Kawasaki Z2 - 750RS

Reference site for all Z2 enthusiasts

More Detail Images

The previous page shows the main differences between Z1 and Z2. There are however, many subtle changes that occured during the 1970's  which may trip up the dedicated restorer. These are mainly due to Kawasaki changing a part in a minor fashion but not changing their part number accordingly. This page therefore applies equally to Z1 as Z2 and is mainly of interest only to restoration junkies!

Some of these differences I think are well known, for example the 'seamless' headlight brackets, tank badge size, black seat foam, etc, etc so I haven't bothered to show these, but I'm sure there are many more slight differences out there which I am not aware of. If you know of any, please contact me.

 

OK, First picture shows correct type of battery band (also applys to the chain oil tank) for 1973-75. If you ordered this part today (92072-045) you would receive a part looking similar but without the 'bent' styled tab shown at the bottom of the picture. 

Above and left pictures show the correct 'Dunlop F6' tyre  on a 'Takasago' rim.  Most suppliers will now have to supply new equivalents as 'Dunlop F11' tyre on a 'D.I.D' rim.

It is virtually impossible to find new F6 tyres. Dunlop destroyed the mould and will only supply F11.

Takasago no longer trade independantly as they merged with 'Excel' in 1989 and their rims appear to have been phased out in the late 90's.

 

 

 

The above 3 pictures show very missable differences. The clock / console covers pan head fixing screws, swing arm 'T-Piece bolts and pillion footpeg mounting brackets should be black in colour (greeny black for footpeg). If you ordered these parts today from Kawasaki or obtained pattern equivalents you would receive zinc plated (silver coloured) parts. 

The key switch shown above should have a 'non-covered'  key hole (see "detail images 1" page to show incorrect style of switch), Also, the 4 handlebar mounting bolts should be 13mm A/F & not 12mm as supplied currently by Kawasaki or repro companies.

The second picture shows several things to look out for: - Switch block should look exactly as shown with 'red' Kill Switch markings and the 'PO' light switch option - Master cylinder should be style as shown. Master cylinder rubber boot should be 'ribbed' and not 'straight'. Also ensure throttle and LH grips are of the style shown (not Z900 style). Perhaps the most subtle of differences is for the throttle cable (081) - The adjusting barrel A/F should be 10mm (same as the locknut). OEM Kawasaki parts have been 8mm for several years) . Finally, the master cylinder clamp bolts should have '7' on the head. If ordered today from Kawasaki they will arrive to you with No '4'.

Finally the picture above right shows that the switchgear should be marked 'KAWASAKI' on the underside and that the clutch/brake levers must have a plastic coat (which tends to yellow) over the majority of the lever.