AGNES THE RED ART and CRAFT TUTORIALS

WHAT ARE SHRINES? and WHY CREATE THEM? - I suppose traditionally, shrines are religious or spiritual monuments, that honor the dead. They would be various sizes, made of many materials and filled and decorated with items symbolizing, representing and/or belonging to the deceased. They have been created across the cultures for many thousands of years - the large and most notable ancient ones today being the Egyptian pyramids, Taj Mahal, etc...even the Giant Golden Buddhas of the far east. Secular shrines can also be found - such as the war dead memorials and statues, even the carvings of Mount Rushmore, and they can also be serious in offering places for solitude and reflection....on the other hand they can be celebratory and whimsical - such as those created for the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico which are lovely examples of how shrines are created, managed and used to celebrate lives that have passed.

Shrines offer opportunities for their creators to reflect on people and even pets that have passed from their lives. Creating a shrine can be cathartic and allow grievers the experience of remembering the best about the people or pets no longer alive.  It provides and establishes a permanent place or object with which to return to remember a friend, relative, or pet.

Shrines are now very popular with altered artists and some have moved away from the original 'use' and make them more of an 'objet d'art' project, many stick religiously to their meaning. You will find in this particular craft, shrines are made on a smaller scale than those mentioned above, compsing of small boxes, cupboards, even books....and a popular item being a matchbox - a perfect little box to contain all manner of items to reflect over, and small enough to carry in a pocket or hand bag where ever you go.

One of the most devestating things to happen to me when I became disabled, was having to give up horseriding - something I've done since a child. I have a life long love of horses and now my contact with the equestrian world is through my artwork for which I've been commisioned for a number of watercolour portraits of other peoples horses. So I decided to create a matchbox shrine to hold pictures of some of the horses and ponies that have played an important part in my life.

In a way I suppose it can be seen as my way of grieving for a part of my life that is now gone - the horses themselves are not deceased, but a particlar hobby and part of my life that I can no longer participate in. I wish to retain and celebrate those memories in something small, so a matchbox is ideal.

TOOLS REQUIRED - matchbox, scissors and craft knives, various papers and card, adirondak/ranger colour washes and distress inks, stazon inks, alcohol inks, black permanent marker pens, horse stamps, See Ds stamp remnants, acrylic stamping blocks, Aluminium Duct Tape (self adhesive metal repair tape) bone folder/creaser, coarse bristled artist paint brushes, glue and double sided tape, black cotton, silver craft wire, pliers and cutters, brown and beige cotton sewing thread and needle, glossy photo copy paper plus horse photos, thin black satin ribbon, metal buckle, silver craft wire and embellishments. 

Rather than the usual small objects and items found inside a matchbox shrine, my shrine was to contain a fold out strip of paper which would be the photo album. Each concertinered segment would contain an image or photo so I cut my chosen paper to mm by mm which would then be folded into six segments to fit inside the mm by mm matchbox I was using. You would obviously have to measure and cut out paper according to the size matchbox you are using. The paper I choose to use was a natural fibre handmade piece that has a semi rough surface that I thought would absorb and take the distressing/ink technique well, but strong enough not to dissolve or go too soggy and tear.

      1. Some of the tools required.             2. Cut out piece of paper to size              3. scrunch up well, taking care not             4. Lay out flat on a craft mat

                                                                and concertina  fold/crease.                            to rip the paper.                                   ready for inking up.

  5. Gently wipe over distress ink pad              6. Do this to both sides.....                7. ...then quickly iron to set the ink           8. Taking your first chosen colour

  so that the creases pick up colour.                                                                           and flatten the paper.                        lightly spray/mist over the paper

                                                                                                                                                                                     with colour wash and re-iron.

I have a dedicated mini ironing board which was originally sold for ironing shirt sleeves but is perfect for working small craft projects. The iron is just a small travel iron, again dedicated for craft use as it can get quite dirty with the inks. I use it on medium heat setting with no water/steam fuction. To iron the inked up work, lay on a piece of paper (I use cheap photocopier paper) ontop of the ironing board. You can also place a piece of clean paper over the work, but I prefer to iron direct so I can see how the ink is being affected and as long as you dont use too high a heat setting, and keep the iron moving, the paper will not scorch or leave 'iron plate' marks.

