian Kennel Club or the American Kennel Club? Most reputable breeders belong to either the CKC and/or the AKC and their local sheltie club. This in itself, doesn't mean that you have found a responsible breeder but together with all the other "right" answers helps you to make a decision.
12. How much exercise does a sheltie require?
13. What kind of guarantee do you offer on the puppies? How long is it in effect?
14. If you do decide to buy from a particular breeder, ask for a copy of their contract and READ it carefully.
Hints and/or Further Guides:
A breeder has a "super nice website" - Don't let this convince you. Pretty dogs; involvement in conformation showing, obedience and/or agility; or membership in all the clubs does not mean that the breeder is responsible nor reputable. You have to get as much information as you can, possibly from a few different breeders, to make an informed decision.
A responsible breeder will ask you a lot of questions. they will want assurance that you will provide a healthy, happy loving home for their puppy.
A responsible breeder will take into consideration many factors when planning a litter. Genetic health and soundness, as well as temperament should be high on the list of requirements.
A reputable Breeder will stand behind their dogs and give a health guarantee.
Buying a puppy from a responsible and reputable breeder may cost you more initially for your puppy but you will (more often than not) save money in the "long run" and avoid many of the heartaches experienced by uninformed buyers getting their pet from a pet store, a backyard breeder or one of the many puppymills (irresponsible breeders. doing what they do, only for the money - we read about these in the newspapers).
Do your homework and you will find that special puppy!
SOCIALIZATION
Dominant Dogs - Dogs that are leaders within their "human packs" bark like crazy when there is any disturbance within their territory. They may growl, nip or bite anyone who disciplines them or forces them to do things. They'll most likely challenge visitors who enter their home, growl when anyone attempts to take things away (especially food or bones), and often mark the inside the home with urine or stool. Dominant dogs may only come when called if it is to their advantage; frequently wander away from home and usually challenge the individual who tries to groom, bathe, or clip their nails. One or more of these behaviour patterns may indicate that a dog has taken a leadership role in the household - a dog that has not been properly socialized to his subordinate role in the "human pack".
The normal, healthy puppy is basically a pushy animal. His tendency is to go as far as possible within the social order of the pack. You must establish yourself as a pack leader and maintain that position throughout the dog's life. Also, family members should establish a leadership role with the dog.
The following exercises will teach the puppy that you are the leader. This will help to prevent behaviour problems and result in your pup wanting to be with you. Once the pup knows you are the "leader", he will treat you with the respect and affection.
1 Sit on the floor and pick the pup up with both hands underneath his shoulders. Have him facing you.
2. Hold him away from your body at arms length and look directly into his eyes. If he struggles, follow with a raised voice and quick shake. When he is quiet, talk to him in a soft, pleasant voice.
3. Maintain this position for 30 to 90 seconds (vary time)
4. Repeat this exercise until he no longer struggles. Change locations and have other family members participate.
EXERCISE 2 - Inversion
While seated on the floor, place the pup on his back, with your hand over his chest. Follow steps # 2-4 as in exercise #1. If at any time, the pup tries to nip or mouth your hands, raise your voice and shake him firmly by the scruff of the neck, as his mother would do. Praise him lavishly when he stops.
EXERCISE 3 - Handling
Handle all four paws with moderate pressure. You should also start opening the pup's mouth and briefly place your fingers between the teeth. Praise him enthusiastically when he tolerates the handling.
- Nipping your skin or clothing or mouthing your hands
- Snarling and/or growling at people
- Guttural barking at people (as opposed to whining or howling)
- Hair standing up on the back
- Tail erect, elevated and slowly wagging while standing erect on all fours during greeting.
- Curling the lips to expose the teeth
- Mounting or thrusting of the pelvis on people
- Prolonged, direct eye contact
- Resistance to the removal of food, objects etc
- Stealing of food in your presence
- Marking of the home with urine or stool, not associated with house training
SUBORDINATE SIGNALS
- Ears back, head and/or body lowered and tail down and wagging vigorously
during greeting. The mouth may be open and the lips drawn back in a "grin"
- Lying on side while exposing groin region, ears back and a tucked under body. (Usually occurs during discipline)
- Licking hands or face
- Expose the pup to various types of people (men, women & kids)
- Expose the pup to as many new situations as possible, but make sure that he has a good experience!
- Get him used to being in crowds or places where there is a lot of activity. Don't hesitate to use treats to distract him.
