Science

Yoke Controls

I installed yoke controls in this plane to allow the copilot or passenger a chance to get the feel of flying a convetional aircraft.

Check the control rods to make sure the screws are tight and it works freely. Holes were cut in the pannel previous for the installation of the instruments. Place the control rod through the mounting hole and mark the location of the mounting screws from the back. Drill the 3/16" holes making sure they are level. Install the canard and elevators. Attach the control rod with mounting screws. Attach the elevator control bracket to the control rod. Place the torque tube brackets against the torque tube. Pull control rod to full up possition.

Place elevator at 28 degrees down from level. Tape the bracket to the torque tube. Now rotate the elevator to 26 degrees up to make sure that the controls will move full range. Return the elevater to 28 degrees down which is up. Drill a hole through the elevator bracket and the torque tube. Ream to 3/16" and attach with a bolt. Repeat for other elevator and torque tube. 

Attach the right and left push rods to the bellcranks with proper washers and bolts. The short rod is on the pilots side. The long rod is on the co-pilots side. Place the rudder bellcrank bracket against the pilot side console. A tab at the bottom will adjust the height. Adjust it till the rudder bellcrank lines up with the control pushrods. Drill holes throught the bracket and the console. Break the tab off the bottom of the bracket and bolt in place.  Attach the pushrods to the bellcrank.    

The aileron cables start at an angle in line with and just below the rudder cable bellcrank on the inside of the co-pilot sde of the console. drill a 1/2" hole through each side of the console against the floor just behind the front seat bolt hole. Drill a 1/2" hole though the pilot side bulkhead and firewall as outlined in the manual. Drill a 1/2" hole through the bulkhead and firewall on the co-pilot side as indicated. Run the cables through the console and the routing holes.

Attach the aileron cables to the aileron bellcrank. Attach the cables to the inside of the console on the co-pilot side with the mounting bracket. The co-pilot cable must be angled from the hole to the top of the aileron bellcrank. Create two cable mounting brackets with aluminum angle. Screw the bracket to the firewall just under the cable. Mount the cables to the brackets with a clamp. Attach the end of the cable to the tie rod on the aileron bellcrank.

 Adjust the controls so that when the yoke is full right the right aileron is full up and the left is full down. Repeat for the left side. Place both ailerons in neutral possition. The yoke should be centered. If not adjust the control wheel to be centered by adjusting the pushrods. Check push rod height. When the yoke is full left and right the pushrod ends on the center aileron bellcrank should be just above the pushrod ends on the control rod.  Tighten all pushrods and tierods with a jam nut.

Aileron Torque Tube

Find the channel for the aileron torque tube. Place the torque tube in the pre-drilled hole at the outer aileron well. Slide the tube back and forth till it starts striking the wall on the inner wing skin. Have a person feel where the tube is striking and mark the location. Drill a 1.5" hole on the mark. Wrap a mop stick with sand paper and runn it back and forth through the channel to remove any foam that may rub or bind the movement of the torque tube.

Cut the long aileron torque tube in half. Place the torque tube sleeve half way inside the end of the tube attached to the aileron. Drill a 3/16" mounting hole fore and aft and bolt the sleeve in place.  Slide the long torque tube in place and drill and bolt fore and aft.  

Place the aileron torque tube brackets in the inner wing and line up with the torque tube hole using a chalk line. The bracket comes in two pieces. Mark the location of the pieces when in place. Cut and rivet the pieces together. Sand the paint off the aileron bellcrank tube. Slide the aileron torque tube in the channel and bolt the aileron in place.  Insert the end of the bellcrank into the torque tube and slip the bracket in place. You may need to shorten the torque tube so the bracket can slide in far enough so the bellcrank arm just misses the edge of the wing. This keeps the arm from hitting the engine. Drill 4 mounting holes through the bracket and wing flange and attach to wing with counter sunk screws.

Attach the push rods to the control arms. Adjust the angle of the arm with the rod ends till each is at a 90 degree angle when in the neutral possition. Also adjust the control arm to 60 degrees for left and 80 degrees for the left. Cut a 1" access hloe through the top of the wing flange and the bracket. Drill a 3/16" hole though the center of the torque tube and control arm rod. Bolt in place.  