 9. Build up layers of different colours         10. Reaffirm the concertina folds.           11. Using a dry brush and distress ink         12. The completed 'aged' paper.

   ironing between each application -                                                                    work the colour around the edges.

 you can also mist over with clear water                                                                   Remember to do both sides.

      to soften the ink colours.

     13. The chosen stamp images.          14. Mask out the acrobat and ink up         15. Stamp the images on alternate          16. Close up of one stamped image

                                                          the horse section only with stazon ink.       segments - photos will go on others.                   on the 'album'

At this point I felt the album needed something more but I had no other equestrian stamp images that would fit the pages. I thought it would look nice having some horse hooves/shoe prints running through the pages but again, had no appropriate stamps and I didn't feel confident enough to draw them on free hand as I wanted clean uniform images. The only way to get this was to make my own tiny stamp. The following photos show you how this was achieved. You will need the remnants from a sheet of See D's unmounted stamps, a fine tip marker and craft knife or small sharp scissors.

    17. See D's stamp sheet remnant.          18. Draw on then cut out desired          19. Place on acrylic stamp block, ink         20. The 'album' now stamped with

    (try to use one with large pieces)              image on one of the sections.              up and test stamp on scrap paper.               with the tiny hoof/shoes

The next step is to create and attach photos. The images I wanted to use were taken on a 35mm SLR camera so they needed to be scanned, then cropped, resized and finally to tie in with the colour and 'aged/distressed' look of the shrine they were recoloured to sepia tones. I cut them out with white borders to recreate an old photo style and originally decided to cut them using jagged blades like some of the old vintage photos, but it looked too fussy so I kept the edges straight and neat.

          21. The photos selected for scanning.                          22. Resized, cropped and recoloured.                            23. Cut out and ready to be 'aged'

   24. Age the mini photos using inks...               25. and ink up the edges too.                 26. Adhere to the paper strip album.               27. Add ADT tabs.

 28. Now the matchbox - black ink up       29. Open out and black ink the inner      30. Ink up the exterior edges of the       31. Tear along the edges of the ADT

         the exterior of the box.                 sides of the sleeve, then reassemble.     sleeve and cut a strip of ADT to cover.             for a worn/distressed look.

    32. Peel and wrap the sleeve with         33. Burnish flat, paying attention to        34. Start distrssing by scratching up        35. Apply further inks (green and rust)

                the ADT strip.                                  the edges and corners.                   then applying black stazon ink.             to reach the desired tarnished effect.

TARNISHING METAL WITH STAZON INKS - This is a technique I use a lot in my artwork, and is used here on the ADT. I use Black, Olive green and Rusty Brown. Other tones could be used but I happen to think these give a nice warm tarnished finish and co-ordinate well with my alcohol, distress inks and adirondak colour washes. You also need some coarse bristled artist brushes (dedicated purely for using with each seperate colour as they cannot be cleaned) and a soft cloth - I use a dried up baby wipe that previously was used for cleaning stamps. First, pick up black ink with the cloth and wipe over the distressed and scratched metal - this tones down the shine and creates a nice gun metal colour. Work ink into the scratches and marks and it will pick out and highlight them further. Now the important bit - LEAVE IT TO DRY OVERNIGHT - yes Stazon is supposed to be permanent and quick drying, but if you apply another colour of stazon on straight away, it will actually lift off and remove the black ink. The next step is to use a brush to pick up some of the second colour and start dabbing over the surface in random areas - I like to concentrate around edges and areas that will accentuate images/embellishments, dont overwork it or it will just smudge - you want a stippled effect. Once dried you repeat with the third colour, stippling with a brush until you achieve your desired look.

The base of my Matchbox was now done and the next stage was to create and apply embellishments. Amongst my box of 'bit and pieces' I found a nice sized buckle and thought it'd be nice to somehow use this to echoe the leather straps of saddlery, like a piece of bridle. I couldn't find any leather that was appropriate, so decided to create a strap with some paper. I used a strip of 'pre distressed look' brown paper and added further tones for a leather effect with inks. The buckle was a blueish metallic colour that didn't match any of the matchbox work, so I just 'resilvered it using silver alcohol ink and then tanished it slightly with stazon inks.

 36. Ink up the buckle in silver and work      37. Mark and prick holes out evenly        38. Using double beige thread start          39. Then work back through the

    brown distress inks over the strap.            using a ruler and pricking tool.                    sewing a running stitch.               alternate spaces to create saddle stitch.