- If your pup tends to be shy, make sure discipline is not excessive. However, do not baby a shy pup, as this will only reinforce his shyness. Praise and treat him for making progress.
- Encourage him to explore his new home, but supervise, as young pups can get into all sorts of trouble!
- Get him used to noises such as the vacuum cleaner gradually, praising him when he tolerates it
- Introduce him to stairs by putting him on the last step first. Have a treat ready for him when he solves the problem
- Acquaint him with bathing and grooming gently. For example, start out with very light brush strokes and gradually work into regular combing and brushing
- Begin collar training with a buckle collar. Place it on the pup for short periods at a time. He may scratch at it until he gets used to wearing it.
- When the pup is used to the collar, you may begin leash training. Use a nylon or leather leash - attach the leash to the collar and let the pup drag it around for a while. When he is used to this, pick up the end of the leash and follow the pup around. Next, coax the pup to follow you, using food if necessary. When you first walk the pup, you may find that he plants his feet, digs in and screams as if you are killing him. This is normal! Give a quick tug on the leash to get him to move up to you, then immediately release pressure on the leash and praise, praise, praise. The pup will soon get the idea that if he walks with you, the leash will remain loose.
- Do not invite 50 friends over to see your new puppy the first day you get him!!! Allow him time to get used to you and his surroundings before you bombard him with new experiences.
CRATE TRAINING IS NOT CRUEL!!!!!! If the dog is properly crate trained, he will look on his crate as his den, his special place. Not only will you prevent destructive behaviour, you house training will be achieved much more quickly.
(SEE CRATE TRAINING GUIDE FOR DETAILS)
DISCIPLINE
The best way to discipline your puppy is the way his mother would do it. Grab him by the scruff of the neck, at the back, or on either side of the head, and shake him lightly Placing your hand over the muzzle while saying, “NO”, also works for certain behaviours, (i.e. biting, growling, barking).
The best time to discipline your puppy is while he is doing something wrong. If you cannot catch him doing it or within about 2 minutes after the fact, you are wasting your time and are probably giving your puppy a guilt complex.
Be very consistent, if something is a no-no today, it should always be a no-no. Don't allow him to get away with anything, anytime!!!!
Do not strike the puppy with your hands, as this will only make him cower. A dog sees human hands as a “mouth” so striking a dog is akin to biting it.
There are two methods of correcting you puppy from a distance. This is assuming that you cannot catch him.
- a spray bottle filled with water or water with a bit of lemon. Adjust the nozzle to squirt a stream and squirt the puppy in the face while saying "NO" firmly. This method is especially good for unwanted barking or whining.
- Make yourself a shaker can. An empty tin container filled with pennies is good. When the pup does something wrong, shake the can while saying "NO" firmly. Praise as soon as he stops.
- Either of these will interrupt the pup's train of thought and cause him to redirect his attention to you. Give a command – i.e. SIT and when the dog sits, give the “good dog” praise.
Successful house training of your pup depends on several factors:
1. Your understanding of why and when he eliminates
2. Sticking to a consistent schedule of feeding and elimination
3. Establishing an outdoor elimination area
4. Catching him in the act
5. Covering the scent in places where he has had an accident
6. Confining him when you are gone or when you cannot watch him
7. Good health, good diet
- After eating and drinking
- After he has been very active
- After he wakes up from a nap
- After chewing for any length of time
- If he paces, pants or acts restless
**CONFINE IN CRATE WHEN NOT SUPERVISING**
OUTSIDE TRAINING vs. PAPER TRAINING
If at all possible, train your puppy to eliminate outside right from the start. Paper training often confuses the dog to the point that he might spend two hours outside, not go and then come in and do it on the paper. This is because you will have taught him that his toilet is indoors on the paper.
If you must leave an 8 - 10 week old puppy along for longer than 4 hours at a time, put him in a crate that is big enough that he can eliminate at one end if he absolutely has to go. Once the puppy reaches 4 months, he should be able to last an 8-hour day in his crate. Of course, if you give him the run of the house while you are out, he will eliminate all over because he can easily walk away from it. If he is crate trained and is in his crate when you go out, he will not want to soil his den and will attempt to hold it.
CORRECTION
If your puppy has an accident, you must catch him in the act in order to correct him. Do not rub his nose in it - this is not only unsanitary, it accomplishes nothing!! If, however, you catch him doing it, yell at him, grab him and take him outside to his elimination area. Always praise the puppy when he eliminates outside. It is even possible to teach him to go on command, using whatever words you like, by repeating the command to him and by praising him while he is eliminating outside.
