AGNES THE RED ART and CRAFT TUTORIALS

UK artist AJLee

Tools and Tips etc

Useful little bits of info I've come across that may also prove helpful to you too, plus a quick look at the basic tools of my trade!

SAFETY COMES FIRST! 

Art, crafting techniques and working with various tools and materials can have its hazards......ok, so I'm not wanting to scare you, insist you wrap yourselves in cotton wool or don full body armour everytime you so much as look at a pair of scissors....but silly accidents CAN and DO happen. I'm not wanting to lecture anyone here either, but as I have tutorials available to the world to see, and show techniques using potentially dangerous tools and things, I feel I have a responsibility to provide a section on safety. Once you've read this, it's then up to you to carry out your own precautions and by taking a moment to step back and assess your crafting environment and its hazards......you'll spend more time participating in a fun, relaxing moment of creation.....and less time out of action while healing from craft induced injuries that could have been so easily avoidable.

Having worked in the jewellery trade I've seen some nasty accidents and having a partner who works for The Health and Safety Executive, I've heard of even more horrific accidents. Yes, ok, these involve places and tools/machinery that are on a much larger scale than most artists or crafters will come across. BUT we too use tools and materials that can injure or cause harm......and as many of us actually work alone in our homes and are not protected or guarded by government/workplace organisations (such as the HSE), we are often unaware or are not properly informed of the potential of hazards......and even when we are aware, in those mad dashes of inspiration, as we rush to create a piece, or in our eagerness to try out new crafts and techniques, we often drop our guards and open ourselves up to hurting ourselves (and yes, I will put my hand up to this.....I've gone barefoot into my studio only to embed a stray dropped brad into my heel which later became infected and I now have a lovely scar, I've picked up a hot soldering iron that I thought I'd turned off...only it wasn't so my fingers got burnt, I've only just avoided a serious burn with molten UTEE and eye damage by a piece of cut wire that flicked into my face!).........

Accident prevention doesn't have to be a hugely expensive or gadget strewn affair. Most accidents can be avoided by simple means, and above all, COMMON SENSE - if you have long hair, tie it back when using rotary/electrical tools. If you're using liquids, such as paints and glues, wear old clothes or aprons (not an actual health risk, but you don't want to spill stuff down and ruin your sunday best!), Electrical tools should be turned off when not used and if involve heat, placed in a safe spot to cool before handling, All sharp edged tools should never be left lying on the floor in case someone should tread on them, and should be placed on your worksurface in view (a designated spot if possible) so that you know where they are at all times and don't get a nasty surprize when you slice open your finger on a craft knife whilst searching through piles of paper thrown on top of it! Children and pets can also be a problem if they are allowed near your work area, make sure all dangerous tools etc are kept well out of reach. Children are no fools and know your having fun...so they will want to join in too....just not quite in the way you want! That jam jar of brush cleaner looks like pop! those brads and eyelets look like sweets....and by my own experiences, dogs like joining in by chewing on and eating everything in sight too......and cats? cats can = chaos!....it's no fun having one trying to jump on your lap just as your soldering around the edges of an altered domino! Keep pets out, and if you want to involve your kids in your art....then sensible supervision at all times will make the experience for all a happy one.

Read all instructions on how to use and operate newly aquired tools. If you're using glues/paints and inks etc, take a moment to read their instructions too - if it's hazardous, by law it will inform you, and how to use it ie toxic fumes created if mixed with other substances, whether you need to work in a well ventilated area, avoid contact with skin, and so on. If you're in ANY doubt about the safety of a material ingredient or tool - then it's very easy to contact the manufacturer or use an internet search engine to find out the information you require. The British agency HSE has a very useful website with various information and links to health and safety in the workplace that can also apply to the crafter or artist at home. Their website is - http://www.hse.gov.uk/

As an altered artist, and one that also works in wide range of arts and crafts, I use quite a few different tools and materials so the risks of injury are probably higher than say someone who just makes simple cards. Not everything I use will apply to everyone, and the following are the safety items I have purchased for specific uses, therefore NOT used all the time. However, I hope you find them of interest, and have a little more knowledge and preparation of the safety precautions, should you ever decide to try out other crafts too.

SAFETY COMES FIRST - I LOOK A DORK IN THESE, BUT.........

