Science

Trim one end off each elevator just enough to cut through the Aluminum tube inside. Place both elevators together and cut the other end off the same length till the tube is exposed. Bolt the bushings on the aileron torque tubes. Place the bushings in the aluminum tubes of the inner edge of the elevators.  Find The center of the canard between the mounting brackets.   Place the elevator torque tubes on the centerline. Using a square mark a line across each end of the canard at this point the tip of the elevator reaches.  From the center line on the canard mark the locations for the elevator hinge arms, 4 on each side.  Place the elevators behind the canard and line up. Transfer the marks on your canard to your elevators. Separate the 8 elevator hinges in to two groups left and right.  

There are both right and left elevator hinges.   The Vertical tab portion of the hinge always is on the inboard side.  On the bottom surface of  the elevators, place  hinges so that the vertical tabs (holding the bushings) are aligned with the positioning marks. The outside surface of the vertical tab should be flush with the marks. The hinges should be self-aligning with respect to each other, but sight down through the bushings to be sure. If a hinge is out of alignment by more than 1/16", shift it to be in line. You can clamp a strand of fishing line at one end, and run the other through the bushings to really center things up. Use a 1/8" bit to drill a hole in the torque tube, using the forward pilot hole in each hinge as a guide. Sand the mating surfaces, both hinge and elevator, bed the hinge in  Structural Adhesive, and pop rivet into place. Align the hinges fore and aft square with the elevator trailing edge, then drill and pop rivet the aft hole. Carefully clean off the excess Structural Adhesive, and let cure. Drill a 3/16" hole in each hinge (countersink 100 degrees) as far aft of the forward pop rivet as possible without going into the elevator foam.

Attach a 1/4” wrench to a meter stick with duct tape.  Place the wrench in the torque tube and slide it through till you can see the wrench though the driiled hole and amrk the meter stick. This will give you a frame of reference to possition the nut. place a nut in the closed end of the wrench and slide it in place till you see the center of the nut. Screw the 10/32" machine screw in place. Remove the wrech by sliding a second meter stick in on top of it till it pops off the nut.

Hinge Arm Installation

Once the Structural Adhesive has cured, install the arms to the elevator-mounted hinges. Attach to the side of the hinge where the bushing protrudes.  If a misalignment occurs, you can bend the hinge slightly to make it perpendicular to the elevator.

Turn the canard upside down and locate the elevators in the trailing edge slot. Tape tongue depressors as shims along the trailing edge of the canard to create a gap of about .050” from the top of the elevator to the canard. You want to make sure that both elevators are in the same position. Clamp a straight edge across the top of the elevators to hold them in the same position.  Rotate the hinge arms to locate the slots . Mark the locations approximately 5/16" x 1-1/4”. Drill the top and bottom of the slots with a 5/16" bit. Cut the slots with a hacksaw blade and remove the foam in the slot all the way to the top and back of the canard. Duct tape around the slot to keep excess adhesive off. Glass in the arms after sanding the base using structural adhesive, flox and cabosile. Fill the slots with structural adhesive. Lower the arms in place. Level the arms with a meter stick on top to keep them inline. Clean off excess adhesive. Let cure.  

Elevator Counter Weights

Separate the counter weights left and right, torque tube and elevator tip. Attach the weights to the proper weight arm with 32/10" screws and lock nuts. Attach the bushings to the weight arms. Assemble the elevators on the canard. Turn the canard upsidedown. Cut the elevator and canard tip off flush and square to eachother. Put the bushings into the elevator tube. Turn the weight arm till the weight touches the canard.

Trace around the weight onto the bottom of the canard. Cut on the line through the bottom canard skin only. Remove the foam to the inside of the upper canard skin.  Sand the area with 40 grit paper. Glass this area with a layer of micro-balloons and two bid fiberglass cloth. Let cure. Reinstall the weights and check for clearance as you trun the weigh up and down. Attach the elevators together with a straight edge so they are inline with eachother. Now check for clearance with a degree finder. Down elevator should be 28 degrees. At this piont the weight should just touch the top of the inside of the finished cut out area. Mark from the elevator to the weight arm across the center of the elevator tube. Drill a hole through this line 3/8" inside the the elevator edge through the bushing and out the top side of the elevator with a 5/32" bit and ream to 3/16".   Repeat on the other elevator.  Elevator up should be 26 degrees.

Center Hinge

Mark the same 5/16"x1 1/2" on the center line of the canard lined up with the rest of the hinge arms. Drill the top and bottom and remove the foam as with the other hinge arms. Duct tape around the slot. Fill the slot with structural adhesive and place the center hinge in the slot. From the two inner hinges run kite string across the top and the bottom several times and sinch it up tight to hold the center hinge in line horizontaly. Place the line through the center of the mounted hinge bushings and through the bushing of the center hinge several times and tighten up. Lay a square against the side of the center hinge to keep it perpindicular to the string.  Let cure and bolt on the canard center hinge oilite bushings.

 Bushings

Attach the elevators to the canard. Install the torque tubes to the oiltite bushings. Mark the elevator at the end of the torque tube.  After you have marked the elevators remove them from the canard and cut them off square on the line. Install the alluminum bushings on the ends of the torque tubes and slide them into the elevators and reinstall them. Install the other end of the torque tube into your center hinge arm. Reinstall the screws in your other hinge arms and check for binding when moving the elevator. If there is binding you may have to trim the elevator torque tube more. Now you can install the concentric torque tube permanently.

Torque Tube

Clamp a strait edge across the inside edges of the elevators to keep the inline. Support the elevators to a level position with a strait edge on each elevator.  Place 2 long bolts through the holes in the torque tube arms to keep the torque tube lined up.  Mark a center line down the outside tab of your concentric torque tube.   Drill a small 3/32 hole through the elevator torque tube into the aluminum bushing about 1/2”. Install a 3/32” rivet. Check for clearance and binding and when satified drill a 3/16" hole through the elevator and the bushing. Place a piece of metal like a gasket scraper between the elevater and the canard so the drill bit does not hit the canard when it comes through the elevator.  Counter sink the upper hole and install a 3/32" machine screw and lock nut.

Check to make sure the end of the elevator and canard are lined up and square. Mark and trim them off as needed. Install the canard and elevator with elevator pointing down. Seal the end of the elevator. Apply a layer of micro balloon and cover with 1 bid fiberglass. Measure from the edge of the torque to the aft edge of the elevator. Using a square on the inner edge of the torque tube mark where the innere edge of the squre touches the fuselage. Measue that distance and mark it on the inside edge of the elevator from the edge of the torque tube. Lay the square against the the side of the fuselage and the front of the elevator. Measure the distance from the edge of the torque tube to the inside edge of the square. Mark this distance from the aft tip of the inside edge of the elevator outward. This is  where the edge of the elevator needs to be trimmed.