SCENT MASKING
Wherever the puppy has an accident, you must mask the scent in that spot to prevent him from doing it again in the same place. Pick up or blot up the mess, then apply white vinegar mixed with water to kill the scent.
If you stick to a schedule, clean up properly, feed good food and keep the puppy confined when you are out, you will have no problems house training your dog.
CHEWING - CHANNELLING A NATURAL TENDENCY
The two distinct periods when excessive chewing is likely to occur are:
a) around 3-4 mths, when the puppy is losing his baby teeth.
b) between 6 & 12 mths - the permanent teeth become set in the jaw.
The young puppy will continually investigate objects through his mouth. Do not provide the puppy with an old shoe if you do not want him to chew on your good shoes as he won't know the difference. Supervise the puppy carefully as he may chew on things that can be very harmful to him (i.e. electrical wires, lead based paint etc). Select a few items that he is allowed to chew (rubber ball, latex squeaky toy, knucklebone, etc). When the puppy chews on something he is not supposed to have, firmly say "NO", remove the object from his mouth and offer something he is allowed to chew. Do try to puppy proof your home as much as possible while the puppy is young.
Whether you want your dog to be a watch dog or not, he will most likely protect his territory by barking as he matures into an adult. Barking continually can be very annoying so you must teach your puppy when to bark and when to stop. It is almost impossible to teach a dog to never bark, so what you must teach him is control.
GUIDELINES
1. Don't encourage the puppy to "speak" for food, as he would be learning to manipulate you, not to alert you.
2. Do not encourage him to bark to go outside. You should have him on a schedule anyway, so there will be no need for him to bark to go out. Some owners teach the dog to ring a bell hung by the door when they have to “go”.
3. If the puppy is barking excessively, tell him "NO, QUIET" and if he does not stop, place your hand firmly over the muzzle and tel him “NO, QUIET”.
4. If the puppy is barking outside and you cannot catch him, use your water sprayer on him, or even the hose if it is warm enough. REMEMBER - As soon as the puppy stops barking, PRAISE!!!
5. Never allow him to continually bark at people. This can lead to aggressive behaviour.
6. If at all possible, do not tie the dog up outside. This can be very frustrating for the dog and he may bark excessively.
7. Do not allow anyone to tease the dog at any time. If children are teasing the dog from the other side of the fence, don't leave the dog outside for prolonged periods of time.
JUMPING UP - A NATURAL GREETING
It is perfectly natural for the puppy to jump up to greet you - after all you are a lot taller than he is. He probably wants to lick your hands and face, which is a natural form of greeting that goes back to his wolf ancestors. This does not mean that this is acceptable behaviour for his "human pack".
TEACHING AN ALTERNATIVE
1. Crouch down to greet the puppy and pet him. This way, you are on his level.
2. Never pet the puppy while he is jumping up or right after he has jumped up.
3. To correct jumping up, allow him to jump up, then lift your knee or shim and bump him in the chest. At the same time, say "OFF" and as soon as all four feet hit the floor, PRAISE. Another method is to stand still with your arms crossed and look up, simply ignoring the dog until he stops jumping up – then give him a pat and the “good dog” praise. Eventually, he should realize that jumping up gets him nothing.
4. If you have company and they do not wish to knee the dog: put his leash on him just before they arrive. Let him drag it around so he forgets it is on. When company arrives, go to the door, pick up the end of the leash and when he goes to jump up, jerk him back, giving your command “OFF”. and then praise him.
5. BE CONSISTENT!!! If you are trying to teach the puppy not to jump up, do not allow him to do it, ever! Later, when he has learned not to jump up, you may teach him to come up when he is invited.
THE RECALL - TEACHING YOUR PUPPY TO COME
Of all the things you can teach your dog, coming when called is the most important - it could save his life.
The best time to teach your puppy to come is as soon as you get him. When pups are small, they have more inclination to stick with you. Take advantage of that fact!!
TRAINING PROCEDURE
1. Start by calling the pup to you when you are about to feed him. This way, he gets a reward for coming and learns to associate it with something he likes.
2. As soon as he responds on one command, start calling him at other times. Have a treat ready to reward him with as soon as he gets to you.
3. Always call him in a happy voice, using his name and "COME". Spend one week on the first three steps, or until he is coming reliably and quickly on the first command. Do this indoors only.
4. Now you may start outside. Get a fine line, about 20 feet long. Take him out on the line and practise calling him to you. If he hesitates, give a tug and call again, praising him when he comes to you.