          

The above photos show SAFETY GOGGLES - I use these when using/cutting metals wires and woods etc to prevent stray particles and splinters flying up and going into my eyes. Cheaper standard goggles can be purchased from general DIY shops which are flexible rubber and have elastic that goes around the back of the head to keep them in place, but I find this particular design more suitable to me. They are 'glasses' shaped with ear pieces that are adjustable to fit my face more securely and have a higher spec plastic lens that is very clear with better vision. They are also easier and quicker to remove. I do advise that should you need safety goggles, as they really are (or should be) a one off purchase, that should last a lifetime, then buy the best you can afford and the most comfortable ones that fit your face properly (uncomfortable ones mean you're less inclined to use them, therefore defeating the object of eye protection). The next two photos are of a DUST MASK - I use these when sanding paint off metals, wood etc (and mass drilling of plastic dominoes!) basically anything that creates irritating dust or toxic fumes. These are the very basic ones that HSE will advise that anyone uses for simple DIY tasks - the cheaper versions available in cheap diy shops (single layer of cardlike material) really are of no use. My masks have comfortable adjustable elastic straps, a flexible wire nose piece (when you fit them to your face you press the wire to shape and fit closely over the bridge of the nose) and an inner section of foam that creates a snug seal around the nose and mouth. Technically, the above mask is a single use only, but even I only do a light amount of sanding and with a gentle wipe of the foam to keep clean, they can be good for a few extra uses.

GLOVES - I like to get messy in my artwork! But I don't like cleaning the mess off my hands afterwards....it's simply just too much hassle! I use many different mediums from paints to inks, glues and dyes. Some are permanent and difficult to clean off skin.....some cause me allergic reactions so on occasions, so I use thin close fit latex gloves to protect my hands (I'm allergic to a number of materials but thankfully not latex!). Gloves also protect my hands during crafts such as wet felting, dying fabrics, and using corrosive substances (etching solutions etc). I do however find household washingup gloves more durable when my hands are submerged in water for longer periods. The second photo shows my heat resistant mats that I use when soldering. The material mat is non asbestos material that protects my worksurface from drips of solder and is resistant to 600 oC, and I use it to rest the soldering iron and heat gun on after use too. I also find this mat useful when cutting wire - short pieces have a habit of flicking off into all directions so I stick the loose end of the wire into the weave and it stops it moving. The block is what I place my items to be soldered, directly onto. It's an asbestos substitute material with high heat/flame resistancy and can be easily cut with a handsaw so you can also use them to build up 'walls' that protect the surrounding areas from heat - particularly useful when soldering/melting etc with a naked flame/soldering torch. The final photo shows EARPLUGS - not a necessity for most artists and crafters, but I suffer with ear problems. I have partial deafness and bad tinnitus due to a severe bout of childhood mumps, also not helped by many years of listening to very loud music, concerts and playing in an orchestra....so when I'm hammering metals and using power tools that are noisy, I find it painful to my ears. These plugs are a soft squishy foam that roll up for insertion into the ear and then expand to snuggly fit. They are not total noise blockers, but help reduce the discomfort.

Other items not pictured - FIRST AID KIT - every household should have some sort of basic first aid kit, plasters, eye wash etc for minor cuts and bruises and so on. FIREBLANKET and household mini FIRE EXTINGUISHER (general paper fires etc) - I believe these are a must when working with naked flames, as I do often.....your house insurance may actually be compromised if a fire is caused by you knowingly using a tool that is a fire hazard and you do not have these.

TOOLS

As a keen DIYer, crafter, and having formal training in the jewellery trade, I've amassed and used many tools over the years. Some are expensive and designed specifically for one purpose, some I've found useful for various things. I very rarely buy brand new and expensive tools (just a couple of exceptions for specialist tools)and will often find and buy tools on market stalls, pound shops (thrift shops), carboots and second hand that are just as good and have multiple uses.

I work in many crafts and use many techniques....therefore have numerous tools that a general crafter possibly doesn't need, but I've listed them here as they are MY staples and just might be of interest to you. I used to work in the jewellery trade and had access to many tools and machinery in workshops for use with precious metals and gems, but I do not work in that area now, nor do I have the funding, space or time to do it, so to some jewellers, my tool kit is quite basic, but it's all I need for the type of art I do nowadays.

Bench Pegs, Clamps and anvils

                                     

This is my jewellers bench peg and is attached to my table worktop and in constant use. The pegs are shaped plain wood with one flat horzontal side, and one angled. It slots into a heavy metal clamp - mine has a flat anvil top which I use for hammering small pieces of wire and metals etc. In the first photo you can see two pegs, these are new, I usually cut out and make my own flat ones, but have found a very cheap supplier of ready made pegs. One I keep whole, the other I cut out a V shape using a junior hacksaw which is handy when drilling or sawing small pieces (see centre photo). The third photo shows a peg set in with angled side uppermost....