      40. The completed stitched strap.        41. Make or buy a brown tassle and         42. Attach tassle with other fibres          43. Add photo and more stamp

                                                              cut shape the end like a horses tail.            and embellishments to drawer.          images to sleeve front, then thread

                                                                                                                                                                               buckle onto strap and wrap around

                                                                                                                                                                                 the complete matchbox sleeve.

                                 44. Fold up album and glue into the drawer.                                     45. The completed matchbox shine.

                                 46. The open matchbox shrine showing the unfolded album - you can flip it over to view photos on both sides.

I quite pleased with how this shrine worked out but keep looking at the front of the box and feeling that it needs a little 'something else' added to it. But, much as I've searched through all my bits, embellishments etc, I can't find anything that grabs my attention - I will keep on looking and when that certain something appears, I'll add it and pop the final photo here.

It's been a nice little journey for me and brought back some happy memories.

This tutorial shows you how to create a window/apperture or box frame for your shrine, using an empty matchbox. The examples shown below have been placed on ATC sized card but the basic principle can be incorporated into any sized art project, using any sized matchbox. There are a number of options to how you can 'use' the matchbox and window - such as a sealed, glued piece, or as a sliding moveable drawer so that the objects placed within the box can be removed, and you can also seal the window...such as attaching a clear plastic panel, or leave the apperture open so that the shrine area within can be accessed via it....even fit a door or flap......there are many choices and variations and so the examples below have been kept plain and unadorned so that you can easily see their basic structures. Although I have specified a shrine....this window/boxframe can be adjusted to fit any artwork.....any size.....and shape.

BASIC TOOLS and MATERIALS REQUIRED:

Card stock, empty matchbox, scissors and/or craftknife, ruler & pen for measuring and marking out, glue and tape, thin clear plastic (optional).

Once constructed you will also need papers, inks and embellishments etc of your choice to decorate the shrine.

If you do not have a matchbox to hand....you can make your own using the following template - CLICK HERE

    1. Gather together the tools and materials that           2. Using the inner drawer section of the matchbox             3. Use a craft knife to cleanly cut out the

you need and remove the drawerfrom the matchbox.     mark out a rectangle slightly smaller than the drawer.                rectangle to form the apperture. 

    4. If you only cut three sides, you can create a                 5. Or you can just completely cut it away.           6. Adhere the matchbox drawer section face down

                      a flap....or a door....                                                                                                                             over the apperture.     

    7. turn over to reveal your boxframe/window                  8. You can place the apperture anywhere.                   9. You can use it portrait...or landscape....

                    10. ....on any shape...even cut a shaped apperture!                                            11. You can make multiples...the choice is yours!

NOTE - If you are making a sealed shrine....you will need to decorate the inside of the drawer, add clear acetete (optional) and add contents BEFORE the drawer is adhered to the card....ie before proceeding onto part 6 of the tutorial. If the apperture is to remain open, you can adhere the drawer and decorate the whole piece in one go....placing your shrine objects/embellishments into the box via the apperture. An alternative, is to create a removable drawer section. The following shows how -

          1. Cut out your apperture as above.                    2. Place the drawer section face down over the            3. Take the matchboxe sleeve and cut up the

                                                                                    apperture BUT DO NOT GLUE IN PLACE.                        middle of one of the large panels.

  4. Open out, turn over  and trim the edges which           5. Place over the drawer section, wrapping the                  6. The drawer is now free to move.

         will be the flaps to adhere to the card.                 sides and adhere the flaps to the back of the card 

                                                                                           NOT THE DRAWER SECTION !     

NOTE - If you are creating a shrine wall hanging and the removable drawer is to hold a number of, or heavy items, you will need to seal the base of the drawer sleeve section to prevent the drawer dropping out onto the floor.....                                             

   7. Use a piece of card cut to size to cover up and        8. The drawer is still free to be removed out of the         9. Add a small loop, brad etc of your choice to

      seal the end....adhere to the sleeve edges                                          top.                                                  enable you to pull out the shrine drawer.

        DO NOT GLUE TO THE DRAWER !

       Your window/boxframe shrine is now ready to decorate and embellish to your design....have fun!

Here are a couple of examples I have made.....for full details of how I created 'Home is where the heART is' click HERE.

          'The House of Geisha' - Sealed shrine with clear acetate window                     'Home is where the heART is' - Semi sealed assemblage/shrine

                         and a hanging geisha charm inside.                                                                   with a open apperture/window.