5. Encourage him all the way in to you and don't get upset with him if he is easily distracted at first. Spend one week on steps 4 & 5 or until the pup comes on the first command no matter what the distraction.
6. Next, you may drop the end of the line and let the pup drag it around. Call him before he gets more than 20 feet away, and if he doesn't come right away, go after him, pick up the line, give it a tug and call him again. Encourage him all the way in.
7. Your next step depends on how well the pup is doing. You may want to try it without the line, or you may want to gradually shorten the line so that he has more and more freedom.
8. Continue to practise indoors with the pup loose. If, for whatever reason, the pup does not come, go to him, get his attention and call him again as you back away from him. As soon as he starts to move toward you, PRAISE.
DO AND DON'TS OF THE RECALL
1. NEVER, EVER call your dog to you and then punish him. I don't care if he has eaten a diamond ring; it is not worth messing up your recall. The dog must always associate the recall with something pleasant or very simply, he will not come to you.
2. Always use a happy but firm tone of voice when calling the dog.
3. Decide on the command you are going to use and stick to it.
4. Do not call the dog to you if you are not prepared to go and get him if he does not come.
5. Use treats and/or praise to reward the dog for coming to you.
CARE AND FEEDING
The Vet Choose your vet carefully, the best way is a referral from a friend. If your pup is 10 weeks old or younger when you get him, he will need booster shots and a rabies shot when he is old enough. It is also advisable to have a stool sample checked periodically. Heartworm is an increasing problem in Ontario and I recommend that the dog be on heartworm medication during the heartworm season (May to October). Mosquitoes transmit it, so if you are taking your pup anywhere where there might be mosquitoes, heartworm medication is a must.
Bathing Bathing is only necessary if the dog gets dirty or rolls in something. A good grooming by spraying the coat with water and brushing thoroughly is just as good as a bath.
Nails It is advisable to clip your dog's nails a little bit each week. If you allow the nails to grow too long, it can affect the pup's feet and can hinder walking. There is a tiny blood vessel in each nail and if you cut too short, the nail may bleed a little. Don't panic - when you buy your nail clippers, get some cauterising powder and apply it to the end of the nail to stop the bleeding. If you cut the tips off each week, the blood vessel will stay short and you should not have a problem.
Brushing Get the recommended brush and comb and a water bottle. Spray the dog lightly with water and brush against the lay of the hair. Use the comb to get out any knots that may develop. Places to watch out for are: behind the ears, the pants and around the neck. Brush the dog thoroughly once a week.
FEEDING YOUR PUPPY
7 weeks to 6 months - Feed your pup 2 or 3 times a day, always at the same time.
6 months and older - Feed your pup twice a day, morning and evening.
I recommend feed the adult dog two meals a day. If the dog eats large amounts of food at once, he is more likely to develop tummy ache or bloat.
Dry dog food is the best for any dog - it is nutritionally complete, relatively inexpensive and provides bulk and necessary chewing activity. You may want to flavour it with a spoonful of canned food or cottage cheese if your dog is fussy. For a young puppy, soak the dry food in warm water for 5 minutes so that it is a little soft. Gradually add less and less water until the dog is eating it dry.
Until the dog is mature, you may want to supplement the diet with a good vitamin - I recommend you get these from your vet. They are chewable and most dogs love them. I also like to add a little vegetable oil to the food, for a healthier skin and coat. It also aids in preventing constipation.
If you want to give your dog treats, get some dog non-coloured biscuits - but take care not to overdo it -they are very high in calories and you do not want your puppy to be too chubby.
Stainless steel dishes are the best - plastic ones can be chewed and also tend to collect bacteria; ceramic ones can break or chip. Wash your dog's dishes in soap and water after every meal, taking care to rinse the soap off well. When dogs eat, a lot of their saliva gets into the dish and can promote the growth of harmful bacteria. Make sure the dog always has plenty of fresh water, change it at least twice a day whether it is empty or not. Many dogs will drink out of a toilet and leave a full bowl of water because it is not fresh. Do not let your dog drink large amounts of water at once, especially after exercise, eating a big meal or on a very hot day. If he drinks too much, he will probably throw up. This is normal.
Always buy a high quality food for your dog. Feed puppy food until the pup is at least one year old. Sometimes, when a new food is introduced, the dog will get loose stools so have a can of pumpkin on hand. All it takes is a tablespoon of pumpkin in the food once or twice and the problem will correct.