                          

...and the above photo shows you the peg turned over with the flat horzontal side uppermost. The V cut peg also has this option and is the peg I tend to favour most. The middle photo shows you my heavy duty metal bench vice that is always fixed to the table next to the bench peg as they tend to be in use at the same time. This is purely used for holding items to be drilled into, filed etc. I have glued strips of leather inside the clamp to give a better grip and prevent marks on any metal pieces. Next to the vice is a mini jewellers anvil with flat base, rouns and flat sided horns. It's just like the sort of anvil you'd see at a blacksmiths but a tiny 13cm in length! I use this mainly for hammering wire, it's polished steel and can take a fair amount of pounding and despite being a number of years old, still shines like new - I store this in an oiled bag to prevent rust and tarnishing. The last photo is a small collection of general diy clamps that have many uses from holding wood for glueing to securing pages of altered books. This is just a selection of metal ones, I have many sizes to suit various jobs, including mini plastic clamps and bulldog clips for lighterweight work.

The Bench pegs and mini anvil are specialist jewellers tools purchased from specialist suppliers. They're an investment and worth buying only if you know your going to use them alot, but the other vices and clamps have been picked up at markets and carboot sales for just a couple of pounds.

Drills and bits

                          

Many jewellers and hobbyists use a pendant drill (usually a small pencil shaped machine with a long flexible cord), mine is just a small craft drill with a keyless chuck - it has worked well for me for many years, has been put through a lot of work, but is still going strong and can take a wide variety of sized drill bits. It isn't just used for drilling! The middle photo shows a small selection of burs and cutting/engraving and sanding bits that it also takes. I literally have thousands of drill bits....mainly because I'm always loosing them and having to replace them, but tend to buy cheap sets and collections rather than single bits which can work out expensive. Drill bits can easily break if not used correctly and sometimes a more specialist bit is required, such as diamond coated ones which are super duper tough, for drilling stone and hard metals etc......and the last photo shows extra fine drill bits to drill teeny weeny holes. These are VERY fragile and I don't tend to use them often, and certainly NOT in my electric drill which is too powerful. A gental hand is required when using such delicate drill bits, so a drill with a variable speed control is a good idea......or best fitted into a hand driven Bow Drill.....

                                   

.....and this is my Bow Drill....given to me as a present when I left my first jewellery job. I was the only one there who mastered how to use it It's not THAT difficult to use once you understand the mechanics and principle of the tool.....but saying that, I often have off days and just can't get the flow or rythym going to power it. It's hand driven and you wind the string up around the metal shaft, bringing the wooden handle to the top. Placing your hand on the handle, you slowly push and allow it to travel back down the shaft (the shaft turns and thus drives the drill bit) and when it reaches the bottom it rewinds back up on itself and then twists the drill bit in the opposite direction. This is not a tool for those lacking in patience! Time, a light gentle hand and good coordination and rythym is required to maintain the rotations and lots of practice needed to build up to a good speed. (oh, and it looks nice and shiny and new because it's just had an overhaul, polish, sanding of handle and new string which is actually a shoelace!). The second photo is my rechargable mini screwdriver. I love this tool and is for DIY jobs aswell as my art. Has a great soft grip handle which twists into two positions, has variable speed, reverse action, a converter for using drill bits (but isn't really that powrrful enough and only useful for soft woods and plastics) and a cute built in lamp which is set underneath the body of the driver and shines direct onto the area you're screwing into - useful for those pesky little dark nooks and crannies! The chuck is magnetic and takes various screw heads. Comes in handy for stripping down found objects for altering and assemblage work. Next to the driver is a mini ratchet hand screwdriver, comes in use when even the mini driver is too big!

My DIY tool collection also includes a big heavy duty variable speed drill and screwdriver set that sometimes is called upon for largescale artwork, assembling canvas frames etc. I also have a large jigsaw cutter, router and sanders (detailed and sheet) which SOMETIMES come in handy too!

More tools to come later!..........

Saws and cutting tools

UTEE - always work on a silicon non stick craft mat to catch drips

             

Spatula gunged up with UTEE - leave it to set,                     Spilt UTEE on a silicon mould will peel off too                Waste not a drop! UTEE is expensive, so

    peel off and put back in the melting pot.                                                                                                     put all those little bits back in when set and

                                                                                                                                                                              you can remelt and reuse.

 Cleaning your Melting Pot and storing unused UTEE

 

       If your MP is fairly new, the teflon non stick coating will still be fairly strong and any unused UTEE can be left in the pot to

       cool, and you can then peel it out in one piece to store and remelt another time. With time this technique becomes less

       effective and residue becomes stuck in the pot. When this happens, you're best to start pouring out excess UTEE onto a

       non stick craft mat, leave to cool and set on this, then store it for another day.

       It vitally important to keep your MP pot clean and residue free - to prevent cross contamination of colours, but also for

       when using a project pan. Residue/particles trapped between the pot and project pan will burn and/or cause all manner

       of problems. Pour out all unused UTEE as above and use kitchen towels while pot is still hot, to wipe out residue.