Adjust the controls so that when the yoke is full right the right aileron is full up and the left is full down. Repeat for the left side. Place both ailerons in neutral possition. The yoke should be centered. If not adjust the control wheel to be centered by adjusting the pushrods. Check push rod height. When the yoke is full left and right the pushrod ends on the center aileron bellcrank should be just above the pushrod ends on the control rod.  Tighten all pushrods and tierods with a jam nut.

Rudder Return Spring

The rudder is spring loaded to allow it to return to the neutral possition. Mark the inside of the rudder well and the rudder 18" from the bottom. Drill a a hoole in the rudder well the size of the spring housing. Remove the foam back the length of the spring housing. Sand the outside of the spring housing. Duct Tape end of the spring housing to keep epoxy out when it is installed. Glass the spring inplace by filling the mounting hole with micr-glass. Coat the outside of the housing with micro-glass. Insert the spring housing in the hole and let cure.

Cut a slot 1" tall and 1/4" wide on the inside of the rudder 18" from the bottom. Use a hanger to remove foam back and around the inside of the hole. Sand the aluminum angle tab. Drill a hole in the center of the vertical tab. Galss the tab in place with micro-glass and let cure. Install the the spring to the tab on the rudder then mount the rudder.

Rudder Cables

Runn the rudder cable housing along the designated pathway and hold in place with 1 bid fiberglass. Runn the 1/16" cable through the housing. Create a mounting loop at the rudder pedal end of the cable and swedge in place. At the firewall mount the cable pulley. Pull the cable tight and mount the pulley so the there is no binding from the housing and the pulley and so that the cable is angled to the rudder housin in the wing. Mount the pulley and place the cotter pin in the mount to keep the cable from derailing.

Run a 1/16" cable through the rudder housing in the wing to the bottom of the winglet. creat a loop and swedge the collar in place. Attach the cablr to the rudder horn. Install the rudder to the winglet. Pull the cable tight from the housing on the inner side of the wing. Attach the tension adjuster to the cable coming out of the firewall. strech the cable from the wing to the second hole in the adjuster. Create a loop and swedge. Attach the cable to the other end of the adjuster. Create a return spring for the rudder cable. Mount an aluminum angle to the inner skin of the wing in line with the rudder cable from the firewall to the wing. Drill a hole and attach a return spring to the top of the adjuster and the aluminum mount. Check the rudder for proper deflection. The rudder should move 3.5" at full rudder and be at neutral when the pedal is not deployed.  

Rudder Pedals

Install the master cylinder push rod tubes with proper hardware. The open ends are ready to be bolted onto the rudder pedal arms. Line the rudder pedals up with the brake mounting bracket. Lift the rudder peddle tube 1" above the console. Mark the top of the mounting blocks. Draw a line across to each mark and level it. Make sure the pedals line up side to side with master cylinder push tubes.   Scott Baker at the factory said he thought it easier and stronger if I would just drill all the way through and bolt the mounting block in.  Drill the holes through the block and bulkhead with a 3/16"bit and bolt in place.

Attach the Brake mounting brackets to the rudder pedals. Adjust the breaks so that at 3/4 pedal the brakes engage. Attach the rudder cables to the rudder cable arm. Adjust the cable length. The pedal fully depressed should be 1/4 from the bulkhead.  Create a stop for the brake pedals on both sides of the fuselage with a piece of aluminum angle. Mount the stops to the fuselage with structural adhesive and rivets so that the rudder cable arm touches it when the rudder is in neutral possition.

Get some good looking pedal covers from an auto parts store. Place the covers on the pedal bar and adjust to the correct angle for your foot. Drill two mounting hole through the cover and bar. Bolt cover in place. Now the plane looks professional.

Brakes

Connect the brake lines to the left and right master cyllinders. Run the lines through the pilot side conduit and attach to the brake cylinders. Fill a castup bottle or an oil can with Dot 5 brake fluid. Attach a hose to the oil pump can or castup bottle.  Remove the master cylinder caps. Crack open the bleeding valve at the brake. Attach the hose of the oil pump can or catsup bottle to the bleeding valve. Force the brake fluid into the valve till it fills the master cylinder. Now there are no air bubbles in the brake lines so you do not need to bleed the brakes, theoredicaly.