DO NOT CONTINUOUSLY CHANGE YOUR DOG'S DIET!! Dogs do not need variety in their diet. In fact, they thrive on the same food all of the time. If you want to give your dog table scraps, make sure you give only a very small amount, and nothing spicy or greasy. Puppies especially, should not have people food - it encourages them to be picky about their food, it is not a balance diet and it can cause diarhea.
TRAINING – BASIC
Shelties are easy to train as they are very intelligent plus they are sensitive and responsive towards their owner(s). They strive to do what you want and often anticipate what is required in order to avoid your displeasure.
For any breed, the basic thing in training is the communication between the dog and trainer because the trainer has to get the dog to understand what he wants him to do. Shelties generally "catch on" very quickly and once they are successful, no amount of praise is too much. Always remember, the sheltie loves to make you happy so if you show him you are happy (by the praise), you get what you want and he gets what he wants. Always quit the training episode on a "happy note" and play with the Sheltie after the exercise is finished.
If you have never trained a dog before and/or you have difficultly getting a puppy to understand what you want him to do, think about taking a professional "training course". A class instructor will explain an exercise to the "trainer" and then demonstrate the exercise with a dog. When it comes time for you to do the exercise with your Sheltie, don't be surprised to learn that your sheltie also "listened and watched” and already knows what to do.
CRATE TRAINING YOUR DOG IS NOT CRUEL........
This is the ideal preventative solution for most common problems - chewing, house soiling, destructiveness etc. The crate training procedure tries to establish a happy, secure and comfortable dog house or den for your dog. We want his crate to be a place of comfort, a place where the dog can go and feel secure, not a place of punishment. Eventually, most dogs find and use the crate on their own, just as they might lay under a table, bed or sofa. This form of training is not cruel - in fact, it avoids unnecessary punishment and confusion. It prevents danger and damage. It provides a natural den and makes the owner much less upset and irritable about the dog (because he will be causing less problems).
1. Plan on spending the first couple of days at home with your dog. Acquire a collapsible, metal crate with a metal tray for the floor. Place an old towel or blanket in it. Choose a room in the house where the dog will feel most at home. We suggest the kitchen.
2. From now on, you will feed and water the dog in the crate. In this way the dog will learn to feel comfortable in the crate and will think of it as "HIS" place. Whenever you put him in the crate, command "CRATE" and always give him a biscuit or treat when he goes into the crate.
3. You cannot leave an 8-10 week old pup in the crate for more than 3-4 hours at a time as he will have to relieve himself. However, an older dog can be trained to stay in the crate all day or all night as long as the dog gets enough exercise and attention when you are at home. Give the dog toys or chew sticks to keep him occupied while he is in the crate.
4. NEVER put the dog in the crate as punishment, it is his den and he must feel comfortable in it.
5. When you first bring the crate home, don't lock the dog in it and go out for two hours - he must be introduced to it gradually. Once he is used to going in and out for food and treats, try shutting him in it - while you are home. Leave him in it for about 15 minutes. Ignore any whining or barking - if he becomes too unruly you may bang the bars of the crate while at the same time saying "QUIET" firmly, then leave again. When he is quiet, let him out and tell him what a good boy he is. When he can tolerate this, go out for about one half an hour. Upon returning, praise him and take him outside to relieve himself. Gradually increase the time you are out until you can leave him for the required length of time.
6. NEVER leave collars or leads on your dog while he is in his crate!!
7. Most dogs will not soil their crate. If you come home and find that your dog has soiled the crate DO NOT PUNISH HIM. Simply take him outside while the mess is cleaned up. If this continues to be a problem, remove the towel or blanket and leave the dog on the bare tray. This will discourage him from soiling the crate.
8. The crate should be available to the dog at all times as he will probably want to sleep there. If you want the dog to sleep in your room, bring the crate with you. This way, he will not soil or destroy your room. Some dogs prefer the crate to be covered with a blanket - it makes it more like a den.
The crate can also be used for traveling as it will protect the dog from hurting himself and it will keep him from distracting you while you are driving.
You may also want to use it to take him visiting more often.
YOU AND YOUR DOG WILL BOTH BE HAPPIER WHEN HE IS PROPERLY CRATE TRAINED. HE WILL NOT DESTROY THINGS, HURT HIMSELF, OR SOIL THE HOUSE. THUS, YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO PUNISH HIM CONSTANTLY.
BE KIND TO YOURSELF AND TO YOUR DOG:
CRATE TRAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
